Friday, July 03, 2009

Butterick 4980

I made two versions of this jacket back in the spring of 2007. The brown eyelet one only gets worn with the dress that I made to go with it. But the little white one made as my "wearable muslin" saw a lot of wear last summer. So much so that I thought I really should make another one.

After the gelato colored linens arrived...thanks, JoanneM for a great description...I knew that I wanted several more of these little jackets. Now I know that to some this may sound extreme...five of the same jacket just in different colors...but I need a jacket most days at work. And since I commute on public transportation, I ALWAYS need a jacket to keep me from becoming a fudgsicle because the air conditioning is just too high on the bus!

The original little white one worked so wonderfully for me last was professional when it needed to be...casually cool over a pair of jeans with some heels...and business casual with my 4-gore skirt and a tank top. It was a wonderful piece so three more didn't seem too many when I was planning this wardrobe.

Actually, though there will only be two...the green linen one and a white silk/linen blend. I decided that the yellow one was a little too much color for me!

There aren't many changes from the original one...see this post for the construction details.

*However, I did add one inch to the hem of the garment, and 2.5 inches to the center front for these two jackets. I made this change to both the jacket front piece and the yoke front piece.

*I made a seam in the back yoke piece for added interest...when the original pattern calls for this piece to be cut on the fold.

*I also added an inch to the center back seam and the back yoke piece and for this version I added quite a bit of topstitching to it.

This jacket is unlined and as such it needed some interior finishing. For the green version, I thought it would be kewl to add a Hong Kong finish using bias binding strips cut from the coordinating dress fabric. All of the vertical seams were finished using the Hong Kong finishing technique. For the armhole seams I just folded the binding in half and sewed it down. And I used the flat bias binding as a hem facing on both the jacket hems as well as the sleeve hems.

I love how the interior of the jacket looks with this very colorful bias binding.

These two buttons were pulled from the collection since they coordinated beautifully with the both the jacket and dress fabric.

I only added two buttons to the top because I didn't want to take away from the original design. However, I did resolve the closing issue that I had with the first two jackets that are referenced in the original post.

Here are some shots of the white jacket's interior:

Yes, I made the bias binding for this jacket too using a roll of unfinished bias strips that I've had for several years.

And one of these buttons will grace the front of the jacket:

I also underlined all of the jacket pieces with a fine cotton batiste for this version because I thought the fabric needed a little oomph to it:

The white version still has some finishing to be done to it...hems, buttonholes & buttons added before it can go into the rotation! But it will be ready to wear for the new work week.

I'm really happy with both new versions of this jacket and highly recommend the pattern!

Today I'm off from work and will sew for a little while after watching the Little Prince so his Momma can do some errands. I really want to start work on the Butterick 5347 dress. I have the best yellow cotton/silk paisley print waiting for this dress which when finished will work sooooo well with both jackets!

As always...more later!


  1. Beautiful jacket, inside and out. I just love everything you've posted lately.

  2. I remembered your white jacket but forgot about the brown eyelet one. I wore my brown eyelet skirt the other day. I still love that fabric, so glad I bought it Metro Textiles as it has proven to be the better eyelet I have purchased since.

  3. Your green jacket is one you almost want to wear inside out!

  4. Carolyn...just LOVE that green !

    The inside of your jacket is a work of art!

  5. I think it's a great jacket and I understand why you would want to make lots of them!

  6. Ditto what Pam said--love the insides! Super gorgeous.

  7. I like the colorful bias inside the green one too :-)
    And I'm always bundled up in the train in the mornings. Why do they run the AC so high all summer??

  8. Beautiful inside and out!I love the buttons for the white jacket.

  9. Beautiful job, and I love those white buttons!

  10. Love the finishing. Beautifully fabricated.

  11. My grandmother used to show me the insides of clothing and tell me that it should look as good as the outside, and these do. I too love the white buttons.
    How big is your button stash? I have a very small button stash, because I never can make up my mind about how many to buy. Do you buy for a project or rely on stash buttons? If stash, how do you decide how many to buy?

  12. Love that green, and the seam finish is wonderful. I look forward to seeing the completed set. The buttons you have for the white are great!

  13. Two great kicky little jackets! I love these.

  14. I love the green jacket! And the inside is fabulous. I always get a secret lift and thrill when the inside is as pretty as the outside, like having a joyful secret which adds a little lilt to the step.

    Have a great holiday weekend.

  15. Beautiful jackets, inside and out. The buttons are all so wonderful.

  16. Beautiful! I love the special bias binding on the green jacket. But you didn't tell us how you resolved the closing issue. Pray tell! Please!

  17. You need to wear the green jacket inside out so the world can see just how clever you are, beautiful pieces.

  18. Your green jacket is so "Kewl" - inside and out.

  19. MMmmmm . . . beautiful inside finishes! If you're the fudgsicle, I'd be the creamsicle! I bring sweaters with me everywhere I go! Seriously, I had one in the van in NYC and thought seriously about it at the restaurant. People, just because it's slightly warm that doesn't mean we need to be air conditioned back to the ice age!!!

  20. Absolutely beautiful finish inside the jackets- why should you not make bunches of these? You know they will fit and look great,work well in your lifestyle and you have not even started yet on a run in fabulous prints or yummy textures. I wish I had a bunch of these in my closet. mssewcrazy

  21. This post is just what I was looking for! I'm off to finish a UFO - an unlined linen jacket and hopefully, it will look as spectacular as your does on the inside! Thanks for the pictures!


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