...or the construction details of Butterick 5546...I know I promised this yesterday but sadly it was not to be!
First up, pattern alterations:
1. As with any pattern I need to add some width to the finished garment. Luckily I didn't need to add much to this one. To the front piece, I sliced, diced and spread so that the bottom had a 1.5" increase.
2. To the back piece, I did a pivot and slide and added 2". These two simple alterations provided enough space to smoothly flow over my protruding parts.
3. The sleeves (I wish I had taken a picture of the original pattern piece) were very large and bell shaped. I knew I didn't want Sister Bertrille sleeves so I trimmed the side seams by 2" on either side. Then I straightened out the hemline removing the flared shape so that I ended up with a more traditional looking sleeve. I know that in my original post, I said that I was going to add elastic to the seam hem but when I tried the jacket on, I was fine with how it looked and let it stand.
*I pinned and then basted the front yoke to the front piece. I was concerned about getting a proper fit and felt that a little basting would eliminate any shifting during the trip through the sewing machine.
*I added black piping to the collar to give it some definition...without the black framing the collar I feel like it fades into the background because the print on the fabric is very overpowering.
*I trimmed the sleeve hems with the black rayon seam binding preparing to turn them under to hem. However, when I tried the jacket on, I felt that the binding provided an ending to the patterned material, so I left it.
Otherwise, I followed the pattern instructions. The jacket is not terribly difficult to sew and I realize that the fabric choice is what really makes the jacket sing. I'm almost afraid that it sings too loudly to wear to work! And I won't be wearing it with the pants as shown, I'm going to wear it over my little black dress and hopefully I won't look like I'm going out for a night on the town!
I do want to make this with some short sleeves for a spring/summer look...I think it will work great with either a straight skirt or a sheath dress. So you will probably see it again!
One final view of the outfit: