Tuesday, February 23, 2010

The Guts and the Glory

...or the construction details of Butterick  5546...I know I promised this yesterday but sadly it was not to be! 

First up, pattern alterations:

1.  As with any pattern I need to add some width to the finished garment.  Luckily I didn't need to add much to this one.  To the front piece, I sliced, diced and spread so that the bottom had a 1.5" increase.


2. To the back piece, I did a pivot and slide and added 2".  These two simple alterations provided enough space to smoothly flow over my protruding parts.


3.  The sleeves (I wish I had taken a  picture of the original pattern piece) were very large and bell shaped.  I knew I didn't want Sister Bertrille sleeves so I trimmed the side seams by 2" on either side.  Then I straightened out the hemline removing the flared shape so that I ended up with a more traditional looking sleeve.  I know that in my original post, I said that I was going to add elastic to the seam hem but when I tried the jacket on, I was fine with how it looked and let it stand.

Construction

*I pinned and then basted the front yoke to the front piece.  I was concerned about getting a proper fit and felt that a little basting would eliminate any shifting during the trip through the sewing machine.


*All of the exposed seams were finished with black rayon seam binding.  Since the jacket is unlined, I didn't want unfinished seams showing. 


*I added black piping to the collar to give it some definition...without the black framing the collar I feel like it fades into the background because the print on the fabric is very overpowering.


*The back yoke is an interesting detail to the jacket, this piece was also basted down with a bold colored thread so that I could see it on the right side when I machine stitched it down.


*I trimmed the sleeve hems with the black rayon seam binding preparing to turn them under to hem.  However, when I tried the jacket on, I felt that the binding provided an ending to the patterned material, so I left it.

Otherwise, I followed the pattern instructions.  The jacket is not terribly difficult to sew and I realize that the fabric choice is what really makes the jacket sing.  I'm almost afraid that it sings too loudly to wear to work!  And I won't be wearing it with the pants as shown, I'm going to wear it over my little black dress and hopefully I won't look like I'm going out for a night on the town!

I do want to make this with some short sleeves for a spring/summer look...I think it will work great with either a straight skirt or a sheath dress.  So you will probably see it again!

One final view of the outfit:


...more later!

31 comments:

  1. I love it! I have that same fabric, and I was going to use it to make a sheath dress for under a navy blue jacket (I think...) Anyway, thanks for all your great info about how you adjust the patterns. I am just starting to experiment with that now. It has been discouraging not being able to find more stylish patterns in my size. But I decided that I wasn't going to complain about it, and instead learn how to fix it! It's great to see how other people work at something you're learning how to do... Enjoy the jacket - it looks wonderful!

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  2. Very nice. I like how you made simple alterations... as a big-busted plus-size gal myself, some of the alterations I see make me dizzy, all that hacking up and taping etc.

    You look lovely!

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  3. You look gorgeous , I love the fabric and the jacket is very beautiful

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  4. Looks great--have no fear! When I work in more conservative places I get nervous about fabric that has any sheen to it as well. But as long as you keep your coordinating pieces tailored (I like it with what you have on even if you're meh about the look), I don't think anyone will wonder if you're skipping out for a gala.

    [And so what if they do, ha?]

    I actually think a bit of shine and pattern can help stimulate the senses during drearier weather, so think of this jacket as an add to your co-workers' mental health.

    ps "I knew I didn't want Sister Bertrille sleeves so I trimmed the side seams" made me hoot!

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  5. I didn't notice the piping on the collar when I looked over your first post about the finished jacket. But, you're right, of course. The piping does stop the collar from fading into the pattern. Excellent choice!

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  6. I love, love, love, this; especially with the pants. It is so beautiful, classic, um um um ... it is just a wonderful jacket and fabulous outfit.

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  7. Your jacket looks very smart. I particularly like the front yoke and the piping, such fabulous details make it look really expensive. If you wear it to work, your colleagues will be jealous!

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  8. Your outfit is lovely - the jacket is a stunner!

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  9. You look like a million dollars in your new jacket. Just love it.

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  10. Beautiful Carolyn! Love the neckline and the fabric is gorgeous.

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  11. Oh, Carolyn, that is stunning! I wish I'd bought some of that fabric.

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  12. I really just love this jacket, the cut, the fabric, the little details, everything.

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  13. Wow, this is so beautiful and
    elegant and the fabric looks very
    expensive.

    You look lovely in it.
    Sandra

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  14. What a stunning outfit. It looks spectacular on you.

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  15. Thanks so much for this post. I loved the jacket when you posted it and it is wonderful, and incredibly helpful, to get an inside peek at the construction. I love to see how experts like yourself do things.

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  16. Your jacket is lovely, and I agree that you should wear it to your workplace as a kind of mental health "upper" to everyone therein, after beautifully dressed people just lift everyone's spirits, don't they?
    The style really suits you. Are you going to make in a "springy" kind of colour for your spring wardrobe too?

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  17. It looks so expensive--and I know what you paid for the fabric because I did too! Lovely.

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  18. Love this jacket! I like that you added piping to the jacket collar.

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  19. I love the jacket. Its nice to see how you make alterations too.
    kathy

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  20. That's a very pretty jacket, and it looks terrific over those pants. Honstly, you look great in slacks.

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  21. The jacket is gorgeous, and your piping detail is perfect. You look wonderfully stylish and chic in it, too! Brava!

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  22. Love the jacket - the entire outfit is so classy!!

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  23. What a beautiful outfit. You look gorgeous. Elizabeth

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  24. You look perfectly stunning in this outfit. (I'll bet that you get a lot of complements on it if you do wear it to work!)

    Thank you so very much for sharing your sewing adventures. You have convinced me to alter a master pattern to fit, and get back into the swing of things!

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  25. I think it looks gorgeous! I've been stalking your blog and I've seen you on PR. You are very talented, and give a newbie, like me, inspiration.

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  26. Gorgeous! And I love the binding. what a beautiful touch. now I want to make this jacket even more!

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  27. You look georgeous in that outfit. The jacket is beautiful. I am off to purchase that pattern--I must have one too!

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  28. Have I said I love this jacket? Love it. You look fantastic in it. (And, I really wanted to buy this pattern, but rooting through my stash, found another very similar pattern, so I might even make this up! )

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  29. The black binding around the collar and wrists was a great call. Just enough pop to make them stand out. And truly, I don't think it's too loud for the office. I actually think it's one of those great pieces that can easily move from day-to-night with a quick change in accessories and make-up. :)

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  30. I love the fabric! great job!!!

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