Tuesday, January 03, 2012

Designer Inspired - Erdem Interpretation Final

Technically this is an easy sew...I mean I started this journey with my TNT pattern...so first some pictures:


front view


back/side view


back view


another front view with the 3/4 length sleeves


Pattern:
TNT Dress


Fabric:
1 yard wool black/white houndstooth fabric from Mood
1.5 yard ltwt. black wool crepe from Fabric Mart


Notions:
ambience rayon lining
22" black invisible zipper
2 yards of 1" black lace
2 yards of black seam binding


Pattern Alterations:
I really liked the pleats in the neckline of the designer original.  So to get them, I altered my TNT dress pattern front by simply adding some space to the neckline and two pleats to the side front.  I went looking for the "how-to" amongst my sewing library, but since it's still packed in totes, I honestly didn't look that hard and winged it for most of the pattern alteration.  That's my disclaimer so that you know that no real technical skill was used to make the alteration.


I added four lines at the corner of the neckline.  Each line was 1" apart and 3.25" long.  I chose this spot based upon the placement on the designer original.
  


After I made the changes to my pattern, I pinched it together to make sure that it worked.  I was a little concerned that when I laid the pattern piece on the fold that I was gaining about an inch in the abdomen area but I thought that the dress was suppose to be shift like anyway so hopefully it wouldn't matter.  If there ended up being too much fabric in the front, I would just make larger side seams.  I know so totally un-technical right?  But you know the cook who doesn't use the recipe or who doesn't look at the measurements but the dish turns out great...well, that's me when it comes to sewing sometimes.  Not all the time, but sometimes.




Luckily my alterations worked but it did alter the neckline of my dress pattern making the fit a little closer to my neck...which was fine because the altered neckline looks more like the designer original.


The 3/4 length sleeves are one of the sleeve options I've developed for my TNT dress over the course of the dress' history.  The 3/4 length sleeves are really the perfect finishing touch for this dress.


Construction:
I've made this dress a time or two before so there are no new construction details.  However, the hand of the fabric did require some special treatment.  


*I added a 5/8" strip of knit fusible interfacing to the herringbone wool's neckline because it was very soft and this added some stability to the neckline.




*I also added the same fusible interfacing to the back neckline of the dress after putting the invisible zipper in because the back was a tad wobbly.  I probably should have interfaced the center back seam too but it worked out okay after some steaming and sewing the lining down.


*The tucks are just basted in.  I considered stitching them down but decided against it.  The released tucks are more like the designer original.




*I also stabilized the shoulder seams with stay tape when I stitched them together.  I wanted to make sure that they didn't stretch out since both fabrics were a bit unstable.




*The dress is lined and has a lace hem...my standard lining hem treatment.


*The sleeves are also lined because the black wool crepe is a little lightweight.  I don't normally line my sleeves but as I stated before I want to wear this dress without a jacket or cardigan.


*I used what I call the Nancy's Notions method of lining sleeves.  Cut the sleeve lining an inch shorter than the fashion fabric.  Add a strip of interfacing to the sleeve hemline.  Stitch the lining and fashion fabric together.  Press the seam open.  Fold the sleeve right sides together and stitch from the top to the bottom.  Press the seam open.  Then fold the lining inside and baste the two pieces together at the sleeve cap.  Give one more good press to the sleeve and insert it into the dress.


Those were the most interesting construction highlights...it is a TNT pattern after all!  But I'm thrilled with the outcome.  One final thing...the net-a-porter dress cost $1,390 and my version cost $49.98 ($35 for fabric, $13.96 for lining, $1.02 for notions).


So my first garment for 2012 is done and even though it didn't appear on my sewing list, I'm glad I was flexible enough to go with the flow.  Next up will be my Lavender & Grey pieces...


Parting Shot:
These are the shoes I will wear with the dress in homage to the original designer look...




...as always, more later!







64 comments:

  1. Love the way it looks with those shoes :)

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  2. Love it, and those shoes are perfect. I'm eagerly awaiting the Lavender and Greys now.

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  3. The dress came out great. But those shoes, I love them!

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  4. I am slowly getting around to thinking I need to add a houndstooth something to my wardrobe - your great dress is yet another reason - it looks so good

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  5. Cool choice of shoes. All the reinforcing interfacing and lining will make this dress wear well. It's a winner.

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  6. Very nice! Those shoes *are* perfect with that dress!

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  7. The shoes are gorgeous! Thanks for this method of lining the sleeves. I will definitely be using this tip. Once again you've made an incredible interpretation of a designer dress and it really looks good on you.

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  8. That was quick! It turned out great and the shoes are perfect. I think you may have your Erdem dress before the high-end shoppers do!

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  9. Both the dress and the shoes are lovely. You look absolutely smashing :))

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  10. Very nice. Love it. Love your shoes too. Thankyou for this method of lining the sleeve.

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  11. Looks fantastic. The black was an inspired choice, nicer than the original.

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  12. Nice work! Love the shoes too :)

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  13. You've started 2012 off with a bang. Great interpretation of inspiration dress but those shoes have me drooling. You know I can't wear heels right now, yet here you are torturing me! I thought you liked me~

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  14. Carolyn, you know I'm not a 'shoe' person, but I noted those even before your picture of them! The dress is gorgeous--what a great way to sew your way into the New Year!

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  15. Wow! Awesome dress and fab shoes. Way to start the year. Thanks for showing the construction details.

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  16. Wonderfully chic start to the year!

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  17. What a fast sew, with such great results! Love the shoes you are pairing with the dress.

    Interesting technique for lining the sleeves - when I read it, I had a "why didn't I think of that moment."

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  18. Great dress, Carolyn, what a perfect way to start 2012. Fantastic shoes, too. Thanks for the lining sleeves explanation.

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  19. You're accomplished at the knock offs and this is another star! Love the shoes!

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  20. A very well done successful project again. I love it and your taste in shoes really compliments your taste of fashion.

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  21. You are off to a great start, you dress is awesome and with those shoes, "WORD" as my son would say or "OFF THE CHAIN" as my niece would say. In our language it means AWESOME.

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  22. Beautiful dress, looks fabulous on you.

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  23. This dress is beautiful, and I just love those shoes!

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  24. A great start to a new year. Thanks for explaining how you did everything.

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  25. Love this dress!!! I've also been lusting after something houndstooth and this dress is a knock-out!!! As are your shoes....You can't just tempt us with them and not tell us where you got them!!!!

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  26. Wow! I was having trouble visualizing how the black sleeves were going to work with this dress, but I see they really set off the houndstooth. Great call! And I love those shoes.

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  27. Great job on the dress and I love the shoes.

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  28. I adore the shoes!
    The neckline tucks really add so much to the overall look of the dress-amazing how such a small detail can add so much interest to a simple dress!

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  29. I love it!! I'm a little bit obsessed with houndstooth at the moment, and this is perfect. Those shoes are amazing, too.

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  30. What a great start to 2012! I can't wait to see all the things you create this year!

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  31. Very sharp. I've been noticing a lot of nlocking using solids with graphic prints. Love this interpretation...thinking how cool it would look as a skirt with houndstooth panels front and back and black sides.....hmmmmm..may have to try that.

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  32. My, that was quick! Beautiful! What I love about this design - even though you're using a "plaid", there's no matching pesky stripes at the seams! Brilliant.

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  33. Happy New Year! Great dress. I am glad that I live where I don't have to wear lined woolen dresses to stay warm inside. Instead, I have to devise strategies to cope with the heat in the summertime, as well as hot flashes and the need to adequately cover my middle-aged body. I love to read your postings, to see how you adapt current styles for your/my body type. Have a lovely rest-of-the week.

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  34. I know you are wowing them in the office today; it looks smashing.

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  35. You're so quick! Great winter look for you. And those shoes!

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  36. Love it, love it, love it. What a great job of interpretation--and those shoes! Everything looks beautiful--and so do you.

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  37. I knew it would come out looking beautiful. Love the shoes.

    ~Sewjourner

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  38. I so enjoy watching and reading how you take your inspiration dress and change/adapt it to work for you.
    I really like the houndstooth fabric. It is classic.
    I have a question- Are you a member of "Julie's Pick" club at Fabric Mart? If you are, would you be willing to share the pros and cons of joining?
    Thank you!!

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  39. Caroline love this! So far I have copied your Heidi Merrick dress. the red and black knit dress with the strip trim. This will be next! :) LOL! What are you making this week end? I want to know what I am making in a few weeks from now. :)

    If you ever come to Boston, please don't wear the above dresses, as I will be wearing mine! :) ~Valerie

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  40. Great dress! I love houndstooth!

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  41. Wonderful dress and just love those shoes.

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  42. You are too, too cute! Great dress as always. I notice the price of the dress when I read your last post. I looked on net a port to find your dress and notice the price. Aren't you glad you can sew!

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  43. I love the pearls and brooch with this dress. Fab look all around!

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  44. Nice way to begin the new year.

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  45. Wow, it's Gorgeous!!! I love the combination of fabrics, very chic but comfortable.

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  46. Wonderful look and great execution.

    I particularly like how you have added the sleeves to sleeveless, so to speak. I am not happy with my arms and seeing you do this has been inspirational.

    BtW

    1. I really appreciate your construction details.

    2. Love the shoes.

    Cheers.

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  47. What a cute dress and I love the shoes.

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  48. You look fabulous!This is my new favorite of your interpretations. And the shoes just put the look over the top. Smashing!

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  49. Sharp and sophisticated! Very nice.

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  50. Lovely dress and fabulous shoes.

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  51. Love the dress and it's like a surprise with the solid color back. I also read your cleansing pallette post. Carolyn you are one of the reasons I came back to sewing you inspired me so much. I truly enjoy your blog and look forward to whatever you have to say. And when you post pictures of what you made, well, who needs a fashion magazine we have our own plus sized model in her own magazine. I got a new sewing machine for Christmas a big one with all the bells and whistles and though many won't agree Singer is coming back up in the world so I will continue to read your blog to be inspired and use this machine, thanks! Happy New Year.

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  52. What a beautiful result. I enjoyed the link to the fashion site a couple of posts ago and got great ideas, too. You've inspired me to try a couple out! (that is after I finish my .. and my ... oh,yea, i want to finish that skirt, too ..and ...)

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  53. The shoes are so fabulous! Love your interpretation of the dress, and adding sleeves was such a good idea.

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  54. Hi Carolyn, I just found your blog and I loved it.. YOu have made some beautiful garments.. And they fit so well.. Happy sewing.

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  55. Your dress reminds me of the jacket Terrance Howard was wearing on the Regis Philbin show today. Unfortunately I find a url to pull up and show you.

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  56. I am so inspired by your dress and it looks great on you. I have 2 yds of blk/wht houndstooth and wasn't sure what to do with it.

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  57. arolyn, I love the way you get inspired with a design, then make it your own. After seeing your dress, it motivated me to learn more about Erdem.

    Honestly, looking at the runway models does very little for me. It takes too much imagination for me to see how I might make it wearable for my age, my figure and my lifestyle.

    You are so good at it!!

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  58. Sista' Girl, You are rockin' that bad a** dress. Love, love it. Ms. Carolyn you are phenomenal.

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  59. WOW! You are starting the year in a stylish fashion. Thanks for sharing the sewing tips! As always, I love your look.

    Sue

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  60. Beautiful look, and those construction details will ensure you can wear this for a loooong time!

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  61. Nice dress, I love black & white hounds tooth and I love the shoes.

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