Saturday, January 05, 2013

Pleasant Purple Jacket - Vogue 8815

This post is all about the jacket's construction.  Since I decided not to make a muslin, I thought I would baste the jacket together to check for fit.  So here is the jacket basted together on Lulu...





Since the wool was already backed with a fusible interfacing, I didn't bother serge finishing the pieces.  I plan on lining the jacket and the fabric wasn't going to ravel so I skipped that step.  I sewed the pieces together using a 4.0 stitch on my Janome 6600P and I pressed all the seams open.  I just couldn't help myself!  I didn't think I would get as good an idea about the fit if the seams weren't pressed open.

Here are a few changes I made as I basted the pieces together...

*The 5/8" seam allowance that I added to the front peplum was removed.  It wasn't needed so it was easy to slice off.
*There was a 1/4" seam allowance removed from the sides so that it would match up with the back piece.

There were major changes made to the sleeves.  I'd already made adjustments to the sleeves but they were way too tight with a sleeve cap that was too high.  First I made adjustments to the sleeve cap by cutting it down from a size 24 to a size 20 merging it in on the sides.


Then I placed my short sleeve dress pattern under the newly adjusted sleeve pattern, to use it to add additional width at the biceps.



Here is the redrawn sleeve...



Now the sleeves fit my bodacious biceps.

I worked on the jacket and still something was wrong with it.  The sleeve didn't hang quite right and I was starting to get discouraged.  Finally I decided to recut the front and back pieces again. To the front piece, I added about 1.5 inches above the dart.  I did this because the front and back pieces weren't matching that amount.  But recutting those pieces meant that I couldn't make the dress.  The potential of the jacket made me go for it. I could find another way to make the dress work with the fabric I had left.

So I basted everything back together and as you can see from above it works...and not just on Lulu but on me too.   Now I have to make lining pieces for the front/back and peplum pieces and attach them to the fashion fabric.  This is where I'm at...guess that means there will be one more update post before the reveal...hope you don't mind!?! I do need to keep a record for myself so that if I get the crazy idea to make this jacket again (don't really think that's happening...but nevah say nevah!) I will have a record of what I did.

...as always more later!







20 comments:

  1. Love it - I am working on my own 8815 at the moment - through the Craftsy lessons. I have plans in the future to create a short sleeved jacket with it and am really eager to see how yours turns out - it is looking mighty fine.

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  2. Keep going Carolyn.....looking good. It's very helpful to see you work through the process and how you fix the 'glitches' along the way.

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  3. Go for it. Save the pieces you didn't use and make a black or solid dress accented with blue. I think that will work just as well as an all blue outfit.

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  4. That certainly does look like a pleasant jacket. Lately I've been spending so much time on my paid job and unpaid job (blogging) I haven't had time to sew.

    What would you say is an ideal project for an ambitious beginning sewist?

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  5. this is looking lovely. And yes, I do hope you've kept the discarded pieces to work with a potential dress - maybe some color blocking? g

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  6. Looking good so far and can't wait for the reveal. I'm sure you'll find a creative way to make the dress with the fabric you have left... I can see some color blocking coming our way... that's what I'm picturing anyway LOL

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  7. It's looking good. You always figure your way out of a dilema so I know you'll come up with some thing to make the dress.

    Keep on sewing!

    ~Sewjourner

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  8. great save! That's what I love about buying plenty of yardage. Sometimes you need to cut a new piece. The color and the silhouette look great.

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  9. Looking good. I'm sewing a jacket right along with you. I love how you show your process.

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  10. I love reading about your creative process. It's inspiring. My 8000 died in an unfortunate power surge. Not mine, the electricity. I have many of the embroidery discs that I would happily send to your daughter. Please email me: rsgriffin at gmail and let me know if you're interested. Thanks!

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  11. Are you sleeping at ALL during this sewcation? LOL

    Love the color! Love the peplum!

    Tomorrow is your photo day (I think), so my patience doesn't have to wait too much longer. Be still my heart ...

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  12. Looks great so far - definitely worth persevering

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  13. You are one determined lady!

    I'm with you on pressing the seams open for try ons. It's difficult to see what's going on if you don't.

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  14. This is going to be fabulous, well worth using the extra fabric. I hope you'll incorporate this fabric into a dress, maybe in color blocking or some form of embellishment,it's really pretty.

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  15. Thanks for sharing the jacket's progress. It's looking good! Will you include facings or line to the edge?

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  16. Oh, I'm loving this! The peplum is so cute!

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  17. What a wonderful sewcation you are having! And a new sewing machine to boot!

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  18. I love that color! It is going to be a gorgeous jacket!

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  19. This is going to be a winner. The style is flattering, the color is so bright and perfect for winter. Nice so far, Carolyn!

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