Anyway, I was intrigued by some of the comments left on my last post...
Ugh, grading up is the bane of my sewing life. I'm in love with the Sewaholic range but I keep putting off buying and sewing because of the extra effort involved. In saying that, Colettes sizing is different from the Big 4: their 18 is B46 W38 H48, very close to a Simplicity 24W, but also designed for a C cup. I will still have to grade up but at least the starting point is closer to my numbers. I suspect other indie designers also have different sizing.
I second what Blacey said. You have to compare the sizing chart of the independent with the sizing chart of the Big 4. Some indies are closer to modern RTW sizes, not the ones developed 70 years ago.
I was very bummed about Sewaholic patterns not being available in my size, then I actually looked at the measurements. My 20 in Vogue is quite close to Sewaholics 16. As a matter of fact I made the Renfrew without alterations and it fits perfectly. Also as Sewaholics patterns are designed for a "pear shape" they would very likely be easy to grade up, for someone who has some junque in the trunque. I remember Tasia writing about the plus size issue, and she said she just doesn't have the knowledge to do it properly. I am sorry, I have tried to find the post where this was written so I could include a link, but alas, I couldn't find it.
So I'll be honest peoples...when I was checking things out I looked at numbers only...not the measurements beneath the size/number. Being duly chastised for being slipshod with the research, I decided to go back and look at the measurements and compare them to Butterick patterns measurements.
This is what I found...
Colette Patterns size 18 equals a 22/24 in Butterick
Grainline Studios size 18 equals a 22 in Butterick
Jamie Christina Patterns size 20 equals a 22 in Butterick
Megan Nielson Patterns size XL equals a 20/22 in Butterick
Sewaholic Patterns size 16 equals an 18 in Butterick
Sew Chic Patterns size 16 equals an 18 in Butterick
Victory Patterns size 16 equals a 22 in Butterick
Why did I choose Butterick as the standard?
Well basically Butterick, Vogue and McCalls sizing charts are very similar. Also, these are the pattern lines I sew from the most. However, I did notice that this is on the smaller end of the plus size scale. While it would fit me and I could work with some of these patterns, I really don't call this a plus size.
Another reason for choosing Butterick is that I need all of that ease that is incorporated in the pattern. I know for others especially in the smaller sizes, the amount of ease is off-putting. I have no way of knowing what the ease of the indies is...and since I've made one bad assumption...I'm just not going there again! *LOL* But it is a concern for me since I don't like close-fitting garments. Dayum the trends, I gotta sew and wear what works for my lifestyle and me.
Finally, I'm glad that the patterns do reach a larger base. If you're teetering on the edge of plus size, or wear a smaller plus size number then you could use these. If, however, you are more towards the 26-30ish range, none of these indies will work for you without a lot of grading up.
...and speaking of patterns, all of us who still use BMV patterns, they are on sale until Sunday, June 23rd. Buttericks are $1.88 ($1.50), McCalls are $2.88 ($2.30) and Vogues are $3.88 ($3.10) if you're not a Club BMV member. If you are a Club BMV member, the prices are in the parenthesis.
+ + +
It's Friday and after a very full work week, I will be spending the weekend putting my sewing room back together! I went downstairs after the dehumidifers left sat down and realized that even though this is the perfect opportunity to change the room around, I don't have the heart. I will change a few things but the major set up will be the same.
The basics will go in this weekend. The fabric will go in next weekend because I've taken two days off to do it. I really Just.Want.To.Sew! I'm gonna see if by hook or by crook I can make that happen this weekend.
...as always more later!