Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

Saturday Morning Diary Bits

2012-01-28T14:39:00.002-05:00

Well it's the weekend again...and thank goodness because it has been a long week! I've done no sewing this week but that's no surprise since I rarely sew during the week. However, I have purchased a few things:

1. A tripod

Thanks to Shams who fielded quite a few questions and gave me a lot of encouragement, this arrived a couple of days ago. So not only will I hopefully be able to take pictures of myself in my garments but you will probably be subjected to a few posts on me learning how to use it too.

2. A book, "Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers"

This book has been on my Amazon wishlist for awhile, ever since Ann, of Gorgeous Things, reviewed it. It went on sale earlier this week, a $22 savings, so I snatched it up.

3. February 2012 BurdaStyle Issue

You know I gave up Burda Style pattern magazine last year. In my opinion, the subscription price is over the top for patterns that I was no longer inspired by and the Universal newsstand where I bought the issues one off closed a few months ago. They had stopped carrying them before they closed and I just didn't have the time to troop around NYC to hunt down copies. So why did I buy this issue? I loved this dress.

The color blocking is awesome and I thought I could make it using my TNT pattern but I really wanted to see the pattern pieces so that my rendition would be as close to the original as possible. Then Audrey of Sew Tawdry went and reviewed it on PR, and I knew I had to own a copy of the magazine. I don't know if I will get to it soon (like in the next 2 or 3 weeks) but definitely before February is done...there is that 3 day weekend coming up for President's Day and it would give me the time I needed to work on the pattern alterations since it only goes up to a size 42.

4. A piece of fabric

I was in a bad place earlier in the week and the only thing that would soothe my soul was fabric. You know how it is, the imaginings of a new garment from a new piece of fabric ~ okay maybe you don't know how it is! *LOL* But it works for me and in this instance I even showed restraint and only purchased one piece along with a piece of lining to make the $35 free shipping on fabric.com. Anyway, I also found this Vintage Vogue Pattern on eBay that perfectly displayed the idea I saw in my head when I bought the fabric...

Vogue 9127 is on the left and the one I want to make

Another idea added to my sewing list...this is a piece that can be worn into early spring and would make a great work dress...so even if it doesn't get made until April it would be fine since the wool is a lightweight wool blend. Speaking of April...

5. 10 more weekends to sew winter gear
...that's including this weekend of course and also includes one more three day weekend. I worked this out earlier in the week which was really helpful in figuring out how many outfits from my sewing list have the ability to be completed. Sometimes my sewing list can overwhelm me, so knowing how much time I have left to complete it, helps me to assess what from my list will actually get made. I mean not like anyone else is as obsessed with sewing as much as I am! *LOL*

So I'm off...I want to work on my cardigan and top for the Lavender and Gray Skies wardrobe. I'm getting close to finishing up this wardrobe and I want to wear it to work this week especially since we are experiencing unseasonably warm temps for winter here in the NY/NJ metro area.

...as always, more later...

Pockets, Pockets, Pockets

2012-01-25T23:00:00.001-05:00

Last night "The State of the Union" address was given by President Obama and this morning I went to the blog, Mrs. O, to see what the First Lady wore. I missed the address because I was out. She was wearing a Barbara Tfank dress from the Resort 2012 line so I moseyed on over to style.com to check out the line. After closing out the screen, the Spring Couture 2012 lines popped up and a blue dress in the Chanel line caught my eye. I clicked in and thought I would just take a peek...

You know I ended up taking more than a peek. I ended up viewing the entire collection, then printing some pics out for my inspiration board...but as I looked at garment after garment, all I could think is that it was all about the pockets.

Now what does this remind you of:

(all pics courtesy of style.com)

And doesn't this look like

McCalls 5007 and the Rachel Skirt

Aren't these pants kewl with

the deep pockets on the side:

I just love what I can see of this dress:

Almost every model walked the runway with her hands in some type of pocket. But what struck me the most was the use of that invisible pocket that was featured in the Rachel Cormey skirt. I mean Karl Lagerfeld used this pocket quite a bit in some really creative ways...he added a satin band, he added a floral embellishment, a sequined embellishment, and the frayed edge of the fabric. I thought I was doing something when I used that pocket on my Rachel Dress but Lagerfeld took it to an entirely different level.

I have another Rachel Dress on my winter sewing list and after seeing the Chanel Couture Spring 2012 line, I'm moving that one up to the top of the list cause those pockets, pockets, pockets are doing a number on me!

...as always, more later!

It's starting to look like a collection

2012-01-23T22:43:00.004-05:00

There are now four pieces of the Lavender and Gray Skies Wardrobe completed.

The dress, the pants & the skirt are all from the

gray tropical wool using my TNT patterns.

I know hanger shots stink

but they're all I've got now!

The jacket is finished and made from the wool jersey

and sweater knit. I'm still not in love with it...*sigh*

I've cut the pieces for the cardigan out so its up next. Thank goodness because I so need to work with some color because the gray is seriously getting to me. So glad I've sewn the last piece in it...Yes!!!...It's starting to look like a collection...

...as always, more later!

Saturday Update

2012-01-21T14:29:00.000-05:00

So it's Saturday afternoon here in NJ and it's stopped snowing...I'm safely ensconced in the sewing cave with the heater going and the TV playing...more Law & Order of course! *smile*

I'm going to spend the weekend working on the rest of the pieces of the Lavender and Gray Skies wardrobe. I'm adding the facings to the jacket and hemming the sleeves then I'm moving onto the dress. If I have time left this weekend, I will work on the cardigan also. If I get all of this done, it will leave only the two tops to be completed.

As a reminder the two tops are, Simplicity 2566 ~ in the white cotton stretch fabric and I've added Butterick 3124 an out of print sleeveless cowl neck top from the cardigan fabric.

I've read the PR reviews for it and Lara's review on her blog, Thornberry. One of the first things I plan on doing is lengthening the top. Even from the photos on the pattern envelope the top is too short. If I have enough fabric I may make it dress length but that's something that I will determine when I'm working on the garment. I do like the fact that the top has side bust darts, which are my darts of choice.

Since I no longer have a photographer and haven't figured out how to take pics of myself yet...trying to decide if I want an entirely new camera...it will be a minute before I have pictures of me in the completed garments. But I am happily sewing away in my sewing cave working on finishing up this wardrobe.

...as always, more later!

Just the Basics...

2012-01-17T21:01:00.000-05:00

I finished three pieces this weekend...

I'm really missing my white closet wall these days!

...although all the pieces didn't belong to the Lavender and Gray Skies wardrobe. As you can see from above, I made 2 pairs of pants and a skirt. The pants belong to the UFO vest that I mentioned in this post. I guess the cold got to me because when I sat down to sew on Saturday I started working on the pants first. Well actually I spent Saturday cutting out all the pieces from the gray tropical wool, the lining for the pieces and pretreating the white fabric for the blouse.

I made the pants on Sunday with no changes to the way I make my TNT pattern. Except that when I made the gray & white pinstripe pair last year, I used a flat lining technique. After wearing them, I realized that I don't like the seams on my inner thighs. So even though the linings don't rub out this way, I'm not comfortable using this technique in my pants. The cheater method (serging the lining fabric to the fashion fabric and then sewing them as one piece of fabric) works so much better for me.

The fabric for the second pair is from the Vera Wang fabric haul from a few years ago. And of course, both have rayon bemberg lining in them, the stretch elastic in the waistline and seam binding in the hems.

The Lavender and Gray Skies Straight Skirt
Pattern:
TNT skirt pattern

Fabric:
Gray wool tropical from Fabric Mart

Notions:
White Rayon Bemberg lining
9" invisible zipper
2 - 1/2" steel buttons
1 yard of 2" wide lace
1 yard of gray seam binding

Again this is a TNT pattern so there aren't any new construction techniques. However, the fabric did require a little assistance. I added a 1" strip of fusible interfacing to the center back seams to stabilize them for the invisible zipper insertion...

The lace that I chose to add to the lining will also be used on the dress lining...

...and I added two buttons to the waistline...the same buttons that will be used on the cardigan and coordinating jacket.

Gawd is that stitching crooked...thank God it will be covered!

Egads, I'm gonna have to remove that...I don't think I can live with it. *sigh*

I have to admit that before I began working on these pieces I was worried that they wouldn't work with the jacket...that light/dark contrast thing. But they seem to be fine and I'm encouraged enough to continue working on the rest of the pieces.

I'm finishing up the jacket now and will move onto the dress, cardigan and shirt. I hope to finish these pieces up by the end of the month because I really want to finish off the other garments on my list before I catch spring fever.

...as always, more later!

MLK Day

2012-01-16T07:00:00.000-05:00

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

January 15, 1929 ~ April 4, 1968

"Now I say to you today my friends, even though we face the difficulties of today and tomorrow, I still have a dream. I have a dream that one day, this nation will rise up and live out the true meaning of its creed - 'We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal.'

Speech on Civil Rights March on Washington, August 28, 1963

Watching the Golden Globes...

2012-01-15T21:29:00.000-05:00

Okay this is a very exciting Sunday for me...

www.yahoo.com

First the Giants Won! OMG! The Giants won!

I have to admit that I thought the Packers were gonna wipe them off the field (bad fan, bad fan!) and I could only watch the final quarter (kept updated by Yahoo) because I was watching the Red Carpet on E! But they won! They won!!!!! Next up the NFC Championship game...

Second, I LOVE red carpet season...the shows are okay and I do watch but I avidly watch the red carpet shows, check the internet afterwards to see the dresses I missed because I'm so inspired by the fashion. I'm sure you're wondering how can evening gowns inspire...but think about it. The colors that are on the red carpet are usually the new trends. I love the silhouettes and how the dresses are put together. I definitely get ideas for combinations and colors from the gowns...and my favorite of the night hands down was Angelina Jolie:

www.dailymail.co.uk

I also loved Viola Davis' dress, Kate Winslet, Claire Danes (wouldn't this combination make a great dress!), and for plus size chicks Octavia Spencer. To me everyone looked so amazing tonight! Even Sarah Michelle Geller who has already been panned for her dress.

Finally the red carpet fashion show made me think of my top five fashion movies. I own all of these except one on DVD and love them for the fashion inspiration that they provide. They are:

1. Lucy Gallant
This movie is from 1955 and stars Charlton Heston and Jane Wyman. It is the story of a woman who goes to Texas and starts a women's clothing store devoted to high fashion. One of the highlights of the film for me is the fashion show that is narrated by Edith Head. (btw I have this on VHS, I taped it from the TV one evening, have been totally unable to find this on DVD.)

2. Mahogany
This was Diana Ross' second film and was about a girl from Detroit who only wanted to design and the price she paid (giving up Billy Dee Williams - what the h*ll was she thinking!?!) to have her dream of designing her own fashion line. Okay she gets Billy Dee in the end but seriously she left him...

3. The Women (2008)
This is the adaptation of the 1938 movie featuring Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford but updated with Meg Ryan, Annette Benning, Debra Messing, Jada Pinkett-Smith, etc. But my favorite part of the movie is the fashion show towards the end that features Narcisco Rodriguez's garments.

4. Valentino - The Last Emperor
This is just the most amazing display of photography...my friend called it an art show and not a movie and I have to agree! It is Valentino all the time and an awesome tribute to this marvelous designer.

and finally the one that would make everyone's list...

5. The Devil Wears Prada
Meryl Streep and Anne Hathaway, designer gear, and a much better story than the book! Oh yeah and the designer clothes! *LOL* ..."that's all"

So what would your top five fashion movies be?

...as always, more later...and sorry Packers fans!

The fabric collection spreadsheet

2012-01-14T19:11:00.000-05:00

Shannon of Hungry Zombie Couture is an Organizational Goddess. Seriously! Her last couple of blog posts have been about her fabric closet, how she organized & folded it and how she keeps track of her fabric. Since I'm getting ready to move my fabric from the bins to fabric shelves, these posts really caught my eye.

After moving all of this fabric from the old apartment to the new townhouse, I've decided that somewhere there should be some kind of list of exactly what I own. I have a good idea in my head but I can tell you that I definitely found pieces that I'd forgotten about as I packed up the collection. So instead of laying out and cutting my gray pieces last night, I embarked upon making my own fabric excel spreadsheet.

I decided to start with the pieces that are laying around. I can tell you that this is a very involved process and I applaud anyone who has maintained this type of database. I've entered exactly 17 pieces of fabric and I'm in awe of how much work this is. I think I'm gonna enter a few of the fabric bins before they are opened and placed on the shelves because can I say it again, this is ALOT of work! *LOL*

However, I've learned a few things:
1. Did you know that both Fabric Mart and fabric.com keep a listing of all your fabric purchases.
Now this can be a good and a bad thing. Good because I was able to find a piece of fabric on Fabric Mart's site that I purchased in 2005 enabling me to get most of the specifics onto the spreadsheet. However, they have every purchase I've made since 2005...people that's 7 years of fabric buying which is definitely the bad side.

2. Even the coupon codes are listed on both sites.
So you not only know how much the yardage originally was but what discount you received.

3. Thank goodness that I've been tagging my fabric as it's shown up. It will make putting most of the entries in very easy...time-consuming but easy.

I've only got 17 pieces entered but I want to keep this up because it's not only informative but it will be very helpful. It's just a very large task entering all of the fabric I have...guess I'll just have to take it one piece at a time.

There was a question on my "Thanks" post from Szmusil...
"Regarding wool...Once your garments are sewn, how do you care for them? Do you dry clean? Hand wash? Some other method?"

Szmusil - let me tell you first that I have ALOT of clothes. For the last few years on average I've made at least one garment a week. So most of my clothing gets one or two wearings a season. Pants get a little more wear but I'm trying to change that by wearing more dresses/skirts or my jeans to work and changing into a dress or a skirt. Okay so that was a huge aside but I think it's important to understand why I chose the method of cleaning that I have. I dry clean my wool garments and not very often because I don't wear them repeatedly. I just like how they are cleaned and how they come back pressed. I know that drycleaning is not everyone's preferred method of cleaning but it works for me.

I think I'll get to the actual business of sewing tonight so more about the new pieces soon...

...as always, more later!

In Real Life...

2012-01-13T21:18:00.001-05:00

I've wanted to do this before but I never get a full week of pictures taken and I didn't this week either. But I'm going to share the pics with you that I do have...

Monday

The revised MK dress

with a RTW cashmere turtleneck

Tuesday

The Erdem Dress

(notice it's missing the great shoes)

Wednesday

I made this skirt 5 years ago

and am wearing it with a RTW twinset

Thursday - I wore a RTW sweater dress that I got for a song so no pic. And today I wore jeans and a turtleneck with cardigan combination because we were cleaning out our storage room...and most of the staff was in jeans.

I called this post "In Real Life" because I find that many times I take pictures at home and I don't always bring "the look" to work for one reason or another...sometimes because I just don't want to cart my shoes with me that early in the morning! *LOL* Sad to say I have 2 complete sets of shoes at work and home...

Anyway, it's Friday! I'm home (jetted out of work as soon as I possibly could!) and I'm in the sewing cave with the heat pumping and the TV talking to me. I'm going to cut my basics (skirt, dress, pants) out tonight so that I can start stitching in the morning. I have no incentive to leave the house this weekend because the temps just plummeted here in my corner of the world and you know how much I hate the cold!

A parting shot:
A close up of my necklace ~ I love Heidi Daus jewelry and I just started collecting it. This is one of my favorite pieces and I love it against the Erdem inspired dress...

...as always, more later!

Thanks!

2012-01-12T00:01:00.001-05:00

Overwhelmingly, I was told that the Lavender & Gray Skies Jacket is a success in your eyes! You also supplied some food for thought with the suggestions you left in the comments section. Some of which I am seriously considering because they jive with my own thought patterns and some I'm considering because they have ignited a creative spark.

I am, however, taking the advice to withhold judgement on the jacket until all the other pieces are completed. I can see how I'm a little too close to it and even though I don't make alot of jackets, I still end up with 4 or 5 every year. So Sherrill, you are right that I do prefer cardigans but I still need jackets in my work wardrobe for certain events and meetings.

Someone asked what I do. I work for an investment bank so it's a pretty corporate environment and the only time its casual is on Fridays...and even that depends upon what type of meetings are scheduled for that day. MaryBeth, I'm definitely considering a scarf from the knit and I think I have enough left over that I may even see if I could make a sweater dress. So there are possibilities, which is why I'm keeping my mind open.

Ursula, thanks so much for your kind offer of the wool jersey but the jacket is almost done and the sleeves work for me so I don't need it. But that was very, very kind of you to offer. And to everyone who offered a solution, thank you for caring enough to share your thoughts. Please do not feel that you need to apologize or add a disclaimer when you offer your opinion. I have no problems with you leaving your comment/opinion as long as its done respectfully...and since all of you were so much more wowed by the jacket than I was, I don't think that was an issue!

I have three days off this weekend because Dr. Martin Luther King's Birthday is celebrated on Monday. I have no real plans for the weekend...so you know where I'll be...SEWING! I want to work on the basics, the skirt, the lined pair of pants and the dress from the gray tropical wool. If I'm really industrious maybe I can get the white shirt or the cardigan made too. We'll see.

Finally, I love crime dramas on TV. Give me a Law & Order (any of the spinoffs or the original), CSI Miami, The Closer or Criminal Minds marathon and I can happily sew away for hours...especially if I've laid in a supply of Mountain Dew to sip on while I watch and sew! So this year for Christmas, my daughters all gave me Amazon gift cards which I applied to the purchase of this:

It showed up this evening and now I don't want to go to work tomorrow. I want to sit in the sewing cave, slip in disc after disc and watch and sew. Seriously people, I have issues! *LOL*

...as always, more later!

Lavender and Gray Skies Jacket - Part 2

2012-01-10T00:01:00.000-05:00

Okay I'm officially back on track...*grateful sigh* My solution worked. So what was the solution? Well the "all sweater" arms was too great a contrast. One solution would have been to find more ways to incorporate the sweater knit into the jacket so the knit sleeves wouldn't look so extreme. But that wasn't the path I wanted to take with this jacket. Instead, I decided to use the small piece of felted fabric I had left to make the sleeves.

I folded the sleeve pattern in the center to take some of the width out. I cut out two sleeves from the remaining piece of fabric. Then I folded the cut sleeves in half and cut them into two pieces. I pressed the knit sleeves that I had removed from the jacket and cut the center out of them, stitching the new smaller centers onto the two each side of the sleeve. Here is how the sleeves looked flat:

With much trepidation, I pinned the sleeves into the jacket. I wish there was a way to add a drumroll here...*LOL*...but it worked. Here are a few "not so great" in progress pictures to show how the sleeve now looks in the jacket...

A bad mirror shot

A hanging shot

A view of the sleeve on my arm

Laying on the cutting table with the buttons

I'm thinking I need to invest in a new camera and move away from the point and shoot, but I digress. Because the jacket will work. It will fit around my body and will play well with the coordinates. But here's the thing...I don't think the jacket is me. Seriously. I know all of this drama and now I'm not sure. I don't know about you but there are two sides to me...my business side and my creative side...and I'm always trying to jive the two sides of me. My creative side loves this jacket...the manipulation of the fabric...adding the knit fabric...making something different and unusual. However, my business side likes a cleaner, linear line, something serious and same...this jacket ain't that!

So I will finish the jacket. And I will make the coordinating pieces because I want them. But right now, I don't honestly know if I will wear the jacket often...then again, I don't wear many jackets often...*sigh* Maybe that's why I'm on the continual quest to find "the perfect" jacket. Something I can make multiple times, have it work in all situations and feel comfortable in. I even wonder if that mythical, perfect jacket exists?

Anyway...this is my journey. This is where I'm at in the making of this jacket and wardrobe. This is my thought process as I work through the construction of these pieces...

...as always, more later!

Bits and Pieces from the Sewing Cave

2012-01-08T19:30:00.000-05:00

These are just some thoughts that rambled through my brain as I sewed these last few days:

1. I am enamored of my straight stitch foot. I put it on to sew the Christening Gown and haven't taken it off my sewing machine since it gives me such control over my stitching. I usually use my wide/zig-zag foot but lately this one has been working so well for me. So how about you? What is your favorite sewing foot?

2. I'm sewing along and I notice that something isn't right with my serger...it's ruffling the edges. At first I think it's the fabric because it is kinda loosey goosey but then after further inspection I realize that one of the settings has been changed on it. I've also done this with my sewing machine and was wondering if this happens to anyone else?

3. I love the fact that I can walk around my sewing table now. In my old apartment one main section was pushed up against a wall. In my new sewing room only one of the smaller sides is pushed up against the bins. It is pretty awesome to walk around all three sides of the table.

4. Am I the only one that has such a feeling of calm and peacefulness when they spend considerable time in their sewing room? I love how those feelings balance out the hecticness of my life.

5. The front of me is bigger than the back of me so now I use a larger front piece to make my dresses and skirts fit. Does anyone else do that? Or am I the only one cheating like that!

6. Sometimes I think I'm the only one that uses my TNT so extensively. I read other blogs or the sewing boards and people sew from patterns and I tend to sew from designs. I see a picture or a woman wearing something and I think I can make that. My first step use to be to find a pattern for the look. Lately my thought is to chop up my TNT patterns. It just makes me feel a little different and strange because it seems like everyone else can achieve those looks from patterns. Am I lazy? Do I have more imagination? Or are others just better at using and fitting patterns than I am? It makes me wonder...

7. I wish I sewed better! Seriously, I wish I was one of those sewists that did everything right and made these amazing garments because sometimes I feel like a rank amateur...*sigh*

8. Someone asked me in one of the earlier posts on my sewing room if I could tell them how I liked the floor after having living in my sewing room for a minute. Well I can tell you that the floor is no colder than any other and with the heater it is very comfortable. I love being able to sweep up scraps and pins so easily.

9. Which brings me to the fact that I love my sewing room/cave! I love having a dedicated place to sew. It has everything I need to make me happy creatively...and as soon as I get the fabric & books situated it will be perfect...well perfect to me!

10. Denise, the owner of The Blue Gardenia Vintage Pattern Site is having a sale. The details are below:

Take the left turn at ABQ and save, save, save on lovely patterns!

You're wondering— I know you are — about our annual end-of-year sale. The bad news: We didn't have it. We were in Prescott packing. We were. Box after box.

But.

There is good news: The Blue Gardenia is having a Take the Left Turn at Albuquerque sale instead. So here's the scoop:

Buy 3 or more patterns, get 35% off your total sale!
Sale prices good now through
11:59 p.m. PST Sunday, January 15, 2012
Payment must be received by Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Shop Early for Best Selection!

Happy New Year!

...I'm working on finishing up my Lavender & Gray Skies jacket, I think my solution is working, which is making me happy...

...as always, more later!

Lavender 'n Gray Skies Jacket

2012-01-07T23:25:00.000-05:00

I think I'm going to stay away from felted wool jersey because I don't think it likes me anymore. I've made several successful garments from it but lately the last few things I've made just haven't worked.

I'm saying all this to say that my lavender 'n gray skies jacket looks like cr*p! How did this come to be? Well I ran short of fabric even though I purchased 4 yards. I thought I bought more than enough to felt but obviously it shrank more than I thought both width and lengthwise. And then in a fit of inspired stupidity, I added the sweater knit to the jacket as sleeves thinking I would emulate this Valentino jacket.

www.style.com

Since this is the basis for my wardrobe, I started to get a little hysterical at the thought that I wouldn't have the main piece of the collection. And that's when from the back of my brain I pulled the remembrance of the Valentino mixed fabrication jackets. Now in Valentino's collection the sweater knit used for the sleeves matches the jacket fabric exactly...but since I don't have the Valentino designers fabric budget or influence, I used the heather violet sweater fabric that I'd bought for the cardigan.

Sweater Knit from Fabric Mart

At first I was concerned because it is darker than the base fabric but then I thought that it would be funky and fun so I went ahead and cut out the sleeves and sewed them onto the jacket. Well ain't funky and it ain't fun! It just looks crappy!

So I have to come up with a new solution. And since I had to go into work today for a couple of hours, I've only gotten as far as picking this all apart so that I have the base of the jacket and nuthin else. Anyway, I think I have a solution. I'll work on it tomorrow and hopefully this will solve the problem. If not I really don't know what I'm going to do...*sigh*...because Fabric Mart has no more of the lavender wool jersey.

...as always, more later

Sewing Designer Inspired Garments

2012-01-06T00:01:00.002-05:00

Robin left this comment on my Erdem Inspired Dress post:
"After seeing your dress, it motivated me to learn more about Erdem. Honestly looking at the runway models does very little for me. It takes too much imagination for me to see how I might make it wearable for my age, my figure and my lifestyle."

Robin I'm sure you won't mind that I pulled your comment to use as the basis for this post because I think it will help not only you but other sewists.

First let me state that I love designer fashions. I spend a lot of time on style.com, net-a-porter and other designer sites (especially the iPad apps, which I love!) peeking at details, checking out colors and silhouettes. So here are my five rules/guidelines for deciding if I can "interpret" a designer look.

1. I always look at silhouettes and never at the models.
Come on let's face it, I look nothing like the models used in publications or on internet sites. But I'm not looking at them. I'm looking at the silhouette of the dress, just like you look at the line drawings on patterns, each garment has a line drawing (silhouette) and that's how I choose if I can interpret a garment.

2. I know which silhouettes work on my body.
And here is the catch...the thing that I believe trips up a lot of sewists...knowing exactly what styles work for them. And that's really important...see I know that I don't look good in waisted dresses. I love those styles but if I want to look pudgy, dowdy and fat, I should make one of those type dresses. I like long lines. I think that they make me look slimmer, taller and more attractive. So the first thing I look for is that long clean line.

3. Color and pattern
I'm always looking for an interesting play of pattern and color. The reason the Erdem line caught my eye is because he is doing a really fresh take on the play of color, print and pattern. I honestly did not care for his Fall 2011 line...it looked really grim and Morticia Adams dark to me. However, his Resort and Spring Lines for 2012 have a lot of color and pattern. But this is what I like. Have you determined what you like? What colors make you feel good when you're wearing them? What colors get you the most compliments? What styles are guaranteed to get someone to say, "Boy are you looking good today?"

4. Does it work for my lifestyle?
I think if you have a defined dress code for your job it's easier to pick garments. But, it is also easy to fall into the bland trap which is dressing like everyone else in dull colors. I know what the requirements for my job environment are and I try to stay within those guidelines but I need color so I try to add it in my jewelry, shoes and certain pieces (top, skirt, dress).

Now to me, working in a business casual work environment, gets a little dicey because I think you need to determine what you want to look like and that's where it gets a little confusing. At my last job I worked in a business casual atmosphere and I had to chose a path that wasn't very casual but not very professional. I solved this by wearing alot of twinsets with skirts and pants with the occasional dress. I never wore a suit. The minute you showed up in a suit, you were asked if you were interviewing.

Also you need to determine what is comfortable to wear on your job. I can't imagine wearing a suit as say a kindergarten teacher. I would think it would cause a distance between you and the children. Any job where you have to wear a uniform (nurse, policewoman, contractor, postal person etc.) means that you are only determining what to wear when you're not working. A SAHM has a different need than someone going out to work and I think you have a degree of freedom that I don't have.

I'm saying all of this to say that you have to determine what clothing is comfortable and appropriate for your job or lifestyles. Now there are books on this subject, magazine articles, people who have "the credentials" to tell you how to do this. I'm just saying that this is a journey...just like learning to sew is one...so is determining what to wear.

5. Is it fresh and new and does it touch something in my creative spirit.
That is a huge thing for me when picking which designer gear to interpret. I also keep a large file on my computer and with magazine clippings to inspire me. I'm looking to the fresh, the new, the different that inspires me and makes me want to leave work and sew. It's just something that grabs me. And if you like it, copy it! That's pretty much my motto!

Now these are all my opinions. This is what works for me. This may or may not work for you and please feel free to ignore me. But I thought I would respond to Robin's comment and tell everyone that first and foremost, I don't look at the models. They are a non-issue for me! *LOL* They really are just the hangers wearing the clothing, sad to say.

And Valerie C., feel free to copy anything you see on my blog. I'm honored that you like what I make enough to want your own copy of it. Finally to my plus size sistahs, having the ability to sew means that we can have alot more than what is available in RTW and even in pattern sizes. If you have a few TNT patterns and an adventurous spirit, you can cut them up and get the clothing you want.

...as always, more later!

Lavender 'n Gray Skies Wardrobe

2012-01-05T00:01:00.001-05:00

I've wanted to make these wardrobe pieces for the last couple of months. I haven't sewn a wardrobe (series of garments) in awhile and I've been jonesing to do some coordinated sewing. So I've pulled together all of the pieces ~ patterns, fabrics and notions, for the wardrobe.

First the wardrobe pieces:
1. Jacket from Butterick 6002
This is the foundation piece of the collection. The jacket will be made from the felted/fulled lavender wool jersey.

2. TNT straight skirt
3. TNT lined pants
4. TNT sheath dress
These pieces will be made from the gray tropical wool from Fabric Mart and have all made appearances here before. They are staples in my wardrobe.

5. White shirt
I've decided to go with a non-traditional white shirt. I've always wanted to use the Khaliah Ali Simplicity 2566 pattern and the shirt included in this pattern does have a collar but its a pull-on...not a button down shirt. It also comes with a tie which I will make because I like both of these features...so that's my non-traditional white shirt.

6. Cardigan from out-of-print (OOP) Burda 8869
Burda 8869 is my go to cardigan pattern. It always works. I just have to determine the right length for this collection. I want the cardigan to work with not only the dress and skirt but the pants too...so I'm thinking this will be a little longer especially since the jacket is on the short side which will give some balance to the collection.

It's a pretty basic wardrobe but it's perfect for work. Here's a look at the fabric combination:

I had the same button on hand in two sizes so that the cardigan and jacket will have matching buttons. I really like that the buttons will tie the pieces together. I've already made the pattern alterations to the jacket pattern pieces and have begun working on it's construction.

Finally a few answers to comments left on the Erdem Inspired Dress Final:
1. Glad everyone liked the shoes. I worried that they might be a bit much with the dress but I really liked the look...especially now that I'm on the second floor and not the main floor of our office...I can look a little more fashion forward.

2. No, I didn't wear the dress on Tuesday. It was wayyyyy to cold in NYC to wear a dress.

3. These shoes are old. The brand is Bandalino and I have no idea where I purchased them from...sorry!

4. The construction of the dress really wasn't that fast. I started it last week (Tuesday or Wednesday evening) and I finished it up on Sunday. I just had to wait for a photographer to post pictures of it.

5. Dharma asked about Julie's Swatch Club at Fabric Mart. I haven't been a member of the swatch club in at least 3 years because they have such great fabric on the website that I felt I didn't need it. So I'm sorry but I have no information on the Swatch Club. However, the club is being discussed on Stitcher's Guild in the Fabric Mart 3 folder. You may find more information there.

Finally thanks for all of your kind compliments on the dress...they are truly appreciated!

...as always more later!

Designer Inspired - Erdem Interpretation Final

2012-01-03T00:01:00.000-05:00

Technically this is an easy sew...I mean I started this journey with my TNT pattern...so first some pictures:

front view

back/side view

back view

another front view with the 3/4 length sleeves

Pattern:
TNT Dress

Fabric:
1 yard wool black/white houndstooth fabric from Mood
1.5 yard ltwt. black wool crepe from Fabric Mart

Notions:
ambience rayon lining
22" black invisible zipper
2 yards of 1" black lace
2 yards of black seam binding

Pattern Alterations:
I really liked the pleats in the neckline of the designer original. So to get them, I altered my TNT dress pattern front by simply adding some space to the neckline and two pleats to the side front. I went looking for the "how-to" amongst my sewing library, but since it's still packed in totes, I honestly didn't look that hard and winged it for most of the pattern alteration. That's my disclaimer so that you know that no real technical skill was used to make the alteration.

I added four lines at the corner of the neckline. Each line was 1" apart and 3.25" long. I chose this spot based upon the placement on the designer original.

After I made the changes to my pattern, I pinched it together to make sure that it worked. I was a little concerned that when I laid the pattern piece on the fold that I was gaining about an inch in the abdomen area but I thought that the dress was suppose to be shift like anyway so hopefully it wouldn't matter. If there ended up being too much fabric in the front, I would just make larger side seams. I know so totally un-technical right? But you know the cook who doesn't use the recipe or who doesn't look at the measurements but the dish turns out great...well, that's me when it comes to sewing sometimes. Not all the time, but sometimes.

Luckily my alterations worked but it did alter the neckline of my dress pattern making the fit a little closer to my neck...which was fine because the altered neckline looks more like the designer original.

The 3/4 length sleeves are one of the sleeve options I've developed for my TNT dress over the course of the dress' history. The 3/4 length sleeves are really the perfect finishing touch for this dress.

Construction:
I've made this dress a time or two before so there are no new construction details. However, the hand of the fabric did require some special treatment.

*I added a 5/8" strip of knit fusible interfacing to the herringbone wool's neckline because it was very soft and this added some stability to the neckline.

*I also added the same fusible interfacing to the back neckline of the dress after putting the invisible zipper in because the back was a tad wobbly. I probably should have interfaced the center back seam too but it worked out okay after some steaming and sewing the lining down.

*The tucks are just basted in. I considered stitching them down but decided against it. The released tucks are more like the designer original.

*I also stabilized the shoulder seams with stay tape when I stitched them together. I wanted to make sure that they didn't stretch out since both fabrics were a bit unstable.

*The dress is lined and has a lace hem...my standard lining hem treatment.

*The sleeves are also lined because the black wool crepe is a little lightweight. I don't normally line my sleeves but as I stated before I want to wear this dress without a jacket or cardigan.

*I used what I call the Nancy's Notions method of lining sleeves. Cut the sleeve lining an inch shorter than the fashion fabric. Add a strip of interfacing to the sleeve hemline. Stitch the lining and fashion fabric together. Press the seam open. Fold the sleeve right sides together and stitch from the top to the bottom. Press the seam open. Then fold the lining inside and baste the two pieces together at the sleeve cap. Give one more good press to the sleeve and insert it into the dress.

Those were the most interesting construction highlights...it is a TNT pattern after all! But I'm thrilled with the outcome. One final thing...the net-a-porter dress cost $1,390 and my version cost $49.98 ($35 for fabric, $13.96 for lining, $1.02 for notions).

So my first garment for 2012 is done and even though it didn't appear on my sewing list, I'm glad I was flexible enough to go with the flow. Next up will be my Lavender & Grey pieces...

Parting Shot:
These are the shoes I will wear with the dress in homage to the original designer look...

...as always, more later!

Designer Inspired - An Erdem Interpretation

2012-01-02T00:01:00.000-05:00

Prologue:
I was on Vogue.com last week when I spied Erdem's Pre-Fall Collection 2012 and I fell in love. I loved his mix of prints and patterns but the dress that really caught my eye was the Jane Houndstooth & Crepe Dress from his Resort 2012 Collection. I'd never really looked at his line before even though I'd seen it in the list of designers at style.com. So this led to a little research. I found out that he is a young designer working out of London. I also went back through several of his collections on style.com to get a handle on what he liked to design and I loved his silhouettes. I also viewed his pieces on a few RTW sites and was thrilled when I found several on net-a-porter because then you can see the garments walked on a model.

So the Jane Dress, really caught my eye...so much so that I was drooling on my keyboard at work! *LOL* I mean this is the perfect silhouette for my body. It is made up in my favorite fabric of the moment, Houndstooth, and it would work for my professional work life. My only concern is that the back of the dress is a white crepe. That's just not happening in my life so I envisioned the dress with a few changes.

Day One - Finding the Fabric
After becoming obsessed with this awesome dress, I came home and did something I swore I wouldn't do any time soon, I opened the fabric bins and dug through them until I found the black and white Houndstooth that I purchased from Mood and the black wool crepe that is a staple in my fabric collection. Because like I stated before, the white back is not working for me...however...a black wool crepe back would be perfect!

I also decided to add a center back seam and an invisible zipper for ease of getting into and out of the dress. Finally some 3/4 length sleeves from the black wool crepe will also be added to the dress so that I can wear the dress as is...without sleeves means that I would need to wear a jacket or cardigan with it...which in my opinion would detract from the dress.

Day Two - Pretreating the Fabric
By choosing to use the wool crepe I knew I would need to pretreat the fabric to prevent all of my hard work from shrinking...so since I'm impatient and I was pretreating after work, I used Pam Erny's method (which I can't locate on her blog, Off the Cuff, right now...so if someone has the link would you kindly leave it in the comments section!) Basically Pam's method is to take a damp white towel and place it alongwith the fabric in the dryer and pretreat the fabric. So this is what I did, white towel, fabric with serged ends in the dryer for 40 minutes.

Then I set up my ironing board with the blanket beneath it (to cover the floor) and steamed the heck out of both sides of the fabric.

The machine prep was next...making a couple of black bobbins and changing the thread on my serger and that's where I left the project for the evening. Since I've been working on this in the evenings after work during Christmas week, the dress has taken shape slowly. Again something unusual for me, I usually wait for the weekend to sew but I just couldn't wait for this one...it was consuming me creatively!

Stay tuned for more on this dress...

Happy New Year!

2012-01-01T00:01:00.000-05:00

Wishing you and your family

a very happy, healthy and prosperous New Year!

Cleansing my palette...

2011-12-31T00:01:00.000-05:00

For the last couple of years I've written an inspirational type post for my last post of the year. However, this year I want to talk about something that's a little more personal to me. I've been blogging for six years and 2012 will make my seventh year. For the most part, I've enjoyed blogging. I've loved meeting new sewing friends, the fabric buying sprees, learning new techniques, and documenting my sewing journey.

However, earlier this year I almost gave up on blogging. Why do you ask? Because for a minute blogging wasn't fun. It was stressful and obligatory but mostly I felt like I was dodging a bullet...no matter what I said or what I wrote, there were those who were critical and mean...and I couldn't understand why.

I write and maintain my blog for several reasons and I attempt to be honest about my sewing abilities (both good and bad), who I am and what I believe. I also try to keep my opinions strictly limited to my blog UNLESS I'm asked to provide an opinion elsewhere or it's a friend's blog who respects my opinion.

Here are a few things I will admit to:
1. I am a comment ho.
I love getting comments. And right here and now I want to stop and thank each and every person who has left a comment on my blog. I've loved reading them, laughing at some of them (Rachelle), shaking my head in disagreement with others, rethinking some things because of an interesting point of view and generally just being appreciative that you stopped and took the time to leave a comment...especially when I know that you've clicked out of Google Reader to do so.

2. I like visitors to my blog.
It's really encouraging that others like to come by and see what I'm making or talk to me about sewing. However, I don't think of myself as a blogging superstar...I'm just a plus size chick that likes to sew and avidly wants to encourage others to pursue our artform.

3. Yes, I do think that sewing is an artform.
An artform, a craft, a talent...yes, I do wholeheartedly believe that. It's why I like the term "sewists" which is a mash up of the words sewing & artist. I believe it encompasses all of what we are in the sewing world.

4. I do believe in experience...
Earlier this year I came under fire because I believe that experience is crucial to a new sewist's sewing journey. To me experience isn't a dirty word...it just shows that you are taking the time to invest in your craft.

5. I do believe in enthusiasm...
No enthusiasm, no conviction, no devotion, no exhilaration or passion equals no desire to continue to sew. So enthusiasm is a must and I welcome enthusiasm for our craft from all sewists whether newbies, advanced beginners, intermediates or advanced sewists.

6. I would never deliberately do anything to hurt or defame another sewist.
We are all an important part of the sewing/blogging community. We each have a point of view and a place to stand in that community and we all appeal to different sectors of it. That's what makes us a community. And our community is full of different stratas/layers with a little something for everyone. I love that and see no need to denigrate another because they serve a different segment of our community.

7. I'm a plus size chick and that ain't changing no time soon.
I love my full breasts, big behind and bodacious arms. However, I will admit that from time to time I struggle with the size of my abdomen and that my ankles seem to swell for no particular reason which bothers me...  But on the whole I love me and I blog from the prospective of a plus size chick who has to dress and go out and work in a professional workplace. I can only be me.

8. I'm a fabricaholic.
Buying fabric makes me happy, encourages my creative process and inspires me. I fully understand that others do not share my need to possess as much fabric as I can afford and squeeze into my sewing room and I respect that. I, however, will be leaving an enormous amount of unsewn fabric for my daughters to dispose of. I hope that they laugh, cry and curse me out as they have to deal with it but mostly I hope they remember fondly my love of my craft and how I adored collecting each piece. So if obvious fabric hoarding upsets you...maybe and I suggest this with great kindness you should stop reading my blog...*smile*...because I AM A FABRICAHOLIC.

9. I'm opinionated
Especially about sewing...I want to encourage others to love sewing as much as I do. I want others to find and enjoy the creative freedom that sewing provides me. Yet on the other hand, there are times when an experience or an incident upsets or concerns me and HERE on my own blog, I want to discuss it. I'm sure that this honesty is unappealing to some but here I'm allowed to have my say. I think that with six years of posts, a multitude of garments and much money, time and effort spent promoting and creating in this artform, that I have provided a basis for my opinions.

10. I'm not going anywhere...
I love to sew. I love blogging. I love encouraging others to sew. I love sharing a new pattern, piece of fabric, sewing blogger, sewing book or magazine, sew-along, basically anything related to sewing. And after finally getting over myself, I realize that what is most important to me is the sewing journey...so I will be documenting mine for some time to come.

Now here is the important part...if you don't like my opinions, my use of the word "kewl" or "feening", my fabric addiction, my plus size figure, my experience, the fact that I'm a comment ho or that others like to follow along as I continue to grow in my craft...it's okay. You don't have to visit...you don't have to like me...you can even think that I'm a fool and disillusioned...it's totally okay because I'm not going anywhere. This is me, this is where I live and this is how I sew.

I've pondered long and hard about whether or not to write this post since everything stays in cyperspace forever...and I can actually say that it's been a long time coming. I've waited until I was no longer emotional about the incidents that have occurred during the year to have my say because I wanted to address them from a point of view that was practical and encouraging...than from the viewpoint of being hurt and bitter.

I am closing the comments section to this post and am humbly asking that you do not post comments/opinions/support to any of the other posts because I'm looking for none of those things. In this instance, I have put my comment ho self in a drawer.

Instead, I hope that you read this, smile and understand or disagree and walk away (even if you never visit again) realizing that I'm just having my say, cleansing my palette and moving into 2012 leaving this behind. I hope that you will continue to journey with me into 2012 and if so...

...as always, more later!

Year End Wrap Up for 2011

2011-12-30T00:01:00.000-05:00

It's nice to take a look back at what you've sewn because it gives you an idea of what you've made and helps you plan what to sew for the new year. I had one specific goal this year...to sew more garments from purchased patterns instead of using just my TNT patterns. I think I successfully completed this goal since I used 12 new patterns this year.

However, there were two sew-alongs that I joined which I did not complete. The first was the Jacket a Month sew-along on Stitcher's Guild. The sew-along was to encourage you to construct one jacket a month. I was pretty fired up to sew a jacket a month but stalled on my first one and only ended up with four completed. While not a total failure, I didn't complete the task.

The second sew-along that I entered was the 6pack Autumn wardrobe sew-along again on Stitcher's Guild...and again I did not finish it. I picked out the patterns and fabrics, made up a great storyboard and even made a folder in my flickr account for the wardrobe...and then nuthin'. Well that's not actually true, I came up with another idea and off I merrily went down another sewing path never looking back to start the 6pack wardrobe.

That did not stop me from completing 40.5 pieces of clothing this year. This breaks down to 26.5 dresses, 9 skirts, 4 jackets and a pair of pants. Until I tabulated this I didn't realize that I hadn't made a single top this year. Besides my TNT patterns, the pattern I used most this year was Vogue 1250.

I made this dress 6 times and I really would like to make a winter version with sleeves which was all the rage on PR. Speaking of PR, there were 62 versions (and counting!) made and reviewed. It was "The Dress of the Year" as far as I'm concerned because it fit and flattered so many different shapes!

I also did some sewing that wasn't for me, specifically The Christening Gown and the Christmas scarves.

There were three other projects that stood out this year...

1. The Versace Inspired Dress

This was a project that enveloped most of the month of February. I saw the original dress in InStyle Magazine on the way to the Dominican Republic and came home with a desire to make my own version that could be worn to work. Everything clicked for me with this project and it was a journey but I was thrilled with the outcome.

2. The Rachel Skirt & Rachel Dress

These pieces were named after the designer Rachel Comey. Originally I made the skirt from Vogue 1247 because I loved the hidden pockets. The skirt coupled with a lace cardigan made a great work outfit. So when I saw a woman wearing a dress that looked similar to my Rachel skirt, I realized that I could have a dress using the same kewl pockets.

This was my second project of the year because it took some pattern work to get the dress I desired. However, everything worked and I loved my dress...so much so that it is one of my Top 5 Favorite Dresses of 2011.

3. The Designer Inspired Dresses Collection

For my September Sewcation, I got this idea to make several interpretations of the designer dresses I was seeing everywhere. I made three during my sewcation and another shortly afterwards. I still have two on my "to sew" list and hopefully they will make it off my list and into my closet in the near future!

I sewed quite a bit less than I usually do this year and I can chalk it up to one major life event, the move and new sewing room set up in October. While it was a traumatic event (when isn't a move traumatic?), I did end up with a new sewing room/cave that I'm coming to adore. It really is wonderful to have a room to sew in instead of sharing my bedroom with my sewing machines.

Looking towards 2012...
Sewing in 2012 will involve not only garments for myself...hey, I already have a list...but also sewing for grandchildren. My oldest daughter is pregnant and hopefully will have a little girl to add to the other grandchildren. So sewing for grandkids will be a major part of my 2012 sewing.

I also want to continue using more of my purchased patterns. Not that I'm going to kick my TNT patterns to the curb (like so not happening! *LOL*) but I have a ton of patterns and I really want to take their journeys. You never know, I might end up with another V1250!

Finally a few garments from the Colette Sewing book, maybe one or two of my vintage 60s patterns and a coat...I really would like to make a coat this year...these are just a few of my sewing goals.

I hope that as we approach 2012, you too will enter it with the love and joy of sewing high on your list. Hopefully you will stay tuned for whatever sewing adventures I have this year...because I will definitely be following along with other sewists in the sewing/blogging community.

...as always, more later!

Interrrupting our regularly scheduled programming...

2011-12-28T12:24:00.004-05:00

I'm sorry I need to interrupt our regularly scheduled programming...because Fabric Mart is having an AWESOME Sale that is TODAY ONLY!!!

BTW, if anything is already 20 or 50% off, this discount applies on top of that! So what are you waiting for?! You know you got a little Christmas cash...go, shop and spread the goodness around!

Now back to our regular programming....

26.5 Dresses in 2011 (Pic Heavy)

2011-12-28T09:37:00.000-05:00

Do you remember the movie "27 Dresses" starring Katherine Heigl? I kinda feel that way writing a title 26.5 dresses in 2011. Yes, I made 26 dresses this year. I do have a dress that just needs sleeves for it to be complete which is why I called it a half. I truly believe that it will be finished soon...if not before the last day of the year...so I've included it.

As sewists, we all have garments that we prefer not only sewing but wearing, mine happens to be a dress. I'd rather wear a dress than anything else as proven by the fact that I've made 27 of them this year or a little more than two each month. So without further ado, here they are in chronological order...

The first dress of 2011 was:

The DVF Inspired Dress

2. Michael Kors Inspired Dress

I'd had this idea for a dress for quite some time and a lucky fabric buy brought it to fruition. However, I just recently updated it by removing the sleeves. They were a little tight and the dress wears fine as sleeveless with a cardigan.

3. The Versace Inspired Dress

This one was inspired by a magazine picture that I saw on the way to my corporate retreat. It was a pretty involved journey but such satisfying sewing and very rewarding.

4. Vogue 1250 - Version 1

When I first made used this pattern, I wrote in my review on PR that I probably wouldn't make it again...I went on to make it 5 more times! *LOL* This was the dress of the year for me!

5. Playing with a border print knit

This dress is made from my TNT dress pattern using a border print knit. It is the beginning of a lot of sewing with knits this year.

6. The second version of Vogue 1250

I got the knit fabric sewing bug and I altered the pattern pieces to have side seams, so I made it again!

7. 3x the charm

That's what I titled this third version of V1250. It was made to wear to church on Mother's Day.

8. A Knit Dress Palooza

Yeah I was on a roll...making knit dress after knit dress. This one was totally inspired by the fabric from Elliot Berman and made from my TNT dress pattern.

9. Butterick 5600

This dress was also inspired by a great piece of fabric from Elliot Berman. And even though it was an easy sew the dress has been worn only once because of bad button placement.

10. Christine Jonson's Princess Seam Dress

This was one of my top 5 dresses of 2011. Like I said I've admired CJ's patterns but never really thought they would work for me...this one proved me wrong and I will make it again!

11. Vogue 1250 in a border print

This is version #4 of Vogue 1250. I was seriously digging this pattern this year!

12. Polka Dot Madness

This dress is a Connie Crawford pattern ~ Butterick 5620. It didn't make up well and after two wearings it truly is a fail...but I love the polka dot border print fabric...*sigh*

13. A Little Bias

I really wanted a woven version of my favorite knit dress (V1250) so I chose Butterick 3195 an out of print pattern to use with a silk crepe and came up with this dress. It wore sooooooo well during the hot and humid days of summer.

14. Another Donna Karan stunner...

...or Vogue 1179. This is another knit dress that turned out to be a winner!

15. The Rachel Dress

Another dress that makes my Top 5. It is a mash-up of Vogue 1247 and my TNT dress pattern. I loved having the pockets in my dress, a really kewl feature!

16. A Linen Summer Shift

This is a casual summer shift from Butterick 5618 for summer weekend wear.

17. A Wearable Muslin

This dress was made from an ITY knit using an out of print Vogue 9245. I was on a roll making knit dresses. The final dress was pretty but didn't wear well...but I think that next summer I will wear it with different foundation garments to change the wearing issues that bugged me.

18. Vogue 1250 Maxi-mized

Version #5 of Vogue 1250 was a maxi version with an enhanced cowl neckline, it was a fantastic dress worn several times to weekend events.

19. Jason Wu Lace Inspired Dress

For my September Sewcation, I decided to sew Designer Inspired dresses. This was the first one of the series.

20. Heidi M. Inspired Dress

I saw this dress on The Selfish Seamstress's blog and immediately knew I wanted one. This one made my Top 5 dresses list too because it was just so kewl to wear!

21. Mixed Fabrications Dress inspired by Dries van Noten

Mixed Fabrications was big in Dries van Noten's Fall Collection for 2011. I loved what he did but need to corporatize it to wear to my job. This was my version of his mixed fabrications idea.

22. Fabric Inspired Dress

I was and still am in love with Salvatore Ferragamo's Fall Collection for 2011. So this dress is from my TNT pattern and totally inspired by the herringbone fabric used in the Ferragamo collection.

23. Another Vogue 9245

I made this up in a purple ponte knit and it just worked so well. Will definitely be making this one again!

24. Vogue 8764

I liked the empire waistline on this dress. Again I used a ponte knit for this dress especially since ponte knits have become my new fabric obsession.

25. A Vogue 1250 LBD

Yes, this was my 6th version of this dress pattern (and truly I want a 7th with long sleeves). The dress just works. It was the dress I wore to my job's Holiday Party!

26. Leather and Knit - McCalls 6395

Leather and fabric combinations were hot this fall. I combined some faux leather with ponte knit to make this dress. Another great transition dress!

Dress number 26.5:
Is McCalls 6460. The body of the dress is finished, it just needs sleeves. I need to finish it before the end of the year, I just don't know if I will.

So a recap:
~ I made quite a few dresses this year using knit fabrics. This is definitely a first for me.

~ I made Vogue 1250 six times...in a border print, maxi-mized, as a little black dress and I would like to make a 7th version in 2012.

~ I used ten new patterns from several different pattern companies including one independent pattern company.

~ Even though my TNT dress pattern was used in quite a few of these dresses, it wasn't used as much as in former years.

My top five dresses for this year are:
Vogue 1250, The Versace Inspired Dress, The CJ Princess Seam Dress, The Rachel Dress and the Heidi M. Inspiration Dress.

I know that dresses will feature predominantly in 2012 because there are three from McCalls Spring 2012 collection that I'm already drooling over. They are, McCalls 6504, McCalls 6506 and McCalls 6518.

...as always, more later!

Before and After

2011-12-27T14:36:00.001-05:00

I made this Michael Kors knock-off dress earlier this year. It was scrimped out of 2 yards of fabric and I really believe that I shorted the sleeves because they were always tight. However, when I went to put the dress on earlier this fall, the sleeves were just too dayum tight. Part of the problem was definitely the trim that I added to the sleeve's hemline and I guess the other part would be that my biceps have gained in bodaciousness.

Anywhoo, I decided to remove the sleeves...I mean it's a perfectly good dress that can be worn sleeveless with a cardigan.

So here is the before:

...and here is the after:

I simply removed the sleeves. Pressed down the 5/8" seam allowance, stitched it flat and then pressed it again. It has only slightly changed the look of the dress especially since I'd styled the dress before with a cardigan. But it will still be wearable and that's what's most important.

Finally, one of my Christmas gifts was an American Express Gift Certificate which I promptly took to Bed Bath & Beyond and bought a new Rowenta iron.

My old one was leaking and caused me much grief during the construction of the Christening Gown. I'm glad that I bought it because there is a vast difference in the amount of steam the new one is putting out versus the older one...and I never even noticed it!

Finally, it's the last week of 2011 so the next couple of posts will be my yearly wrap-ups before we barrel into 2012.

...as always, more later!

The Day After Christmas

2011-12-26T17:08:00.000-05:00

Several pics of Christmas Eve at my house:

The Little Prince opening a gift

My oldest daughter and my grandson

Ordered chaos in the gift giving

Christmas has come and gone. Gifts have been opened, children have been amazed and adults are relieved. I've eaten more good food than on Thanksgiving since I've been eating ALL weekend! I'm finally home in the sewing cave relaxing before I head back to work tomorrow.

I ended up making 10 scarves...and it's interesting...they were much better received at work than with my family. I remembered yet again why I don't sew for people! *LOL*

Anyway, here are several more versions of the scarves...

the brown velvet again with a purple & brown print

this one was passed from family member to family member before finding a home

After two days of Christmas festivities, I'm glad I'm off today relaxing in my sewing room. Even though I have to work for the rest of the week, it's abbreviated days...so I may get one more garment made before the end of the year or I may not!

...as always, more later!

Merry Christmas!

2011-12-25T00:01:00.000-05:00

It came upon a midnight clear,

That glorious song of old,

From angels bending near the earth,

To touch their harps of gold:

"Peace on earth, goodwill to men,

From heavens all gracious King!"

The world in solemn stillness lay

To hear the angels sing...

Wishing you and your family

A Very Merry Christmas!

Monday Evening Musings

2011-12-19T22:26:00.000-05:00

First, thanks for all of the compliments on the scarves. I know I've been doing a lot of sewing that isn't fashion related lately but it's all encouraging me to get back into the sewing mode I was in prior to the move. And truly I miss that...I really felt like I was firing on all of my creative cyclinders before I packed everything up and moved...

...and it hit me in the shower the other morning, I need to see my fabric. Part of my reluctance to unpack my fabric and put those closets together is that once again I won't be able to see my fabric. I know that I had it in a closet before but it was easy to open and purview the extent of my collection. My fabric inspired me. It encouraged me. It pushed my boundaries. Not being able to see it makes me feel imprisoned and all bottled up...so I've taken the closets back to Lowes.

Instead I'm buying shelves and I'm putting my fabric on them. I want to be able to easily access it. I want to know where it is when I think of it. But most importantly I want to see it. So somewhere in the next couple of months, I will be transferring the fabric from the bins to shelves and hanging a curtain system to cover them. Now I say somewhere in the next couple of months because there is some sewing I want to do...

This is the fabric I pulled from the collection to make my version of the Lanvin top and skirt. I picked this one because the black & white fits into my work environment and also because I liked the black fringe on the selvedge...

Now I won't have to make my own fringe, I can use the fringe from the fabric. This will be up right after the lilac and gray pieces...which have turned into a little wardrobe grouping because I now want to make a white shirt and a printed cardigan to go with the original pieces (jacket/skirt/dress/pants)...I know right! But wardrobe sewing is in my blood and I can't deny the process cause it's crying out to be made.

Finally I'm resurrecting a UFO. I started this jacket last January as part of the Jacket a Month sew-along on Stitchers Guild (of which I woefully only made 3 or 4 pieces!) but as it has hung for months, I realized that I really like it as a vest. So a vest it will become with a matching pair of pants and a bow-tie blouse.

These projects have me so energized now that I'm surprised I haven't tossed over the scarves in favor of one of them! *LOL* Actually I'm enjoying making the scarves...so I will get them finished up because I will have some good sewing time in the next couple of weeks and I mean to take full advantage of it!

...as always, more later!

The First of the Christmas Scarves

2011-12-18T22:15:00.000-05:00

I needed a few gifts to add to my daughter's presents, and a few gifts for the office. A couple of years ago, I gave scarves to friends and acquaintances that were well received. So this year when Fabric Mart had velvet on sale, I bought quite a few yards just for this purpose. After puttering around today, these are my first three:

I knew I wanted to make infinity scarves because I didn't want to deal with finishing the ends, adding fringe or beads like I've done in the past. However, I had no idea how to proceed. So I googled "sewing infinity scarves" and found this site. Which lead me to this post on Lazy Saturdays and one more on Make it or Love it.

Since I want to make 7 or 8 scarves, having another option was thrilling to me. I have to dig through the collection to find some flannel because I really want a couple of the scarf with the gathered insert. Anyway, once I'd figured out the dimensions I needed and how to assemble them, it was just a matter of choosing which fabric to begin with.

Here are the first three scarves:

This black one is using a fabric that I bought from Sawyer Brook. I thought it was a faux leather and SB calls it that but it isn't very faux leather like to me. I had no idea what to do with it but thought I would try it with a silky fabric (polka dot silk also from Sawyer Brook) back and I kinda like it.

The second one is from a blue tie-dyed velvet. This one is made totally from velvet and is a little thick. I won't be making a total velvet one again...

The third one is from a tan embossed velvet and some left over silk scraps. Several years ago Fabric Mart had Anna Sui silks on sale and I bought alot of it to be used for linings. This silk worked best with the velvet and is my favorite scarf so far.

So for dimensions...I used anything from 12 to 15 inches for width and 50 to 75 inches for length. The fashion fabric was cut in 2 pieces and seamed. Then the silk/lining fabric was cut to the same dimensions and seamed also. Finally both pieces were pinned right sides together and sewn. I pulled the tube right side out and pressed it. Then with the ends right sides together I pinned the edges leaving a slit open. On some of the scarves I added a sliver of fusible web and on others I hand stitched them closed.

There are a few more I want to make during the week. Now that I know what I'm doing and where I'm going, I will work on a few more of these during the week. I might even make one for myself!

...as always, more later!

The Last Fabric Purchase of 2011

2011-12-16T00:01:00.000-05:00

Yes, this is my last fabric purchase of 2011. It's the 16th of December. Christmas is in 9 days and after that it's Christmas Week and New Years Day 2012. I can guarantee you that there will be no more fabric purchases until the new year...like in 2 weeks! *LOL*

This is 5.5 yards of a grey/pewter tropical weight wool gabardine and 3 yards of a periwinkle blue tropical weight wool gabardine and I'm thrilled with both. This was purchased to go with the lavender felted wool jersey:

These aren't the heaviest weight wools but with a lining and some tights they will be fine...especially since I'm hot all the dayum time now! I really like the smooth hand of these gabs...much better in person than I even imagined...and they will be perfect for a pair of pants, a straight skirt and a sleeveless sheath from my TNT dress pattern. Good, solid work garments that will be well used.

Even though I'm chomping at the bit to start sewing for me, I will be making scarves this weekend. I need a few Christmas gifts for work and I can't go back in on Monday empty-handed.

BTW, I picked up a couple of Oliver + S dress patterns. I'm sure that next year there will be some little girl's dresses coming out of my sewing machine and I'm a little excited. It's been years (especially since my baby girl is now 22!) since I've made little girl's anything so I'm really looking forward to creating precious pieces.

...as always, more later!

(my youngest daughter in my sewing room)

It's Back!!!!!!

2011-12-14T00:01:00.000-05:00

Yes, it's been missing...kinda floating in and out when necessary...but can I tell you that the sewing mojo is BACK! And demanding to be fed! *LOL* I don't know about you but I can tell when mine is missing because when I'm in the middle of a meeting, I'm actually concentrating on the meeting instead of doodling on my notepad underneath the table...daydreaming of things I want to make. Or making a list and carting it around everywhere making notes on it.

So yes, I can't wait for this weekend to sew! Ohmygoodness, not since before the move have I had the urge this strong! I did end up buying the silver/pewter wool gabardine from Fabric Mart since the gabardines are 30% off. I went to find a picture but I guess someone else thought it was pretty too because it's all gone. The wool gabardines are 30% until tomorrow, btw! I'm sure this fabric will make great basic work pieces, as well as, work well with the lavender felted wool jersey jacket.

On another note, my January 2012 issue of Lucky arrived last night and this Lanvin outfit caught my eye:

I had to go and look it up on style.com because I couldn't find it on net-a-porter. It's from Lanvin's 2012 Resort collection. Here's how it's photographed on style.com:

I have several awesome tweeds on hand that are easily accessible. *LOL* I believe this outfit can be made using my TNT dress and skirt patterns. My interpretation of this outfit will have longer (3/4 length) sleeves and a longer skirt (thigh length is really not attractive on me!) I really want to make this up soon...so that it doesn't end up like my Salvatore Ferragamo obsession which got no further than the pattern making stage...*sigh*

Updated to add this picture from the Neiman Marcus site (thanks Liara for pointing this out!):

But my mojo is back so who knows what will come out of my sewing machine in the next couple of weeks! I mean Christmas is coming, which means less time at work and two 3-day weekends...hopefully that will add up to alot of sewing in my sewing cave! Enough daydreaming...this weekend it will be Christmas scarves and maybe if I'm industrious a little sewing for me too!

Next, Maria asked where I buy wool jersey online with international shipping. I bought this lavender wool jersey from Fabric Mart and they only ship to Canada. However, Gorgeous Fabrics does have some in several colors and they do ship internationally. Hope that helps!

Finally thank you so much to everyone who left a comment on the Christening Gown posts. I so appreciate all of the compliments because making the dress and jacket was truly a labor of love for an adorable little girl. I never had the opportunity to make my own daughters' outfits, they were all store bought, so it was a special treat to be allowed to make one for her...even if I did go overboard! *LOL*

...as always, more later!

I've Been Dreaming...

2011-12-13T00:01:00.000-05:00

Even though Christmas sewing is up next, I've been dreaming of what I want to sew after that. And believe it or not, it's not fancy outfits that I want to make but regular work pieces. I want a few new skirts, a vest/pants combo and to finish off the dress I was working on prior to the Christening Outfit (CO).

But what I want to make more than anything is a felted wool jersey jacket. In the midst of working on the CO, I bought a few yards of a lilac wool jersey. So I set about felting the fabric and this is the result:

I want to use this pattern for the jacket:

Butterick 6002 - is an out-of-print pattern from 1999.

This pattern has been in my collection for a long time and lately I've been dreaming of this jacket. So I'm definitely making my own version and soon.

Gray is a hot color for Fall 2011...and I've wanted some gray pieces (straight skirt, a pair of pants & a dress) with a lilac topper...for a while now. The choice is whether or not to paw through bins looking for a gray piece of fabric or to just buy another piece. I'm sure you know which way I'm leaning...*LOL*

Anyway, as soon as the scarves are done, the lilac jacket will be my next project...and I'll let you know if I succumbed and bought more fabric...

...as always, more later!

Christening Outfit Final

2011-12-11T22:05:00.000-05:00

Final pictures of the Christening Outfit are below:

dress and jacket

close-up of the bodice

bibs and ballet slippers

leather ballet slippers purchased from Macy's

Statistics:
Pattern:
Simplicity 7488 - Out of print Baby Gowns

Fabric:
2 yards rayon/silk satin
1.5 yards lace

Notions:
2 yards pearl piping
2 yards 1" lace
Cotton batiste for lining
2 large snaps

Construction:
I ended up not sewing the pearls to the empire bodice of the dress.

I ended up adding snaps to the back of the dress instead of the buttons and buttonholes. I just couldn't take more small sewing.

I hand-stitched the sleeves into the jacket. Again I just couldn't take trying to sew one small circle into another. So I used small stitches and stitched them together. It held just fine. I mean people use to hand sew garments all the time right?!

I didn't make a bonnet. Her mother decided that she would use a lace headband instead and it actually worked out really well.

I spent at least 20 hours on this outfit and it was worth it but I won't be making another one of these any time soon. *LOL* The pressure of making "the perfect dress" for such an important event is not how I like to sew. To me sewing is about relaxation and exploring my creativity and pushing the boundaries. This was pressure. I'm just glad that I was up to the task!

Next up is some scarves for Christmas gift giving...eventually I will get back to sewing for me...eventually!

...as always, more later!

More Sewing Room Additions

2011-12-10T10:47:00.001-05:00

As I get used to working in my new sewing room, I think of or find things that I would like a different way. Some fixes have been to simply move some things around and others are major like the five boxes of cabinets that are sitting in the garage waiting to be assembled.

Lately I've realized that I wanted more light. I primarily sew after dark and late into the evening ~ even on weekends I seem to sew best at night...less distractions. And the light set-up that I had in my bedroom doesn't work in the sewing room (or cave as I've come to think of it lately!) So during the Thanksgiving Weekend, when every retail organization in the United States ran insane sales on things, I went looking for Ott-Lites on sale, online.

To my amazement, I found the "dreaded" JoAnn's had them on-sale for 50% off online and since I didn't have to venture into one of their stores or deal with their sales associates, I bought them. Seriously, they were 1/2 off which made a $150 light - $75 with FREE SHIPPING! Their shipping is SLOW and the lights arrived just this week...but having this much light was worth the wait.

There is now a desktop Ott Lite behind my sewing machine:

...and one over the ironing board. I love that it clips to the bookcase and shines down over the ironing board...just love this! *smile*

The other thing that I added to the basement was a little heater. Some days there is a slight chill in the basement (even though it's heated) and I only expect it to get colder as the earth starts to harden and freeze. I bought this during a trip to Lowe's...

...can I say that I've been to Lowe's more in the last two months than I've been in my entire life! Ah, the joys of apartment living when you called the super to fix stuff!

Anyhoo, I'm really happy with the new additions and if you're wondering about those boxes sitting in the garage...*sigh*...I'm just too overwhelmed to pull them out and build them because it means resorting my fabric collection and I just don't have the wherewithal to do it now. I'm hoping that during the Christmas break, I'll be motivated...we'll see! Later rather than sooner (LOL!) you'll see a post about my new fabric closets!

Pictures of the finished Christening Outfit later...I have a bonnet and bib to make since the pieces are being picked up this evening instead of last night! Yes!

...as always, more later!

The Christening Jacket - so far...

2011-12-05T23:00:00.000-05:00

I think I've gone overboard because this is turning into a little Princess' dress...but here is the jacket so far...

The jacket is made from the rayon/silk satin with the lace on top. My favorite part of the jacket and the dress is the pearl piping trim which came from my notions stash.

The jacket still needs sleeves. I need to make a bonnet. The string of pearls need to be hand stitched to the bodice of the gown...and the buttonholes completed. I have to deliver it to the baby's mother on Friday.

Once these final details are completed, I may post more details, or I may not! *smile* I've still got Christmas scarves to sew and two weekends before Christmas, so I need to hop to it!

...and I will have to ask the baby's mother if I can post pictures of her daughter in the outfit...so there may only be pictures of the finished outfit...

...as always, more later!

The Christening Gown almost done

2011-12-04T20:03:00.001-05:00

The gown is all done but the hand stitching and the buttonholes. I just can't handle any more little openings this evening...will finish up the hand stitching during the week. First a picture...

Next some stats...

Pattern:
Simplicity 7488 - Out of print Christening Gown called "Design Your Own"

Fabric:
1.5 yards rayon/silk satin from Moods
1 yard cotton batiste from the lining stash
1/4 yard lace from Moods

Notions:
1/4 yard pearl piping
1/2 yard single pearl trim
2 yards 1" lace
(again all of these are from my notions stash)

Equipment:
70H Universal Needle
Single Stitch Foot for my sewing machine

I relied heavily upon Sandra Betzina's book, "Fabric Savvy" to start this project. Every question I had about which needle, stitch width and how to pre-treat the fabric was answered in this book.

Construction:
It wasn't really a difficult gown to construct. It was more the sewing in miniature that got me. Those little sleeve openings ~ shew! The other thing that annoyed me was that the pattern instructions don't tell you to line the gown. However, the pattern pieces say to cut fashion fabric, as well as lining fabric.

Of course, the construction process was lengthened because I added lace to the bodice pieces...

...pearl piping to the neckline of the dress and lace to the hem of the cotton batiste lining.

I really wanted this to be a beautiful dress for a very special little girl. I'm now working on the jacket to complete the outfit and will have pics of the finished pieces later this week with the most awesome little leather ballet slippers that I found at Macy's yesterday.

...as always, more later!

Tales from NYC and a new sewing project

2011-12-02T17:30:00.000-05:00

Yesterday after work I ran to Moods to pick up some fabric for a Christening Gown that I'm making this weekend (there will be more details about that later) and while I was waiting for the subway I saw two separate acts of kindness that really touched me.

The first one was when a train pulled into the station and an older man got off the train clearly inebriated, red faced, lurching from side to side, muttering to himself in just a t-shirt and jeans. As one of the women standing on the subway platform, I along with several others, moved to the side to allow him to pass. Then just before the train was getting ready to leave the station, a young man gets off the train with a coat. He follows the man and gives him his jacket. As he hands the man his jacket, the train departs the station. The inebriated man was so thankful that he hugged the young man, but it was so clearly an act of kindness on the young man's part because he went out of his way to make sure the man was okay.

Then an older woman slowly made her way down the platform and looked at the benches obviously looking for a seat which were all taken...but a young woman saw her and offered her the seat. A little more common place than the young man who gave the older man his jacket but still the kindnesses moved me so much. I don't know if it's the season or the fact that sometimes we human beings can be very kind, but those two occurrences occupied my thoughts as I made my way to Moods.

I specifically picked Moods to shop at because my Living Social discounts were burning a hole in my pocket. Thanks Elizabeth for sending me your link, and thanks to the three people who used the link I sent them because my second discount was free.

In 35 minutes I had the following:

4 yards of an ivory rayon/silk satin

2 yards of an ivory lace

2 yards of a 1" satin ribbon

3 3/8" buttons

...and this is the out-of-print Simplicity pattern that I will be using to make the gown and jacket.

I haven't sewn one of these in some time and I'm actually looking forward to making this outfit. I'm planning on sewing the gown, the jacket, a bonnet and some bloomers - although the bloomers are a maybe since the little girl may need tights because her christening is happening during the month of December. I will have more on that this weekend...

...on another note, I'm sure most of you have read LindsayT's last blog post and I have to say that I'm going to miss her presence in the blogosphere. I know that in the six years since I've been blogging that many new sewing blogs have been started. I also realize that it is a good thing to have a diverse group of people blogging because it brings many different voices to the sewing conversation. However, I'm truly going to miss Meg, not only because I've gotten to know her personally but also because I've loved reading about her sewing journey!

...as always, more later!

Rippppp!!!!

2011-11-27T11:10:00.000-05:00

Yesterday after I pulled myself out of the Colette Sewing Book, I went back to working on the McCalls dress. I did a fitting when I got the base of the dress together...everything was looking good. Then I put the sleeves and the band onto the dress neckline and got this:

Now don't these two fabrics look fantastic together! I was psyched! I put the almost finished dress (no hems) on and *sigh* knew I was going to spend some quality time with my seam ripper. The sleeves are too small and it's causing the dress front to pull...actually the sleeves are just wrong and need to be redone. But here is the heartbreaking part - I have no more silk left. Or if there is a remnant around, I have no idea where it is (don't get me started on those dayum fabric bins!)

After casting around for another idea, I remembered that I had some navy ponte knit. Which I did have enough sense to put in a separate bin, so it was easy to find. Here's a pic of this combination:

Not as pretty as the original one, right? However, it will work...but at this point I was pretty well done for the night, so I turned everything off and headed upstairs to watch television...at 9:30pm!

This morning with the sun shining bright and a renewed fervor, I pulled out my seam ripper and started ripping the neckband and sleeves apart. I will redraft the sleeve pattern. I will make a two-part sleeve with a seam down the center instead of a single sleeve with a dart at the sleeve cap. I will finish the dress.

Of course this journey is taking a little longer than I thought. But since I'm making a conscientious effort to slow my sewing down, as well as, trying to use more new patterns (hey I buy them, I should use them!) making this dress will probably consume my entire Thanksgiving recess. And in the morning light, even that's okay. It's not like I don't have anything else to wear! *smile*

...as always, more later!

The Colette Sewing Handbook

2011-11-26T14:36:00.001-05:00

I've been aware of the Colette pattern line since it first came to market and even though I've admired some of the garments made from the patterns, the line didn't really fit my lifestyle. I was also aware that Sarai was writing a book and I have to admit that I really had no plans on purchasing it.

Then I saw my first Meringue skirt and I wanted one. I really wanted one after I saw a few more versions and Sarai posted instructions on her blog on how to add a waistband to the skirt. I don't know about my fellow plus size sistahs but I NEED a waistband on a straight skirt that has a zipper! The hunt was on to find the pattern...and that's when I realized that the only way to get the pattern was to buy the book. Since I needed a few Christmas gifts from Amazon, I threw it in the cart for me.

The book arrived this morning and instead of finishing up my McCalls dress, I've been sitting here engrossed in the book. Why do you ask? Because even though this book is geared to the beginning sewist, Sarai said a few things in her introduction that had me shaking my head "yes" along with her. These three sentences sealed the deal for me:

"There's only one trait that I think every sewer should possess: curiosity. Learning to sew is an ongoing process; in fact, the learning never really stops. Each project has the potential to teach you something new."

Those are such awesome and wise words. It's the reason I call myself an intermediate sewist 'cause I believe that there is ALWAYS something new to learn about my craft.

Then Sarai sealed the deal when she discussed wearable muslins positively. Now anyone who has read my ramblings for any amount of time knows that I don't make a muslin and that I believe in wearable muslins. This can be such a divisive subject in the sewing community so to read that she actually understands that there is a place for the wearable muslin, made my heart sing. Especially because many times I'm the one standing alone or in the midst of the minority on this technique.

The final selling point (the one that made me write this blog post) was that I learned a new fitting technique. My AHA! moment occurred when I was reviewing the pivot alteration that she wrote for adding width to the hip line in a skirt and in a bodice pattern piece. I've always added space/width at the center front of the pattern piece but Sarai shows how to add it by slashing and spreading, then pivoting the pattern piece. Now I can't wait to use this technique on a new pattern!

So look for a new Meringue skirt here soon and if you've been wondering if you need a copy of this book in your sewing library, YES you do! To help you along I'm including a link to Sarai's bundle special, buy the book and get 2 patterns for $50. Since it's Shop a Small Business Saturday, place an order today to support this small sewing business.

I'm off to finish my latest dress which is turning out better than I expected. Love when that happens! I still have tomorrow to sew and I just might dig out the piece of fabric that I'm thinking about and make my very own version of the Meringue skirt...

...as always, more later!

Next up - McCalls 6460

2011-11-24T23:44:00.001-05:00

This dress pattern caught my eye as soon as it was issued, probably because of it's raglan sleeves - my latest design feature crush. And even though all of the pictures and drawings show the dress in evening fabrics, I could actually see a work dress in View B. So first a pic of the pattern:

McCalls 6460

Then I was flipping through the December 2011 issue of Marie Claire and this fabric combination caught my eye. The inspiration dress is by Jason Wu from his Resort 2012 collection:

...and I knew what fabrics I wanted to use for my version of the M6460 dress. Best of all I had these fabrics in my "current fabrics" bin so no digging through bins to find fabrics. The floral print wool challis was purchased from Vogue Fabrics Fall 2011 swatch club mailing. The blue silk crepe was re-purposed from this UFO that I made back in May. It will be used for the sleeves with the base of the dress from the floral print.

I want to make a few more dresses to wear while the weather is still warm enough to wear them. So this is the first project I'm working on during the Thanksgiving recess. This is a little different from my normal "work dress" choices but since I now own a closet full of "professional" clothing, I'm attempting to make some outfits that are a little edgier and better reflect my personality!

...as always, more later!

The Right Tool for the Job

2011-11-23T00:01:00.000-05:00

Do you ever think about why a sewist needs so many tools? Do you really need 3 or 4 pairs of scissors when a single pair should do the job? Why do you need several pieces of pressing equipment to press open a seam? Several different types of pins?

I used several different types of sewing paraphernalia to get the faux leather accents to work just right on my recent dress. First up was my silk organza pressing cloth. This allowed me to press with steam the leather without ruining the fabric...yet I was able to add enough steam to mold the leather around the dresses neckline and the sleeve hems.

My duckbill scissors were also very helpful with insuring that I cut only the excess fabric from the seam line. I didn't want to cut away any of the underlying fabric or cut too closely to the seam line. I love these scissors whenever I need to clip or cut in close quarters.

So when you're sewing your next fabulous outfit, think about how many tools you use to get that outfit to look just so...and remember that using the right tool for the job is what really makes it easy to achieve that look!

...as always, more later!

You can now have my TNT dress pattern too!

2011-11-22T00:01:00.000-05:00

I've made 51 dresses from an OOP dress pattern that I've been using for at least a dozen years. When the new Butterick patterns came out, I realized that if you're a plus size woman (or even if you aren't) you can now own a pattern that is very similar to the pattern that I've been using forever.

It's Butterick 5706:

...and except for that weird extra long back view, this pattern is pretty close to mine. The u-neckline is a little deeper, but the pattern includes a v-neckline version, cap and elbow length sleeves. What really makes this dress a winner in my book is that it only has side bust darts on the dress front piece. If you're supporting a little extra abdomen like I am, this really is a flattering look.

For those who don't have the booty issues that I do, there are even back darts for some additional fitting, so you won't feel like you're wearing a great big ole tent. Now even though I have my well used TNT pattern, I bought this pattern. I really want to make a version and see how this pattern works...so sooner or later a dress from this pattern will be showcased here...

While purchasing patterns during the last Club BMV sale (well actually the sale before this last one!), I also bought Butterick 5719.

Not only did the princess seamed jacket appeal to me but the princess seamed dress did too. I'm sure that if I dug around in my extensive pattern collection, I probably have a princess seamed dress like this but honestly, I was just too lazy to look...especially since this look wasn't in the set of patterns that I've just recently organized. Anyway, this is the pattern that I want to use for the purple sheath dress I'm feening for.

I still have no idea what I'll be making this weekend...just that I will be sewing! Yeahhhhh!!!

...as always, more later!

McCalls 6395 - Final

2011-11-20T18:40:00.000-05:00

Pattern:
McCalls 6395 - A Dress that's semi-fitted through bust and hip with a loose-fitting waist.

Fabric:
Black ponte knit from Fabric Mart
Gray ponte knit from Fabric Mart
Patchwork Faux Leather from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" black invisible zipper

The Construction Journey:
**I detailed my pattern alterations in this post.

**However, I ended up removing the two inches that I added to the lengthen/shorten lines because the skirt was hanging a little too low.

**I decided to omit the lining I was going to add...the ponte knit is firm enough without it.

**I was going to omit the center back zipper but after adding the leather trim to the neckline, I decided I needed to make sure that I could get the dress over my head...so I added the 9" invisible zipper.

**I also added leather pieces to the hip line and the sleeve hems.

A few more shots:

The leather at the neckline

The hand on the hip pose

Final Notes:

This dress is very comfortable to wear and even though it has a little more "Casual Friday-ish" feel to it, it will get worn to work. Sometimes, I just need a little something different, y'know! But I have to tell you that I have a serious fabric crush on ponte knit! Gawd is this some awesome stuff to sew and wear!

I'm also crushing on McCalls 6460 - View B with the raglan sleeves. Have I told you lately how much I love raglan sleeves?

McCalls 6460

So I think this will be up next...I also really want a purple sheath dress...don't know if I will have time to make both next weekend but that's what I'll be working on unless I give in and make a few more skirts, or maybe finish up the UFO jacket from earlier this year...or...you get the drift. *LOL*

Parting Shot:
The Little Prince and his mother came to visit this afternoon and she took these pictures for this post...(Sharon, I know a tripod) He's getting so big these days, that I wanted to share a picture of the little man with you:

...as always, more later!

I sewed in the middle of the week!

2011-11-17T23:08:00.000-05:00

I can't remember the last time I did that! But I actually sewed quite a bit yesterday evening...and I have photographic proof! Bad photographic proof but proof nonetheless.

So tonight I came home and tried on the basted together dress and while I got the width right, the length is a little wonky. I will be removing the length I added, cause it ain't working.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the weekend! I'm looking forward to sewing all weekend long! It's back...my mojo is back from vacation and I can't wait to take it out for a spin...thank goodness 'cause I was beginning to be worried that it was never coming back...silly I know but sadly true.

I have a list of garments that I want to sew...as an aside, I'm pinching myself because I have a list again! And I'm off for four days next week for Thanksgiving and all of my children, their spouses and my grandchildren are coming here...so no traveling, extra hands to help cook and clean-up which means I will have a good three days to sew. I'm sooooo excited!

As an aside, Elaray asked if this was the first sewing room that I've had. No, it isn't. When I was married I lived in a townhouse and we converted the basement into my sewing room and the girls playroom. I spent many wonderful weekends there, sewing and listening to my daughters play...learning my craft, teaching others to sew and inspiring others to love this gift as much as I do. So yes, I've had several sewing rooms in different incarnations...I've been sewing since I was 11 and it's been an integral part of my life since then.

Finally I'm slowly but surely getting used to my new room. I'm working out the kinks but it's time to sew...and I'm planning on doing just that! So look for the finished version of McCalls 6395 this weekend.

...as always, more later!

Another side effect of moving

2011-11-14T18:00:00.000-05:00

I have no desire to fabric shop. *sigh* Seriously...no desire! I think it has something to do with touching each and every piece of fabric in my collection during the move. So Fabric Mart is having their awesome Pyramid of Savings sale. You know the one where you get 15% off a $25 purchase, 20% off a $75 purchase, and 30% off a $125 purchase...and even though I've gone to the site several times, I'm just uninspired.

Nuthin' and I mean nuthin' made me want to place it in the shopping cart, type in my credit card numbers and wait for the box of wonders to arrive. I think I finally understand the feeling people have when they say their fabric stash overwhelms them. Now before you start writing in suggestions on how I can destash...think about it! Do you really think I want to part with any pieces of my most amazing and wonderous fabric collection? I mean really, I don't! And once the fabric closets arrive and the fabric is safely tucked inside, I will probably go back to my fabricaholic ways. Or maybe, it will still take me a minute before I blithely return to fabric shopping...since I will once again be touching each and every piece I own to get it into the new fabric closets.

However, if you are still fabric shopping, please head on over to Fabric Mart and pick up a piece or two in my honor.

Now onto sewing in the new sewing room...it's still not intuitive yet. I'm still rearranging as I go. Sew a seam and something doesn't feel right so I move something else around. I have to remember that I lived in my apartment for 6.5 years before I moved so there was a lot of time to get used to sewing there and I KNOW that I didn't sew as much at the beginning as I did at the end of my time there. So I will keep plugging away at it, moving a piece here and reworking something there.

I would like to thank everyone for their very kind comments about my move, before, during and after. Your encouragement and good wishes were very dear to me as I plowed ahead and got a new sewing room up and running. Now to answer a few questions...

Michelle Jadaa asked, "Did you discover anything you forgot you had?"
Yes, there were definitely some fabric finds! Some that I've added to the current fabric piles and you may see soon in some new patterns! There was also a certain amount of awe at the amount of sewing paraphernalia I've accumulated. You know when you just keep tucking things away without taking everything out and looking at it, you just don't realize how much you actually have...or maybe you do and you just don't want to take your head out of the sand! *LOL*

CaCoyote, Las Vegas asked, "Did you find the zippers?"
Nope. I headed over to Daytona Trimmings last week and bought a small supply of 20/22" and 9" zippers to tide me over.

janis asked, "Where did I get the boxes holding my sewing library?"
I ordered all of my moving supplies from U-Line online. We use them as a resource for work and they ship quickly. So yes, I paid for boxes but I was able to get just what I needed for a discounted price. Those particular boxes can be found here.

...and the best question of all...A Sewn Wardrobe asked, "if it will stay clean and organized for long?"
*LOL* That's my plan! But you know how that goes...so next year when I'm all settled in and sewing regularly in my room, I guess I should take pictures and post and you can be the judge! *LOL*

...as always, more later!

It's finished for now

2011-11-13T08:50:00.001-05:00

I've opened and put away the last box. I've cleaned off the sewing table top...which had become the drop off station for anything I wasn't sure where to put it. I've marked almost everything...still need to bring my label-maker home from work to add a few labels to things. And my inspiration board still needs to be tacked up...but other than that my sewing room is finished and waiting to be used.

Here are a few pics:

My button & closing shelves

(This use to reside in the armoire in my bedroom)

The first bookshelf

(holds patterns, tv & computer equipment

plus the books my parents had)

The second bookshelf that is currently

holding my sewing library in bins,

as well as my thread collection.

The books will be taken out of the bins later.

Cutting table (side view)

Ikea piece - this use to hold clothing in my

bedroom closet - now it holds all of the

items that use to reside in my armoire.

I haven't tried the room out yet and I still have to find a place to put my ironing board permanently, so as of now it will have to be taken up and down for every use. However, I believe I will gain some space once the new fabric closets arrive. This is what I ordered from Lowes:

After these are assembled and placed against the wall where the fabric bins now reside, I will gain some space and a place for the ironing board. For right now I will improvise. I did manage to keep all of the pieces of McCalls 6395 together during the move so I'm going to see if I can finish that dress up today. My mojo isn't all the way back, but I think I need to jump start it with a little sewing. Hopefully I will have some actual sewing to share with you soon!

...as always, more later!

Sooooo...nuthin!

2011-11-08T20:56:00.004-05:00

This is the longest I've gone without sewing in a very long time without being sick or swamped at work. Since neither of those things are going on in my life right now...I'm a little lost.

I've unpacked most of my boxes, and of course I've found something else missing...my box of zippers. I was pretty devastated when I realized they were gone...which makes no dayum sense since I tripped down to the garment district and bought quite a few more... I think it was just the left over packing/moving/unpacking fever that caused me to overreact. I know I can't replace what was in the box but I've bought more and that hurdle has been crossed...but still no desire to sew.

Another thing I knew but just wasn't facing was how many patterns I own. Now I have to figure out a storage solution for them 'cause the one I was using (haphazardly placing them anywhere) didn't translate well to my new sewing room - *LOL* You would think sorting through vintage and newly released patterns would jumpstart my sewing mojo...NOPE! Its still vacaying...

Okay, so enough moaning about that...I'm sure you all read Cidell's blog, Miss Cellie's Pants...and if you don't you really should, because she makes the most interesting pieces - presently she's working on a cape for a bike ride! Anyway, Cidell has been nominated for the Mobbies Awards and she needs our help. It's the last three days of voting but if you go to this link, and complete the simple log in process (really it's easy, I did it in 30 seconds or less!), you can vote for Cidell in three categories:

Best DIY Blog

Best Lifestyle Blog

Best Personal Blog

But the real important vote is for Best Overall Blog...like Cidell says, wouldn't it be fantastic if a sewing blog won for Best Overall Blog! So if you have a few minutes, would you mind following the link and voting for Cidell!

Thanks and I'm out...hopefully some sewing will be going on here again soon!

Still Slowly Unpacking

2011-11-03T12:45:00.000-04:00

I thought I would update everyone so that you would know that I hadn't fallen off the face of the earth! Because I am sooooooo much better at packing than unpacking...it has been going rather slowly. Like one box a night slowly!

Because there is so much to unpack and I'm a little overwhelmed by seeing/touching/feeling all of what I own...y'know ignorance really is bliss...that I end up stopping and contemplating the contents of each box. Whereas when I packed the box it was more like throw it in, make it safe and keep it moving, y'know?! Anyway the sewing machines and of course the computer are set up now.

sewing machine & serger on table

my beloved HP computer

and 2nd sewing machine

My mojo has fled...probably because it doesn't want to be involved in unpacking any boxes! *LOL* I'm sure it will be back once everything is settled. Just wanted to give an update...

...as always, more later!

Moving Tales - Part III

2011-10-31T07:30:00.000-04:00

Of course there is no sewing going on in the new sewing room. However, all the sewing machines are on my L-shaped table set-up because I now have the space. The cutting table is up and ready to be used...and I'm working on the boxes. But the one thing that moving does is that it makes you go through all the stuff that you've been holding onto.

I'm sure I should just toss magazines but if they've been around for any period of time, I realize that there was a reason for me to keep them. My bedside nightstand was a treasure trove of magazines. I wanted to highlight just two of the things I found.

One is the January 2002 issue of Town & Country. There is an article in the magazine on Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld and the making of a new RTW Chanel jacket. This was a fantastic find and I actually sat down on my bed and read this article by Judith Warner. I'm sharing the pictures of the article with you here:

I'm soooooo glad that I kept this!

The next thing I found that I probably should have thrown out...but after flipping through it I decided to keep for the ideas. This company was a division of JJill and went out of business. These are probably the last three catalogs that I received and they are dated 1999. I probably didn't toss them because the clothing is classic...things that I could make/wear now by simply changing hem lengths.

I was curious about this company so I did an internet search and found the following blurb in a Direct Marketing News brief (probably why I was so attracted to the clothing and the styling of the catalog):

"The discontinued Nicole Summers catalog concept was targeted to a slightly older customer than J.Jill, affluent women ages 45 and older who have an active but formal lifestyle, according to a company overview. J.Jill is designed to appeal to women ages 35 and older."

I'm getting use to the sewing room set-up. I've moved a few things around since the first pics but I don't have any more to share just yet. I've got to sew something to see if it will work for me before I call it done. After I run some errands today, I'll be back to unpack a few more boxes...then it's back to work on Tuesday.

...as always, more later!

Moving Tales - Part II

2011-10-30T11:20:00.001-04:00

Yesterday was moving day...in the middle of a snowstorm. Yes, that's right...the snow that was anticipated to arrive around 2-3pm actually showed up at 10:45am in my neighborhood. I know. I looked at my watch at that time because I couldn't believe that the rain had turned to SNOW! It snowed the entire time of the move, as well as, well into the night.

However, I am all moved in and typing this post from my new sewing room. My amazingly disorganized and stuffed to the brim with fabric totes bin...but in nevertheless. I wanted to share a few moving observations while the horror of it was still fresh in my mind. Horror because I HATE moving, not horrible because the move was bad. Actually, the movers were fantastic. Funny, fast and unperturbed by the snow...if anything the snow caused them to move it along a little quicker...

Some observations:
1. As stated above the movers were fast, funny and professional. They were such good sports about moving in that horrible weather and even took the time to wipe the boxes off before moving them into the house, that I'm sure I overtipped them. But they did make moving extraordinarily easy.

2. Ummm no I don't sew for a living and no I won't make you anything...enough said about that!

3. I have alot of fabric. I know I have alot of fabric. And yes, I did have two large garbage bags full of fabric after the great pack up to donate, as well as giving two large 20 gallon totes of fabric to my daughter. I have culled quite a bit...so no I don't want to donate any more. Yes, I'm quite aware of the fact that I won't be able to sew it all in my lifetime...but that's why I have daughters! *LOL* It will be their problem to deal with once I'm gone.

4. The room diagram my friend John made up for me works. Of course the room needs a little tweaking...but having some directions made getting all the items in far easier. Now unpacking...I'm going to be doing that for weeks! My computer is up and next is the sewing machines and after that the boxes. Thank goodness I don't go back to work until Tuesday morning.

5. My bedroom is in the best shape of all the rooms since I bought new bedroom furniture, someone else built it and made sure it was right. All I have to do there is hang up my clothes because while I was waiting for some tech to come and hook something up, I filled all the drawers.

6. Of course last night after going through everything, I noticed a missing box which I have no hopes of recovering...especially since this same thing happened the last time I moved and I swore that I would be more careful this time...box still went missing! *sigh*

7. I'm broke. Moving is terribly expensive and I don't want to do this again any time soon! Last time was 6 years ago. I'm hoping that I can stay here another 20 years...I'm getting to old for this! *LOL*

Finally because I have no shame, a few pictures of the mess that currently is my sewing room:

Picture from my new bedroom window

early this morning so you can see the snow!

The wall of fabric bins

The new home of my book collection

Some day it will come out of the totes!

The sewing table that needs

to be set up

Of course, I'll post pictures when the room is finally in shape and receiving visitors - but doesn't the floor look good! My daughter did a great job of putting it down!

...as always, more later!

Moving Tales - Part I

2011-10-27T20:24:00.000-04:00

It's pouring rain in New Jersey...and I've been out in it ALOT today! My daughter and I spent the day moving my clothing to the new place, waiting for a furniture delivery and then laying down a new floor in the basement...which even though I thought I bought enough boxes of flooring, we are making another trip to Lowes tomorrow morning to get more...

The picture is a little grainy because

it was shot from my blackberry.

It also helps to have friends who love to decorate because I was totally stumped on how to best use the space in my new sewing room. So I sent the measurements and pics of the room to my friend John, who was designing my original sewing room. In 2 hours he shot me back the following sketch:

He also located some cabinets that have a 6" clearance at the bottom that aren't very expensive. I will use them to store the fabric in...for a fabric closet wall. See I've been majorly stressing about losing my fabric closet...MAJORLY STRESSING! 36 18-gallon bins of fabric is not a collection...it's a stash. And it is an overwhelming stash...but I think these new closets will solve my problem. I can live with the bins until I get together the cash to purchase the closets...just knowing there is a solution has eased my mind!

Tomorrow it's back to Lowes, laying the rest of the flooring, meeting up with the offsite shredding company to shred all of my mail (thanks Elizabeth, I listened!) and then back to the old apartment to finish off the last of the packing. I keep thinking I'm almost done and then come back and see more stuff that needs to be packed up...*sigh*

The movers arrive on Saturday morning so I will be unpacking Sunday and Monday...and back to work on Tuesday. I may or may not post again before then especially since who knows when I'll be sewing again...*sigh*

...as always, more later!

Tales from Walmart

2011-10-22T15:29:00.000-04:00

...or why I shop online...
I tried. I tried really hard to order storage bins online but it came down to the fact that I did need to see them. I couldn't figure out what the difference between the gallon sizes were without hefting them...so off to Walmart I went.

Here are just a few observations...
*Why does every older person of diversity (and I don't mean black folks!) ask me what prices are, where things are located, and if I can lift something for them? Seriously, wasn't the suede jacket, purse over my shoulder or the fact that I had a shopping cart just like you a giveaway that I was a shopper just like you? And if it was a black thing...Lord help me! My mother finally just moved out of the aisle after the third, yes I said third person, asked me for a price and I looked at them and said quite loudly, NO...I don't work here!

*What happened to the day when people carefully watched their children in the store? Seriously, there were more little (and I mean little) people wandering around touching iPad displays, darting in front of carts and generally being parentless. I guess parents don't mind if those children go missing, huh?

*Does your Walmart only open three lines so that the lines are so long that you can read almost an entire magazine before you can begin to see the cashier?

*And does Walmart even hire people anymore? I mean besides cashiers? Try looking for someone to ask a question to...

Why was I in dreaded Walmart anyway? To purchase 25 18-gallon plastic bins to pack my fabric collection in. And why am I packing my fabric collection away...because I'm moving. Yes, that's right...I'm moving. *sigh*

There has been a lot of behind the scenes wrangling, buying, etc. but I'm moving just 7 minutes away from where I presently live. I will have a sewing room. An 8'x10' foot space but it's in the basement of the new condo. So all of my pretty sewing room plans have been thrown out and I'm going with very basic industrial furniture in case of basement flooding...hence the plastic bins.

My plan is to finish up the McCalls dress this weekend and then I'm shutting my sewing down. I have a lot of packing and then unpacking to do. I'm already stressing and eating gobs of junk food and drinking way too much Mountain Dew. So after this dress, it will be a minute before any more sewing goes on here...be patient...I'll be back...well I hope...if that mountain of fabric boxes doesn't fall on top of me and kill me! *laughing hysterically*

...okay, more later!

McCalls 6395 - Part I

2011-10-18T00:01:00.000-04:00

This is another pattern that I've wanted to make since it appeared in the fall catalogue. However, you know those patterns show up at the middle of summer...usually during a heatwave...so you have to wait until the weather is chillier to even think about making them. Well it's chilly and I'm seriously thinking fall gear! So instead of pulling my altered pattern pieces for my SF Inspired Dress out of the folder, I pulled new pattern pieces out of the pattern envelope instead.

McCalls 6395

I think this pattern is skewed to the younger sewist but I saw a dress that I could corporatize by making a few changes:

- I mixed two views ~ using the upper half of view B and the skirt portion of view C.

- I'm adding faux leather accents to the dress.

- I omitted the foldover neckline, because even though the illustrations show it as close fitting, there is no way that it could be since it has a boat neckline.

- I omitted the exposed zippers. This is a very cool and trendy effect but I'm already adding faux leather accents to the dress so one trend per dress is enough for me.

- I omitted the facings since I decided to line the dress and I'm binding the neckline with the faux leather.

Pattern Alterations:
- added 2" at the lengthen/shorten line to both the front and back bodice pieces. The unaltered pieces hit me in a very unflattering place on my body, lengthening them took them down a bit and will give the dress a better line.

- added 2" to the hemline of the skirt pieces ~ both front and back. As pictured above this skirt is short...to short for my chubby knees so adding length was necessary.

- I did a pivot and slide on the front bodice piece to add some room to my abdomen area. This amounted to 2" at the bottom of the bodice piece. So I added 2" to the front skirt piece also.

- I added 1" to the back seam area of the bodice piece and the same 1" to the back skirt piece.

A pleasant surprise was that I did NOT have to make an alteration to the sleeve biceps. They were more than wide enough - Yeah McCalls!

I've already started to construct the dress but got interrupted by my Vogue 1250 LBD. Hopefully, I will finish this up next weekend.

...as always, more later!

Another Little Black Dress

2011-10-16T18:05:00.000-04:00

I've always said that I wanted a black version of Vogue 1250. So this afternoon while working on a different dress that I was using this fabric for, I thought that it would be perfect for V1250.

There are no new construction details to share since this is my fifth version of this pattern. But each time I work with the pattern, I adjust some minor detail that makes the dress more me. I can tell you that just like my maxi-mized version of this dress, I've added a deeper drape and a smidge more fabric in the abdomen area. This has resulted in a fuller hemline but I'm okay with that because it's the drapiness of the neckline that I like most.

I'm still using seams in the back area...both at the bodice and skirt. I like this look better and after reading through some of the other reviews of this dress on Pattern Review, I realized that my back seam should be a little higher. So this time during construction I changed the depth of the seam to raise it a little. Other than that this is still the quick sew that it always is...especially since most of the construction is done on my serger.

This dress has great versatility...

For Work...

Cardigan: QVC Knockoff

Shoes: Jessica London

Bracelets: RJ Graziano

Earrings: Judith Ripka

For a date with friends

Suede Sweater Jacket: Jessica London

Booties: Jessica London

Earrings: eBay vintage Sarah Coventry

Tights: Dress Barn

For an evening out

Earrings & Pin: eBay vintage Sarah Coventry

Stockings: Fishnets from The Avenue

Shoes: AK Anne Klein from Lord & Taylor

Watch: Avon

and winterized

Turtleneck: Dana Buchman

Boots: Torrid

Turtleneck & boots from above

Cardigan: Burda 8869 (OOP)

I can't guarantee that I won't find another piece of fabric in the collection that will ask to be made using this pattern but for right now I'm really happy with my fifth version of it!

...as always, more later!

Vogue 8764 in photos

2011-10-15T16:23:00.001-04:00

Yes, it's finished and I'm kinda liking it! It will be great for work and it's comfortable...so lets go to the stats:

Pattern:
Vogue 8764 from Vogue's recent Winter/Holiday release.

Fabric:
Red ponte knit from Fabric Mart
Black doubleknit from Metro Textiles

Notions:
22" red invisible zipper
black/white striped ribbon

Construction:
One of the best things about this pattern is the A,B,C,D cup custom fit sizing. I used the D cup bodice in a size 24 and had no problems with the fit...well I think my side dart can be a smidge higher...but that's probably my fault. I'm sure it was higher but when I removed the basting, my markings disappeared too, so I think I sewed it a smidge lower. Definitely won't happen next time!

To make the skirt portion fit my abdomen, I did a proper pivot and slide technique making another pattern piece instead of the quickie I usually do on the fabric. But even with this I feel the dress is still a little too close-fitting in that area...so I've already altered my pattern piece to give me a little more room without changing the empire waistline seam...to use in the next version. Believe me there will be a next one...I've already picked out the fabric...a tweedy wool crepe.

This dress is unlined. The pattern tells you to line it. I pretty much thought that I wouldn't line it right from the first fitting because the fabric doesn't need it. I am, however, wearing a half slip in the pics and will in real life. To finish off the neckline since I didn't line it, I just serge finished my pieces and turned under a 1/2" and stitched flat using a lot of steam and my clapper.

Only the neckline is top-stitched although the pattern tells you to topstitch all the seams. By not adding the lining, I did have some looseness in the back neckline, I solved this by adding two shallow darts. I'm not sure if the looseness was caused by my handling of the fabric because it was more stretchy than the bottom piece, or if the back piece just was a little looser on me. Whatever the darts solved the problem...

I'm still using Summerset's method (her November 2nd, 2009 blog post) to set in an invisible zipper when you have a band in the back and it works like a charm. I got a really good match this time...even though I sewed the ribbon to the dress prior to adding the zipper.

Adding the ribbon trim was a little challenging, but Steam A Seam 2 in the 1/2" size made the job so much easier. By applying it to the back of the ribbon and then lightly pressing the ribbon to the fabric I got a great hold before I took the dress to the sewing machine and added two rows of stitching to the ribbon. Then after I pressed the ribbon area, the Steam A Seam added some additional hold to insure the ribbon was firmly attached to the dress.

The sleeve hems and the hem of the dress both have a twin needle hem.

When I was putting the dress on the hanger, I knew that I wanted to wear the pearl brooch that was my Mom's. She wore it in the 70s, I actually remember her wearing it when I was in high school. I retrieved it from a garage sale basket she was putting together a couple of years ago and I've been wearing it ever since. However, when I pinned it to the knit top, it made the dress front sag. To solve this I was originally going to put a piece of the black/white ribbon on the back of the dress so the brooch would be stabilized. As I was cutting the fabric it hit me that the ribbon on the front of the dress with the brooch would look cute. That's how that look came to be...

Finally a few more shots of me wearing the dress...

I've already pulled the fabric for my next dress...yes, I know another dress but my dress wearing time is starting to get short...it's starting to get chilly here...I'm watching the wind blow outside my kitchen window as I type this. And I know that I'm going to need to make a couple of pairs of pants this winter since I've recently retired several pairs.

....as always, more later!

A Three Day Weekend...

2011-10-14T15:27:00.002-04:00

I have a vacation day today so I'm home...taking my time, surfing the web, reading blogs, watching TV and of course, sewing. My plan is to finish off the Vogue dress this afternoon and get pics taken in the morning...during the good light...because my evening/after dark photos just aren't cutting it anymore.

Next up will be cutting out my new fabric for the SF Inspired dress and working on it this weekend. New fabric as in I figured out what took my eyes off my obsession with this dress. The Fabric Mart fabric while amazing is a small houndstooth weave and the designer dress uses a larger houndstooth. As I've seen more pictures of celebrities wearing this dress, my original fabric was just not working for me.

So I left work reasonably on time last night and hurried over to Mood Fabrics where I picked up this piece from the wool department on the 2nd floor.

I also saw the most amazing printed wool jersey piece that I left behind but the thought of it is torturing me...so I see another trip to Mood in my future! *LOL* Anyway, now that I've got the right fabric, I will start working on this one this weekend too...because this will be one of my last long sewing weekends for awhile and I want to get the most out of it!

One more inspiration photo...

www.Chicos.com

...I have an idea for this dress, based of course on my TNT dress pattern, that involves a little houndstooth trim (yes, I have houndstooth on the brain!!!) and an awesome piece of fabric that I bought from Fabric Mart. I may or may not get to this one, but it will be next up in the sewing queue if I don't.

Speaking of inspiration, this list appears in an article in the November 2011 issue of O Magazine. I definitely want to add a few of these pieces (especially the graphic black & white sheath dress) to my fall/winter wardrobe...now I just have to find the time to sew them...

...as always, more later!

UFO's

2011-10-13T00:01:00.000-04:00

I was reading Kathryn's blog, I Made This! She recently completed this amazing halter dress that she'd started earlier this summer...but even though she probably won't get much wear out of it this season, she completed it because it was in danger of becoming a UFO.

I use to be like Kathryn. I had maybe 2 or 3 UFO's over the course of five years. If something didn't work, I tore it apart and reworked it or I pulled the fabric apart and added it back into the collection.

However, this year I've had at least four UFO's (5 if you include that disastrous affair with the CC dress) and even though I'm holding onto them hoping that I will be able to reuse or rework them, if I don't that will be okay.

Puzzled? Wondering why I'm so accepting of my UFO fate? Well it's because I have sooooo many ideas and sooooo much fabric that I'm finally realizing that I can let some of these "failed" pieces go. Lately trying to finish or thinking about fixing unfinished garments is sucking all of the joy out of my sewing. Which isn't good...because I need the balance that sewing provides in my life. So I've decided that if I get to them, I get to them...and if I don't...I don't. Sometimes letting go is the best thing you can do for your creativity.

So tell me, what do you do with UFOs? How do you handle them? Are they holding places of honor in your sewing room waiting for their chance to be completed? Or do you trash them? Talk back to me because this is the Question of the Day!

On another note, can I just tell you that I appreciated you talking back to me on my last Question of the Day! I really loved this comment by Patti (fourkid),

"I know I will never measure up to the abilities of some of the ladies whose blogs I read, but neither do I feel I need to. I am happy with what I do - and always learning more - from those very ladies. I need them in front to inspire me, and I need to extend a hand to those following me."

Thanks for perfectly stating how I feel about my sewing and sharing this precious gift with others...

...as always, more later!

Vogue 8764

2011-10-11T22:08:00.001-04:00

I fell hard for this pattern when I first saw it in the Vogue winter new patterns section. I HAD TO HAVE IT! So I was really thrilled when Vogue put the new patterns on sale so quickly...and as tired as I was last Friday I was even more excited when I opened the mailbox and found it there.

Vogue 8764

I really wanted to make this dress this past weekend. I was even willing to throw over my other obsession (the SF Designer Interpretation) for my very own copy of this dress. But I was tired, really tired and all I managed was to find the fabric in the collection and cut the dress out. Wait, wait, I need to back up a minute and talk about my fabric selection - because what I ultimately used was not my first choice.

I knew I wanted to make the dress from a ponte knit because ponte knits are my new favorite fabric to sew with...so it was a matter of finding two coordinating colors in my collection. (Yes, I have amassed a collection of ponte knits but shhhhh that's not what this post is about!) From the very first sighting I knew that I wanted this as a two tone dress...so it was a matter of choosing.

My first thought was to mix a solid and a print but I couldn't decide on what print and solid and how to situate them. Print on top/solid on the bottom or the reverse...no matter how I placed them I just wasn't happy with the combinations. So I fell back and used a bright tomato red and black combo. I cut them out Sunday afternoon but I just wasn't feeling them, so they sat.

Then there were the pattern alterations which really weren't extensive because this is a custom fit ABCD cup bodice. Seriously, if you haven't used one of these patterns you are really missing out! There is a chart on the first page of the instructions that tell you where to measure to figure out what size cup bodice part you should use.

I used a smaller size bodice than skirt bottom. I altered the skirt bottom pieces to include enough space for my abdomen which hasn't seen a flat day for the last 22 years! However, I'm finally embracing the fact that I'm a true pear and I think that when I acknowledge that fact and incorporate it into my sewing that my dresses fit better. With much trepidation, I cut the bodice one size smaller and as I said before the pieces sat on the sewing table while I watched Sunday night television.

Yesterday was a holiday...well for some people...not for me but I did manage to leave time on work and since the traffic was very light, I made it home in record time. With all of that extra time and some renewed energy, I decided to baste the dress together to see how my alterations worked...I know, I know, the muslin camp is thinking, "if you had just made a dayum muslin, you would know how it fit" yeah you're right but since that ain't happening, I basted the dayum thing together! *LOL*

Here's the result...

...pretty good, huh? I'm thrilled! I made one simple alteration to the skirt bottom and transferred it to the pattern piece...and then I added this ribbon trim...

Now I can't wait for the weekend to finish this up! I did take the basting out, serged the edges of the fabric pieces and then pinned it back together...I will definitely finish this up this weekend...so stay tuned!

...as always, more later!

Sometimes you just need a quickie...

2011-10-10T19:50:00.000-04:00

I was eavesdropping the other day and overheard a conversation that went something like this...

Sewist #1: I don't understand why some women post and sew such quick things that never look very well done or flatter them. I know they like to sew since they sew alot but why rush through garments.

Sewist #2: Cause sometimes you just need a quickie!

I've been thinking about this conversation for a few days now and finally decided how I would reply if I was indeed in the conversation instead of just eavesdropping.

First I agree with Sewist #2. There are times when you just need a quick sewing fix. When indulging in the quick sewing fix you do attempt to do the best sewing job that you can, but sometimes it's sewing just to cleanse the palette...or sewing just to get an item done...or even sewing to encourage a lost mojo to find it's way home. To me, not all sewing is about the long arduous process of making a "couture" garment..sometimes it's about finishing something, anything to get it on your body.

Now not everyone is that type of sewist. Some sewists enjoy the process. Taking their time, doing all of the hand-stitching, and time-consuming techniques to make that one perfect garment. I'm just wondering why it has to be one or the other. Why can't there be a place for both types of sewing in a sewist's arsenal? And seriously, haven't you gone through the process, worked everything out by muslining the garment, cut your precious fabric and ended up with a less than perfectly fitted garment? Every now and then even the most accomplished sewist can end up with an oops!

So this is the question of the day, "Do you sometimes just need a quickie?" If yes, why? If not, why not? And do you think that both types of sewing quickie and involved can exist in a sewist's life?

Talk back to me...cause I'm really interested in what you think!

...as always, more later!

So do you really wanna know?

2011-10-08T11:58:00.000-04:00

...what I've been doing all week? Seriously...cause it ain't fun and it ain't sexy...and I'm plum worn out from it! Why moving our offices at work and I have the bruises to prove it!

But every now and then, when I wasn't moving something, talking to a mover, prodding a coworker to pack a little faster, or falling asleep as soon as I sat down on the couch in the living room, I did manage to give a passing thought to sewing. However, I haven't read many blogs in the last week or even managed to keep my own up-to-date...

Here are some of those passing thoughts:
1. My Vogue patterns arrived yesterday...this is what came:

2. Patsjean - I did manage to download the free ebook pattern alterations book you mentioned. You can get one here: http://www.michou-loves-vintage.de/wordpress/?wpfb_dl=4 and looked at it briefly before falling asleep on the bus! *LOL* But I think it will be a great additional to the pattern making section in my sewing library. Thank you for providing the link! And I punched this and spiral bound it at work...we have a huge production room that allows you to do this and much more. One of the things I really love about my job!

3. Do you know if you don't look at Fabric Mart's fabrics everyday, that the selection is pretty awesome and a little overwhelming?! Yeah, when I'm not so tired and/or busy I pretty much haunt the new arrivals section of Fabric Mart every day (except the weekends) and I had my first opportunity to check out the new arrivals this morning...and promptly went into fabric overload! Whoa, they have some great new stuff!

4. I want to sew. I REALLY want to sew. I have that anxiousness that occurs at the beginning of every new season when I have all of these things I want to make and seemingly not even time. I get a little stymied about what to make first. I do have a list but everything on the list is making me want to sew it first which is just physically impossible.

5. I don't know if I'm going to work on the SF Inspired dress this weekend. I'm feeling like I need to accomplish some quick pieces first...but I don't know...so we shall see what eventually ends up coming out of the sewing machine.

And with that I'm off! Off to clean my bedroom and figure out which project to sew.

...as always, more later!