The Season of the Dress

I am truly inspired creatively by the seasons, the things that I see and the conversations that I ingest.

Presently there is a conversation/discussion on Sewing World about dresses. Now I have always loved dresses especially for spring, summer and fall. Dresses, stockings and heels make me feel beautiful and feminine. Truly when was the last time you saw a guy in a dress looking good!

I can remember dresses being special to me ever since I was 4 years old. I was in church with my grandmother (the one who taught me to sew!) and it was time to give our offering. In her Southern Baptist church that meant that everyone left their pew and marched around to the front of the church and placed their offering in the basket. I clearly remember my grandmother telling me to swish the hem of my dress as I walked. "Give it a little flow, child!" Is what she actually said! That was a life changing event for me ~ well obviously since I remember it so vividly 42 years later! But it really taught me how dresses can make a woman feel feminine and pretty.

Flash forward several years ~ I have always collected dress patterns especially since I live in them during the summer. On the East Coast, summer days can be very hot, muggy and humid so a dress with the right accessories and a good pair of sandals makes you well dressed as well as heat resistant! I must have purchased hundreds of dress patterns over the years as I searched for "The Perfect Dress."

This spring/summer season the following dresses have caught my eye and will become part of the elusive search for The Perfect Dress:

1. McCalls 9172 ~ This one was suggested by Sewjandid on Sewing World. It looks like a simple easy dress that can be changed with different fabric types or trims to make a week's worth of dresses. I have ordered this pattern!

2. Vogue 7994 ~ I have wanted to make this one since Cambric Tea reviewed it on Patternreview. I have a wonderful soft seagreen linen from the fabric collection that this would look beautiful in!

3. McCalls 3173 OOP ~ Almost every summer I pull this pattern out. I haven't gotten around to making it yet but it is back out again this year! Hopefully I will have a soft rayon print version of it by summer's end!

4. McCalls 4770 ~ I think this will be my version of the wrap dress this summer. It can be made out of a woven instead of a knit which I think will look better on my plus size body. I have several very pretty Pucci prints in the fabric collection that could make this dress sing!

5. Butterick 6198 ~ is OOP and I have made it twice before out of solid linen and a dot print linen. It was one of my favorite dresses at the time so when I saw the pink picture (cut from a Barrie Pace catalog), I knew I had to find my old pattern, bring it out and use it again!

6. McCalls 7714 ~ An OOP Sundress that I have wanted to make for several years but didn't because of my arms. I hate my upper arms but hey we all have body parts that we would willing trade! I think I can handle making it this year, not because I had arm flap surgery but because I have several great knit cardigans and a great shrug pattern that would look soooo cute with this dress.

I have one more favorite that I have made twice before but somehow neglected to get a picture of it. It is an OOP Vogue Tamoutsu pattern 2090. The pattern envelope describes it as a semi-fitted, a-line dress, above ankle has a collar, collar band, shoulder pads, mock front bands and above elbow sleeves. I have made it in a linen and a silk duppioni both are easy to wear and great looking. I want to add one more version to my summer dress wardrobe.

So here are my choices for summer dressing. One pattern to make a week's worth of dresses and the others to make some very kewl alternatives. If you can get your hands on the May 2006 issue of Burda World of Fashion, they devote an entire section to summer dresses. Now for us plus size girls, they haven't included any dress patterns, but I used the patterns they chose as inspiration in picking my six patterns above. Hey a girl's got to do what a girl's got to do to be fashionable! *smile* Hopefully during the summer of 2006, while the living is easy my summer dresses will keep me cool, fashionable and beautiful!

Fabric Saturation

My original title was "The Hole is Full ~ or the Stop Sign is Up!" Neither one of those seemed really great once I typed them in so I think Fabric Saturation works really well!

Lately, I have been on what at times to me has seemed like a fabric buying binge! I have denied myself very few pieces of fabric that I have seen and/or admired. Each piece has been carefully chosen by either color or fabrication and truthfully a few pieces were chosen by wanton desire! *smile* And each piece that was purchased came with a dream attached to it regarding what it wanted to become!

But recently, I have been feeling saturated and satisfied. As if this need to fill up a hole is done ~ full ~ finished. Mardel from the blog, "Sew Distracted" posted to Sewing World a few months ago about an acquiring gene. I think my genetic acquiring moniker tripped over sometime in early February and it has just recently shut down.

I know this sounds a little strange but there has been fabric everywhere calling my name ~ sometimes quite loudly, sometimes in a soft whisper full of promises, sometimes with a great chorus, y'know like that song from the Oscar ceremony that just rings in your brain forever! Whether loudly or softly, the name calling has been consistent but lately the cries are getting fainter and fainter.

Instead my mind is full to the brim of things to create. Ideas for garments, fabric combinations and trim ideas are all flooding my brain asking/begging to be released through my fingers and made up into interesting pieces to adorn my body.

As my last post acknowledges, I made four simple skirts this weekend but it was like a dam bursting and unlocking a new and different creative flow. My mind is reeling with skirt ideas, trim possibilities and the potential of a new wardrobe of summer skirts! Maybe a new skirt every day for a month! Now that's a reason to go to work every day!!!!

I think my construction genetic moniker has tripped to the on position and its time to create instead of acquire!

Skirts, skirts, skirts ~ Part 2

Well I managed to get four skirts completed. They aren't the skirts I originally contemplated making and I have fabric for three more laying on my cutting table. But it is three pieces of fabric that are no longer in flat form and are now garments!

I was inspired by a skirt that I saw in the spring JJill catalog ~ a simple linen skirt with an elastic waist that is selling for $68 and it doesn't come in a plus size!

And here is a picture of my finished skirts:

From left to right:

1. Pink/blk/gray floral print stretch woven made with a white trim down the front of each gore.

2. Green retros 70's polyester print - close up of the fabric below. I really like this piece. It was given to me by a friend from their aunt's stash.

3. Blue/lime green circles on white background linen print that I have extra left over. So I am working with some lace and the leftover fabric to make a tank top.

4. Skirt from "Cashmere Dreams Collection." Picture of topstitching on skirt pictured below. This topstitching is on each gore of the skirt and the skirt is lined.

These skirts are made from two of my TNT skirt patterns ~ actually one skirt pattern that I have morphed from the original by shortening it, adding gores to the skirt and widening each gore to give the skirt more swing. This skirt worn with a twinset is the perfect outfit for work and a staple in my work wardrobe.

I managed to accomplish my goal for the weekend ~ four new skirts to wear to work this week! And three pieces of fabric removed from the fabric pile...wish this made a big dent in the collection but it isn't even noticeable! *smile*

So did you have a sewing goal for the weekend? Did you accomplish it or are you still working it out? Do you even set sewing goals or do you just go with the flow? I would love to hear about your sewing processes so feel free to share!

Its a skirts, skirts, skirts weekend!

As I stated before, I have recently purchased so much fabric that I was having issues on where to start sewing. There are just piles of it laying around my sewing area. At first I thought I would tag it all and put it away, but that would take up precious sewing time. Then I thought, I would just start working on something and leave the clean-up until later, but there is so much fabric in the room singing that I can't think straight. So the next best solution is just to move the offending fabrics for now to another space and get to work on what remains.

Well it is interesting moving fabric because you always see something differently than when you first stacked it up. I had no idea regarding what I was going to sew this weekend, just that I am going to sew. As I moved fabric around I realized that I have purchased many small pieces of fabrics to use to make skirts. I have several great TNT skirt patterns and I have all of the necessary notions to get these made ~ so skirts it is! The weather is perfect now for wearing them. I have several great twinsets that will work with the pieces selected so that I don't have to make entire outfits. I can just sew skirts. I got a fantastic pair of new shoes from the shoe sale at Lord & Taylor's yesterday that will look great with the pieces I have selected so I have compelling reasons to start there!

Here are the fabrics that are demanding to become garments:

~ green/white poly knit that has a 70's retro feel

~ floral linen print that was recently purchased in San Francisco. Wow, this one is not even making it to the fabric closet!

~ daisy print polyester fabric purchased from Vogue Fabrics

~ pink floral stretch cotton fabric also purchased from Vogue Fabrics

and these last two are a toss up and will be worked on depending on how much time I have left:

~ yellow/white seersucker given to me by a friend

~ blue/white floral cotton print purchased from eQuilter last year that will have blue piping around the hem of the skirt.

Well there is my list and I am off to sew! I will, of course, report back when I am finished!

Ten of Life's Sewing Pleasures

A few days ago, I read someone's list of their top 10 pleasures of life. The list consisted of many simple pleasures that give meaning to our lives. But since I am always thinking in terms of sewing and just recently fulfilled one of my sewing dreams, I amended the list to be "Ten of Life's Sewing Pleasures!"

And mine are:

10. Reading about someone's sewing success and getting inspired to sew!

9. SewingWorld and Patternreview - reading, chatting, experiencing the sewing community

8. Sharing sewing techniques with my daughter.

7. The hum of my sewing machine when I am in the middle of a sewing project.

6. The swish of my scissors cutting through a new piece of fabric.

5. The calm I feel as I submerge myself in a new sewing project.

4. Finishing garments on my sewing list!

3. Perfecting a new technique

2. Finding a wonderfully glorious new piece of fabric to add to my collection.

And one:
Wearing a new garment that fits well, makes me feel beautiful and knowing that I made it with my own two hands!

Now I know that there are some of you out there who are as obsessed with sewing as I am. So do you have a list of sewing pleasures? Have you taken the time to think about what gives you sewing pleasure? If not, why don't you spend some time today and make your own list to cherish! Take some time to appreciate your talent and what makes you special!!!! And then, enjoy your sewing journeys today ~ okay!

Have a glorious sewing day!!!! *smile*

SWAP Voting

This is the week of voting for the SWAP that is being featured by Julie of Timmel Fabrics on Sewing World. If you are a registered member of Sewing World, you are allowed to cast a vote for one of the 23 participants.

So take a look at all of the participants offerings here:

http://www.timmelfabrics.com/2006swapphotos.htm

And here are Julie's instructions for voting:

Please read the voting guidelines posted on the SWAP topic before casting your vote.

Then choose your favourite three, in order of preference, and email the names to me at
mail@timmelfabrics.com

Put SWAP vote in the subject line, then list your three choices, nothing else please.

Sign the email with your proper name.

Voting can begin now and will continue through to April 28.

The voting will be closed midnight April 28.

Read the rules for voting and cast a vote!

There is a tremendous amount of talent displayed by these wonderful women with a wide range of patterns and fabrics used! 23 women submitted 25 SWAPs! Yes, two women sewed 22 pieces, each! I am one of the 23 but I am not trolling for votes. I am encouraging you to participate in our sewing community and to support a fellow sewing sister!!!!

So Vote! And support our sewing community!

Ode to San Francisco

Have you seen the commercial on TV where the father is catching fireflies with his son. Then the next shot is the father putting his son to bed and crossing catching fireflies off a list of things to do with his son....well that's how I feel about fabric shopping in San Francisco! It is something that I have wanted to do for quite some time but family and other things have always come first! Last month I learned that I needed to go to Newport Beach, CA for business and I found the perfect opportunity to visit my friend Lynn in San Francisco!

Believe me it was a long week at work waiting to get to the fun part of the trip but finally I was at the Oakland Airport where I was met by Lynn and we started our San Francisco Fabric Odyessy. First, let me tell you if you think I did any sight seeing other than fabric stores forgetaboutit! It wasn't happening! My dream was to fabric shop and fabric shop only!

Lynn made a wonderful shopping schedule that was easy to follow and restful after working in Newport Beach for over 12 hours a day for 3.5 days ~ not including the evenings for long, long dinners with staff and clients! So we started in Berkley and visited Poppy Fabrics, Stone Mountain and Daughter & Lacis on Friday afternoon.

At Poppy I bought a beautiful coral silk burnout and a printed linen ~ because linens were on sale for 30% off. At Stonemountain and Daughter, I mostly purchased from their half price store upstairs (50% off the price on the bolt) but Lynn had a 25% off everything coupon that they both let us use! Very nice of them, yes! I got a brown/blk/gold chenille that was a home dec fabric backed with a fusible interfacing, a lavender/dk. purple silk tweed, a floral linen print with the 25% off and one yard of a tartan plaid that looks just like the plaids Michael Kors is using in his fall 2006 line!

Next up was Lacis, Lynn was so sure that I wouldn't purchase anything here! Boy, did I fool her! First, we toured the museum in the back. They are having an exhibit that features women's clothing from the 1850s through 1920's. The interesting thing about the exhibit is that alot of the clothing is displayed inside out so that you can see the construction of the garment...way kewl! It was also interesting to see how they handled the fact that they rarely laundered their garments by adding cotton underarm shields and the attachments to the hems to handle dust. Well I did buy something there ~ some vintage mother of pearl buttons and some mesh beads that I will use as buttons!

**Saturday, April 22nd**

We got a late start on Saturday and Britex was suppose to be our first stop, but we snoop shopped the designer floor at Neiman Marcus, first. I was so thrilled to go inside and look up at the beautiful architecture. As a fashion merchandising major in college, retail stores and their layouts was discussed at length! Even though I have seen pictures of the interior, it was truly kewl to see it with my own eyes!

At Britex, Lynn said that I got this really big smile on my face when we walked inside! I have always wanted to go to Britex and it is an absolutely beautiful store. Hard wood display cases, fabric laid out like jewels, just awe inspiring. But I have to tell you, we were on the first floor looking at these beautiful silks on a table, and I found a silk print that is presently selling on Fabric Mart's site in the silk blowout section for $5.99 per yard. Britex is selling it for $24.99 per yard! If you ever get the chance to go to Britex, you should go just for the experience! It is that awesome! I felt the same way there that I felt the first time I walked into the Rockville G Street store and saw the rows and rows of wool crepe in every color and weight!

At Britex Lynn purchased a beautiful piece of linen and some notions. I bought buttons. I found a better amber glass button for the "Cashmere Dreams" Jacket than the ones I already owned and I bought some rayon trim. Okay, I will 'fess up I bought 36 yards of a beautiful amber rayon trim - but it was only $5 for the entire piece so I couldn't leave it! Plus, this definitely counts since I shared 10 yards with Lynn!

Next stop was Satin Moon ~ this is a store full of gorgeous fabrics. I didn't purchase anything here probably because a lot of what I saw in the silks, embroidered silks and sheers, I see everyday in the garment district in NY. But the store is wonderfully laid out and had some great sewn garments displayed. And Lynn picked up some beautiful 100% cotton lawn and batiste remnants. She is really into heirloom sewing!

The final stop was Fabrix and this is where I bought the most stuff. Serger thread for 99 cents meant that I bought 15 cones in 5 colors. Look, that's one of those buys that when you see it you should buy it! *smile* And maybe, I should have thought a little harder about it because it is pretty interesting packing 15 cones of serger thread to transport back across the country!!!!

I also bought 5 yards of an autumn colored mesh because it was only 99 cents and it was stunning! A blue crocheted knit, a dark sand polyester knit, a blue print stretch woven that had these wonderful blue and green water color florals and a couple of yards of a black and orange torn denim for my daughter. The interesting thing about Fabrix is not just the inexpensive prices ~ nothing in the store was over $3.69 per yard but also the way they measure fabric. Yardsticks, what are those! They do the an arm is a yard measurement. But don't worry, they are very generous with the cut so I am sure that I ended up with much larger cuts than what I asked for! It was a very satisfying fabric shopping experience and I can now cross that off my list of things that I have always wanted to do!

The most amazing thing about the fabric shopping was that in almost every store we shopped, I saw at least one but most times two or more pieces that I had recently seen on a fabric internet site and considerably cheaper! If you don't have an independent fabric store near you to support, please realize that you are getting absolutely fantastic deals from both Fabric Mart and Fashion Fabrics Club.

I have to thank Lynn again for helping to make one of my dreams come true! I am sure that to some of you it seems like a minor thing but everyone has something in their life that they have always wanted to do or see. As I get closer to 50 and my children get older, I want to do and see the things on my list! This was a wonderfully, awesome experience and I am soooo glad that I had the opportunity to do it! These pieces of fabric will be treasured as they are cut and sewn or just as they stand watch in my fabric collection...and who knows maybe one day when I am a very old lady I will cut a piece and remember the wonderful weekend that I spent in San Francisco with a very dear friend!

I'm Back!

Just a short note to say that I am back! Had a wonderful time in San Francisco visiting all the fabric shops ~ even stopped by the beach to take some photos ~ but only after the fabric shopping was done! *smile*

Hopefully tomorrow, I can get the pictures downloaded and write up my trip: "An Ode to San Francisco!"

Cut Anxiety

I don't know what it is....but I haven't done one thing to my "Spring Fever" coat! I mean pass assembling all of the pieces and mentally reviewing the sewing steps in my head ~ I have done nothing! What is wrong with me? I know that I want to have this coat on my body when the car service picks me up on Monday morning (early Monday morning) to take me to the airport! So why haven't I started this project?

Besides being a natural procrastinator and working better under pressure, I think I have cut anxiety! Not the anxiety that if I cut into this piece of wonderful fabric that I will ruin it, but the kind of anxiety where you are just anxious about taking that next step. See I can see the finished garment in my head. I have read the instructions again even though I have made this particular jacket twice before. I have even mentally gone through the sewing steps in my head so I have a good idea of how I want to construct the jacket. But there is this sense of needing to take a deep breathe before I start that is stopping me in my tracks!

I have left work on time both Monday and Tuesday evenings so that I would get home in a timely fashion and could start working on the jacket. Monday I got home and finished a novel I was reading. Last night I got home and watched television. Both evenings I looked at the fabric. I touched the fabric. I rearranged the fabric and then I went and did something else. Something that wasn't producing a garment!!!!

As I was coming to work this morning, I realized that this isn't the first time that this has happened to me. And my mind knows that I have a full day and a half to work on this garment and finish it before I need to wear it. So I am going to take a deep breathe. I am going to do some other things that I need to do to prepare for the trip. And I am going to believe that as always I will come through with a quality, wearable garment in the end.

So, do you experience a form of cut anxiety? If so, how do you shake it? Or does it stop your sewing in its tracks?

Sewing Updates

Thank you all so much for voting for my spring fever coat! The winner is:

This is the picture with the elements that I will use for the coat. I have decided to use the green suede for button plackets on the front of the jacket, the edge of the hood and the bands at the sleeve hems. I also found some glass lime green Czech buttons in my stash that will work great with the fabrics. If I have time, I might make a skirt with the left over fabric ~ if I have time! Also I have plenty of lime green pieces that would work with the jacket if I wanted to coordinate.

I also did some work yesterday on the "Cashmere Dreams" jacket ~ got all of the fitting issues done on the front and back pieces of the jacket. The sleeves fit through the biceps and I decided on a thread to use on the top stitching.

Here is a sample of the topstitching choices for the jacket and skirt:

The first line of topstitching uses a matching thread and the bottom line of stitching uses a slightly darker shade of brown thread. I am going to use the darker thread color to give the garments some distinction. I am not going to put this outfit away. Since most of the fitting challenges have been completed I am going to finish this outfit after I work on my "Spring Fever" coat and that will be my last early fall/early spring outfit. I am moving onto spring summer sewing!

I checked my spring/summer sewing list and I am not really off-track. I have even completed two items that were on my list so I feel a little better about my sewing plan. I was a little concerned that I was veering far afield since my last two projects appear no where on my list! I have updated my list to include the "Spring Fever" coat and a dress from the tea dyed fabric. The only problem is that my life gets very busy after this weekend so I don't know how much sewing I will get accomplished!

Well, I am off to get in a few hours of sewing this afternoon! Thanks again for all of your comments, suggestions and encouragements!

I have spring fever!

See after making the new fabric and getting more spring/summer fabric in the mail (Thank Youuuu Fabric Mart and fabric.com!) I want to make spring stuff. Not the wool/cashmere stuff that I have cut out. I am worried that the temps are climbing and these pieces just won't be comfortable to wear now. So what is a girl to do?

I was surfing Sewing Workshop's new site and saw pictures of the Soho Coat.

Photo courtesy of The Sewing Workshop

Boy, do I want to make a version of that coat! I am going to Newport Beach, CA in two weeks for work and I need a great light coat for the evenings and the trip there and back. I am also going to San Francisco to spend the weekend with a friend and fabric shop but more (okay, probably much more) about that later!

Anyway, I was trying to figure out if I ordered the pattern if it would get to me in time to make it up. I wasn't quite sure. So mentally I started to shuffle through my catalogue of TNT patterns. And I thought of this OOP Butterick one:

I know that it doesn't look exactly like the Soho Coat but it has a hood, I have made it before so the adjustments would be minimal and I could enhance the pattern.

Here is the original version made from some red fabric from where else - Fabric Mart!

I would line the new version, add some side seam pockets and maybe an inner pocket and add a front placket for buttons. I thought of using one of these two fabrics to make this inspired version.

Choice No. 1:

I think this is a wool/rayon blend that I got from Emmaonesock last year to make a spring coat with and this might make a pretty funky loose coat. What do you think?

This is the Choice No. 2:

This is a medium weight cotton stretch that I purchased from Fabric.com - two years ago????

Okay so which one do you like? Comments would truly be appreciated! Thoughts, suggestions on how to make it look "inspired by" the Sewing Workshop pattern would also be appreciated. You have until Sunday to vote on your favorite. And then I will work on making the coat from the fabric that receives the most votes!

And until I get a consensus, I guess I will go back to working on the beige wool/cashmere pieces!

So...........On your mark, get set......vote!

Fabric Manipulation

I have admitted just about everywhere publicly that I stalk Fabric Mart...I even have a post about it here! A few days ago, I posted a fabric that I purchased from them a white/red floral linen blend.

This fabric really struck a cord because I had recently seen this ad in several of the fashion magazines:

I liked the fabric more than the style of the garments and I wanted the fabric. So I decided to tea dye the fabric.

I have tea dyed once before ~ a 100% cotton knit fabric which I made into a cardigan with very good results. So I didn't expect to have any difficulties dyeing this piece. What I love about tea dyeing is that its a gentle way to manipulate fabric. It softens the background or original color of the fabric ~ giving it a sort of antiquey look.

To tea dye, I use a big rubbermaid bin full of scalding hot water and about 30 packets of Lipton tea and leave the bin to reside in my bathtub for at least 24 hours.

I swirl the teabags around and get the mixture as dark as I can before I submerge the fabric. To make sure that the tea dyes or stains the fabric equally, you should stir the water frequently. This is to avoid different sections of the fabric rising to the top of the tea mixture and not getting as much exposure to the stain as the submerged areas will. When I tea dyed a piece of fabric the first time, I did it over the weekend so that I had plenty of time to constantly stir the dye mixture. This time I was a little over anxious to get results so I stirred it several times before going to bed but the next day I basically left it alone. Well I did have to go to work to make money to buy more fabric.... So there are sections of my fabric where the stain is lighter and then there are some blotchy stains. At first I thought I would need to redo this process but after drying and pressing the fabric, I think these imperfections give the fabric character.

Do I know what I am going to make with this fabric? No...... Am I satisfied with the manipulation of the fabric?! A very hearty yes! Sometimes I just have a need to make a fabric more my own! And this process definitely fulfilled my need.

Here is a picture of the dyed and pressed finished piece:

Just a little different from the original!

So before you ask, here is the tea dyeing recipe:

1. Fill a large container with very hot water.

2. Add tea bags - regular old tea bags work best.

3. Swirl the tea bags in the water to get the darkest color possible.

4. Remove the tea bags and then add the fabric.

5. Leave for at least 24 hours, stirring the mixture frequently.

6. Remove fabric from water; rinse the fabric in cold water.

7. Wring the fabric as dry as possible. Place in dryer to set the dye/stain.

8. Press the fabric when you remove it from the dryer.

A new piece of fabric is now yours! You should try this. It is a great way to change an undesireable piece of fabric into something new!

Techniques Turn Me On

As I was pressing down a hem on a dress, I was thrilled by the technique that I had used to hem the dress. I didn't use the standard fold up a certain amount, press and hem technique. I used a Cynthia Guffy hemming technique on this garment that gave it a couture finish.

www.dictionary.com - defines couture as:
1. The business of designing, making, and selling highly fashionable, usually custom-made clothing for women.

2. high fashion designing and dressmaking

and dressmaking as the craft of making dresses.

That is how I feel about the CG hem technique. It is a custom-made technique that sets my garments apart from regular run of the mill RTW. And it is the sum of different techniques that I use that make sewing so much fun.

We all know that you can purchase a pattern, some fabric, the notions and follow the pattern instructions and turn out a wearable garment, most times. But what makes sewing fun, challenging and fulfilling for me is the techniques used while making the garment. It is the techniques that "up the ante" on the finished garment. It is the techniques that differentiate my custom made piece from a RTW piece ~ sometimes even a designer RTW piece.

Its things like hong kong finishes instead of a serger or zigzag finish. Or adding a rayon hem tape to the bottom of the hem to clean finish it and give it a better appearance. It is adding fusible interfacing to the zipper seam to prevent the zipper from rippling after its inserted. Underlining in the best fabric available, interfacing (testing to make sure that the interfacing provides the hand that you want in the finished garment!) Techniques! Techniques that give you a wonderfully well crafted garment when its finished.

Yeah, techniques turn me on. And I am always searching for and trying to learn a new one that will take my sewing to its next level! So how about you? What techniques really float your boat? What techniques can't you do without? Or has your sewing progressed to the point where you understand the need for more advanced techniques than the pattern instructions provide?

Do sewing techniques turn you on?

No Sewing Today

Ah, spring is definitely in the air! How do I know this? No sewing today! My sewing definitely goes in spurts. I sew constantly, almost every weekend and most 3-day weekends during the winter....from December to March. I take a break when spring first arrives, and then fit sewing into the busy spring/summer weekend activities. By August, I am again devoting quality time to sewing - it must be that back to school thing. And during the fall, I sew some, I do some things with my family.

So at the first hint of spring, this indoors girl definitely wants to be outside in the warm breeze. But do I go outside today.....nooo! My children all have plans and so I am home alone. What do I do? Read a book. A trashy beach read by Jackie Collins, "Lovers & Players." That was actually a pretty fun read ~ well for trashy books, anyway! *lol*

But since sewing is never far from my mind, I have spent quality time with my computer reading all the sewing sites; sewingworld, patternreview, and now artisans square. I have even read quite a few of my fellow bloggers sites. And I have a few random sewing musings....

Have you noticed the trend to count the amount of fabric purchased and the amount sewn? I have noticed this at the bottom of quite a few posts on patternreview and in some blogs. It is very interesting because it makes you wonder how much sewing the yardage represents. Or am I the only one who thinks this? When these stats first started appearing, I thought that I would add them to my blog but being computer challenged and wanting to spend my available time sewing, I decided instead to keep a list in my sewing journal of the pieces I made this year. I think I understand the reason for the stats but I just want to know how many wearable garments I have completed. How about all of you? Are you keeping stats? And if so, what stats are you keeping and why are they important to you?

I have to admit that I have also been in a real fabric acquiring mood. At first I thought that I should be ashamed or slow my buying down. But lately I have realized that I have ideas pouring out of my brain, left and right. Some are inspired by fabric, some by photos in magazines and some by seeing pictures of completed garments. So for me to stop purchasing fabric at this point would almost negate my creative flow. And while the creative juices are moving I guess I will just go with it. Its not like my kids are starving or the lights are out or anything. And I am keeping the UPS men employed!

I am also having ideas of manipulating fabric. Every once in a while I go through a stage where I want to duplicate, replicate or make my own fabric. I have a piece coming from Fabric Mart that I am more interested in tea-dyeing than I think I am in making something from it. I mean I do have an idea for it but the thought of tea-dyeing it really has me going.

Here is the piece:



So those are my fabric musings for today. I hope that if you got to sew today that you enjoyed the journey!

Hate fitting but love to sew?

That's me! I hate fitting but I love to sew! What a contradiction, right?

This installment is all about working with a new pattern. I mean I really should use some of the "new" patterns I have purchased? I shouldn't just use the TNT patterns over and over again, right? I should be adventurous and take the journey or nightmare trip (whoops excuse me, I really only have enthusiasm for what I sew! *lol*) explore new territory, learn a new technique, pull some different tissue paper out of new pattern envelopes!

Anyway.......I have started working on my new jacket from Butterick 3978 which the pattern envelope describes as a semi-fitted, unlined jacket has collar, shoulder pads, princess seams and long sleeves. I am using an 18, 20, 22 pattern and of course, my pattern pieces now look nothing like the pieces that came out of the envelope.

First, the finished back length of the jacket is 23 1/4 inches. Well, that's a no-no! Not if I don't want the jacket to end right in the middle of my butt ~ not a pretty sight! So I lengthen all the jacket pieces three inches. Then since I haven't worked with this pattern before, I add an additional one inch to all the side seam allowances.

Next shoulder seams ~ 5 inches as a finished shoulder seam fits me best. So I cut down the shoulder seam by using Cynthia Guffey's method of slicing down the middle of the shoulder pattern and then overlapping the pieces and taping it closed. I remember to overlap the pieces so that the shoulder seam measures six inches unfinished! Because believe me I have cut it down to five inches before and wondered what the heck was going on!

Okay, those were the easy adjustments. Next up is the bicep adjustment to the sleeve. I hate the fact that almost all patterns made in larger sizes unless they are women's sizes have small biceps! What's that about! Come on people admit it! We plus size women have fat in some unusual places. Mine happens to be in my arms! Can the pattern companies work with me here so that I don't have to totally redraft a sleeve pattern?! I usually like a slash and cut method that I learned from Cynthia Guffey but I have to admit that I have been influenced by the patternreview women and the Palmer & Pletsch book, Fit for Real People, has been residing on my bedside nightstand. So after reviewing the P&P way and checking out CG's method in her booklet, Precision Measuring & Pattern Alterations, I use a little from both! Hey, I am an equal opportunity fitter!

This is one of those times where a fitting challenge turned into a design opportunity. As I was working with the fabric ~ it's kinda plain ~ I knew I would need some detailing or embellishment that would make the pieces sing. I didn't really want to do a distinctive embellishment because then the pieces would lose their functionality or mix and match ability. So I was thinking of a subtle embellishment. I have decided to use a topstitching stitch that I have used before that gives a garment distinction but still makes it able to mix and match well. I will use stitch pattern number117 on my Janome 8000 for the topstitching. But I digress...this was about the sleeves.

I did add two inches to my bicep measurement by using CG's method but then after reading about adding a seam to the sleeve to add even more width without enlarging the wrist measurement ~ a lightbulb moment occurred! Or what Oprah refers to as "Aha moments!" I decided to add the seam and then add a topstitching detail to the sleeve. Wow, a fitting challenge that has become a successful design opportunity! That's what I love about sewing! That's when I feel that I am accomplishing something different, making the garment mine! Yeah, that's the thrill!

So I now take my totally disfigured pattern pieces and lay them onto my fabric and cut! Yeap, cut that sucker out. No wearable muslin. No muslin at all. Just cut out my good fabric with the 1" side seams. Did I hear a gasp? Did someone go, "ohmygosh!" And did someone even think, boy did she mess that one up! Well, maybe I did and maybe I didn't. I do have two additional yards of this fabric ~ after cutting out my TNT pants and skirt patterns. So I do have the ability to mess up and recut. But what is the fun of sewing if you just muslin? And how do you know how your fabric is going to react if you only muslin? And here is the $100,000 question, why are you afraid to cut your more expensive fabric? I mean its only fabric! Granted, I only paid $12.99 p/yd for this (which by the way is a lot for me!) But how will I ever learn if I don't just do it!

So, here is the question of the wee hours of the morn....Are you afraid to cut into your "real" or "expensive" fabric? Why? Are you afraid of losing "the investment"? But how much is it really worth if it just sits on your shelves, in your totes, or in your fabric closets unmade? Can you learn to be fearless in your sewing? Are you willing to engage in the adventure and learn something new, make a mistake, or end up with a great new garment? You know the opposite of a wadder is a wonderful, wearable garment!

Let's make a pledge together, right now, this very minute!

Let's learn to enjoy the sewing journey!

Let's lead new sewing adventures and remember, that there is more fabric where that original piece came from!

Anybody with me?

Artisan's Square Update

Artisan's Square and Stitcher's Guild has run into problems with its host.

In a nutshell, the host has pulled the plug on the forum because the membership exceeded 100 people.

DragonLady is in negotiations with that host and is also searching for another host site to move us all to. So sit tight and keep working on those sewing projects, so you'll have a lot to post about when the site comes back up!

Keep checking in here on this 'blog or at SewingWorld in the SW Feedback section, SW Refuge Announcement topic for further updates.

"Cashmere Dreams"

I have been away for most of the weekend visiting colleges with my middle DD. She will have decisions to make about her future soon and I have done my part! Along with catching a very nasty cold but on to sewing....

I am home from work today nursing this very nasty cold and since I have not sewn for several days now, I am suffering from withdrawal. My wool/cashmere fabric is on the cutting table with several pieces pinned to it to be cut out but the temperatures predicted by the weatherman is playing with my mind. Also when I look out my kitchen window, the tree facing the parking lot is starting to bud and the surrounding trees have a green hue to them. Spring is coming!

So I grabbed my notebook to check out my Spring Sewing List that had been compiled earlier to see if maybe I shouldn't unpin the wool/cashmere and fold it away for fall. But after going over my list, I realize that the pieces I have picked to work on will be fine for the beginning of spring. Even if I only wear them once before it gets really warm, they will make great early fall pieces. So I am going to continue on and finish these pieces.

Now that I have a digital camera and will be taking pictures of my finished garments in real time, I have named all of my "collections" for spring/summer. Naming them has also made it really easy to keep track of my projects. The wool/cashmere pieces are being called, "Cashmere Dreams" and will consist of:

- A jacket from Butterick 3978

- My TNT short flare skirt. I have retraced the pattern and added just a little more flare to the skirt panels so the bottom hem will be a little more flippy.

- a pair of lined straight leg pants from my TNT pattern

I will use the emmaonesock circle rayon/lycra blend fabric for a t-shirt. I debated whether or not to make a tank but decided for the time of the year that I want to wear these pieces that a t-shirt will provide more coverage & warmth.

I know many of you think of this as mini-SWAP sewing but since reading a book by Judith Rasband, I have always tried to capsule sew. By sewing in SWAPs or capsules, you end up with mix and match pieces that are wearable with each other and hopefully other things in your closet. Over the years I have found that I usually purchase the same type of colors in both RTW as well as fabrics. So I sew in color families. Mix and match pieces also work for my lifestyle. I don't have much time in the morning so I need for my clothing to come out of my closet in pieces that work together without much thought. And since I sew 99% of my work wardrobe, I solve this issue in the planning phase.

So I am off to take a dose of cough medicine so that I don't cough all over my fabric and then I will pin and cut out my pieces. Hopefully, I will have time later this week to work on the construction of these garments.

But first, can I ask a question or two? How much planning do you put into your sewing? Do you make sure that the piece or pieces that you are considering making work with the other pieces in your wardrobe? Or do you have a closet full of orphans?

SW Refuge

Hi my friends at Sewing World have asked me to post this message and a link to my blog. So if you are a member of Sewing World and it should suddenly disappear contingency plans have been made. Below is the message that was posted to the Sharing and Inspiration folder earlier today:

Dear Sewing World Friend,

Kathryn (fzxdoc) and I have been among the ever-widening circle of Sewing World’s users who are worried that it seems to be teetering ever closer to the brink of disappearance. I don’t know how familiar you are with the history of SW, but we have been concerned that there is an increasing likelihood that SW will just grind to a halt. Threads can now only go 1/3 of their former length, they disappear without warning, many features, such as Search, no longer work at all, and many of us have gotten the dreaded white screen more and more often.

Since we have come to cherish SW and the Sharing, Inspiration and Project Photos (SIPP) thread especially, we put our heads together to come up with somewhere to go in case of a crash or just a continuing spiral down. As you know, we looked at the PatternReview and FabricMart boards as well as exploring some other avenues.

We are very pleased that a SW poster called DragonLady has come to our rescue! Perhaps you remember her from SW; she did not post on SIPP. During one of the flurries of posts on the Feedback topic (which is supposed to get action by Scott and Krista) people were lamenting the many problems besetting SW. She has run and runs several boards, and explained a little about why SW was unstable, etc. and offered to do or help do an upgrade on the SW board. No response from those in charge and nothing happened.

DragonLady has now put up a board we can use if needed and anytime, actually. For the time being, SWRefuge. (The name will probably change eventually, and suggestions are being solicited on the site.) Kathryn and I have been helping to test it, and we like what we see. It has wonderful, modern features, and we hope you will like it.

We hope you will bookmark this site’s address, and check it out at your leisure. There will also be links to the SWRefuge site on the sidebars of Liana, Mardel, and Carolyn’s blogs, in case you need the address later, and so that everyone can move seamlessly to the new site should it become necessary.

We hope you will not think that we have been precipitate, or that we or DragonLady are trying to usurp SW. It is simply our wish not to lose all of our wonderful friends and relationships that have been forged on SIPP that has galvanized us to take action.

I hope you will register at the new board.

Here is the link: http://wickenburgarea.com/sw/index.php

Hopefully I will have a click link on my blog soon!

I be wearing my new pants tomorrow!

I finished them! I will be wearing my new pants and RTW twinset to work tomorrow. See, it wasn't a bad thing that I stopped at Fikret Fabrics on Friday evening because I have a new pair of lined pants!

Here is a very tired me modeling them:

And here they are on the hanger. I think I like this view best! I made them with my tried 'n true pants pattern and I wasted a lot of time this weekend or they definitely could have been finished faster!

Just wanted to show you that not all fabric lounges in my fabric closet. Some of it never even makes it there! Along with making these pants, I put the hem in my SWAP dress and sewed in the shoulder pads. I am just too tired to get gussied up and take a picture in the outfit, but I will soon. And I will post pictures here, first!

The other thing I did this weekend was update my sewing list so I would know where I am going next. I mean now that I am done swapping and even though I know what I want my next project to be, you see that I made a pair of pants this weekend instead! That's why I need a sewing list, it helps keep me on track of what I want to make so that I don't go off on sewing tangents. Not like that hasn't happened! Okay, does it sound like I'm rambling. Sounds like that to me. So it's off to bed so that I can go to work in the morning to make more money to spend on kewl fabric!

The Last of my Saturday Morning Shout Outs!

My final shout outs are dedicated to the young 'uns ~ or at least this is how I think of them! And please, understand that I don't mean any offense by it! I can just see where you are beginning your journey with sewing and fabric and I so admire your passion.

Lately I have been very impressed by two young women who post to Pattern Review. I love their sense of style and how sewing is an adventure for them! They are fabricaholics ~ which make them wonderful people in my book! And they are game for a sewing challenge ~ another sewing trait that I really admire.

So my first Saturday Morning Shout Out is to Cambric Tea. She sews out of Pennsylvania and only has 16 reviews so far on Pattern Review:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?ProfileID=4735&search=search
But the patterns she has chosen to use work so well for her figure. It is obvious that she is developing a love affair with fabric and she is stretching her creative wings! If only I could borrow her husband and his photographing skills for a weekend! So here is a shout out to you! Keep doing what you are doing and I will be here watching and cheering you on!

My next Saturday Morning Shout Out is to Stacy from www.stacysews.com. Stacy came to my attention during the Hot Patterns craze. I was amazed and in awe of the fact that she muslined and muslined and muslined until she got a working pattern. And when it worked, boy, did it work! I know that I wouldn't put that much effort into a pattern! *smile* Stacy has 55 reviews at Pattern Review. Reviews of not only clothing for herself but for her children too! You can see them here:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?ProfileID=10288&search=search
So my next Saturday Morning Shout Out is to you Stacy! I can't wait to see where your next sewing adventure will take you!

My final Saturday Morning Shout Out goes to the Women on Sewing World who are participating in Julie Timmel's 2006 SWAP Contest! Ohmygosh, are you just wonderful, talented and gifted women! First to Julie Timmel, who has run this contest for three years and encouraged all of us to go beyond ourselves with our sewing. To think things through and plan, to spend quality time with our sewing machines and fabric and to build the camaderie she has built through sewing. Julie, you are truly a gift and I so appreciate your efforts!

To all the women who are participating in the SWAP, you are truly an inspiring group of women. My first thought was to name each and every one of you and then I was horrified that I might leave someone out! So know that if you began and gave up, if you are somewhere stuck in the middle, if life's issues have forced you to quit before you finished, if you are racing to the finish line, or if you have finished and moved on to other projects ~ I so admire your attitude, your willingness to try something new, your love of sewing and most definitely, your dedication to sewing!

As some of you know my beloved father died last summer and I had a really hard time picking my sewing back up. SWAP really helped me find my first love again and for that and all of you beautiful women presently SWAPing I say a much heartfelt thank you!

This will be my last Saturday Morning Shout Out. Not because there aren't many more wonderful women sewing out there who encourage me daily but because it is time to move on! However, I want to take the time to compliment and encourage any women who puts thread and needle together to create something! If no one has said it to you today ~ you are a joy! A wonder! An absolutely amazing person who is creative and has an ability that not every one can do! Pat yourself on the back. Give yourself a hug and know that you are truly admired for your uniqueness!

More Fabric...and it's not my fault!

Yes, I know. I don't need more fabric but....it's Thread's fault. Y'know the magazine! I was reading my copy of it on the 42nd Street cross-town bus and I got to the pattern review article. There staring at me was a wonderful muted striped fabric and it reminded me of a striped silk duppioni that I had seen at Fikret Fabrics. (Located on 40th Street, closer to the 8th Avenue side) Sooooo, since I had a half hour before my bus left the Port Authority for New Jersey, and what could it really hurt if I moseyed over and took a quick peek! I mean I obviously couldn't spend any real quality time in the store because I had to be home before 7 pm.

This is what I am telling myself as I cross 40th Street that I can't stay long. I still need to make a stop at the Duane Reade (area drug store) and I need to be in line for the bus 10 minutes before it leaves so that I could get a seat and not have to wait another half hour for a bus! Okay, this is what my rational mind is saying. Now that greedy fabric area of my mind is going, new fabric, new fabric, we are going to see more fabric. Fabric that can make things, fabric that make dreams come true...new fabric, new fabric, we are going to see new fabric.

To make a long story short, in just 10 short minutes I found and committed myself to these pieces.

2.5 yards of a beautiful menswear 100% brown wool with a light green stripe for $4.99 per yard. How could I leave this! I have a twinset in the same green that is in the stripe. I have some brown ambience lining just waiting to go with this. If I make these into pants this weekend, I will have a new outfit for work on Monday! Yeap, had to buy this!

I had originally only wanted 4 yards of this 100% worsted wool grey/blue windowpane plaid but since there was 4.5 yards left, I got it for 4 yards. Again for the grand price of $4.99 per yard. This will be a short, flare lined skirt and of course a pair of lined pants. I am in love with this new short flared skirt pattern that I have and want to make several hundred of them. They look good on me and work well in my work wardrobe. So of course since it already knew what it wanted to be, it had to come home with me too! And since arriving at home, it has announced that it believes that there is just enough to make vest fronts and did I know that I had a really kewl grey lining remnant in the lining bin that would make backs. Three coordinated pieces, yes! But when will I get time to sew them! Oh well, they can join the sewing ideas list. *sigh*

And finally, yes, there is more.....

This is a lovely home dec brocade in winter white. Please pardon the picture taking skills ~ I am definitely a newbie. I had seen this in the store before when Fikret's starting carrying home dec goods at a price of $25 per yard. I quickly scooped up 4 yards at the grand price of $5 per yard. It was just too beautiful to leave in the store. You know how you have to always buy a fantasy piece ~ well this is my fantasy piece. I dreamt about what it could become all the way home!

And finally there was some Elmo flannel for $2 a yard that came home and is already in the washing machine so that it can become Elmo PJs for the youngest DD. Right after Dora, Elmo is her bestest friend!

Now, I know you are wondering did she make her bus? Did she stop at Duane Reade's? Or did she just give in and catch the next one? I made the bus. I was in the store a total of 13 minutes! Can you believe that! 13 minutes! I was walking in the door of Duane Reade 2 minutes later and was standing on line for the bus 7 minutes before it loaded. See I was suppose to have this fabric! And here is the absolutely, amazing part.........are you ready?! All of this fabric, plus tax only cost me $58 dollars and 89 cents.

So I am off now. Off to sew. Off to dream. Off to be looking good on Monday! *LOL*

Oh and by the way, it isn't my fault! It's Threads' and I am sticking with my story!

Doll Clothes

I know that many people sew things other than clothing...for instance quilts, home dec, etc. But I am strictly a garment sewer. However I love to make doll clothes. For the last few years I have been making my friend's niece doll clothes. What I love most about this is that they give me free rein. I am allowed to make whatever I want. So I usually come up with a concept and tell my friend about it and I am off to the races.

For this year's birthday - I was inspired by an 18"doll outfit that I saw on the Simplicity Patterns website. So here is my version of a Chanel suit for an 18" doll. Ssshhh! We know its for an American Girl doll!

The skirt and jacket are made from Simplicity pattern 4416 from a tweed boucle that was just recently on Fabric Mart's website. I added a small white binding that was in my stash to the jacket, skirt and hat. The shoes, handbag and hat were purchased from Newark Dressmaker's Supply/Home Sew's Catalog. They are located in Bethlehem, PA. (phone: 800-344-4739).

Here is a shot of the linen dress that I made to go with the suit. The linen is left over from an outfit I made for me. I buy most of my linen from Habib Fabrics in NYC. They are located on 8th Avenue and are the best. If you get a chance to fabric shop in NYC, you should stop by!

I am sure that my friend and her niece will be happy with this gift! At least I hope so! I have a few other pictures of some Bitty Baby Doll Clothes in my Yahoo Photo Album.

Will I be able to sew until I am an old, old lady?

Today another large package of fabric arrived. As I sat inventorying the contents and thinking about what I would make with each piece, I got scared. I mean for a minute my heart actually stopped. What if I have accumulated so much fabric that when I am an old, old lady I won't be able to sew it?

What would I do? Does anyone else worry about this? I mean I am a relatively healthy 46 year old woman and technically I should have loads of sewing time left on this earth! But what if I get old and I don't want to sew any more? Could this happen? Ohmygosh, ohmygosh, ohmygosh, noooooo!

Could I not want to spend quality time with my sewing machine? Or planning wonderful outfits to wear out of the house? Creating cute doll clothes that my friends' little girl's adore playing with? Even inspiring my own child to go to her room and make her sewing machine hum in conjunction with mine? And maybe even continue to sew and teach her child to sew, too?

What if I am physically unable to sew when I get older? Will I try to learn new techniques or will I abandon my habit? God, this sounds so morbid but all of these things flashed through my head this afternoon.

I really, really, really want to be planning an outfit as I am headed out of this world and into the next. But is that a realistic assumption. Will I get to old to sew?

Are you ashamed of your fabric collection?

I need to ask this question because it seems no matter what sewing board I go to someone is discussing their stash and how overwhelming it is! I have to admit that I don't understand this position. I don't understand why you would feel a need to explain your fabric collection to others or even to yourself. I don't understand why you can't have a collection of fabric from which to create. I don't understand why someone would complain, worry or diss the collection that they have taken so much time, effort and money to compile. I don't understand?!

I love my fabric collection. I have taken the time to carefully store it and categorize it. I have lovingly purchased each piece. I have hopes and dreams of wonderful garments to be made from these pieces. And I get so much joy each time I open the door of my closet and stand inside it. I can actually hear it singing lovely songs to me. Am I crazy? Maybe...definitely crazy about fabric.

I love the color and feel of the textures. I love how it handles. I love sewing it and I love owning it. It is one of the best parts of sewing ~ turning a flat piece of fabric into an awesome three-dimensional garment.

I have likened owning fabric to the paintbrushes and paint that an artist uses to paint an amazing picture or portrait. Or the gardening tools that a gardener uses to till and grow a beautiful garden. Or even the pages and computer that an author uses to create an imaginery world that we all want to journey to. I mean we all create things, right?! So why wouldn't you have many different pieces of fabric, thread, notions and patterns to use to fashion your own wearable fantasies!

Okay, I admit that owning a lot of anything can be overwhelming. But how have you stored your precious treasures? Are they just out and laying about shouting to you and interrupting your creative flow? Are they stored in a dark and dingy place and treated like second class citizens? Or are they treated like the precious tools that they are?

So are you ashamed of your collection? Or are you invigorated, challenged and deliriously happy about it?

And here is a peek at mine! Just a little peek but if you want to see more detailed pictures, please feel free to check them out at my yahoo album.

More SWAP News

I think I am on my last piece...but then I have said that before! Anyway, here is the first picture of the dress, before cutting it off and beginning the embellishment. This is my morph piece for the SWAP. It is the t-shirt pattern that I lengthened, added fullness to and a fold over pleat in the front, a full length zipper to the back and bust darts. I don't know if all of that is apparent in this picture. I am also leaving the short sleeves off and have added facings to the armholes.

Then to emulate the pinstripe that is in several of the other pieces, I ran three lines of triple stitching in brown thread down the front of the dress. On top of the three lines of machine stitching, I hand stitched beige pearls down the first and third rows. In the center row I hand stitched gold seed beads. I really like how the finished embellishment turned out. It will definitely give the dress a distinctive look but still be in style especially since beading and embellishment are still big looks this spring in RTW.

Here is a close-up picture of the embellishment. Now all I have left to do is add some fusible interfacing to the hem so that I can do the three rows of hemming that Cynthia Guffey recommends. I really like using this hemming technique on garments that I am putting a lot of work into. The hem lays flat and provides an anchor for the dress. A really kewl technique. After this is done then I am moving onto other pieces.

I just got more of this wool/cashmere blend from Fabric Mart and I am going to make a pair of lined pants with a very straight leg, a jacket (Butterick 3978), and I want to modify my flare skirt just by adding a little more flare to the skirt pattern so it will have a nice swirl to the skirt.

Butterick Pattern 3978 ~ photo courtesy of www.voguepatterns.com

Here are my fabrics together.

The green circle print is from emmaonesock and will be a t-shirt to go under the jacket. I have some czech glass buttons on order in a brown/brass combination to go on the jacket. These pieces will workwith some of my SWAP pieces but will also stand alone. I am not thinking of them as SWAP sewing but as my next sewing project! It is time to move on!

Singing my SWAP Song ~ Part 2

This is an update on my SWAP sewing. I am almost finished with the eleven garments that are required for the SWAP 2006 contest that Julie Timmel of Timmel Fabrics is featuring at Sewing World.

Here are pictures of my last two garments. The cardigan has been lengthened to dress length and is made from Burda OOP 8869. I love this pattern and have made so many pieces from it. The tie dyed knit was found this summer at H&M Fabrics on 35th Street in NYC. The paprika rayon knit was purchased from Timmel Fabrics at the end of January 2006. I love how two pieces of fabric purchased at different times can come together and make a great outfit. What you can't see in the picture of this cardigan is that I got the great idea to line it with a brown ambiance rayon lining because I want to wear it as just a dress with either the t-shirt under it or a tank top. I can see some of you wincing, as you should. It was a bear to sew a woven to a stretch fabric. So why didn't I just buy a stretch lining....to lazy! And boy did I pay for that mistake! It took forever and several attempts to get the lining and the knit to play nicely with each other. But I am satisfied with the final results. Note that I said satisfied and not happy! It is not warm enough here in the lovely NY metro area to wear this outfit as just a dress and top yet but I will be sporting the three pieces shown above soon.

Here is a close up of the t-shirt:

I love the color of the t-shirt and this is my favorite t-shirt pattern. I have another one, a v-neck version from a discontinued Sandra Betzina pattern, that I make a lot of but primarily in the summer. This is such a quick and easy sew, especially in this fabric. And these tops add so much versatility to my wardrobe.

Finally here is a shot of all the pieces I have made so far without the dress. It is still laying on my sewing table waiting to get embellished.

From left to right:

1. Sewing Workshop Mission Tank in beige cashmere wool blend from Fabric Mart.

2. Brown pinstripe wool/linen blend from FM in a modified skirt pattern of a TNT skirt pattern.

3. Brown herringbone wool/poly blend from collection in the same modified skirt pattern.

4. The cardigan and t-shirt

5. Brown herringbone wool/poly blend in TNT pants pattern.

6. Burda OOP 8869 cardigan from beige cashmere blend lined in beige silk print.

7. Beige silk print Sewing Workshop Mission Tank lined with nude stretch lining.

8. Brown pinstripe wool/linen pants in TNT pants pattern.

9. Brown/rust sweater print from EOS (emmaonesock) in Burda cardigan pattern.

10. Beige rayon sweatery fabric from Fabric Fixx in t-shirt pattern from Burda pattern.

11. Kwik Sew jacket 3334 in the brown pinstripe. This still needs finishing details but I really love the suede piping on the collar that matches the color of the pinstripe.

The final piece is the dress that I am working on. It is a morph of the Burda t-shirt pattern. It has been lengthened, a back zipper added, back fisheye darts and front armhole darts added. There has also been a pleat added in the front of the dress to remove some of the fullness. The pleat has been stitched down with 3 rows of stitching to reiterate the pinstripe found in several of the other garments. I am adding rows of small beige pearls and golden seed beads to the front of the pinstripe stitching. The dress is presently a little longer than calf length but I am going to cut it off today....just don't know how short! I will most likely end up swapping the rayon t-shirt out of the collection so that I have just 11 garments to enter into the competition.

I am glad that I did this. These garments add a lot to my wardrobe and since I have more of the beige cashmere/wool blend coming from Fabric Mart, I plan on adding another pair of pants, skirt and top to the mix. That will finish up this round of sewing for me and I will move onto something else. Hopefully the Dolce & Gabbana knock-off skirt pictured in my post ~ "The Art of Creation." Not like I don't have a list of 10 or 12 other things to make up, too!

Patterns are a roadmap

Patterns are a road map for your journey into the creative 
Vogue Pattern Magazine - April/May 2006 edition 

I read this today and thought this is soooo true! It really rang a bell in my creative soul. And then of course, I took it a step further and thought that I am really learning to enjoy the journey and the process

What do I mean? 
I use to be the biggest believer in the "fast, faster, fastest" method. If it couldn't be completed in one sitting it was not worth making. I invested in books on this topic. Read every magazine article I could get my hands on about it....practiced techniques and learn to cut multiples and production sew so that I could sew a garment as quickly as possible.

I actually beamed with pleasure when I would tell people that I could make an unlined skirt in an hour ~ from cut to finish. A lined skirt in an hour and a half. I did omit all of the shortcuts I took and that sometimes I didn't get everything finished exactly right! But hey, I was wearing it out the door and I looked good if you didn't look too closely. 

I was a fast, faster, fastest disciple until I took a Cynthia Guffey class. When I had the nerve to ask a question about how quickly could you finish a garment if you added three rows of "hand" stitching to the hem? Now you know hand stitching is a four letter word to the fast, faster, fastest crowd! So Ms. Guffy trained her eagle eye on me and told me that I should just buy cheap clothes at Target if I wanted to rush through the process. By the time she finished telling me about how I should enjoy the process because not only was it a hobby but it was a craft that deserved to be done to the best of my ability, I wanted to crawl underneath the stage and come back out when everyone had left the building!

But the words remained in my head!  I realized that there was so much truth in her statement, that the garments that I was proudest of were the ones where I took the time to plan them out and think them through. Taking my time and making sure that all the i's were dotted and the t's crossed. 

The ones where I actually enjoyed all of the steps, not rushing through them to get the outfit finished and missing something. The ones where I actually sat down and hand stitched that hem instead of quickly running it up on the sewing machine. Where I didn't wear an outfit that I had to be stitched into because I didn't have time to make buttonholes and sew buttons onto the jacket!

I also realized after hearing her words, that I should be paying closer attention to the details that spoke quality in a garment. I wanted to learn how to underline a garment. I wanted that 3 part hand stitched hem. So now, I consciously try to enjoy the journey in each garment I make. I don't always use a new technique I've learned but I do take my time. 

I now work the sewing order out in my head. I linger with my fabric and let it speak to me. I am willing to sit still sometimes and just hand sew. I baste seams together to insure that the plaids or stripes match before I take my pieces to the sewing machine.

I enjoy the journey. So are you a fast, faster, fastest disciple...no need to be ashamed if you are? Or are you taking the journey and enjoying the process and having the time of your life?

I was inspired today

It's been a long week...haven't felt much like sewing...I feel like I am in this holding pattern waiting for something to happen.

And then today I was inspired. It was a simple thing really. Read two sewing reviews over on Patternreview and something clicked. I could feel it physically turn over in my soul. One review was of a pair of pants but it was the fabric that was used. It made me think I have something similar to that. I could make a pair of pants this afternoon from my TNT pants pattern. The first click.

But then in another post on Patternreview someone included a link in their post to a pattern and my mind did a "stand to attention." I thought I have some fabric like that! Went and looked in my fabric closet and there it was! I got off my behind and quickly serged the ends and threw it into the washing machine. I printed out a picture of the jacket thinking I know how I would make it and there it was I was inspired....

So I am off to sew....because finally I am inspired!

Stop Me, Stop Me Now!!!!

Help! Help, Help, and more Help! I can feel it coming on. The black mists that start to enshroud me and then the clearing and the bright lights that say, "buy me, buy me!" I am in the throes of a fabric panic buying attack! Usually I can visit a website. Look at the offerings...maybe even click a few things into the cart but eventually I close the cart out before entering my credit card number and move away from my computer.

But I have reached that annual event - bonus time! And before I add more money to my 401K and put some in my savings account to pay for yet another child to go to college, and purchase some things for the house....there is the pull of the fabric purchase.

Do you remember in Ulysses and the Odyssey those sirens that sang and drove the sailors crazy...I can hear them! Really they are at Fabric Mart sweetly singing, "you know that silk will go great with that tweed you already own." They are at emmaonesock saying, "you could tie-dye that cotton fabric and make a really kewl cardigan." They are at fashion fabrics club singing a dang gon aria, about the wonderful embroidered linens.

I stood in my fabric closet yesterday. I petted my beautiful treasures already contained there. And then, I heard it again...a softly whispered chorus of we need more friends to come and join us! The singing, the whispering, the gentle voices calling to me...it is sending me right over the fabric edge.

I know that I need to be strong. I know that my fabric closet doesn't have much space left. And why, oh why when I speak to the significant other does he smile and say, we can always get some of those pull out boxes for under the bed! What's wrong with him! Doesn't he know that I don't have much will power left! I need help.

Please someone, anyone stop me before I fabric shop again!

Sewing Lists

Do you have a sewing list? I realize that I have all kinds of sewing lists. And that I am always compiling one or adding to one and I constantly have one in my purse. So what is on my lists....hmmmmm lets see.

First there is the pattern list:
This is a listing of all patterns that I have read about either on one of the sewing boards, in a review or just from visiting an internet site. Sometimes it is a pattern that I have searched for in the online catalogues to match a garment that I saw in a fashion magazine. This list is dated ~ so that I know I am always using the latest version and is separated by pattern company. I carry this list with me at all times. Never know when I am going to have a pattern sighting and need to check my list to see if it is one I am searching for! I started this list so that when I went to the pattern sales at Joann's, I would know exactly what patterns I was searching for without having to guess or purchase a twin of a pattern I already owned. And I am sure that we are guilty of that one!

Then there is my fabric list:
I tend to purchase fabric at certain times of the year in large groups. At Christmas time/early January from Christmas money. At bonus time ~ can't just spend my money on things I need, want definitely plays a part in this! *smile* In August ~ back to school shopping or planning my fall wardrobe. Those are the times that I make my largest purchases so I keep a running list of fabric types that I am looking for and specific colors that I want to add to my fabric collection. I am really hoping to semi-retire this list (refer to the "So much fabric, so little time!" post for an explanation).

My inspiration list:
Is not really a list but a compilation of pictures, sketches, magazine ads that are pasted into the inspiration book that I carry with me at all times. I think of it as a list because there are details there that I refer to when making garments, sometimes I have even worked out the sewing instructions for how to make a garment work. When I am bored, waiting for an appointment, sometimes even waiting in line, I can pull my inspiration list out and while away the time looking at things that make my creative juices flow.

My sewing list:
This is probably my most important list. At the beginning of each season I make a list of items I would like to sew. The items are not listed in any particular order ~ just ideas that I have culled from the fashion shows, fashion magazines, catalogues and ideas left over from my list from the previous season. I also add to this list my classic pieces that have either been worn out from use or that I now need in another color. So things like a classic lined straight skirt in black linen will be added if the previous one is past the point of wearability. During the season ideas are added or subtracted, refined and hopefully deleted from the list because they have been created. The sewing list always starts out on lined white pad and then after several revisions it is added to my sewing notebook. It has now become a permanent record!

My notions restocking list:
I keep this list because I usually restock notions twice a year - January and August. I like to have my supplies on hand so that when I am ready to sew I don't need to stop to go buy interfacing, thread, needles, etc. This is probably my most informal list. Thread is written down by color numbers since I mostly use Gutterman thread. Other things are just written down by type ~ for example...1" elastic from ND (Newark Dressmakers Supply). This list is dated and started fresh after each January or August. Again this list is stored in my sewing notebook and kept with me at all times.

I guess all of these lists make me sound anally organized but I am not really! *lol* Actually this frees me up to dream, create and make the clothing that I want. But the most important thing about the lists is that they all reside in one 5"x7" spiral notebook that stays in my purse. It is with me everywhere I go...even when we travel on vacation!

So do you keep sewing lists? If so, how? What do they contain? If not, why not? And if you don't, do you feel disorganized and without a road map for your sewing? Or are you just not as obsessed and compulsive about your sewing as I am?

Saturday Morning Shout Outs - 3

It's time for my biweekly Saturday Morning Shout Outs again. This week's subtext is about inspiration. When I see the garments that these women create, the hairs stand up on the back of my neck! They cause my breathing to get shallow, my pulse rate to rise and me to find the nearest color printer so that I can have a picture available to go along with the notes I am taking. All of these women post to Patternreview (link on sidebar) and have a series of patterns they have tested. All have a sense of who they are and it shows in the works that they produce. I personally know none of these women but boy would I love to spend a Saturday in their sewing rooms talking to them about what makes them create!

So here are this week's Saturday Morning Shout Outs!

Debra H. is first...I noticed her reviews about a year ago on Patternreview. And the reason that I noticed them was that she used color! Lots of color and interesting fabrics! Wow! Those are two primary inspiration triggers for me! She sews out of North Carolina and makes the kewlest things.
Here is a link to her reviews on patternreview:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?search=1&ProfileID=17650&heading=All_Reviews_By_Debra_H. There are 76 of them. Get a cup of coffee, get comfortable and be amazed at some of the wonderful garments she has produced. So Debra here is a Saturday Morning Shout Out to you for using the best colors and most interesting fabrics to create some awesome garments!

Ann Smith is next, I am totally amazed at what Ann can create in beautiful California. She sews from all the pattern companies, making things that I think look like garbage on the pattern envelope into total works of art. I know that she has exhibited some of her garments at the Quilt Show and I understand why she was asked because her clothing is like candy for the eyes! I love her sense of adventure in her sewing and always get excited when her name appears next to a review at Patternreview. All 118 of Ann's reviews can be found here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?search=1&ProfileID=997&heading=All_Reviews_By_Ann_Smith.
And if you just want eye candy go to her Yahoo website: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/annleesmith@sbcglobal.net/my_photos and just browse.
Ann also has pictures of her sewing room in her Yahoo album. I could see myself sitting with Ann there talking about what makes her sew and why. Ann, thank you for always bringing joy to me when I see your reviews! My second Saturday Morning Shout Out is to you!

My final Shout Out goes to Barbara Elfman Bell. When I first got internet access I was surfing and looking at all of the websites and picture galleries. Barbara's is called Cat Fur Studio (http://mysite.verizon.net/Cat_Fur_Studio/). What made me really take notice of Barbara's garments were two things. One she worked in a corporate type setting, same as me, so her garments really spoke to the way I dress daily. But most importantly, she shops at one of my all time favorite fabric warehouses ~ Jomars! I will not turn this into a breathy salute to Jomars but suffice it to say that I know Barbara has access to some very kewl fabrics. And anyone who can have that much fabric inspiration yet turn out such wonderful workwear deserves a shout out in my book. Barbara has 36 reviews at Patternreview:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?search=1&ProfileID=91&heading=All_Reviews_By_Barbara_Elfman_Bell
and she sews a lot of Christine Jonson patterns. I love how Barbara uses CJ's patterns with their clean, simple lines to create amazing workwear. So Barbara you are my final Saturday Morning Shout Out!

I hope after perusing these women's works that you will be as inspired to create as I am each time I see something new of theirs.

Thank you ladies for bringing such sewing joy and inspiration to my life!

Do you count the cost?

I have noticed that when we sewers find a great bargain on patterns, fabric, etc. we immediately compare it to ready to wear. For example, I got the fabric and pattern for $15.95 but the jacket I was knocking off sold for $155.95. Didn't I get a great bargain? Isn't it great that I sew?

See I use to be that way...comparing apples to oranges ~ when a friend told me that I wasn't doing a fair or comprehensive comparision. At first I was really annoyed, thinking who does she think she is? And I sew way more than she does, so I know what I am talking about! But you know how truth is...it always manages to stick with you and then worm its way back to the forefront of your thoughts reminding you that it is truth!

What she told me was that all costs or everything purchased to make the garment should be counted ~ even the thread that you may already own should be counted towards the cost of your garment. That is the true worth of your garment.

So my question today is...do you count the cost of your garment? I mean some sewers don't. Some sewers don't care. But others of us do wonder where our sewing pennies are going. So if you count the cost, what do you count? Do you count thread costs? Do you include the costs of interfacing, buttons, snaps, etc. Do you make a list of all of the supplies that you used to make that absolutely amazing garment? Y'know the one that everyone ohhhs and ahhhs over when you wear it. Or do you gloss over the cost? Or does it even matter to you?

So why am I bringing this up? Because I believe if you carefully detail the expenses that you incur in making your wonderful custom made garments, you will realize that you put not just your heart and soul into construction but your hard earned dollars. That this brings value to your garment and emphasizes it's worth!

So if you haven't been counting the cost ~ will you do so now? Is it important to you to know the true worth of your garment?

Singing my SWAP Song

"Or how to wrestle 6 yards of fabric into three fantastic wardrobe pieces!"

I have alluded to the fact that I was going to show some of what I was working on. I mean I may be a sewing commentator by day but I am truly an obsessed garment sewer by evening and weekends! So listed below are the garment pieces which have invaded my mind and won't let go!

Take 3 yards of a tie-dyed rust colored knit found for $1.99 per yard during the summer at H&M Fabrics in NYC (pictured above). Add to it the paprika rayon knit (to the left) from Timmel Fabrics. Then use Burda OOP #8869 as your jump off point. And what you get is magic!

This journey began because I needed additional tops to finish my SWAP pieces, which I mentioned in my very first post. The plan is finally coming together like a good hook in a top 10 R&B tune. You know that chorus that you just can't stop humming all day long...well that's what's happening with the three new pieces I am creating. They just keep playing over and over and over in my mind.

The two fabrics shown above are very important to my SWAP but after coming up with the twinset pieces I still had fabric remaining so I decided to add one more piece. I am going to make a version of the red v-neck wrap top in the center of the pattern pictured below. One sleeve and part of the front wrap will be from the tie-dyed fabric and the other side of the wrap, the second sleeve and the back will be from the rust fabric. I am hoping to find at my favorite trim store, Daytona Trimmings in NYC, a stretch velvet or velour fold over trim in rust. I will use that on the neckline and sleeve hems for the final detail!

Butterick 3344

www.voguepatterns.com

So here is the first almost finished piece of the three (the beginning of the hook). It is a dress length version of the cardigan pictured above. It will have bands of the rust knit at the sleeves, down the front and as the hem.

The last piece will be the t-shirt featured in the Burda pattern but instead of one neckband, it will have two. One in the rust and one in the tie-dyed fabric. These garments added to the bottom pieces and the cardigan jacket that I have already completed will bring me to 15 items. 4 more than I need for the SWAP.

So let's recap...first my SWAP collection was called "Pinstripe Magic." I have renamed it. It is now "Pinstripe Magic Falling into Spring." I renamed it because it now has some great transitional pieces that can be worn during early Spring but the entire collection is still based upon the linen/wool blend pinstripe that I originally purchased from Fabric Mart.

I now have 15 pieces in various stages of completion and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I know almost all the words to the first verse of the song, definitely got the hook down and am working on learning the words to the second verse. As soon as that second verse is completed I will be able to sing the entire song....and maybe get that darned song out of my mind. So I can sing another one!

To be continued.....

Musings...

By the weekend, I normally have so much that I want to say about my sewing. But this weekend, my mind was full of stuff. It was fashion week in New York City and I have been avidly following the collections, reading newspaper articles, watching the shows on television and reading blogs about the fashion shows.

I am also a huge fan of Project Runway and since the final four contestants showed at Fashion Week, I have invested quite a bit of time into reading blogs about their collections and reviewing pictures. And finally, the spring catalogs have been hitting my mailbox with loads of inspirational pictures of spring garments.

Until Saturday evening it had been so mild in the Northeast that I was starting to catch a little spring fever. Not anymore...24 inches of snow has a way of changing your mind about that! *LOL*

My original intent had been to write something about inspiration and to include a few pictures of garments that were really appealing to my creative juices and a few shots of items I was working on and then including some links to women's sewing that inspired me. But I think I have a case of inspiration overload! My mind has seen so much fashion this week, that my inspiration circuits have been short circuited! Okay, say that three times fast! *smile*

So does this happen to anyone else? Do you ingest so much that you have a hard time putting it out? Or does your sewing reflect a need for wearable clothing rather than a need to create beautiful garments? See, this just goes back to why do you sew? But I know that isn't the question here! It is more like, when do the things you see, touch, hear, affect you so much that it stymies your creative ability? And how do you turn those things off, so that you can get in touch with your inner voice and hear the things that you need to create? Also, how many of us hear our inner voice? How many of us follow it when sewing? Or are we sewing journeymen? Just putting together the techniques and never letting our creative senses take the lead to make fantastic, magical garments? Tell me, are you a sewing journeyman or a sewing artist creating dreams and magic with your sewing machine?