Sunday, March 25, 2012

The Sewing Room Refreshed

Please note that I didn't say final!  There are a still a few more things that I want to do to the room but they are small things and of course involve more purchasing...*sigh*


Full view of the room from the doorway


Shelf to the right of the fabric wall

Computer wall and inspiration board

Lulu by the 
fabric wall

TV & bookshelf by the window

Bookcase across from
the computer table

Patterns, pressing items
by the front door

Ikea piece next to computer table

The sewing pictures hanging up
(Thanks Hellene!)

Sewing machine & serger table


*I want to add some storage behind the sewing machine/serger to store some notions so that they are neat and out of sight...not bunched up and junky like in the picture above.  


*Add some clear storage boxes to the bottom shelves of the fabric shelves, just in case of flooding.  This is something that I'm doing to all the shelving in the room.  I would rather be prepared than have to worry about this later on especially since this is a basement sewing room.


*A shelf on the wall, up by the ceiling, on the computer and sewing machine walls to store magazines and other items.  I just want to maximize the storing capability in the room.


*Curtains for the windows made from the same fabric that the curtains for the fabric shelves have for a finished look to the room.


satiny olive polyester purchased from FM years ago


There were some questions on the posts:
Melody asked:
"If I was planning on securing the shelves to the wall for safety?"
The shelves have been tied together but no I didn't secure them to the wall. It's a basement room that my grandchildren don't have access to and if the shelves fall over while I'm upstairs, well naturally I would be upset. But I guess I would just start all over again...hopefully that won't happen!


Toy asked:
"Are you going to do it by color?"
Yes it is sorted by color except for the shelf with the fabric prints. I know that some people like their fabric stored by seasons or fabrications, but I think in colors and I've found that storing it that way works for me.


Debbie asked:
"How do I prevent permanent wrinkling/fold lines in the pieces at the bottom of the stack?"
One thing is that all of my fabric has been folded and refolded several times in the last few months. Second, all fabrics are pretreated before using and so far I haven't had a problem removing fold lines. Let's hope this holds true! *smile* And yes, I have a few pieces that are at least 25 years old in the collection but they are very few.


Judi asked about which sewing machines I use:
The Project Runway Brother machine that you are referring to from an earlier post was purchased as a back-up machine for my Janome 8000. Then I was gifted the Janome Memory Craft 6600 which I'm currently sewing on and my daughter needed/wanted my Brother so I passed it along. My primary machine is the 6600, my backup machine is the 8000 and my serger is the Babylock Imagine.  I'm still toying with purchasing the Janome Horizon (which the website is saying is retired???) Guess I need to be a little more proactive about that...yeah, right after that bathroom is repaired!


I'm almost sure that someone asked what shelving I used...these shelves were purchased from Lowes in two sizes. Two of the larger 74" high and one of the 54" high version. These match the shelving already in the room and added to giving it a cohesive look.


And a comment or two...
Both Teddylyn and Aunt Allyn commented on moving and setting up new sewing areas, first congratulations on moving! Next, even though I planned out the sewing cave before moving in, after working in it for a couple of months, I found some things lacking. Around December I started rethinking the usage of space in the room since I was actually sewing in it and could determine what worked and what didn't. That was when I really noticed that the bins where a temporary solution and that they made the room feel dark and closed in. So they had to go. My advice to you is to sew in your room first to determine whether or not your inital plan works for you. You may need to revise it.  


Finally, plan, plan, plan...it's what made this weekend go so smoothly. I knew what I wanted because for months I'd been looking at sewing rooms on the internet to determine what additional features I wanted/needed for my room.  There are alot of beautiful sewing rooms out there! I'm really in awe of some of them especially the ones that have wonderful windows and are light & airy, filled with lots of storage space. I found that I was most attracted to the quilters rooms because they openly display their fabrics.


Then there was Shannon's (Hungry Zombie Couture) beautiful new sewing space, specifically her fabric closet that also heavily influenced me. She has written two great posts about her fabric closet, the initial one and a follow-up one on how she folded her fabric. For a minute I was so blinded by her fabric organizational skillz that I even attempted to track my fabric. That has gone by the wayside, because like some of the commenters said I just don't have time to invest in keeping track manually of my fabric collection...but I am still in awe of her organizational skillz...mine just aren't that evolved! *smile*


Lastly, I'm glad that I was able to help every fellow sewist who got to show her husband/significant other that there are others that have way more fabric than they do. But I have to tell you that I thought I had more fabric than I actually do. I'm surprised that I've gotten it all onto the shelves with only five additional bins remaining and those bins contain my ponte collection and two are full of sweater knit/coating fabrics then a bin of green fabrics and another of blue fabrics.  The deep stash as Karen calls it! 


You may have noticed that there isn't much space on the shelves left for me to grow the collection. This is on purpose.  I'm not saying that I'm never purchasing another piece of fabric, cause that's just unrealistic! But I do want to sew almost exclusively from "The Collection" for the time being. Let me give you an example...the other day I was trolling the internet and all of my favorite online fabric sites for a khaki silk twill. Well guess what I unpacked in the last few days...a khaki silk twill.  I pretty much own some of everything that I could think of or want to use to emulate a designer garment or a sewing idea...so for now one of my primary sewing challenges will be to use fabric from "The Collection."


Now that the cave has been refreshed, it's back to sewing for me! The Rachel Dress Part 2 still needs a couple of hours worth of work especially now that the temps have gone back to normal March like weather. It will be perfect to wear to work this week.


...as always, more later!





Saturday, March 24, 2012

Day 2 - The Great Fabric Migration 2012

I'm almost done getting it all on the shelves and I'm giddy with joy.  Yeap, downright smiling from ear to ear, giddy!  I have about six more bins to put on the shelves.  As you can see from the pics below, I have A LOT of fabric...much of it I remembered, quite a bit I'd forgotten. It was great to touch it all again and it's been two days well spent.  


I'm definitely gaining some more space in my sewing cave.  I will be able to find fabrics easily and won't be tempted to repurchase them...something that had become a growing fear in the last month.  And now that I have to redo one of the upstairs bathrooms, I can spend money there, knowing that I have plenty of inspiration and creative materials available to me in the sewing cave.


Now, if obvious fabric consumption upsets you, I suggest that you flip out now! I would hate to be the one responsible for you falling out over my joy. *LOL* Because it is with much happiness that I present Day 2's photos of The Great Fabric Migration of 2012:





This shelf is just print fabrics both knit & woven
and is my most favorite shelf of all!


If you've lasted, I'm almost done and will be putting up the cutting table either later tonight or after church tomorrow.  I've moved several of the plastic bins that stored notions and supplies under the computer desk so hopefully the room will look even more spacious and less crowded. My daughter is coming back tomorrow to help me finally hang my inspiration cork board and the sewing pictures I purchased last March.


There will be final shots of the re-done room and a special surprise tomorrow!  I'm glad I'm almost finished and actually think that I might sew Sunday evening and Monday...


...as always, more later!  

Friday, March 23, 2012

Day 1 of the Great Fabric Migration 2012

After getting the new shelves together, my daughter and I started to empty the bins.  I have to admit that after we got the shelves built, I freaked a little.  There were sooooo many bins and it didn't look as if all the fabric from the bins would go on the shelves.  I'm glad my daughter was here with me to hold my hand and calm me down...


Anyway, we are still in the process of loading shelves...before my daughter leaves to go home to her family...especially since I'm calmer now...I just wanted to give a short intro before I let the pictures speak for themselves...


emptying the bins out of the room

the cutting table in pieces


the shelves built and waiting for fabric

The migration has begun!


There will be no sewing going on this weekend.  I don't want to try to rush this process.  I just want to get the fabric placed on the shelves and the furniture back in place so that my sewing cave is once again the calm, restful retreat that it was before I began this journey.


...as always, more later!

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Spring Sewing 2012

Ah the warm breezes are washing over me and tomorrow the temperature is suppose to be 80 degrees in NYC.  Such a nice day and I have to waste it at work! *LOL*  So of course, my mind has turned to spring/summer dresses...and I've made a list.  A little designer inspired, a little pattern inspired, and some fabric inspired.


The Rachel Dress Deux has not been finished.  I did get the lining in but there's still at least two hours of work left on it to make it wearable.  I will get it finished this weekend since the temps are going back to normal levels next week and I want to wear it at least once before it needs to be put away for next fall.


I've decided to put the shelves together and start to load fabric onto them on Friday and Saturday.  Sunday and Monday I will sew.  That's what I'm saying now...who knows what I'll really feel like on Friday morning.  Already the fact that I have to take my cutting table down and move those bins around is making me nervous.  But, I really want to be able to touch, feel and see all of those luscious linens, border prints and rayon prints that live in my collection.  


(that's fabric purchased or pulled from the bins since I've moved into the cave)


I'm ready to sew spring!  So stay tuned because I have four days off and I'm planning on spending most of it in The Sewing Cave!


...as always, more later!







Sunday, March 18, 2012

A Little Bit of Orange

This ad from Talbots landed in my email mailbox this weekend...


So of course I flipped into the Talbots site to peruse the garments pictured...and as I looked at them I realized that I'm a little ahead of the curve on this spring trend because I've been sewing with orange for a minute now.  Back in 2006, I sewed a SWAP with orange as the basis of the collection originally called "Brown and Orange Circles and Stripes SWAP" but renamed "The Prada Dreamsicle SWAP".


After thinking about it and roaming through my Flickr account, I decided to see how many orange garments I actually own.  Notice I didn't say go through my closet, LOL!


I made this orange striped dress in 2006.  Put it in the closet and didn't wear it for another 3 years.  I've worn it several times in the last couple of years and it's become a favorite:




The skirt from the same collection is still in the wardrobe though I didn't wear it last summer...but I think I'll be pulling it out to wear this week!  I even still have the cardigan and tank top which is similar to the Colette Sorbetto Tank.




The twinset has bitten the dust.  It's no longer in the wardrobe and I think I shipped it off to Good Will but I'm not sure.  The cotton knit started to stretch out and the look didn't go with my new workplace since I made these pieces as part of a business casual wardrobe in 2006.




Fast forward a few years and I made an orange linen dress during my September 2009 sewcation.  Then last year, I finally used a linen fabric purchased in 2006, to make this skirt:




The cardigan is RTW, as well as, this cardigan worn over The Whitney Dress.




Two skirts, two dresses and two cardigans...except for a top I'm thinking I have this color covered!  Oops, I do have an orange print top:




This one is from my winning 2010 SWAP collection, Midnight at the Oasis.  From what I can remember and that can be shaky since the fabric collection is still in the bins, I probably only own a couple more pieces of orange fabric across all the seasons.  I will, however, be purchasing the orange wedges pictured in the Summer Trends post since I have quite a few pieces that they work with.


I'm adding the lining to my second version of The Rachel Dress and hope to finish it up today...so pictures soon.


...as always, more later!











Friday, March 16, 2012

Are you a precise sewist?

I'm doing a lot of hand stitching on The Rachel Dress.  And as I'm taking my time to make sure that I'm getting my stitches in precisely, I had a thought.  Am I a precise sewist?  If I answered honestly, I would say no.  I don't measure as much as I wing it.  Too many times I go with the flow instead of breaking out a ruler or measurement tool to insure that everything is perfect.


So the Question of the Day is...Are you a precise sewist?  Or do you just wing it? If you are precise, does this hinder your ability to create?  Or does it enhance your journey?  If you wing it, is it because you have the knowledge to make it work?  Or just the opposite?


Talk to me, I'm interested because generally I'm not a precise sewist.  I'm a by the seat of my pants girl who intuitively knows how something works but has taken the time to acquire some knowledge (notice I didn't say all knowledge) about my craft.  So talk to me and tell me what you think!


...as always, more later!



Thursday, March 15, 2012

The Trends I want for Spring 2012

I still don't know if I will finish The McQueen Dress or not...I'm still deciding...but I have immersed myself in the last two issues of In Style Magazine so I've got a list of "trends" that I would like to incorporate into my spring/summer sewing.  So without further ado, here is my list:


1.  A Tangerine Colored Garment 
I have loads of orange fabric in my collection (just have to get it out of a bin!) and since it's the color of the year, I definitely want another garment made from this color for spring/summer...not a dress probably a skirt...since I already own an orange linen dress...see below.


2.  Floral Prints
I will probably make more than one piece using some of the floral fabrics I've collected.  I love floral prints. A few more summery pieces to mix and match with the core professional wardrobe I've already assembled would be great.




3.  Clashing prints
These clashing print pieces really intrigue me...I will have to figure out a way to use them and make them work in my corporate wardrobe.  Right now I'm thinking of a floral and a pinstripe combo something that makes the point without being over the top!


4.  Colorblocking
Been there, done that, quite willing to do it again only using the bright colors favored this season!




5.  A pop of color
The magazines are showing it as a pair of shoes, or a purse, scarf or top in a vibrant shade worn with dark solid colors.  I can do that ~ no problem!


6. Vibrant colors
In summers past I've made quite a few dresses in bright colors...






This summer I want another bright grape colored dress in a sheath version.  I've owned the perfect piece of grape colored rayon blend fabric for several years.  This is the year it becomes a garment.

7.  A lace piece
I own the fabric and I know what type of dress I want to make it...I just have to make it!




8. A dress
Okay that's a given! *LOL*  But I would like to use several of the 1000s of dress patterns I already own plus a few more that I've recently purchased.  Also, I'm cruising this summer so I will need some pretty vacation clothes...clothes that I want to make...which will include some maxi dresses.


9. A pair of wedges
Yes, this is a style that I've worn before but they are classics. 




This is the pair I'm thinking of purchasing...a pair of patent leather wedges...so kewl and updated!


All of this to say that spring is here and winter has quietly faded away, so I'm making up my spring/summer sewing list.  Stay tuned and see how many of the trends I actually get made up!


...as always, more later!









Tuesday, March 13, 2012

A Few Newsy Bits

Just a few things that have been running through my mind...


Ann of Gorgeous Things wrote this awesome post about choosing fabric other than cotton for garments.  Along with the fantastic pattern suggestions she makes at her online fabric store, this post is another wonderful piece of information for a sewist working out how to make the correct fabric choice for her garment.


I just ordered the Plain and Simple Essential Shift Dress and Top and the Deco Vibe Deceptively Skinny Patchwork Skirt.  I watched Trudy's YouTube Video (which you can see at the bottom of the pattern information) and got so excited about the versatility of this pattern.  This will definitely be one of my summer dress patterns!


Speaking of summer, spring has sprung in my corner of the world.  It was almost 70 degrees today, the trees are blooming, the flowers are pushing up towards the sky and people have shed their winter coats.  Now I'm not complaining that we had a mild winter after the last two miserable ones.  The weatherman said that last year we got 71" of snow and the year before around 52"...that's a lot of dayum snow!  So to experience one where the temps never fell below the high 20's was a treasure.  All of that to say that I think the Rachel Dress will be the last of my fall/winter sewing.


This is a little distressing to me since I really do want to make a version of The McQueen Dress.  I guess I could go ahead and make it up but already I've got visions of bright colors, vivacious prints and linen fabrics dancing in my head!  


Speaking of spring, I've started to pull out a few of my knit dresses from last year to wear to work this week.  This is what I wore yesterday...




My Christine Jonson dress received a lot of compliments and quite a few "is that a new dress" comments.  And one of my bosses went boy do you have a lot of clothes because I don't remember that from last summer...yes...this is true, I have a lot of clothes! *LOL*


I've already picked out my Easter Outfit...the fabric, the patterns and notions are already in-house.  I just have to make some time...which leads me to the fact that I have a 4-day weekend coming up.  But I can't decide whether I should assemble the shelves and get the fabric out of the bins or whether I should sew.  The only thing is to sew spring, I need the fabric from the bins unless I go on a shopping spree...and right now I'm just not feeling like it.  Okay, stop laughing because seriously I have a yearning to touch and organize my collection.  I just don't know if I want to spend a good sewing weekend putting it together...*sigh*...decisions, decisions.


I will let you know what I decide to do...


...as always, more later!















Sunday, March 11, 2012

The Rachel Dress 2 - Construction Details

I found this fabric in the craft store that masquerades as a fabric store years and years ago...when I still deigned to cross it's threshold.  It was in the 50% off area and I loved the appliques on the fabric so I bought it and it's been in the collection ever since waiting it's turn to become something wonderful.




I pulled it out when I was inspired by this Jason Wu dress last fall:


It really called out to become my Fall/Winter version of The Rachel Dress. Then after looking at and blogging about the Chanel Spring Couture 2012 line with the emphasis on pockets, I knew I had to get this dress finished before it became too warm to wear it.


So here's some details:
Fabric Prep:
I steamed the heck out of the wool to pretreat it.


Pattern Prep:
Yes, I ironed the pattern pieces - *LOL*


Construction:
You would think that careful placement of the lace appliques would be a priority when laying out the pattern pieces. However, after examining the fabric I realized that except for not getting some right over my backside (which I managed to do anyway!) the randomness of the appliques meant that I had to have a "go with the flow" attitude about the applique placement. 


This was also one of the most ravelly fabrics that I've worked with in some time! It shed whenever it moved until I serged all of the edges and even then I had to constantly clean my serger blade and stitch area because the fabric made alot of fuzz!


Also because the fabric was so soft I had some challenges with the neckline stretching out during the serging process.  I thought I would be okay, but as I worked with the dress, the neckline became even more distorted.  I really should have dealt with this issue at the beginning of the construction process. However, I did manage to bring the neckline back under control.


  
*First I measured the wayward dress front against the front of my TNT dress pattern piece:




*Then I measured a piece of stay tape against the front of the pattern piece. *After cutting it exactly (which is important!) I pinned it to three crucial points on the dress' neckline.  
*At each corner of the shoulder and in the center point of the dress, the stay tape was pinned down.  
*Then using a larger stitch (stitch width 4) I slowly stitched the stay tape down, easing the excess fabric in.  
*Finally, I pressed the stay tape flat.




As you can see, this tamed the wayward neckline.  I then added stay tape to the back neckline and when I sewed the shoulder seams together it was sewn into those seams also.  I treated the fabric like a knit since it liked to grow at certain stress points.  And yes, I know I sewed the stay tape to the front of the garment instead of the back, but since I will be adding a lining to the garment, I don't think it makes much of a difference...unless of course I broke one of the major sewing rules! *wicked grin*




The center back seam was fused with a 1" strip of the baby interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics, to stabilize it for the invisible zipper insertion.  This is a really old tip but just in case someone isn't aware of it ~ I cut about a quarter of a yard of fusible interfacing into one inch strips and save them in a ziplock bag for times like these.  That way I always have some on hand.


Finally a shot of the dress on the hanger sleeveless...


Front with the pockets

back view with those
appliques near my backside!


The dress will have short sleeves and I will add a lining.  I'm trying to decide if I will add some black rayon bias binding to the neckline and sleeve hems...ah decisions, decisions!


...as always, more later!







Friday, March 09, 2012

Cardigan Follow-up

There were quite a few questions about the seam down the back of the B5760 cardigan.  My first response to the question was, "Why not?"  My second response is a little more involved.  Of course any time you add a seam you add a fitting opportunity.  I do admit to adding seams to garments so that I don't end up wearing large expanses of fabric on my plus size body.




However, about 12 years ago when I first started making cardigans, my friend Colleen, suggested that I put a center back seam in my cardigan.  I, of course, was appalled because RTW cardigans didn't have center back seams.  Colleen in her wise way simply said was I trying to get RTW fit or was I trying to fit the garment to my body.  


from a twinset made in 2008 with a back seam

from a twinset made in 2010 
w/o a back seam

So, I've pretty much lived by those words of wisdom...quite a few of the cardigans I've made have a center back seam.  If the fabric has an interesting pattern or design, I don't put a seam in, but that is rare.

Trena made a statement about homecky looking cardigans and I have a few suggestions to help avoid that look...


Fabric Choice: 
I think its easier to find fabric that looks like RTW sweater fabric now than when I first started making cardigans.  And that should be your first question when you consider using a piece of fabric to make a cardigan - would I see one like this in the store?  If the answer is yes, then use it.  If not, then toss it back and save it for another project.  


Second part of the fabric/RTW question is what level of RTW are you knocking off?  I try to sew higher end garments rather than something I can buy in WalMarts, Jessica London, etc.  You know those upscale places where a cardigan costs upwards of $100 or more, that's what I'm trying to duplicate.


The third part of the fabric choice is the type of fabric.  I don't use cotton knits. I've never gotten a good result using one.  My preference is to use rayon/lycra knits.  I've also noticed that knits purchased at a higher price point work better except for the inexpensive, high quality goods that I get from Fabric Mart, as long as I don't use a cotton knit!  Some of my other favorite fabrics for cardigans are ~ wool blends, rayon jerseys, silk jersey, cotton lace, and wool jersey.


Interfacing:
Knowing what areas should be interfaced helps eliminate the homecky look...and then the type of interfacing used is also important.  I use a soft flexible knit interfacing that doesn't change the hand of the fabric but does provide some support for buttons and buttonholes.  My two favorites are:  The Pro Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply and from Farmhouse Fabrics, Baby Interfacing.  The front band is totally interfaced and then folded in half.  The sleeve hems are also interfaced.  And on most of the hems, I use stitch witchery either with a machine stitched hem or sometimes alone.  I'm always looking for that RTW look and the stitch witchery hem does that but you could substitute Steam A Seam and achieve the same look.


Button Placement:
The best thing about making your own cardigans is that you can decide the number, size and placement of buttons.  I usually place a button in the middle of my bustline and then measure from there up and down the button placket for button placement. Personally I like an odd number of buttons, it just looks more pleasing to my eye. Lately I've been using smaller button plackets as well as smaller buttons because it looks more RTW.  Also, determine if you want the buttons to stand out or blend in.  For this latest cardigan, I wanted them to blend in...




...for the one I made in the Lavender & Gray collection, I used buttons that stood out:




Additional Information:
~always check cardigan lengths in RTW to make sure that the length you are making is current.
~check button size and buttonhole placket size in RTW cardigans and use something similar
~sleeve lengths change from season to season...so I would check those also.
~sewing the cardigan together using flat sewing techniques also help to insure that you don't have bunchy sleeve heads and a homecky look.  I always sew sleeves in flat and not in the round.


I hope that some of this information helps someone make a RTW looking cardigan but with a custom fit!


Since it's the weekend, I'm once again going to attempt to work on one of my two dress ideas.  I'm a little more relaxed this weekend and hopefully will get to spend some quality time in the sewing cave.  The mild winter continues here on the East Coast with temps in the 60s next week...so I would love a new dress to wear to work!


...as always, more later!





Tuesday, March 06, 2012

Online Fabric & Notions Sources

Sewing Spots asked, "Where have you shopped online for fabric and notions?"


A better question might be where haven't I?  *LOL*  Even though I have access to the NYC Garment District, I am a huge proponent of online fabric shopping especially since quite a few sources are small business owned. 


So here is my list of online fabric sources that I have purchased from:
1.   Fabric Mart
2.   Fabric.com
3.   Gorgeous Fabrics
4.   Sawyer Brook Fabrics 
(btw - the Dogwood Majesty knit is up in the New Arrivals Section.)
5.   Emmaonesock
6.   Vogue Fashion Fabrics Club
7.   Marcy Tilton
8.   Fashionista Fabrics
9.   Trim Fabrics
10.  Fashion Fabrics Club
11.  Christine Jonson
12.  The Fashion Sewing Group 


This is my list and not all of them ship outside the US & Canada so I would check the policy on their website if you are visiting from outside the US.  I'm sure that there are others but some like Moods, is much easier for me to visit the bricks and mortar store than to place an order online.


My favorite online notions stores are:
a.  Atlanta Thread & Supply which have taken over by Wawak Supplies.
b.  Newark Dressmaker's Supply
c.  Home Sew
d.  Nancy's Notions
e.  Fashion Sewing Supply - interfacing
f.   Farmhouse Fabrics - interfacing
g.  Create for Less
h.  Thai Fabrics - silk organza


But I still purchase notions in the Garment District as I need them at Daytona Trimmings and Pacific Trimmings.  


I'm sure that others have some favorites that I'm not using...please feel free to leave a link in the comments section...maybe someone else would like a listing of these too.


...as always, more later!








Sunday, March 04, 2012

Butterick 5760 - The Cardigan

I've made a lot of cardigan sweaters using Burda 8869.  However, the pattern only has a v-neckline version and I've always wanted to make my own crew neck cardigans.  I've tried a few other patterns but none of them worked as well as the Burda one.  Last night, I got the bright idea to use my Burda TNT pattern as the basis for the Butterick one...and it worked like a charm!


Some details:
Fabric:  
2 yards of Mohair poly sweater knit from Fabric Mart


Notions:
Baby interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics
5 - 3/8" buttons from the collection


Construction Details:
I started with a size 22 - which to me is a slim 22 not a woman's size 22 especially since the finished pattern piece measurements are 45.5" at the hip line.  So I added several inches to the sides of the front and back pieces by layering the Burda TNT pattern, the actual pattern piece and a piece of tracing paper on top to make new pattern pieces. 


I also altered the armhole opening.  Because of this I used the sleeve pattern from Burda 8869 instead of the piece included in the pattern envelope.  That way I wouldn't have to worry about making alterations to the new sleeve's bicep area.


Some additional tidbits:
*I used stay tape in the shoulder seams to stabilize the knit.  
*Stitch witchery was used in the hemline, which was pressed together, before stitching it down. 
*Instead of cutting the back piece on the fold, I added a 5/8" seam allowance and sewed the two pieces together. 
*The pattern instructions tell you to slip stitch the neckband down but I carefully topstitched it instead.  
*I added an inch of baby interfacing to the sleeves hems and machine stitched them. 


After that it was an easy sew and would have been even easier if I had followed the instructions.  I kinda went my own way so my neckband and front band were improvised.  Really, I should have just followed the pattern instructions because I would have had a cleaner finish at the hemline.  Other than that it really was straightforward sewing...and I ended up with a new pattern for a crew neck cardigan so that's a good thing.


A few more pics:


the back and front views

close up of the crew neck buttoned

front button band

Finally, I know that yesterday I said that I was going to work on one of my three involved projects...but today I just wanted to sew something quick and easy...something that would let me feel the joy of sewing and bring a little settling to my creative soul...yet let me produce a completed garment.  Sometimes you just need a quickie...*LOL*


...as always, more later!









Saturday, March 03, 2012

Is it really March?

It just seems like time is marching by so quickly...before you know it...spring will be here!  And I've been so busy at work this week that I haven't thought much about sewing.  My equilibrium has definitely been off because I didn't sew last weekend...so some time will definitely be spent at my sewing machine this weekend.  But first some follow-ups...


Recently there were two Questions of the Day and I wanted to share some totals with you.  On the Press or Smooth post here are the totals:

Press only:  42
Smooth only:  17
Press and smooth combo: 24

I guess pressing your pattern first is what most sewists do!


The second Question of the Day was Construction Details Yea or Nay.  Here are the totals for whether you like just pictures or construction details - there were no votes for photo only blogs so here are the vote totals:

Construction Details:  82
Both:  29

I'd like to thank everyone who left such thoughtful comments on both blog posts!


I'm really digging (now that's a throwback word, isn't it!) Vogue 8786.  




This will be a perfect throw on work dress for me.  It's loose-fitting with seaming details which will give it the appearance of a slimmer look.  I want to make it out of a ponte knit from the collection.  But that is the easy look that's on my immediate sew list.


My next three projects will be more involved.  I'm not expecting to have anything completed quickly...The McQueen Dress, another version of The Rachel Dress and a surprise project.  One I'll talk about more when I've gathered all of the pieces...but it's something I haven't made in quite a while and never since I've started blogging.  I'm pretty excited about it and will share more later.


I've already planned my Easter Outfit.  The fabric, patterns and notions are all in-house.  I have my shoes and handbag.  I just need an Easter bonnet, though I know what I want just have to find it.  Since Easter is early this year, I will be working on it before the month is over...or into Easter weekend since I have Good Friday off...more about that later.


One more thing...
Thursday morning I received an email that Melody at Fashionista Fabrics was having a sale.  Being that I was having a difficult work week and fabric always makes me feel better, I moseyed on over and checked out the sale.  Here's what arrived this afternoon...



(I made a blouse from the orange/white version)

Palazzo Silk - this piece is
so pretty it makes my heart sing!

The sale has been extended to Tuesday, March 8th so use the code "ANNIVERSARY50" to get 50% off all the fabrics on the site (Burda Magazines are not included).  So go, shop and help Melody celebrate five wonderful years selling amazing fabrics!

Okay that's what's on my mind this first weekend of March...


...as always, more later!











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