Top 5 Sewing Hits & Misses-Highlights-Reflections & Goals

Every year Gillian of, Crafting A Rainbow, encourages us in the sewing world to reflect upon how our sewing has grown or changed during the year. I've willingly shared my ups and downs the last few years because I think it's a great chance to look back at what I've accomplished and to look forward to where I'd like to go.

Typically I've done two posts on this - one for my hits and one for my misses - but since I've experienced so many life changes this year, I'm going to add a third post on Reflections and Goals. 

So without further ado here are my hits for 2015 and you will be surprised to realize that two of them involve "unselfish sewing"!

Number One:

Dresses for Miss Sammy! Making these was such fun and I ended up making 10 in all. I didn't have to worry about fit and just went for it creatively.  The best part was when my daughter sent a picture of how she used the summer dresses for Miss Sammy at the start of school year! I will be sewing for Miss Sammy and Miss Lena more in the new year.

Number Two:

I made dresses for my daughter to wear to work using McCalls 6886. I've made this dress quite a few times already for her and I get more adventurous with each iteration. They went over so well that I'm making a couple more this weekend as her Christmas present...the only Christmas present sewing that I'm doing this year.

Number Three:

The McCalls 6559 maxidresses. It was a simple sew but I think these dresses reflect my lifestyle changes the most. Why? Because they showcase my love of vivid, bright prints, my love of dresses and my new casual workplace. Plus they allowed me to be well dressed in a casual funkysexykewl kinda way but not overdressed for work.

I even shortened the pattern and made a couple of funky versions again using pattern and print to make them work for me. I had ideas for a few more but the season got away from me so expect more next summer! It was a great yet simple garment to wear during the summer.

Number Four:

I'm sewing a lot of tops now and this was my favorite top pattern this year.  I'm sure that it will be different next year since I have a lot of top patterns and fabric sitting on the cutting table and percolating in the back of my mind. However, the top I enjoyed sewing the most this year was McCalls 7095. I've made it three times for fall/winter and have a few ideas for a couple of spring/summer tops.

Why was it my favorite? Because it gave me enough coverage (abdomen, butt, thighs) and it was fashionable and comfortable. I don't look like I'm wearing a muu muu over my leggings which is very important to me. Definitely making more!

Number Five:

I don't really have a number five. My wardrobe needs have changed so much in the last year that I'm walking a new path, daily trying to figure how I want to look but yet fit in with my work environment. So alternately I'm thrilled with my new wardrobe or worried that I will never sew enough to either fulfill my wardrobe or be creatively stimulated.

So this is my top 5 for 2015 - not much of a list but it's a start since I'm on a new sewing journey...

...as always more later!

A Circle Vest for Me!

I'm heavily influenced by my sewing sistahs on Instagram!  I love what is shared with such devotion to our craft that I'm always liking and storing away others ideas for future use.  But when Melanie @itsmelaniedarling on Instagram posted this picture, I immediately left a message asking how to make my own. 

So she graciously sent me a link via email and I used the instructions to make this...

It's worn over a RTW cashmere/silk turtleneck and black denim leggings

Why did I want this vest so badly?  Because I've already made one from a pre-designed wool panel from Fabric Mart last year and I ALWAYS get compliments when I wear it.

Because it's a heavier wool it's still too warm to wear now...this is deep cold wearing material here! I really wanted a lighter one to wear now.

Construction ~ Using the instructions, which are so simple to follow, I used a double-sided wool blend purchased from Fabric Mart earlier this year...and I have a few suggestions on how to make sure this works for you.

1. When I drew my circle, I used wax chalk that fades when you iron it. That was important because I wanted mine to be reversible - I can wear it on the black side or the gray side.
2. When measuring the circle, I measured the distance out at five points ~ the bottom, then about 4" over on both sides and then 2" from either side on each end.  I made sure it was the exact same measurement (30") from all five points.
3. Then I used my curved ruler to help me get a full circle ~ all the time wishing for a compass & protractor large enough to make the circle for me!
4. I followed the instructions exactly for the armholes and back but next time will make my back a little wider (like my Fabric Mart version above) and my armholes a little smaller. Even in the original blog post her armholes are very large ~ I would probably make them 8" around.
5. I added fold over black binding to my outer edges instead of serging the edges. This way no matter which side I wear it on it's got a finished edge. The armholes were serged and I went over them twice to make the serging dense. Now I know I could have adjusted my serger to do that but honestly it was faster just serging.

It was a quick sew taking just a couple of hours on a Sunday evening. The reason it wasn't faster is because I added the binding, then added two rows of stitching to keep it flat. I wore it to work the next day and got several compliments on it. 

Melanie, I have the same pin that you used on your photo on Instagram and if you look closely at my pictures, I used it on mine too!

Patent Leather pumps, Silver Sarah Coventry pin purchased from 

eBay years ago, Judith Ripka diamonque earrings from QVC.

BTW, the other day I saw someone on the street wearing one with sleeves. Now if I could get that going on I would be in hog heaven!  There will be another one of these because this version gives you the high low hem I'm loving right now, good butt coverage and a classy way to dress up casual wear.

A few more pics ~

Conclusion ~
I know there are several (as in alot) of patterns out now featuring the waterfall front because I own a couple of them. However, I liked the challenge of making this on my own and I especially love the way the collar drapes.

There is one other change I want to make when I make another one. I need to figure out a way to attach the side front inside so that I don't have to fiddle with it during the day. Otherwise, this is so easy to wear and adds the sophistication I'm looking for in my casual wardrobe.

Lastly, I took these pictures myself, wearing the outfit as I wore it out to dinner with friends instead of how I wore it to work. It's been awhile since I've taken my own pics and this time I used the remote...no walking back and forth...which I don't mind doing when I'm taking pictures inside but I think looks a little silly when I'm outside. My condo community has a lot of walkers (baby and dogs) and joggers using the pathways so I'm a little self-conscious about walking back and forth.

I'm pretty thrilled that I got quite a few usable pictures and hopefully will get better at taking them as the winter progresses.  My daughter and the troops don't come over as much in the winter (it's a little much for some of the younger ones) so you'll see more of my fledgling photography skills in the upcoming months. The good thing is that pieces will show up on the blog faster than before. The bad thing, I haven't yet perfected taking back shots without looking like I'm doing a series of contortions!

A Parting Shot ~

...as always more later!

It's been a minute since I bought fabric...

...and I probably wouldn't have but a combination of Black Friday sales and the need for a few more casual pieces influenced these purchases.  Specifically I want to try out some t-shirt patterns and I really need a denim dress and skirt added to my wardrobe.

However, I really didn't want some thin, cheapish, knit material and remembered that both Lauren and Lori made beautiful t-shirts from Organic Cotton.  So I headed over to their website.  They were having a 15% off sale for Black Friday, so I picked up white, black and gray cotton interlock.

When it arrived I was thrilled at how beefy and soft the fabric was...so much so that I'm going to buy more yardage because I love how my current t-shirt pattern fits and I want to make several more.

Trying out the SBCC Tonic Tee is next on my list because I'm finding that these long sleeve tees make great layering pieces under cardigans and jackets. So good t-shirt fabric is a MUST!

Of course there was also a Fabric Mart purchase.  They were running a 50% off the entire website with an additional 10% discount for Premium Members. I wanted some denim to make me a dress and a skirt. I have some denim in the collection but it's so little girl oriented and I really wanted plain darker weave denim.  So I bought two different cuts.

Which of course don't look so dark here!

*sigh* too much light when I took the pics...

I want to make the skirt using Vogue 1247 - but as a pencil skirt the way that Diana who blogs at SewPassionista by Diana made it.

photo credit: SewPassionista by Diana

I think this would look amazing in denim and I've seriously been jonesing on Diana's wardrobe. I love how casual but sophisticated it is. Plus isn't that skirt just awesome!?!

So 13 more yards were added to the collection...but I don't think they will last long. These were purchases to be used now not to become tenants in the collection.

Finally, I don't enter many fabric contests on blogs, Instagram or other social media sites...I mean I own a lot and those awesome pieces should go to homes where they're really needed.  However, over Thanksgiving Weekend, Elliott Berman ran a giveaway on Instagram and I couldn't help it...I played along. It's Elliott Berman people! Their fabric store is so well curated with amazing pieces of fabric and I've loved anything I've ever purchased from them...so I entered...and I WON! *Doing my happy dance*

Here's what showed up this week ~

From left to right: 2 yards of a viscose knit from Italy

2 yds of scuba knit from France & 3 yds of brocade from France

I have plans for 2 of the 3 pieces so I'm not even putting them on the shelf. The brocade will need to marinate but I'm over the moon that I won!  I nevah win! BTW, there's a Christmas giveaway coming up and it will be featured on Facebook and Instagram, so look for it!

...as always more later!

Really Another Top?

Yeah by the time I got to this one, I was thinking really another top?  So if you feel like that too, I understand.  Without further ado, here's another version of McCalls 7095.

Materials ~
Maroon printed velvet from Fabric Mart
White velvet
White burn out velvet

Background & Construction Info. ~
All of the materials are from deep within the collection. I actually had to hunt through several bins to find the velvet stash to coordinate the white velvet with the maroon velvet.

There are no new construction techniques in this top.  However, I did cut 2" off each side for a total of 8" deleted from the side seams. My first two versions are a little fuller and it was okay because they were made from rayon challis. For the velvet one, I just wanted to omit that extra fullness.

As I said before, this was the last top of the sewing vacay. I needed to finish the week with a tried and true top and not another involved fitting session. While it's interesting/challenging/necessary to sew new patterns, the fitting requirements for each one can be taxing if you do four of them in one week. I miss tried and true patterns...*sigh*

Anyway, the velvet did require special handling. The pieces had to be cut all in the same direction to insure the nap would run the same on all of the pieces. The seams were pressed open using my needle board which I ended up wrapping around my sleeve board to get a good press. 

For this version I went with the bell sleeves again. To me the bell sleeves really give the top a boho feel. I used the same lace used on the yoke pieces to lengthen the sleeves...and while the yokes are lined, the sleeve bands are not. It really was the perfect top to end my sewing vacay with...

A few photos ~

This is my third version of this top and not my last. I love the coverage of this top and how comfortable it is to wear. Also it works well with leggings and my ponte jean leggings so perfect for my new lifestyle. And who doesn't love a velvet top?!  So luxurious feeling, right?!

...as always more later!

Yet Another "Thoughts While Sewing" Post...

I love the space I occupy when I'm knee deep into a sewing vacay.  I love how my mind starts to clear out the driftwood of life - those concerns that overburden us - and makes way for the soul cleansing that spending time being creative brings me.

• The way I feel about sewing and who I want to be when sewing has changed now that I work a job that I love. While sewing has always been a creative haven, it's no longer a refuge from a cruel work space but a totally uplifting and healing space.
• I worry that I won't be as creative now that I don't have dresses to sew. I'm thinking that I will turn my dress ideas into tunics to wear over leggings and slim legged pants while I wait out the winter...cause dresses and skirts are worn all the time in the spring & summer in the office.
• This fitting each and every pattern is a new thing to me.  There are sooooo many steps to make before I can get to the good part - the sewing!
• My sewing is not perfect. Honestly, I'm not even striving for perfect. I'm striving to be the best I can be...and of course that changes from year to year. As I learn more, gain more experience, and figure out what I'm really good, at my goals change. However, perfect is not one of those goals.
• When I get into the zone, I don't want to leave the sewing cave. I know I'm in the zone when the fabric tells me something different than I imagined when I decided to make the garment.  That's when magic happens - hahahahaha! Seriously though that's when the unique details get added to garments.
• I use to make notes while sewing a garment. Now I start a blog post and drop my info right into the post. I don't have to remember everything I did later and I have a more complete record in one place when I want to make the garment again.
• Sometimes I wonder if it's wrong to be so thrilled to spend all of my vacay in the sewing cave? To have had dinner plans with someone and they cancelled and be thrilled because it means another uninterrupted day in the cave. More time doing what I love...
• It's amazing to me that non-sewing friends and family members think you should go into your sewing space and create a wonderful new garment in an hour or two. Really?  

It was a good sewing week. I did end up getting a lot accomplished - more than I realized. I do tend to lose perspective when I'm in the midst of the week grinding out garments.

There's only one more post of a new top to be shared ~ posting next. I will be sewing this weekend because I think I've found my way creatively. My sewing mojo is in full effect. So much so that I bought a couple of pieces of fabric during Black Friday weekend.  Not a lot of yardage but things that are lacking in the fabric collection. Hard to believe right?! *LOL* I will more than likely do a post on them because I'm pretty excited about these purchases.

I want to leave you with a collage of  the garments I made during my sewing vacay...

...as always more later!

Tamarack Jacket Final

While taking pictures of the garments I made during my sewing vacay, I also took a few of the Tamarack Jacket too.  The construction information can be found in this post.

Without further ado, me wearing the jacket ~

I styled it with my RTW ponte jean leggings, a t-shirt that I made (more on that later!) and the jacket ~

A few pics of the jacket, t-shirt and a straight elastic-waist black ponte skirt that I made to go with the jacket. The skirt was made from my TNT skirt pattern and filled a hole in my new casual wardrobe.

Wow! All three pieces made by me...yes!

This was one of the first outfits I wore to work after the sewing vacay and I loved it! It was perfect for those cold Mondays when it takes a minute for the heat to come back on in office buildings. Oh and I wore the leggings with the jacket not the skirt.

Just wanted to close the loop on that one and show you how I wore it. More new sewing posts up next!

...as always more later!

Now that it's December...

In the midst of posting sewing vacay makes, I thought I should share a few other things. 

Pattern Giveaways ~
The first thing is the makes from the pattern giveaways. I'm horrible at going to the post office so it's amazing that I sent both of these patterns out in a timely fashion. *LOL*

The first pattern winner was Graca, who blogs at Sew Essentially Sew.

I think she made this up as soon as it arrived and I love her fabric choice.  You can read all about her top in this blog post. Cool right?! It's making me think I should revisit this pattern myself!

The second pattern winner was Brenna who won not only the Cashmerette Appleton dress pattern but the fabric that accompanied the kit.  After only one email prodding, I got the pattern and fabric mailed to her.

Not two weeks later she sent me pics of the completed dress! I think the amazing thing is that Brenna is not plus sized and the dress looks awesome on her...which speaks to the wonderful size range of Jenny's patterns.

And as a small plug for Jenny, she recently released the Washington Dress. There are kits as well as the printed pattern available here on her site. BTW, my pattern just arrived in the mail and I think I've thought up a way to use it for my new lifestyle...so it will probably show up here in the beginning of the new year. Gotta use that Christmas vacay wisely!

Comments in Posts ~
I want to thank everyone who leaves a comment on a post! I so appreciate it especially since blog commenting seems to be down on ALL blogs. I'm trying to be better at replying to questions and just saying something because YOU did take the time to write. So check back if you asked a question, I've probably answered it in the blog post...and I promise to get better at answering/replying!

BurdaStyle Best of Blogging List ~
Last but not least I found out that I made the 2015 Best of Blogging List on BurdaStyle. What?! I checked that list a couple of times to make sure that they really meant me! hahahahahaha! But every time I went back my name was still there so I guess I really should give that Oscar speech I've been practicing like forevah!

I'm gonna be honest ~ these acknowledgements always make me a little nervous. While I'm absolutely over the moon thrilled that so many sewists thought enough of my work to not only nominate me but then vote for me ~ its mind blowing! However, I always think of the sewists who weren't nominated who also do amazing work and never seem to be mentioned in these lists. So I want to share this with all sewists working in their sewing rooms/areas, working out their creative dreams or just learning how to sew and falling in love with and becoming obsessed with this craft we all love!

This is totally said tongue in check - Wait! What the music is swelling?  Okay so I want to thank my grandmother, who taught me to sew!  My mother who gave me my first sewing machine and encouraged this obsession! My sewing pals in NYC - the ones who called to make sure I was okay after the emergency and who are always there for me - you know who you are! My bestest sewing friend EVAH who flew from another coast to share my birthday with me...and of course I can't forget my Janome Memory Craft 8900 QCP sewing machine, my Babylock Imagine serger without you I couldn't create and finally a shout-out to my fabric collection! Without you there would be nothing to sew...(that last part said in a rushed, excited, louder than usual voice - cause I gotta talk over that swelling music!)

Seriously folks - THANK YOU!

...and as always more later!

McCalls 7194 - An Asymmetrical Top

Shams made this top in August. I think I purchased the pattern shortly thereafter because her top was so inspiring. While hers is a study in how to make a wonderful summer top in a lightweight fabric, mine is made using a double faced wool knit.

Version One ~
This is an easy top with several variations. I used View C. I sewed this straight out of the envelope in a size XXL. The only pattern alterations were made to the sleeves to make the bicep area larger.  

Somehow I overlooked the fact that the pattern envelope calls it a close fitting top. I hate close fitting tops. I like the illusion of a close fit but not an actual close fit - if you know what I mean!

I don't know how my daughter and I missed it but all of my pics

wearing the top with this necklace have it sitting over one breast! Oy!

The fabric used in the top is a double faced wool knit with the burnt orange on one side and the heathered gray on the other. So I used the gray for the sew on edges. I purchased this from Fabric Mart many moons ago. 

I will wear this but it won't be a favorite. So much so that I didn't even bother to finish the sleeve hems...just turned them up.  And after seeing the pictures, I'm going to leave them just like this!

A few more photos ~

Version Two ~
Because I really like the idea of the top and Shams version, I decided to alter the front and back pattern pieces for a total asymmetrical look. Now the real pattern work came in.

This was one of the last tops we shot and I was starting to get 

a little punchy.  Don't know how models do this!

Pattern Alterations ~

• First I added two inches at the shorten/lengthen line on the front and back pieces. 
• Then I added another four inches to the bottom of the front and back pieces.
• On the center front line I sliced it up and spread it 1/2 inch wide at the top out to two inches at the bottom.

• At the center back line I sliced it up and spread it 1/2 inch wide at the top and an inch at the bottom.
• This gave me 60" in width around the hip line.
• Then I redrew the altered pattern pieces onto new pattern paper.

Construction Info. ~
For this version, I chose a sweatery turquoise knit that I bought in 2006. Yeah those little tags I place on the front of the fabric tells me everything! Anyway it's been in the collection long enough, it's time for it to be useful.

With this top I followed the instructions except for the fact that I inserted the sleeves flat. I just don't understand inserting sleeves into knit garments in the round. Why? Especially when I've found that I get a better finish when I insert sleeves flat.

Other than that the construction was straight forward. It went together easily and I was careful when handling the fabric not to stretch it too much. I didn't want to distort it.

A few more pictures of the top ~

The top is thin so I'm wearing it with a camisole underneath it.

This is the way I will always wear it.

I had an idea to make a color blocked version of this pattern but I'm moving on. Even with my alterations its still a close fitting top and personally I'm still trying to come to grips with a closer fit. Though both my Mom and Daughter loved this one and my daughter keeps reminding me that you can really see the weight loss in my closer fitting clothing...sure, right.

The turquoise one will probably be worn more than the orange/grey version. Although when shooting the orange/grey one outside I realized that it will probably be very warm this winter. Anyway two of them are enough...

A Parting Shot ~
As you know my daughter comes with four little assistants and trying to persuade little people that they shouldn't be in every shot can be interesting. So my parting shot is of Miss Sammy coming to join me in a picture.

...as always more later!

A Godet Top - Butterick 6248

I bought this pattern from Joann's when I was in Houston this summer. I knew that I wanted the version with the back godet because I love some of the pieces that Lori Goldstein does on QVC.

It's interesting that I can only find two finished garments from this pattern on the internet because I think this pattern is so cool!  My version is a combo of View A & B with long sleeves but no cowl and no front pockets - seriously who thought pockets on a woman's stomach is a good idea?  Ummmmm, no!

My Fabric Choices ~

I picked a fabric that is not recommended on the pattern envelope - ponte.  See I already own two RTW versions of this top.  One made from a sweater knit with a polyester georgette godet and the other is a thin knit lycra with a polyester print godet. These wear so well and have a sexycool vibe that I like when I'm going out.

My godet fabric is a light printed mesh that I got from Fabric Mart years ago. There must have been a sale on these at some point because I keep finding pieces hidden among the other fabrics in the collection.

Construction ~
This is an easy to sew pattern. I made a straight size 24. Wait, I know you're thinking but I thought you lost weight - well remember that IF I was sewing this last year I would have added inches to the princess seams to give myself more room.  It would have been the jumping off place ~ not sewn straight out of the envelope.

And it's loose...in a thinner knit I would go down a size or two depending on how tightly I wanted it to fit. However, since I was using the ponte as my base fabric, I wanted to make sure that it would go on easily and not be too tight.

I need to say that I added nothing to the sleeves because they are cut generously! Yes! However, I did make an alteration to the shoulder seam on the front and back pieces to make the shoulder seams an inch smaller. I also didn't play with the seam allowances, they are all 5/8" seams. Hey, there's loads of times those seam allowances have been altered to give me just a squeech more space!  

To add the godet, I sewed it to one back piece, then to the other back piece and finally sewed the back seam up to the marked spot. It makes sure the point is enclosed in the seam without any puckering.

I also inserted the sleeves flat not in the round as the pattern suggests. This has become my method of choice now for inserting sleeves on knit tops, because you have fewer challenges with getting them in the garment correctly. Okay it is a truly puckerless application - I just needed to say that! hahahahaha!

Pictures of the finished top ~

I'm wearing this with my black leggings from The Avenue although I was a little chilly taking the pics. I may end up wearing this with my ponte jean leggings instead. Also note the flat shoe boots - I have them in black and brown and wear them almost every day. I miss heels! *LOL*

Conclusion ~
I want to make this again in the version with the cowl neck using a merino wool or a lighter weight wool. I think to make this top successful it's important for the godet to have enough drape. So for that version I'm thinking about making the godet a little wider so it has even more swing.

Finally, I love how high/low hems work with my figure type. I don't know how much longer the trend is going to last but I'm going to rock it while it does!

...as always more later!