A Little Housekeeping...

This post is about housekeeping because there's some new readers and some that are back after an absence. Hey we all seem to have a little more quality time these days...

I just wanted to remind you of a few things ~

1. If you sign in as "Unknown" or "Anonymous" would you kindly sign your name at the end of your response to a post. It's helpful because if you have a question, I know who I'm addressing. Also, as general principle I don't answer questions from unknown or anonymous posters because I don't know who I'm speaking to.

2. When posting a question, please re-read my blog post to insure I haven't already answered your question. Many times the question asked is already in the post. I typically don't answer those questions because I've already given you the answer.

3. If you ask a question that isn't in the post, I will reply. Sometimes I've forgotten something or you think of something new.  I try to respond promptly but don't forget about time changes especially if you're not in the US.

4. I've written over 2000 blog posts. If you're interested in a topic, I've probably already written about it.  Kindly check titles in the side bar under Blog Index - there is a link to everything I've written about it. Say you're interested in "Shirts" or a "Specific Pattern Number" just click the link and it will take you to ALL of the blog posts I've tagged with that title or pattern number.  Kindly check that before asking me to write about a topic, especially if you're new.

5. Like I said, I've been writing this blog for 15 years. I've pretty much discussed everything and then some. However, if you still can't find what you're looking for in the blog index, try the search box in the upper left above my logo, pictured below. Type a sentence or a couple of words and everything related to that will show up as a search.

6.  One more reminder that if you read my blog through a blog reader and leave a comment, it may be weeks before I see it, especially now that I'm home bound. I primarily respond to comments and questions left on my blog through blogger. I may see your comment on one of the readers long after you've written it but I don't respond to comments there. Just wanted to remind everyone because I checked into bloglovin' a few days ago and noticed comments on the bottom of a few posts.

Finally, I want to thank everyone who visits, reads, links to and especially takes the time to leave a comment! I read every one of them because they're precious to me. I truly appreciate the interaction, the conversations, some of the suggestions (okay keeping it real LOL!) and the fact that you return time and again to read. It lets me know that I'm not just pontificating out into the ether.

One last thing, I haven't written about politics or the handling of the virus because honestly I just can't handle it. I live in the epicenter of the virus and the day to day of surviving here takes about everything I have. I can say I'm preparing for the worse in November. I'm no longer surprised by the hate, avarice, ignorance, lack of compassion and understanding, religious intolerance and prejudice displayed by my fellow Americans. What will be, will be and we will either reap what is sown or benefit from the benevolence.

A new dress post will be up next.

...as always more later!

Before after and already...

I made McCalls 7385 in August 2016 after I'd lost 35 lbs., started a new job and was getting used to a new dress code.  It was a wonderful maxi dress, comfortable, easy to wear and maybe I was a tad overdressed, but I loved wearing it. Last summer I gained back all of the weight I lost and it became to hard to zip up. 

At first I was going to put it in the donation pile. After some thought I decided to recycle the zipper and the skirt portion. The bodice was tossed. I was having a Myosotis moment and decided the skirt could be used for another one.

I pulled out some leftover white linen (I love my fabric collection!) and cut a bodice, a collar, undercollar and short sleeves. Then I put the pieces in my cut pile. Somehow, it got lost under the other garments in the pile. I found it recently when I was moving things around in the Sewing Cave.  Since I was on another Myosotis riff, I thought now was the perfect time to finish it off.

However, as I constructed the dress, I made some changes to it. 
o  The collar, undercollar and short sleeves were omitted. 
o  To finish off the neckline, I turned it down 1/2" and topstitched it flat. 
Now I fully admit this was lazy. 
o  I was doing some somersaults in my head on how to make a bias binding facing that would clean finish the neckline. 
o  I decided I wasn't sewing couture so this was good enough. 
o  The armholes are bound with white bias binding from the notions collection.

Supplies Used ~
1 yard white linen
2 yards white bias binding 
3 5/8" white mother of pearl buttons
Interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics 

Everything was already in the sewing cave. It just needed to be rounded up and used. May I say yet again how much I love my fabric & notion collections!

A Few Pictures ~

It's not perfect but it's good enough. I can wear it this summer plus I've recycled a piece and added it back to my wardrobe. 

I feel like I'm finally adjusting to this #sewstayhome situation. I've stopped working against my natural body rhythms and just going with the flow with everything. It's made it easier to get through my days and it's put my sewing into prospective...which I've been doing more of lately.

The grandkids were here with their Mother and there's only so 

much social distancing you can do with little people!

Another dress comes to the blog next...

...as always more later!

A Black & White Maxi Shirtdress

As I stated before my cut pile is doing nothing for me right now...nothing!  I found when I pulled some different fabrics and started using them my sewjo came back. This fabric was one of the ones that sparked joy...

This linen/cotton blend was purchased from Fabric Mart's online store last year or the year before. I don't remember but it was a recent purchase because it's in the new fabric piles. 

I was really excited to work with this fabric because the maxi shirt dress I envisioned would be different from the print, chambray/denim and stripe fabrics I've previously used. I thought I had enough fabric until I laid it out. And then the angst began because it's shorter than I expected meaning I had to change to my vision. I HATE when that happens!

Supply List ~
3 yards black/white cotton/linen print from Fabric Mart
.5 yard black cotton shirting
1.5 yard black bias binding remnant
12 5/8" black & white buttons from the collection
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller and Farmhouse Fabrics

Design and Construction ~
Initially I made the decision to make the collar, undercollar, and front facing from black shirting. I wanted to emphasize the black in the print. However, I was short on fabric for sleeves. At first I cut the sleeves using half print fabric/half black shirting but when I put the bodice on the dressform, I realized that they wouldn't work for me.

I really liked it sleeveless.  Since I'm planning to wear it this summer, sleeveless will work so I went with black binding for the armholes.

Not having enough print fabric for pockets, I cut them out in the black shirting. However, when it came time to sew the skirt together, I omitted them.  I'm not really a pocket person, so won't miss them.  I add them to the dresses as they speak to me. This one wasn't speaking loudly.

I always add the interfacing to the bodice of the dresses. When I was making the skirt bodice with a separate button band, I didn't add interfacing because I turned the band three times. More than enough fabric to hold and stabilize a buttonhole right? On my last three makes, I've interfaced the skirt just once - this time. For the cotton sateen the fabric was more than stable enough, the chambray was a toss-up and I went without.  But this linen/cotton was too light and unstable not to interface the front band.

A couple of other design decisions...
I topstitched the collar and undercollar in white thread to tie the look together.

I added some red coloring (sharpie marker after performing a wash test) to several of the flowers on the dress, just because I thought there should be a little red in in it. I like the occasional flashes of red when the dress moves.

After those decisions, it was a simple sew since I've made this so many times before.  Though I can tell you that I'm done sewing buttonholes and buttons for a while.

A Few Pictures ~

I love the drape and flow of this one. It's definitely unlike the previous ones. I have one more to share but I've already moved on. Another maxi dress will be coming to the blog soon since I've made six in total.


...as always more later!

Seven Weeks In...

It's Thursday again so it's time for a check-in and an update especially since this is the last day of April.  

Let's start with garments made ~

I've made five dresses.  Three have been blogged. The last two will probably be photographed this weekend because it's supposed to be sunny and warm all weekend. So blog posts next week.

My sewjo came roaring back and I made five versions of my hacked Myosotis dress.

This is what's I'm working on now ~

It's almost finished and may be completed in time to be photographed this weekend too. I hope so. That way I can clear the decks off because I have 3-4 more maxidresses I want to make, as well as a cardigan and shirt from my cut pile. 

Fabric In/Out Update ~
I was relatively good this month. I bought 15 yards of fabric supporting three online fabric stores - StyleMaker Fabrics, Sewing Studio and Fabric Mart.

My out total was 103 yards.  This number included my three latest dresses. Then I gave 90 yards to a sewing friend. She's relatively new to sewing and has no real stash.  All of the fabric stores here in NJ are closed. She was bemoaning that fact so we did a virtual tour. She picked some pieces out and drove over to pick them up while we practiced social distancing. 

Now y'all have seen photos of the fabric collection so it didn't really matter that she got serious yardage. I'm just happy she's going to be able to sew for awhile because here in NJ we still have no open date.

This makes my year in/out totals:
Fabric In: 36.5
Fabric Out: 138.5

Coronavirus Update ~
It's the end of April and I'm trying to stay positive and remain hopeful. I'm believing that we've turned a corner and are getting close to the end of this. I know things won't be the way they were before and that we're headed into a new "normal."  

I also realize that I'm lucky to have a job where I can work from home and still get paid. My heart goes out to those who have lost their jobs, have not yet received their stimulus checks or unemployment money.  I know these are challenging times for you.

I also mourn with anyone who has lost family members to this vicious disease. We've had several deaths of elderly family members too.  Some of my Mother's contemporaries, so this has been hard on her. It's sad that older people who are still living vibrant lives will no longer be with us to share their knowledge, be a bridge between the generations, and share love.

If you live in a state where the virus is not as prevalent, I would hope that you would say a prayer and have some compassion for those of us in states still going through. It's very surreal and believe me we want to go back to work as much as some of you do too. However, I'm thrilled that my Governor and the Governors in surrounding states are taking their time. I DON'T want to have to go through this again!

As I said previously, new makes are coming to the blog next week. Next week which is MAY! Next week which will begin my eighth week of quarantine...

...as always more later!

Sewing Shortcuts

As I was working on the dresses, I realize that I normally do a few things that make my sewing go faster.

Things like:
1. I wind two bobbins when I start a project.

2. I pull all the items I need to complete a project before I start - that means not only are fabric and pattern(s) chosen but notions (zipper/buttons/interfacing) and contrasting fabrics. 

3. I sew as many seams together as possible before I head to the iron.

4. When sewing on shank buttons, I thread 2 needles so I don't have to stop in the middle, especially when I'm sewing a large number of buttons onto the garment.

5.  Other buttons are sewn on by machine.

6.  I keep my basic colors of thread (white, black, brown, navy) in minimum 2 spools but I like to keep them stocked at 3-4 spools.

7.  I buy threads both sewing machine and serger on sale in larger spool sizes.

8.  I have a steam generator iron but it doesn't work in the sewing cave without blowing a fuse so I'm still ironing/pressing with my Rowenta. So before every big sew, I fill up all my water bottles so I don't have to keep going upstairs to have enough water to refill my iron.

Those are a few of the things I do to make sewing easier and a little faster when I start a project or a sewing binge.  How about you? What tricks do you have to make your sewing go a little faster?  This is the Question of the Day so talk back to me!

...as always more later!

Gingham for Spring

I love gingham and spent some time collecting several colors and sizes of this beloved fabric. I've used it for accents in garments and for actual garments, here and here. So it's no surprise that I used some to brighten up this blue chambray maxi shirtdress.

This is the third version in my shirtdress making series. As I was constructing this dress, I realized how similar this is to another dress...guess I'm losing my originality! Honestly though there is a part of me that just doesn't care. I really am more interested in being comfortable and appropriately dressed than anything else.

Supply List ~
- 4.5 yards Blue Chambray purchased from Fabric Mart's Brick & Mortar Store during Carriage Corner Sew Camp
- 1/2 yard light blue gingham also purchased from Fabric Mart's Brick & Mortar Store during Carriage Corner Sew Camp
- 10 3/4" covered button shells from my notions collection
  (There's an interesting story to these covered button shells. I have to share it some day.)

- Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

Design Changes ~
To distinguish between this version and all of the others previously made and to come, I changed the sleeves. I wanted a longer sleeve but not so long the dress would be uncomfortable to wear in the summer. I decided to add a below elbow length sleeve with a tie.

Here's how I made it:
o  I added 5" to the bottom of the short sleeve 
o  Made a band 4" wide by 35" long from the chambray
o  Added a line of gathering stitches to the hemline of the sleeve 
o  Sewed the band to the sleeve hemline using a 5/8" seam allowance applying the center back of the band to the armhole seam
o  I left a one inch opening at the front of the sleeve to make it easier to tie the band
o  Topstitched the entire band after tucking in the ends 

Those are the only changes I made. It's the fabric speaking for this dress. I wanted a chambray maxi shirtdress and the gingham additions highlight the differences.

A Few Pictures ~

This not only fulfills my need for a chambray maxi shirtdress but also checks off one of the garments in my Chicos wardrobe.  While I may not be sewing from the cut pile right now, I am going back to it because I really do want those pieces in my closet.

My daughters have been amazing during this time. They've picked up groceries for me so I wouldn't have to go to the stores since I'm in the high risk category, and brought my grand kids by so I can talk to them through the car windows...cause Face Time is not all that! Today she showed up with some groceries, caught me taking pictures on the porch and volunteered to photograph this dress before heading home.

It took me awhile to come around to photographing these dresses. It seemed silly to be prancing around on the porch or in the front yard wearing pretty dresses during this crazy time. But I guess we're finding joy and stress/anxiety relief wherever we can find it. This 15 minutes we shared made my day and gave me a little normalcy back. Especially when she criticized my hair (she usually does it when we take pictures) and her naming my dress "The Prairie Dress."

There are two more dresses to share...they will show up here sooner rather than later!

...as always more later!









   

Two New Maxi Shirtdresses

Now I know most people sew with different patterns and that's part of the sewing adventure for them...but me I like TNT patterns where I hack the heck out of them to make the garments I see in my head...or enjoy wearing.

Due to the Corvid-19 quarantine, I'm finding that I want to sew specific garments that will serve me now and later when I venture back into the world.  Unlike most, I'm happiest in a skirt or a dress at home. I'm honestly not a jeans woman. So I've been riffing on my maxi shirtdress while quarantined.

The basis of my maxi shirtdress is the Deer & Doe Myosotis dress pattern. I've changed the following things on the pattern:

1. I added a collar and widen it after using it several times.
2. I lengthened to maxi length using only one tier.
3. The skirt pattern is no longer used to make the bottom of the dress. I now use the width of the fabric twice and a length of 28" for a short dress and 43-44" for a maxi dress.
4. After being inspired by another sewist, I've added a button front to the skirt of the dress.  Allowing it to be buttoned and unbuttoned instead of being slipped over my head.
5. Sleeves - I've made short sleeve, sleeveless, elbow length and long sleeved versions

...and for this first version I've added a ruffle to the hem because I cut it too short!

The Striped Ruffled Hem Maxi Shirtdress ~

Supplies Used ~
- I used a cotton shirting purchased from Fabric Mart last summer during the June Carriage Corner Sew Camp.
- 12 - 7/8" Mother of Pearl shank buttons from the button collection - these are from when I worked at the button company in the 1990s.
- Interfacing from Steinlauf and Stoeller

The main construction change is that bottom ruffle. I also omitted the topstitching on the bodice because I didn't want to mess with how the stripes ran. 

For the bottom ruffle: 
- I cut 3.5 lengths - 4" wide and the width of the fabric. 
- Sewed all of the lengths together and pressed it in half. 
- Then I gathered it to the bottom of the skirt's hemline making sure to match the fold over portion of the button band. 

That's it - easy peasy, well except for the time it took to gather the thing! *LOL*

Some pictures of the finished dress ~

"The Wolf In Sheep's Clothing Dress" ~

I named it after sending an email to a friend and her response was the dress was too sweet for me.  Seriously, she said "too sweet for my sassy personality."  Dayum, I just thought it was a pretty spring dress! But the name stuck in my head and I was determined to call it this in recognition of her comments! *LOL*

I shared a picture of this dress in a previous post.  The fabric was purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics and the 10 5/8" floral buttons are a recent purchase from Pacific Trimmings.  The white linen used on the collar, under collar, front facings and sleeve cuffs are a remnant from the fabric collection. 

As an aside, I'm so thrilled that I've collected and stored all of these bits and bobs over the years. I'm putting some covered buttons on an upcoming dress and while I had no buttons in the collection that worked with the fabric, it was wonderful to head to my covered button stash and pick some to use with the coordinating fabric. All of this collecting has really worked out during #sewstayhome.

Some Construction Details ~

The sleeve cuff - 
o  I cut a 4" band the width of the sleeve 
o  I sewed the side seam of the band, pressed the seam open, then pressed the band in half
o  Used a 1/2" seam allowance to attach it to the wrong side of the sleeve
o  The first band went on no problem - the second one took three tries to get it on!
o  Pressed the seam open and flat then pressed it up. I haven't tacked it down at the side seam yet waiting to see how it wears.

Front Facings -
I've made several of these maxi shirtdresses using a button front opening. Previously, I lapped over the skirt's button front twice, stitched down and then attached the skirt to the top.  However, I kept getting this bump in the center front that I hated.

For this one, an additional 1/2" was added to the front facing to give it a little more width. Then I only lapped the skirt facing over once to match the width of the bodice front facing. The top and skirt were stitched together matching the facing fronts and side seams...

...no bump. Otherwise, everything else is the same in the construction of this dress. Although it has a very small hem. I wanted as much length in the skirt because it was cut short due to lack of fabric. I guess I really do need 4 yards to make one. If I had omitted the sleeves, I would have had the additional length. However, I chose to have the short cuffed sleeves.

A Few Pictures ~

These are the first two in a series of five. The next two are already finished and the fifth one is almost complete. These dresses are about comfort and I'm all about that right now!

...as always more later!

Dayum - Is it Thursday Again?

The days fly by but also go really slowly. How is that possible? I've been home for 35 days now and my sewjo has returned as evidenced in my last post. Luckily I had a 1/2 day on Good Friday and Easter Monday off to just sew. Due to our quarantine status, our normal Easter Dinner was cancelled.  However, the grandkids did come by with their Mother and Aunt and talked to me through the car windows. It's truly a strange new world we're living in.

I have two more maxi shirtdresses almost done. Everything needs either hems, or buttonholes/buttons and hems to be finished and ready to be photographed. It was a good weekend and I felt most like myself those 3.5 half days...

Sewing Update:
Here are a few photos from the 80 hour sew...

Blue Chambray & Gingham Maxi Shirtdress ~

Black & White Cotton/Linen Sleeveless Maxi Shirtdress ~

All of the Maxi Shirtdresses so far ~

Coronavirus Update:
Latest update from my area is May 15th as the possible date for heading back to work. So I'm figuring the beginning of June because of all the things that need to be in place for us to return.  By that time I will have been home for 2.5 months. I'm hoping now that I'm finally sewing, I will have a whole bunch of new things to wear...

I highly encourage you to take some time and read Charlie's blog post about how the virus is affecting her here. It's a powerful read! I live in NJ and as of now, none of my family members have been infected. However, we all have stories of people we know who has someone affected by the virus.

My plan is to finish these dresses this week and take pictures with my daughter in my front yard while social distancing over the weekend. If this works, I will have some finished garment posts to share.

Hope everyone is taking care and staying safe!


...as always more later!