A Denim Simplicity 8687

After finishing the Mildred Jumpsuit, I decided to sew something I'd previously made.  I have a drawer in my cutting table holding the projects I cut prior to the move. When I was going through the drawer I found this project and it coordinates so well with my jumpsuit that it had to be sewn next.

The reason I hadn't worked on it previously was, "Where was I going to wear it to?" Which has become the question regarding almost everything I think about sewing now. And in actuality has held me back from making some things, because WHY? I decided to finish this anyway for two reasons:

1. I needed to sew something I'd made before that would encourage me to continue to sew, and

2. Why the hell not? I mean the pandemic is still here almost a year later from when we originally locked down. It's going to take a minute to vaccinate everyone for us to get to our new normal...so I'm going with it and sewing things.

Supplies ~

A patchwork denim fabric from Stylemaker Fabrics purchased in 2019. It's still available here.

Yds of Blue & White Bias Binding from Bessie Pearl Textiles

Remnants from this dress that I cut into a vest also remnants from jeans that I cut up to use for facings and pockets in other garments.

6 - 7/8" gold buttons from the deep stash button collection - I've had these for years!

Pattern Alterations & Construction Info. ~

I cut this out awhile ago but I believe there were no additional pattern alterations that weren't covered in the other two posts about this jacket. I did make one change to the jacket from the other versions.

o  Instead of making the tucks in the sleeves, I gathered the sleeves into the ties.

o  At the same time, I also topstitched a tuck into the cut opening in the sleeve hem to make it fit a little tighter.

o  I used bias binding on all the interior seams since I really liked how the finishing looked in the first version. 

o  However, I bought a 1" double folded quilt binding and that's just too much binding on the seams. 

o  So I cut the binding at the main fold basically cutting it in half and giving me a lot more binding for my money.

o  Since I used denim from previous makes, I made sure the lighter blue denim was cut for the collar and cuffs.  

o  The darker black denim scrap was used for the front facings.

Besides being extra careful sewing the seams because the denim's patchwork seams are bulky and making sure to grade the seams, I used three different thread colors on the jacket.

Yes, I have thread coordination issues...but choosing to topstitch in the gold jeans thread tied everything together and gave it a true denim jacket feel to me.

The Buttonholes ~

Finally adding the buttonholes and buttons were a little challenging because of all the patchwork seams. I tried hard to insure that I was making the buttonholes in between the patchwork seams but I wasn't always successful.  

To make it easier for the automatic buttonholer I trimmed down all of the seams that were near the buttonholes. And STILL in some places the sewing machine struggled. I managed to get the six buttonholes made with patience and slow sewing...also accepting when they weren't perfectly lined up.

There is a little more and less space between the buttonholes because my sewing machine DID NOT care about being accurate when making the buttonholes. One is downright crooked but I'm leaning into the fact that my machine made all of the buttonholes and I didn't have to unpick any of them.

A Few Pictures ~

This will be the last time I use this pattern for awhile. I'm just not wearing jackets cause I'm not going outside. And at the rate America is vaccinating folks, Imma be working from home quite a bit longer.

I pulled some fabrics to make some winter Myosotis dresses so that's what's coming to the blog soon.

...as always more later!

  

Style Arc Mildred Jumpsuit

Y'all I wondered if I'd lost my ability to sew making this jumpsuit!  I made sooooooo many mistakes:

1. I cut it too big because I've gained so much weight (pandemic, surgery, meds) and have no real good image of myself.

2. Then I made it too small - ummm girl maybe take some measurements before you cut it. 

3. Added to and changed pieces that didn't need to be adjusted...cause I don't always know better than the pattern designer...

Here's what I ended up with...

But not without a lot of crying, whining and just wondering if surgery and the anesthesia took my sewing ability with it!

One more thing before I go into particulars ~ in my opinion this pattern is not really designed for a middle aged fat woman.  It has a very slim cut to it and not enough seams for fitting options...so let that be your guide if you're thinking about using this pattern.

Supplies ~

1. Fabric purchased from Chic Fabric a stretch knit denim (this was in the collection) and is at least 2-3 years old
2. 2 5/8" shades of blue plastic buttons from the collection
3. 20" inch navy invisible zipper shortened to 12"
4. 1" navy blue linen bias binding from the collection 

Pattern Alterations & Construction ~

I started with a size 30 the largest size the Style Arc has...I know, I know.  Then I proceeded to add a 1/2" to all of the side seams.  And 5" to the legs because I wanted a floor length jumpsuit. Y'all know how this ends right - it was too dayum big.

Then I checked my measurements against the pattern and chose to cut a size 24.  I unpick the jumpsuit and lay the size 24 pattern pieces on it. Oh wait, important thing to note, this pattern has a LOW crotch, which hung to my knees in the size 30.

I fixed the crotch issue by taking FIVE inches out of the body of the jumpsuit.  Then I cut it out again and stitched it up.  Now it's too dayum tight. I'm not a fan of seeing my belly button or the generous rolls that Gawd has blessed me with so at this point I'm done.  Seriously DONE! I KNEW that I couldn't sew anymore. Maybe the anesthesia took it.  Maybe the meds sucked my talent out of me - who knows but this wasn't working for me.

Then I did what I always do.  Put my big girl panties on, dusted myself off and figured out a way to make it work.

o  I added a 2" strip to both sides. Thank Gawd I always buy too much fabric!

o  The invisible zipper was added to the back seam because I was having a hard time getting the jumpsuit over my backside. This will allow me to zip it down and step into it.  My favorite way of getting dressed.

o  I widened the straps by a 1/4" on each side. Then I made 2 of each strap.  Sewed them together, turned them inside out instead of sewing them in half. The other straps looked too small on my body so I made bigger ones.

o  Instead of sewing them into the facings, I only sewed the back straps into the facing.  The front ones were made so that I could button the straps on. Again, there was no way I was sliding into this with shoulder straps sewn into the front and back facings.

Let me stop here and say the directions are hella confusing. These are more like Burda directions than easy to follow along instructions. I've been sewing a minute and figuring out how to insert the straps almost blew a fuse in my brain. I had to actually sleep on it before I figured out what the words and diagrams were saying.

After I got the jumpsuit to fit, it was just a matter of sewing it together and styling it. So I present my very dressed up yet loungy at home jumpsuit...

A Few Pictures ~

Now, I know I've talked badly about jumpsuits in the past. AND the only reason I considered making this one was because I'm home until who knows when! As such my home bathroom is WAYYYYYY bigger than the stalls at work so I can get undressed without contortions to use it.

Finally, I don't know if I will make this again. I took a leap to add something different to my wear at home wardrobe. I don't dislike the way it looks on me, I'm just worn out by bringing it to life. Halfway through the process I thought what the hell was I thinking making a "new from the envelope" garment. I really should have eased back into sewing by using a TNT pattern.

Anyway, I'm full on sewing again.  The Winter Sewing Room is treating me good. The patchwork denim jacket is up next.

...as always more later!

A Dover for Winter

When I was putting fabric away in September 2020, I touched this gray jacquard and thought it would be wonderful as a Myosotis maxi.  I mean I'm working from home this winter so I can pretty much wear whatever I want. I seem to reach for my maxi dresses the most.  They're comfortable, easy to wear and since I'm not really a pants girl, perfect for me and working from home.

However, when I went to prep it, it told me that it wanted to be something totally different. I thought a Dover Duster would be perfect and checked to make sure I had enough fabric. Luckily I did.

Materials ~

3 yards stretch jacquard from Fabric Mart via the collection

(Y'all better get used to me saying that because I'm committed to sewing from the collection more in 2021!)

11 3/4" black & clear buttons from the collection

7 yards black binding purchased from Bessie Pearl Textiles on IG for this project

Construction ~

There are no new construction techniques in this version. Although I feel like I didn't have enough fabric to lengthen this the additional 2" it needed for a hem. It's part of the reason I added the binding to the front and then decided to leave it off the hemline.  Though I think that was more from project fatigue!  I've used this pattern four times as a jacket and once as a maxidress. This version will work as a jacket and a maxidress.

A Few Photos ~

Worn with a turtleneck and black denim leggings...

...and then as a dress with a turtleneck under it

I will probably use this pattern for another maxidress in a softer fabric when spring arrives. I love the original one and would like a couple more to add to my maxi dress collection.

...as always more later!

The Cardigan - Simplicity 8992 - UPDATE!

This cardigan was started in December 2019 when I also began writing this blog post. I write them as I sew so I don't have to remember details which is lucky in this case since I finished the garment a year later!

Today I finally got my act together and took a bunch of pictures of garments made in the last couple of months. I decided to shoot this sweater with me wearing it...so I've updated this post to include those pictures...

I think these photos are closer to the actual fabric color than the pictures below. BTW, this fabric is still available from Stylemaker Fabrics in a variety of colors where I purchased it in 2019. It was also available from Melanated Fabrics and a few other fabric sites. 

When I moved, I threw some unfinished garments out and brought a few with me. This is one of the ones that came along and is now finished.

So here is the original blog post with some updates to it...

I bought this Simplicity Pattern in August 2019 because my favorite cardigan pattern (also by Simplicity) only has a tie closure and I want a button front closure option. I love the cardigans I made using that pattern but 9 times out of 10, the cardigan unties beneath my coat. I'm sure a button front cardigan won't have the same challenges. 

Then I saw this cable fabric on StyleMaker Fabrics and I bought a couple of yards of it. It seemed perfect to make my first version of this cardigan. 

Materials ~
3 yards ocean knit fabric from StyleMaker Fabrics
Navy blue ponte scraps for facings

1 large button from the stash by way of Fabric Mart Fabrics

1 large gold snap from Pacific Trimmings

I need to talk a little about this fabric. I loved this fabric and bought it as soon as Michelle posted it. However, I didn't think about what it would take to work with the fabric. I can honestly say that if you're a newer, beginner, returning to sewing or advanced beginner, I wouldn't purchase this fabric. This fabric is challenging to work with and while it gives a good result, it took some extra to make it work.  

Pattern Alterations ~
While this pattern goes up to a size 22/24 (XXL), it's close-fitting. My other cardigan pattern has a looser fit and I wanted to combine the fit of the two patterns to add the button front closure.  To make that happen, I used my pattern sandwich method. Where I lay the TNT pattern piece down first, then the new pattern piece and finally a fresh piece of tracing paper.  This allows me to create a new pattern piece that fits me. 

An example below of how the new cardigan front was made. Also when I altered them, I did add a little of the waistline curve in the Simplicity 8992 pattern instead of the boxy shape of the original pattern.

All of the accompanying pattern pieces were also altered for a looser but shaped fit.

Construction ~ 
This fabric needed some special handling. It was heavy. When you sewed into the cables it pulled out of shape and hung funny. 

1. The facings were cut out of a dark royal blue ponte to add some structure to the cardigan so I did not need to add interfacing to the facings. 

2. I added fusible twill tape to the shoulder seams and to the back neckline so it would retain it's shape.

3. I made a hem facing for the sleeve hemlines because the cables were stretching them out. Adding the hem facing gives the sleeve hemline some structure which this cardigan needs.

4. The cardigan hemline also had hem facings added to them. However, I did this after I moved and couldn't find the royal blue ponte scraps so I used black ponte scraps instead.

5. All facings and hems were hand stitched down. It made it easier to control the fabric and to avoid wavy hems.  

6. Even though I wanted buttons and buttonholes, I realized that my home machine would never make buttonholes in this fabric. My original plan was to take it to NYC and have professional buttonholes made. But I dragged my feet and Covid happened so that plan went out the window.

7. To make this work now, I added a large snap and a large button to hold the cardigan together.  Since I'm working from home, I have no worries about wearing it under a coat for the foreseeable future.

Conclusion ~

I have a several more garments that need finishing touches. To ease back into sewing, I'm finishing them up before starting a "from scratch" sewing project. So my next project is another unfinished garment. BTW, I'm only spending a couple of hours a day sewing and still don't feel like posing in garments yet. Hopefully that will be back soon too.  However, I thought a garment post would be a better update on my progress than anything else.

...as always more later!

End of January 2020 Update

I've been sewing, planning and making a list of new projects to sew. My Sewjo is back and asserting itself in a good way! However, I feel more like sewing than modeling (getting dressed, doing my hair & makeup) and taking pictures. So I'm riding this sewing wave for now.

I have been working on things ~

1. The Style Arc Mildred jumpsuit is finished and I love it!  It had to hang a few days but it's definitely grown on me. I have lots to share about it and will when I have pictures of me in it.

2. Last year I started working on a Wardrobe that I came no where near completing for a variety of reasons. But I won't be deterred, I'm back to working on a similar wardrobe this year including some of the pieces from the original one. While I know most of it won't be worn outside any time soon I don't care. I'm sewing for the joy and because I own all of the fabric & notions, so why not make them?

3. Which brings me to what I'm presently finishing up ~ a denim patchwork jacket from Simplicity 8687. I cut this jacket out last March as part of my wardrobe plan - The Statement Jacket - but never got to it. Well I've taken my time sewing it, thoroughly enjoying working on it.

Next up will be four winterized Myosotis dresses. Imma be honest. I rarely wear pants in the house, preferring a long dress with some socks under it. My current Myosotis versions worked fine until the weather dropped below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Now my legs are chilly unless I add some leggings underneath them. However, the two long ponte pullover dresses I own provide a little more warmth so I want some winterized Myosotis.  Here are the fabrics I'm using...

These will get cut out and I will start working on the black & white print this weekend.

Finally the fabric buying hate has passed. There has been sufficient time between unpacking my fabric collection...losing my memory of how much there was...to now wanting some new pieces. This purchase is spring forward looking because it's like 10 degrees F here and a significant snow fall is predicted between Sunday night and Monday.  Why wouldn't I purchase spring fabrics?! LOL!

These are all from fabric dot com.  I also bought this Fair Isle Knit from Stylemaker Fabrics to make a new Cashmerette Tobin top...

I will be cutting this out this weekend also. In essence I'm making a new cut pile.

In full transparency, I also purchased some knit panels from Marcy Tilton but I'm still waiting for those to arrive. Most importantly I am still deleting most fabric emails. Because on good days I do remember how much is upstairs and that I should be sewing with what I have instead of just storing it.

I promise the day is coming soon where I will be ready to take photos in my finished garments...I'm just not there yet.  However, I did want to do a check-in to let you know the Winter Sewing Room is working perfectly for me.  That I am sewing and enjoying the process and that my sewjo is back baby!

...as always more later!

 

I Made Another Change...

I know, I know.  Y'all are wondering why I'm STILL not sewing!  Hey I feel the same way...so much so it's affecting my mood! But my amazingly wonderful sewing room feels like a sauna when I'm up there for more than an hour or two.

(Photo from recent blog post)

Y'all I've tried everything but an air conditioning unit which I can't do because 

1. I rent

2. The amazing windows are on the far side of the loft, as in the living room, and the windows don't open. Plus I think I signed something in my lease about not having air conditioning units in my windows.

o I bought fans both to clip onto my sewing machine table and a large floor version, plus the upright fan I already owned.

o I closed the heating vent over my sewing machines to stop the heat from flowing onto my head.

None of this worked. I mean the fans cooled the room down for a few hours but after awhile I had a sweaty sheen covering me. Also, the best time to work in the room was morning/early afternoon.  After 4pm all bets were off.  Which is fine when I have a group of days off but doesn't really fit my sewing style since I sew in the evenings and later at night.

I began to dread heading up the stairs to my dream sewing room. Because I knew I would end up feeling like a turkey baking in the oven before Christmas dinner. YET my sewing desire was strong...so strong it was starting to choke me.  I put it off by crocheting on my last blanket, reading a couple of books and immersing myself in Bridgerton.  

However, my sewing desire would not be denied so I gave up and moved some things to my dining room.  My dining room which had previously been a junk space because there were bins of fabric that needed a home and I hadn't decided what to do with them prior to my surgery.

Moved my 9450 downstairs and left the 8900 upstairs

The dining room is much smaller than my sewing loft, probably half the size, so I settled with the cutting table against the wall.  Better to cut than not to cut at all!

The bins were moved upstairs to replace my cutting table and will be moved to my storage unit before I head back upstairs for spring, summer and fall sewing. This allows me to sew and work a little. In reality I mostly work from home on my laptop on a tray from the sofa and in front of my TV...but I can blog and surf the internet if I don't want to be on the sofa in the livingroom.

Now all of my supplies ~ zippers, buttons, threads and trims will remain upstairs.  It's easy enough to go upstairs and pull items I need for projects. All cutting, ironing/pressing and sewing will happen in the Winter Sewing Room. These are the first pictures taken of the space. A video tour of the finished room for now, is on my IG page.

And now that I'm not sweating to death to sew...I've finally started cutting out the Mildred Jumpsuit.

Right now my plan is to head back to the Sewing Loft when I turn the heat off in late March/April. Beyond that I have no idea what I'm doing. But then we have no idea what the world is going to look like since the pandemic is still raging and here in the US only 3% of the population has been vaccinated so far. I think I'm going to be home alone for quite a bit longer.

...as always more later!

The Changeover has happened

Is it just me or does it seem as if more sewists are sewing with Indie Patterns?  Is this another off shoot of 2020 and how it's changed our lifestyles?  I know I've written about this topic before, quite a few times actually, but especially here. And some of the makes I've made recently and like most are made from an Indie Pattern.

Fifteen versions of the Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

I've noticed that on Instagram there are way more Indie Patterns shared, at least in the sewists I follow, than Big 4. When Indie Patterns first showed up they had a casual lifestyle feel to them that didn't reflect my own life. As I've changed jobs and now due to a pandemic live at home for everything, my own wardrobe needs have changed. Needs that are being met more by the Indie Pattern designers than the Big 4.

Some days I even wonder if the Big 4 are going to survive?  There are now quite a few Indie Patterns for fat girls by fat girl designers AND quite a few of the Indie Pattern designers have sized their patterns up to larger sizes, 30+. Then there was that whole fiasco with the McCalls printing plant being shut down due to hackers which stopped EVERYONE from printing patterns!

Indie Patterns and PDF printing that seemed as if it would never be the mainstream seems to be all anyone talks about and uses now. I've even bought and had some PDF patterns printed and shipped to me.

So this is the first Question of the Day for 2021?  Have you noticed a change in your wardrobe due to the pandemic?  And if so, are you filling the need with items you're sewing from RTW, Big4 or Indie Patterns?

My sewing is changing too. This is what's on my cutting table right now...

Talk back to me!  Let me know how you ended your sewing in 2020 and how you're moving into 2021?

Also, thank you to everyone who responded to my last couple of posts! I know I've been posting erratically and so appreciate that y'all keep showing up!

...as always more later!

2020 - What a Year it's Been!

I haven't deliberately been avoiding my blog...I just haven't been sewing. As you know there were circumstances - moving, surgery.  Then I just didn't feel right yet. Here are a few updates...

The Sewing Loft ~

I thought it was because I hadn't been sewing in it but I realized a few things were missing.  So I dug out my old TV and DVD player and hooked them up. I realized that I did NEED a TV and images in my sewing room. That ended up changing when my daughter bought me a smart TV for Christmas to go in my sewing loft.

Honestly I love it! I can binge watch series I like from one of the apps or even watch live TV on some of the national stations...again downloading their apps.

I spent a couple days sewing up there after the weather turned very cold...and I learned that my HVAC system puts out an inordinate amount of heat.  Now I know why there were vents on the side of the HVAC closet! It took some purchasing but I ended up with three fans that cool the loft off considerably, as well as, closing the heating vent over my sewing area.  Will need to remember to open it back up wide once summer arrives.

After those changes were made, I spent five days in the loft making my first project for Janome. Will share that once it appears on the Janome blog. The loft is now a place where I will be spending quite a bit of my time going forward.

Fabric Update ~

After packing, moving and unpacking my fabric collection I vowed not to purchase any more fabric. Do you know someone actually called me a liar on Instagram? Interesting huh? Well I can say that no major fabric purchases have occurred since July 2020.

My final fabric in and out totals for 2020 are:  

In 100 yards/Out 192 yards

Almost double out than in which makes me happy. BTW, I have no plans for purchasing a whole lot of fabric now. After touching EVERY piece I own plus some that I found in bins in the garage, there isn't a type of fabric that I like to sew with that I don't already own. Unpacking all that fabric gave me fabric fatigue. I even delete fabric emails without looking at them now.

Moving and Surgery ~

As I was reflecting over the year, I realized that I basically stopped garment sewing in late July. I mean I've made some simple kitchen and bathroom curtains...and I even finished a UFO (refer to my last post). But the kind of involved sewing I love came to a dead stop when I moved.

I've also had two major surgeries this year. I bounced back quicker from the first one in July. Honestly, this last one is taking a little longer since I still get tired easily. So my last quarter output has been very little. I picked up my crochet hook and made four blankets - see them here (flip through this one) and here.

Due to all of the change in my life and the world because of Covid, I haven't really felt like reflecting on 2020.  I'm glad that it's gone and I'm ready to move on. Now I know that things are probably going to get a lot worse before they get better especially since Covid is on the rise in quite a few countries including the US. I also believe that there was a "before" and an "after" Covid. I no longer think that things will "go back to normal." We have new normals now.

However, after spending serious time in my Sewing Loft for the last five days, my sewing desire has come back with a vengeance. I have some new patterns, a lot of fabric and a need to create. And because I know live at home for everything, we're not expected to go back to the office until late Spring/early Summer or until more Americans receive the vaccines, I have a new idea of clothing to make. Garments I've been interested in but didn't work in my lifestyle which no longer matters because I'm home! LOL!

I will get the buttons & buttonholes on The Dover Jacket so it will be coming to the blog soon. I plan on sewing some more this weekend and that will be coming soon too...especially since I've found a place in the apartment where I can take a few pictures.

Anyway, all of that to say I'm finally back...like really back...and will be blogging more often in 2021.

 

Happy New Year!!!

...and as always more later!

 

Where Have I Been?

I posted back in late August that I would be having surgery in the fall.  Then I moved, set up a new sewing loft, unpacked the millions of yards of fabric I own, and attempted to sew my first project in the Sewing Loft.

Honestly I thought I would get back to the blog to post an update before I headed off to surgery. However, things did not go as planned and I ended up doing a lot of testing prior to the day of surgery.  After I had surgery, the next 16 days were a blur.  Major surgery is a butt-kicker for sure.

I ended up having a total hysterectomy.  Precancerous cells were found in biopsied cells from my uterus. I'd had surgery earlier in the summer, when NJ finally opened up from lockdown. 

To insure that I would not get any gynecological cancer in the future, I agreed to a total hysterectomy. My recovery has been interesting but I'm alive, back and feeling more like myself than I have in months.

I'm still in the recovery phase but I've allowed my daughters to go home. They stayed with me day and night after the surgery. I'm going to start walking around at lunchtime later this week to gain some stamina back when I will finally be allowed to climb the stairs to the Sewing Loft. I need the peace of spirit I find when I'm in the Sewing Loft.

Scarves and a blanket for the family

There hasn't been much sewing desire here but I can feel inklings of it returning. However, I have been crocheting like a crazy old lady to deal with stress and to have something creative to do.

Since I received a few emails, DMs on IG and messages here, I wanted to provide an update.  There will be more sewing content now that I'm on the mend.

...as always more later!