Blue Brocade Wool Crepe Dress & Jacket

...a review...

First, the patterns used for both of these garments are from my TNT pile. Chosen because fitting challenges are at a minimum and they belong to the list of patterns that I would take with me anytime, anywhere, anyplace! Patterns that are the cornerstone of my sewing.

Patterns:

Dress: Butterick 5932 (OOP)

Cardigan: Burda 8869 (OOP)

Fabrics:

3.5 yards of cadet blue/periwinkle blue worsted wool crepe from Fabric Mart

(Can't make up my mind what color to call it!)

1.5 yards "Cheval" fabric from Sawyer Brook

(I think of it as a brocade but it is probably more like a jacquard)

4 yards of a silky black polyester lining from Ebad Fabrics

Notions:

22" periwinkle (the pkg called it that) blue zipper

1/4" shoulder pads

Construction Techniques:

Since both patterns are TNT there were no fitting challenges...however, there were several design changes:

The Dress:

~I added homemade bias binding to the neckline of the dress.

~I also added lace to the lining's hem. I wanted to make the lining look like a slip attached to the inside of the dress instead of a typical lining. I really enjoy this look in my garments and will definitely use this technique again in future garments.

The lace on the hem of this lining was previously used in this outfit. I hand-dyed it and even though the black is a little softer now than the original, I think it works well here.

Whenever I want a well-fitted, fashionable dress or a great starting point to make my "interpretation" of, or even some crazy idea that I dreamed up while traveling back and forth to NYC, this is my jump-off pattern! It never disappoints!

The Cardigan:

Question:

How many ways and out of how many different fabrics can I make this pattern?

Answer:

As many as I want! *LOL*

I started with this pattern because it fits, it met my needs and because I can go buck wild with it doing whatever and still end up with an amazing garment! This time I took the journey using a woven fabric instead of a knit.

Design Changes:

~Normally I cut the back of the cardigan with a center back seam but because I wanted to preserve the design of and showcase the fabric, the back was cut on the fold.

~The front banding and sleeve hem bands were also cut from the pattern fabric to bring some of the design detailing to the front.

~To make allowance for the fact that the pattern calls for a knit - the seam on the sleeve was sewn with a 1/4" seam instead of a 5/8" seam. Thankfully that was all the extra space I needed for my bodacious arm flaps.

~Finally the body of the jacket is lined so that it will slide off and on easily. This was accomplished by cutting the front and back pattern pieces from lining, then sewing them together to form a shell. The shell was basted to the body of the fashion fabric, the band was attached to cover them and then hemmed together as one piece.

I believe I accomplished my goal...to make a beautiful outfit for work that fits into my company's corporate work environment yet allows me to express some of my own creativity. While the jacket's back doesn't blast "artistic" it isn't the norm and it does add a little spice. I can't wait to wear it to work!