Vogue 8623 is Done

This is the third piece in my SWAP Collection, "Midnight at the Oasis."  It's my "Your Choice" piece - chosen because I want it to go over everything in the collection.

Usually I have a list of alterations that I've made to the pattern to make it work for me...not so this time!  Because this is a "Custom Fit Pattern" that allows you to choose your cup size for your front pieces...and because this is a generously cut princess seam jacket pattern...I needed to make no alterations to either the jacket or the sleeves.

I can't remember the last time that I was able to sew a garment from the pattern without making ANY alterations!!!  So for the fact alone I love this jacket and plan to make it again!  Okay, some pics:

Jacket on Lulu open

Jacket on Lulu buttoned

A glimpse of the lining

A back view showing the pleat

Some stats:

Fabric:
navy wool tweed blend from the Vera Lavendar collection on fabric.com
light blue polyester lining also from the Vera Lavendar collection

Notions:
4 large blue & gold buttons from M&J Trimmings
4 large covered snaps from Pacific Trimmings

Construction:
The outer shell construction is pretty straightforward.  If you choose to make the jacket, just make sure that you carefully mark the pleat notches on the back jacket pattern piece.  Forming the back pleat is what gives the jacket interest and it's easy to do if you mark the fabric correctly.

The lining is what held me up.  I don't know what it is about me and jacket linings but I always feel like I need to take a deep breathe and set aside alot of time because each one makes me feel inadequate...even though this one inserts fairly easily, I did dance around it awhile before settling down and inserting it.  However, I did not serge finish the ends of the lining fabric which raveled terribly.  I stitched each seam twice - 1/8" between stitching lines and using my pinking shears, pinked each edge.  Then I pressed the seam lines flat.  Although I did serge finish the neckline and the hems of the sleeves and the jacket. 

The only change I made to the pattern was to fold over the fronts of the jackets 1" and attach the lining that way.  The pattern instructs you to make a second front from the fabric and interface it.  I just thought that with the fabric I was using this would make the front very bulky.  If you are using a smooth fabric, this won't be a problem, but no one wants all of that extra fabric on the front of them!

The lining was probably the most time-consuming issue besides all of the hand stitching needed to apply the snaps and the buttons.  Because even though the pattern envelope shows the jacket with buttons and buttonholes, the pattern instructions recommends buttons and snaps.

So three pieces down and eight more to go! *LOL*  I'm going to work on the bottoms next.  I'm making two pairs of pants from my TNT pattern and then I'm going to work on the tops.  With my trip to Moods, I bought the last piece of fabric that I need to make the tops and that will allow me to finish up the rest of the garments in the collection.  However, I have to tell you that I'm aching, I mean aching to work on a dress!  *LOL*  See I have a problem...

...as always, more later!