After finishing the Mildred Jumpsuit, I decided to sew something I'd previously made. I have a drawer in my cutting table holding the projects I cut prior to the move. When I was going through the drawer I found this project and it coordinates so well with my jumpsuit that it had to be sewn next.
1. I needed to sew something I'd made before that would encourage me to continue to sew, and
2. Why the hell not? I mean the pandemic is still here almost a year later from when we originally locked down. It's going to take a minute to vaccinate everyone for us to get to our new normal...so I'm going with it and sewing things.
Supplies ~
A patchwork denim fabric from Stylemaker Fabrics purchased in 2019. It's still available here.
Yds of Blue & White Bias Binding from Bessie Pearl Textiles
Remnants from this dress that I cut into a vest also remnants from jeans that I cut up to use for facings and pockets in other garments.
6 - 7/8" gold buttons from the deep stash button collection - I've had these for years!
Pattern Alterations & Construction Info. ~
I cut this out awhile ago but I believe there were no additional pattern alterations that weren't covered in the other two posts about this jacket. I did make one change to the jacket from the other versions.
o Instead of making the tucks in the sleeves, I gathered the sleeves into the ties.
o At the same time, I also topstitched a tuck into the cut opening in the sleeve hem to make it fit a little tighter.
o I used bias binding on all the interior seams since I really liked how the finishing looked in the first version.
o However, I bought a 1" double folded quilt binding and that's just too much binding on the seams.
o So I cut the binding at the main fold basically cutting it in half and giving me a lot more binding for my money.
o Since I used denim from previous makes, I made sure the lighter blue denim was cut for the collar and cuffs.
o The darker black denim scrap was used for the front facings.
Besides being extra careful sewing the seams because the denim's patchwork seams are bulky and making sure to grade the seams, I used three different thread colors on the jacket.
Yes, I have thread coordination issues...but choosing to topstitch in the gold jeans thread tied everything together and gave it a true denim jacket feel to me.
The Buttonholes ~
Finally adding the buttonholes and buttons were a little challenging because of all the patchwork seams. I tried hard to insure that I was making the buttonholes in between the patchwork seams but I wasn't always successful.
To make it easier for the automatic buttonholer I trimmed down all of the seams that were near the buttonholes. And STILL in some places the sewing machine struggled. I managed to get the six buttonholes made with patience and slow sewing...also accepting when they weren't perfectly lined up.
There is a little more and less space between the buttonholes because my sewing machine DID NOT care about being accurate when making the buttonholes. One is downright crooked but I'm leaning into the fact that my machine made all of the buttonholes and I didn't have to unpick any of them.
A Few Pictures ~
This will be the last time I use this pattern for awhile. I'm just not wearing jackets cause I'm not going outside. And at the rate America is vaccinating folks, Imma be working from home quite a bit longer.
I pulled some fabrics to make some winter Myosotis dresses so that's what's coming to the blog soon.
...as always more later!
This jacket looks amazing, and is a great sew. Why not sew during lock downs? Last year I did a garment a week when we were not leaving the house. I know what you mean re buttonholes near thick seams, my Janome complains a treat too. Sometimes I end up hand-finishing parts of buttonholes, just to get around the issue. You always inspire me: now, I better get back to that half-finished dress which went all awry on me :)
ReplyDeleteThe jacket looks great. I am sure you will use it come spring for short walks around the neighborhood.
ReplyDeleteDang, Carolyn
ReplyDeleteYou look great in that outside pic. When you come back from a mojo down period you give it your all! I am volunteering at Covid vaccine clinics giving outvaccine and now have no time to sew bu still fit in time to read blogs as they keep me motivated.
Yes, we will be being safe for some time still, but I know it will end. I have a piece of silk squarespieced fabric from awhile ago and now I know I will make a jacket/coat using this. Did you HongKong the finish on the inside? I do not want to line as it would weigh about a ton.
Great work. Pegeth
Peg - yes the seams are hong kong finished. And that's awesome that you're volunteering at a clinic!
DeleteAbby says....I love this jacket and I love your jumpsuit(but, i agree with you about the whole jumpsuit thing...I am not dipping my toe in that water...LOL). I am so glad that your sewing mojo came back, i am hopeful that my mojo, to create anything, comes back from wherever it has been hiding. thanks for sharing your makes and your thoughts...i truly appreciate seeing your blogposts come in to my inbox..have a great day, despite this crazy pandemic, and hope you keep creating your wonderful clothing.
ReplyDeleteI know I would never make a jumpsuit, my body is not suited for them at all. I think they look great but bathroom trips would be inconvenient. Yours looks great as always and I really love the patchwork jacket. It is so beautifully thoughtfully made with such attention to lovely details. You are inspiring.
ReplyDeleteI love the back yoke!
ReplyDeleteUltra cool jacket! Would your buttonholer attachment had an easier job if the holes were horizontal? I'm making my client, Nancy, a similiar jacket with gathering in the back but the front is shaped with princess lines. She would love your pattern!
ReplyDeletemrsmole - that was my original thought to make horizontal buttonholes but the facings isn't big enough. It was definitely designed for vertical buttonholes. However it worked out and that's what's important!
DeleteI am glad you discovered this project! It goes beautifully with the jumpsuit, and looks really nice.
ReplyDeleteGreat job. I love how the squares on the back yoke tilt up, very flattering. I also think the squares give a bit of optical illusion and the fact that the buttonholes are uneven is hidden by that. You did well with this challenge. Is there any computerized machine that can deal with bumps? I"ve yet to see one. I go to my vintage mechanical Kenmore for buttonholes. So much better. Great ensemble, Carolyn.
ReplyDeleteThis looks fantastic, and I think you will wear it with several outfits. A denim jacket is a classic! I love the thread choices too... you can see it, so why not?
ReplyDelete