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Saturday, April 23, 2011

Butterick 5600 - Pattern Alterations

Once I decided to use my TNT dress pattern as the basis for my pattern alterations, fit became a non-issue in getting the dress started.  It was so easy once that step was added...so even though I will show you the pattern alteration pictures...I think the thing that should be taken away from this exercise is that everyone should have a TNT pattern or sloper that they can use to make alterations to their patterns.  If you have alot of alterations to make, using a sloper/TNT pattern definitely makes the job alot easier.

Pattern Alterations:
That being said...I made a pattern sandwich for the dress front - my TNT dress pattern, the Butterick 5600 dress front piece and a piece of my lovely Dick Blick tracing paper.  (I love that stuff, btw!)  Once you lay the three pieces together its so easy to see where to trace to get the necessary width for the dress. 


The only tricky part is to remember to add the front yoke piece so you have an accurate reading of how the dress lands.  I did change the dart on the dress based upon my TNT dress pattern...it's a little lower on the Butterick piece.  So I added width, length and altered the dart for the front piece.


Since the back has a yoke, I laid the TNT dress back pattern, the back yoke and the back lower piece and then the tracing paper to form my pattern sandwich.  Again, adding the necessary width was a breeze with the TNT pattern beneath the Butterick pattern.


I also adjusted the short sleeve pattern for my bodacious biceps.  I'm using View C with the tabbed sleeves for my rendition.

Cutting:
Cutting out was interesting because I had to make sure that the front and back pieces ended at the exact same spot. To insure that I had a continuous border print, the front and back pieces were laid side by side...I even measured from the selvedge to make sure they were equal.  Then how to use the darker areas of the border print to highlight the fabric was another choice to be made...but it's all cut out as evidenced below:


And that's where I left it last night when I went to bed...this morning though I woke up thinking that this dress needs a lining.  My linen is a little lightweight and you know I hate see-through...and I think I dreamed how to add a lining to the construction process...

Anyway, I'm off to sew for a few hours...

...more later!
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19 comments:

  1. FiveAcresApril 23, 2011 10:55 AM

    I like how you describe how to use your TNT to fit a new pattern. Do you have any recommendations about how to set about developing one's own TNT?

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  2. UnknownApril 23, 2011 11:57 AM

    I have a question. I know that you have made your own sleeve pattern that fits you well. I can't remember what dress it was on, for some reason I think it was the black lace one. I have found that set in sleeves can be interchanged with any pattern, why not use the pattern that you made yourself?

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  3. UnknownApril 23, 2011 12:09 PM

    That is a great idea. Now I just need to work out the TNT dress sloper part! I can't wait to see your finished dress. As I have said before you are my sewing hero!!

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  4. Lauren R.April 23, 2011 12:20 PM

    This looks like it will be beautiful. I love the fabric. can't wait to see the finished product!

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  5. UnknownApril 23, 2011 1:06 PM

    I can't wait to see the finished dress! I really need to set about making my own TNT pattern so I can do this. Its looks like such an easy way to make alterations! :)
    Ashley x

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  6. reneeApril 23, 2011 1:51 PM

    Thanks for the detail of how to use your TNT as the basis for alterations. I had wondered exactly how you do this but hadn't really sat down to think it through.

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  7. DanaApril 23, 2011 2:00 PM

    Very productive! I loving it when I dream about sewing.

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  8. shamsApril 23, 2011 2:02 PM

    I love that yellow Dick Blick paper too. I think it was Kathryn (fxzdoc) who first turned me on to it!

    This is gonna be gorgeous!

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  9. sdBevApril 23, 2011 2:58 PM

    WOW what a great way to alter patterns. This needs to be written up in detail and submitted to Threads!

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  10. TanyaApril 23, 2011 3:51 PM

    I can't wait to see that fabric in your finished dress.

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  11. UnknownApril 23, 2011 3:53 PM

    Your detailed explanation of how you are using your TNT pattern to fit the new pattern is very helpful. It really makes sense since you have already worked out the fit you like, now you need to transfer this fit to your new pattern.
    I am anxious to start my own TNT collection. Thank you so much for your inspiration. I agree with Laney you are a sewing hero.

    Thank you
    Marie

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  12. VickiApril 23, 2011 6:22 PM

    Looks like a very productive day. TNT's are worth their weight in gold. That is why I am on day 3 of getting a classic jacket TNT muslin fitted. Boy does it take time, but I am dreaming at night of all the gorgeous jackets I can make from the fabric I already have in the stash!! lol

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  13. AnonymousApril 23, 2011 7:38 PM

    Thank you, thank you, thank you. I knew there must be a faster way. You have a big heart to share so freely with us all. Thanks so much for all the time and effort you put in to photograph these steps for newbies like me.

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  14. DharmaApril 23, 2011 9:20 PM

    I am loving that fabric. I don't know what I am doing when it comes to fitting. I am ok with side seams, but the rest makes me nervous.
    Can't wait to see your "in-progress" dress!

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  15. KayeApril 24, 2011 11:21 AM

    I love your technical sewing stories! Carolyn, if you can do this altering with tracing paper, then tracing out a BWoF pattern is no big deal - and I know you hate the thought of that. On another note, I would LOVE to hear more from you about how you store your stash. Do you store things in boxes, bags, open in stacks? I know this has come up before but I can't recall these details.

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  16. RoseApril 24, 2011 2:34 PM

    I'm another fan of the Dick Blick tracing paper. Thanks for the details of how you use it with your TNT pattern.

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  17. JaneApril 24, 2011 10:05 PM

    Thank you for your posts Carolyn, they are so innovating. I look forward to learning from you.

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  18. annieApril 25, 2011 6:36 PM

    I fantasize about sewing more than I sew but loooove the idea of a TNT pattern and liked other comments here about TNT patterns. I guess when you've made a pattern enough, you need not make a muslin.

    Also as a semi regular reader I finally got around to reading about blog comments - really interesting. I'll try to comment more often.

    In thanks for hosting this website I'd like to leave a boquet of scarlet tulips for you (isn't that an appropriate hostess gift!). Instead of emoticons I need flowercons!

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  19. ClioApril 26, 2011 3:45 PM

    LOL - I think it is awesome that your subconscious sews, too.

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