This week I want to talk about the almost finished projects in the sewing room. I have four shirts - all hemmed just waiting for buttons & buttonholes. All buttons in the pictures below are pinned on.
The Brownish/Black Embroidered Shirt
The Angel Shirt
The Purple Reign Polka Dot Shirt
Simplicity 8992
...and with all of that waiting to be finished, what do I do? I start a new project after I said that I was going to sew something simple. This is not a simple project!
Buttons from Pacific Trimmings
So this upcoming weekend will be dedicated to finishing everything. And if the weather is okay, maybe a few pictures.
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Like I said I started a new project Sunday evening. It's been awhile since I've used a new pattern and there was a mix of emotions when I pulled that neatly folded pattern paper from the envelope. Some excitement regarding the new sewing journey, a little dread because I knew I would need to make some pattern alterations and a feeling of ahhhh. You know that feeling of calm that comes over you because SEWING! Do you experience that when you start working with a new pattern? Which brings me to the next thing...
ooooooooooo
The Big4 - Simplicity, Butterick, McCalls and Vogue Patterns have been sold AGAIN. I found out on social media...
c/o of syreetabriana's IG Account
c/o dressmakingdebacles IG Account
Then a follower (thanks Renata!) sent me a link to the article here. Take a read because it's an interesting article and let me know what you think. I tend to agree with Abby about the fate of the Big4.
That's Week Two in Review - a progress report and a discussion of news in the sewing community.
...as always more later!
Interesting news about CSS Industries. Like you, I sew both Big 4 (mostly Vogue) and indie patterns (mostly Cashmerette) so I've got a personal interest in what happens as a result of this takeover. I've just had a look at Design Group's latest annual report (to March 2019). It's an international group (53% of its revenue in 2018/19 arose in the USA), it's profitable and a major player in its markets. However, reading about its activities, there's nothing much there to suggest that dress pattern making will work well for this group. As is the case with many mergers and acquisitions, the acquiring company may just quietly dispose of the parts of the group that don't fit well with its portfolio of activities. If they do decide to keep it, perhaps they could give the stable of patterns a design makeover, which wouldn't come amiss - they look really old-fashioned and dowdy compared to some of the more design-aware indie patterns. What I'd very much like to see (as I'm based in the UK) is a reduction in prices. My last Vogue purchase - of a pretty simple pattern - cost me £17.50, which is not much different from the price of an indie pattern. An indie pattern for me is better value, because indies tend to provide much better instructions and often, as in the case of Cashmerette or Liesl & Co, whose patterns I also use, significant support on their website.
ReplyDeleteI don't sew many indie patterns. To me, most are extremely simple in design and silhouette, and I feel as though I already have a lot of those types of patterns in my stash. I do see the appeal for newer sewists, however. Plus the convenience of pdf downloads means having patterns literally at ones' fingertips.
ReplyDeleteThe only indie patterns I gravitate towards are Stylearc. Chloe Parker has her finger on the pulse of up-to-date styles that look good on a variety of ages.
I too got wind of the sale on social media. I'm really concerned about the sale, and how the pattern brands will fare. Vogue Patterns in particular. For me, Vogue Patterns is the gold standard in patterns and directions for sewing garments. Since I don't really sew indie patterns, I can't speak to how detailed the instructions are. However, given the more basic silhouettes, one would think that there should be simpler instructions accompanying the patterns.
Carolyn, the Angel Shirt looks wonderful! I think the placement of the major motifs is great: I love the way the roses cluster toward the neck and the frame is reminiscent of a sweetheart neckline. Well done (and expert save)!
ReplyDeletePeter of the recent four shirt makes, the Angel Shirt is my favorite too, and thank you!
DeleteAs far as the Big 4 goes, I feel sorry only for the employees who have to deal with the constant shifts in direction as well as the uncertainly of what the future will hold. This is a situation where I wish the employees could purchase the company and run it themselves--these things happen (but mostly abroad).
ReplyDeleteI love your Purple Reign shirt. I get that "sewing" feeling when I start a new project. It's therapy for me. Thanks for sharing your process.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the link to the article. I think big 4 have always served us well - pattern instructions notwithstanding. New sewists see them first, and I think that's important. They are also during sales, much less expensive than indies. But I do lots of indies too.
ReplyDeleteI love all your makes but that purple - omagosh how lovely!! Always inspiring.
Like Peter I agree that the fabric pattern placement on the angel shirt is perfection. The purple shirt would be a great Mardigras (sp?) shirt! Karen
ReplyDeleteI like to sew, but STINK at fitting and pattern alteration. Any suggestions how I can get around those roadblocks, please and thank you?
ReplyDeleteCurious Daylily - very few sewists fit patterns right out of the envelope so unless you want to take up sewing for children, making quilts or craft sewing, fitting and pattern alterations go hand in hand with making garments work. Those are my suggestions.
DeleteI would like to add that after too many years to count -- and way too much money spent on patterns -- the fit issue is one thing that the Big 4 just don't handle very well, particularly when compared with some of the more robust indie makers. Newbie sewists, who see those big pattern catalogs at a fabric store, often don't know that the pattern is merely the first step in owning a good-looking, well-fitting, unique garment. Often, the manufacturer touts "easy" on the pattern envelope, and the garment is essentially an ill-fitting sack. "Easy" doesn't have to be just four or fewer pieces -- add a few seams and/or a few darts, and help the newer sewist see how fit happens. I would miss the Big 4 if they disappear, but I have always thought that they just don't deliver on how to make a home-sewn garment fit well, in the way that indie pattern-makers have.
DeleteStepping off my soapbox to visit the HUNDREDS of patterns that I have in my sewing room, which may become collector's items soon.
As always, Carolyn, I love your thoughtful/creative posts. The shirts are fabulous!
The responsibility goes both ways. Patterns are a guide. They are made to fit a spectrum of thousands of sewists. It is our responsibility to figure out if we are swayback, have a forward shoulder, tilted pelvis, etc. etc. etc. We need to stop blaming the Big One pattern company for our lack of effort in learning to fit ourselves. I have/had a bod that fit nothing retail or sewing, and had to learn. If I can, so can everyone else. We need to stop looking for the Holy Pattern Grail and learn to fit ourselves. Is it easy? Sort of. Does it take a long time? Yes, took me decades. That was before the internet and great teachers available. Today it is not that hard at all to learn great fit. Stop dissing the Big Four because you can't fit a pattern. Just learn that skill set.
DeleteAngel and Purple Reign shirts are over the top wonderful.
ReplyDeleteI can only say I wish that a company who is actually interested in the sewing pattern business could buy and own the pattern companies. As we've talked about, people look to social media only and decide that means *everyone* is sewing Indie patterns. We're still at a point where the majority of home sewers are not posting and hashtagging all over sm. There was a time when I would think of a pattern in my stash and just buy the style of it, I knew if it was a Vogue vs Butterick vs McCall vs Simplicity before I went to look for it. I've found with the latest releases I sometimes have to rack my brain a bit or I don't narrow the stash down by brand at all (except for Vogue - these last 2 releases have been amazing for me). I don't actually think there's a fail here wrt to design - people compare the 2 but honestly, what Indie company is consistently putting out *INTERESTING* patterns? Doesn't exist. I do think the voice of each company has been lost with the merger. I do think it would be 100% okay if they pared the releases down so that there isn't so much unnecessary repetition.
ReplyDeleteAnd, I don't think it'll go the way people think it'll go should the Big4 fail. Many (most?) of us who sew primarily Big4 have a sizeable pattern stash. It won't be all or none; we're not going to all suddenly glom on to Indie patterns.
Gah. I think I'm just really sick of the comparisons. Losing the Big4 would be TERRIBLE. People want to convince themselves that the Indies are taking over. They spent years before the CSS buyout convincing themselves that "Big4" was some mega-corp (hint: it wasn't). Ugh. Annoying!
Anyway, you already know how I feel about the purple shirt sooooooo :-p Can't wait to see all of them modeled!
Very well said!
DeleteAgree, I think the indies mostly copy each other. If you see 1 boxy top, you soon see 4 more. With the Big 4, I've been sewing for so long that I know how to make those patterns fit. I know every alteration that's needed. With indies, it would be a ton of work to figure that all out because they are all so different. The sale may be good for those in the UK and Europe. They may finally get patterns at a decent price. But I can't see what other good it will do.
Deletecarolyn, thanks for the link to abby's page. i found the comments very provocative. some new information but mostly ingredients for my mental 'stew', much appreciated! i cannot see how smashing the 4 brands under a large corporate umbrella can do anything but deplete their character. just an opinion.--anne
ReplyDeleteI am digging your week in review. If only I had photos - maybe I could manage to keep something like this up to date. I counted today and I have 5 dresses, 2 tops, 2 skirts, a pair of pants, a cardi and 3 shawls that need glamour shots. Just need to schedule it.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you pulled S8687, that's the one I was thinking would be a good starting point for V1678. The angel shirt is a wonderful save! The red buttons really pop! But I love the purple shirt for some reason - the gold details are marvelous! Looking forward to the finishes. g
The angel shirt is lovely! Well done on salvaging it - another phoenix from the ashes.
ReplyDeleteAs for the sale of the pattern company... not sure what my feelings are to be honest. Huge compassion for the employees and simultaneously how many pattern companies/ patterns do we actually need in the world? Sometimes feels like there is a lot of dross/ basics/similar styles to navigate - across the board! - and the Big 4 are really dear in the UK. I love Style Arc, but hate pdfs (due to eco angst and impatience).... complex thoughts for something meant to be a hobby!
The Purple Reign shirt is brilliant. I mean, I WANNNNNNNT brilliant. It's smart and gorgeous and going to be a 'first reach' item, I'm sure.
ReplyDeleteAnd thanks for the link to the Glassenberg article: I saw the IG post but it's been family busy here. I've noticed the rebranding of the .... nameplates? of the Big4, and was surprised/not surprised at all at the Costume pattern catalog at Joann's yesterday. For one, I feel for the people who will lose their jobs in the continued consolidation that will happen. Another, I noticed the Vogue book is DINKY, relatively speaking. This all started before the acquisition, so I assume it will continue.
Interesting times we live in.
Girl, the shirts are absolutely fabulous! Love the cozy sweater too. You've got me thinking about having another shirt project. ;-) Thanks for the encouragement. I really like your plans for the new Simplicity dress pattern.
ReplyDeleteWhat is really going on with the pattern companies? What does all this selling and buying mean? Will they combine the Big 4 or what's next?
Anyway, I know what we'll be doing: SEWING! Lol Take care, girl, and keep up the good work.
Your shirts look great! You have accomplished so much!
ReplyDeleteI too have that same feeling when I start a new pattern. It is such a rush of positive energy and possibilities.
I am sad to hear about the Big 4, and hope this is a good change. I LOVE to sew Big 4. I adore Indie patterns also, but the Big 4 has my heart. My favorite memories involve going out early Saturday morning, coffee in hand, and flipping through the newest pattern catalog books. I get that you can look at the styles online, but this is still one of my favorite things to do. :)
I'm eager to see S8687. This is a pattern that's been on my radar for a while; it's one of my make9 for 2020.
ReplyDeleteLike Peter said, the way the flowers on the angel shirt frame the neck area is perfect.
I have a few thoughts on the CSS acquisition:
First, people are commenting that the new owners, DG, are buying something outside of their normal portfolio. It looks to me like Simp McVoguerick was owned by one Party City and sold to another Party City, so...what's the difference? I wish a company whose main objective is sewing could own the Big 4 as it would be more on line with their offerings.
Second, indie pattern companies (IPCs) are no comparison to the Big 4. I just do not understand how one could believe IPCs are going to surpass the Big 4, Burda, New Look in market share. The major companies have *decades* of experience in drafting and pattern-making and are not going to crash and burn because an insta-famous home sewer starts a pattern line. The indie pattern market is over-saturated and fraught with errors/questionable drafting. I recognize their popularity among many people, but it seems more fad-like than anything else.
I am not against all IPCs, just indifferent about the majority of them. I like Cashmerette and Jalie because Jenny (Cashmerette) hired professional pattern drafters and Jeanne (Jalie) has decades of experience and was professionally trained in pattern-making.
I'd like to know more about this "activist investor." How common a practice is this?
People are so vested in the concept of "Indies taking over!" that it almost feels like they *wish* for the Big4's downfall. I have read every word I can find on the topic and read something about them "needing to do xyz to show they are proven experts at patternmaking". That makes me brain hurt.
DeleteAnd, agreed about IG Design vs. CSS. Different how ?
the pattern placement on the angel shirt is so spot on!!!
ReplyDeleteI haven't bought a bit 4 pattern for years. Too expensive here in Australia. Much easier to download a PDF from anywhere in the world...and no postage cost. BTW, love the purple reign shirt. You NEED to finish that one to get onto your back ASAP :)
ReplyDeleteHere, I rarely buy an Indie pattern, maybe two or three in the past five years, too expensive, designs usually too boring and the printing, forget it. With Indies I have to remake the fit with every designer, every garment, every pattern company. With the Big Four I do the exact same alterations to every company and have perfect fit. I learned this from Nancy Zieman's fitting methods and she says that's the advantage. What you do to one to get it to fit, you do to the others. Do designers use varying amounts of ease? Of course they do, it's there prerogative. Again, this goes back to a skill set that checks these things to see if they work with my figure and the pattern design. I don't want to do this for every Indie out there. Life is too short. And the printing, and the taping, fugetabotit.
DeleteI think the challenge here is global as well as age. I do use Indie Patterns but only those that provide a paper option. I have too many issues with pdf patterns cost, use of paper and the double charge if you use a printing service. Social media also extols the value and availability of the pdf pattern. However, there is still a large market in the US that sews, only using the Big4 and isn't on social media. So do I believe losing the Big4 will change the landscape of sewing in America - hell yes! Do I believe that pattern companies will continue to exist as we know them now - no I don't. They have so far been unable to find a working method that sustains profitability for the company and invigorates sewing across the board age-wise and globally. Do I believe that Indie pattern makers will take over the world? Well at least not for my generation but who knows what happens going forward.
DeleteWhat I thought was interesting was the price of each company when CSS bought them. Yes, McCalls is just patterns, while Simplicity owns wallpaper and other stuff. But the price of Simplicity was like 5 times higher than McCalls. I wonder why? Does that mean one is more profitable than the other? Or just bigger? What changes were made when they were brought together by CSS? I also fear that some in the industry believe garment sewing is a dying art and that quilting is where its at. Thats what the sewing machine industry thinks. It's not looking good.
DeleteYou are so becoming the Queen of Shirts, oh my! I read that CSS article. What do I think? I am scared, just scared. I don't want to be forced into a PDF world that I don't care to participate in. Please,Lord, let there be paper patterns!
ReplyDeleteI just want to add how much I enjoyed, respected, and was amazed by your interview on Sewcialists. You are amazing.
Bunny - thanks for this entire comment. You know how much I love sewing the same garment type/pattern over and over. I like exploring all the things that it can become and it allows you to take flights of fancy when you've got the fit worked out. Also, thank you for reading the Sewcialist interview. It is appreciated.
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