It got me to thinking. How many other sewists who have followed me for years have assumptions about me? Well sewing assumptions. Anything else I'm not that concerned about! *LOL* Maybe it's time to debunk a few myths.
So the floor is OPEN. Ask me anything sewing related that you think I may or may not do. Please note this is sewing related. I DO NOT talk about where I work, what I do, my friendships or anything really personal. This is the internet and it holds things FOREVER! And believe it or not, some companies do check the internet for background checks for jobs, etc. No, I'm not looking for a job but you never know...
So do you assume I make a muslin? Do you assume I'm anal about pattern placement? Or thread choices? Or do you have a question about my processes? State your answers or questions and I will answer all!
This is not quite a Question of the Day...more like as Joan Rivers, bless her soul, use to say, "Can We Talk?"
...as always more later!
Hi Carolyn, my question is....when you buy a pattern from an independent designer do you go through a checklist of their values and ethics? As in, you wouldn't buy from them, even if you like the style of the pattern, if they don't support certain values? What would make you go - nah, I won't buy that because....?
ReplyDeletePearl Red Moon - regarding your checklist of indie pattern maker values, I don't use enough of them for that to be a huge consideration. I don't use 1 or 2 because of stances they've made toward the plus size community and no I won't name them because they're small businesses and I'm not out to wreck someone's business. So I guess if I use them, I'm okay with them but again let me stress that I don't use a lot of Indie patterns.
DeleteHi Carolyn, yours is my very favourite blog! Love ya all the way from little Enfield, Uk.
ReplyDeleteDo you mske Muslins? Do you mark darts with chalk or thread, do you pin or wing it? Also, how many hours a week do you sew on average? Zoey
Zoey - thanks for signing your name! Do I make muslins? No. I don't believe a muslin equals a well-fitting garment. Heresy I know. I believe that we all make wearable muslins the first time we use a pattern and that only after wearing it all day do we actually know if it will fit our lifestyles and what changes to make to the pattern going forward.
DeleteDo I mark darts with chalk or thread? I use tracing paper to mark my darts and never wing it!
How many hours do I sew a week? Oh this is determined by whether I feel like sewing or not. Some weeks 20+ hours, some not at all. I do not sew as much now as I use to!
I like that sentiment: The first time you make a pattern is always a wearable muslin...
DeleteI like that statement also. My first use of the pattern is a wearable muslin as well - even if it gets trashed--lol.
DeleteThank you Carolyn. I don't muslin either. I'm clearly in good company 😌
DeleteZoey
DeleteIf sewing with a definitive pattern -- like horizontal stripes (which you don't usually do, I know) -- and the pattern is off grain, do you align your pattern piece with the grain or the printed/woven/knit pattern? The off-grain might not fall right, but the visual effect of "not lining up" is horrible -- which do you pick?
ReplyDeleteWow that's a lot of question! Mmmm, I generally trash off-grain fabric. It's not worth the time and effort and your finished garment will always be a little off.
DeleteOoh, I always love it when you open the floor to sewing discussions. That's exactly why I read your blog. I know I will be checking in daily to see what others are asking.
ReplyDeleteTheresa - thanks! And thank you for following along and commenting so often! You know how much I love a comment! :)
DeleteI'm wondering about your closet, actually. You are relatively productive in your seasonal creations, and I wonder if you reorganize your clothing storage periodically. I imagine you have a whole row of those wonderful border-print tops -- do you have different capsules you wear them with? And do you pull unworn items for donations from time to time?
ReplyDeletejmsx3 - I have a mid-size walk-in closet with a set of drawers that hold my jeans/leggins/knit pants, 2 dresser units (6 & 8 drawers) and a hanging unit in my bedroom. I use the hanging unit primarily for shirts and they're hung up randomly! I primarily wear my shirts over leggings, jeans or knit pants. I do donate at least once a year but I try to do it twice when seasons change.
DeleteHi Carolyn,
ReplyDeleteI consider you a pretty professional sewist so I am wondering if you pin patterns to fabric or use weights? Also, scissors or rotary cutter?
Thank you for your blog. I enjoy all of your posts.
Liz
I'm a pins & scissors sewist. Old habits die hard!!!
DeleteOh I’m pleased to read this Carolyn! I feel like I’m in the minority watching so many whacking weights onto fabric, and it’s a miracle anything is ever still on grain when using a rotary cutter if you have to keep moving the cutting board about underneath…rant over!
DeleteSue - I realize I'm old school but this works for me and I don't have the grain issues you mention. So I'm sticking with what works!
DeleteSo, I've got two-I started reading your blog when you were in the corporate world and you had your TNT's then...Do you think you would ever revisit those TNT's-either as you would have made them then or updating favorites to your now?
ReplyDeleteSecond. as the Exalted Queen Mother of TNT's (with a hat tip to the Red Hat Society title), what are your TNT techniques?
I ask that because I was struggling with a tower placket on a shirt sleeve and ended up putting it in the naughty pile. Then I noted in your blog post you used a continuous lap. And it was like a light dawning, for years, I used continuous lap not tower plackets. Finished the shirt.
Pal K - no I won't revisit my corporate TNT patterns. They don't fit my lifestyle now AT ALL! I'm glad though that I documented that stage or all of that sewing would have been lost!
ReplyDeleteLet's start with my primary TNT technique - make it again and again until the fit is perfect and I can only imagine using different fabrics and trims to make each one unique. Also may I state here that I'm lazy and I hate the fitting that you have to do with each new pattern. I'm not a straight out of the pattern envelope sewist so each one needs a process. I'd rather just sew so I opt for TNT patterns 75% of the time!
Hi Carolyn! I have followed your blog for more than ten years now and always love to read it. Thank you for being so generous with your time and creativity.
ReplyDeleteMy question is, when you do buy a new pattern, what do you look for? Are you inspired by a type of garment you want to sew, and look for a similar pattern, or is it usually the pattern itself that calls to you? Is there anything (other than pdf assembling) that would make you avoid a pattern if you liked the style?
Lyndle - when purchasing a new pattern, several things can inspire me:
Delete1. The look of the pattern itself
2. If it reminds me of a garment that I've saved to my inspiration folder
3. If it's a style I like to wear
Also I'm a look for a pattern to make the kind of garment I want. I've purchased quite a few pdf patterns lately because I don't have to tape them together. I send them to Blue Cup Shop printing on etsy. Though I'm still not a huge fan of them and prefer pattern companies that offer me both options.
Hi Carolyn! Thank you for all your sewing inspiration on this blog. My question is, what is your criteria for purchasing fabric and is there any fabric out there that you would love to have in your collection? Janet
ReplyDeleteHi Janet! I think it's easier to talk about the fabrics I don't like than the ones I do. Because the ones I love are in the fabric collection! I don't like chiffon (poly or silk). I don't like brushed knits. I think there's a third one but I can't think of it right now.
DeleteWhen I was sewing during my corporate days, I bought fabric in 5 - 10 yard lengths depending upon how many pieces I wanted to coordinate...dress, skirt, pants. Then when I switched to casual it was 3-4 yards because I was making mostly shirts and dresses. Lately I've gone back to 5-6 yards because of all the tiered dresses I'm making. Also, I mostly love working with woven fabrics. I know people love knits but I love linens, cottons and wools.
Hi Carolyn, I have 2 questions. The first is where would you recommend a first time shopper in New York City go if she had 1 day and if she had 2 days to explore? My second question is about your process for working with border prints. You are amazing at making border prints fresh and creative. Are there specific questions you ask yourself or things you look for when planning how to use a border print? Thank you so much for your blog, I learn every time I read it. Mari
ReplyDeleteHi Mari!
DeleteSo Question 1: Fabric Shop the first day and go to Mood, Metro Textiles and Chic Fabrics. Make sure you stop by Pacific Trimmings and Daytona Trims. On your second day, I would definitely stop by the Metropolitan Museum of Art and take in the latest fashion collection and visit the Temple of Dendur. Definitely walk the High Line, stop by Times Square and eat. There are so many great restaurants in NYC.
Question 2 re: border prints. Here is a link to a search of all I've written on border prints on the blog: https://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.com/search?q=border+prints - I'm sure these posts will more than answer all of your questions about my use of border prints since I've written extensively about it.
Dear Carolyn, what a great idea for a discussion. I found your blog at least 10 years ago, and it is a joy to read and learn from you. Thank you for telling us you do not trace! I never have, and have been sewing for over 60 years. (yes, 60!) However since reading many 'modern' blogs and Insta posts, I have been trying to force myself to trace and trial patterns, and make many more muslins. And my sewing has gotten worse! As you so rightly point out, only by wearing the garment do we really fine tune the fit, and I find making a muslin, from whatever fabric, has a different result from the intended garment fabric. I shall go forth fearlessly again, with no tracing or muslins. Loving all the questions and answers. I would like to know how you file your sewing patterns. As my husband says, I have no idea how to file anything :)
ReplyDeletePatricia - thanks for hanging around and reading for so many years. I do believe you should do what works for you. Why I still pin and cut with scissors. It works for me and I don't know why I need to change. *LOL* As for filing, my patterns - everything (envelope, instructions, cut & uncut pieces) is stored in legal sized vanilla expanding folders. I buy the 3" ones. They're filed in plastic drawers and filing cabinets. I've had more elaborate filing systems over the years but found that this works best for me.
DeletePatricia and readers--I file patterns by garment type. That way I can choose a jacket, skirt, dress, etc. quickly while in the design process, I also have a couple files for suits/wardrobe
Deletepatterns. This is a simple system that doesn't require a lot of decision-making once you set it up. Oh, and I use hanging files but Carolyn's preference for the expandable ones would certainly be worth a try.--anne
Absolute favorite women's clothing patterns? Thanks! I started sewing clothing in 7th grade. By the time I was 20 I was onto quilts, bags and home decor. With the pandemic and retirement I'd like to get back to clothing.
ReplyDeleteHi Carolyn, thanks so much for this opportunity. Everything always fits you so well so I am wondering what you do to accomplish that. Do you have certain alterations that you do automatically to a pattern or maybe have some type of template? Thanks again and I can't tell you enough how much I enjoy reading your blog.
ReplyDeleteKim - I'm going to be honest. The majority of my makes now are loose fitting garments. Some of it is due to weight gain, some of it is because of health concerns and some because of age. Since I choose looser fitting patterns to start there is only so much fitting needed. Now if you'd asked me that question a few years ago there would have been an entire conversation. But now, I make sure that there is more than enough ease in the abdomen and hip area. I make sure that there is enough width in my sleeves to house my bodacious arms and I try to pick simple styles where the fabric can shine.
DeleteCarolyn Hi, I too have been reading your blog forever... thoroughly enjoying the read. Lots of Aha moments when I see or read something you have pointed out. I too like Anonymous have been since 7th grade (or longer since Barbie clothes were the starting point) and have found enjoyment in it all.
ReplyDeleteI really don't have a question; just something in re-guard to something you posted (at least I'm pretty sure it was you...lol). A long time ago you posted that if we decide to donate fabric etc... that we have decided doesn't fit our wants/needs/likes any more that our local schools might find them useful. I love it! Pre-Covid I called a local High School about donating with no return call. Which I get, teachers are busy. But I did get a return call from a Junior High school teacher (actually the drama teacher) who was ecstatic about excepting donations... they were doing a play and wouldn't you know... the fabric I had to donate was just what they needed. Thank you for all you do and share. I realize that basically you are writing mostly to document your sewing but you really do a lot for the rest of us. Keep us the good work. Jean
Thanks Jean for being a faithful reader and commenter!
DeleteCarolyn,
ReplyDeleteMy fabric choices are a big box store an hour away or on-line. I've make about 10% mistakes trying to match colors etc. Any tips? and also Please share your favorite sewing thread. Do you match color, fiber content? Has sewing on a new machine changed your choice of threads or fabric?.
I love that you trash off-grain fabric. Me too. If I don't like it now I'll probably never like it.
Susan
Hi Susan! First my favorite thread is Gutterman Mara 100 that I buy in 1094 yards from Wawak. Yes, I'm a firm believer in matching color to my garments in the thread I use in my sewing machine and serger. Probably why I have a pretty extensive collection of both kinds of threads! And I used Gutterman on my other Janomes so have just continued to use it on my new machine. They seem to like the Gutterman thread!
DeleteMatching colors online and even instore can be challenging. I have an idea of what I like and tend to buy just those colors...more than often something matches. If not I either use it to coordinate or color block in garments.
I just wanted to throw it out there that there are custom print fabric shops online that will color match fabrics for you, and ones that list in the description the colors that are in the print so you can search by color and find matches! One that I like to use is raspberrycreekfabrics.com as they have a really large selection of bases to choose from. They also just added a new section with designs from independent artists! I buy from so many different fabric stores, but this one is just easy to buy from and has very good prices.
DeleteCarolyn, thanks for the great discussion forum today. I used to think that I should trace patterns and make muslins, but I just don't want to so I don't. I did make a quick mockup recently of a new pattern because I didn't want to cut out my fabric only to have it be a total loss. I'm glad I did because it made me realize that I wouldn't like the top if I made that pattern. I'm always glad to read your blog and look forward to your posts.
ReplyDeleteMy question do you use the expensive thread or just regular Coats thread?
Connie - I use Gutterman Mara 100. I haven't used Coats & Clarks in decades!
DeleteHi Carolyn - I renewed my love of sewing when I retired several years ago. I was looking for information on ponte knits and ran across your blog. I was inspired! I learned about TNTs and how to creatively transform them into something unique and special. Yours was the first sewing blog I put in my Favorites. My question: Do you have a preference for one or several different methods of pattern alteration?
ReplyDeleteAlana - I probably use whatever pattern alteration that works at any given time. I've learned them from books, blogs and even a few videos online.
Delete
ReplyDeleteThanks for this opportunity to ask you questions. We know you like to cut out several garments at a time. When you sew your cut pile, do you sew one garment at a time? or the garments that use the same thread color? I have sewn 2 at once of a TNT shirt, using 2 machines. I don't do this all the time. It does save on time at the iron, and I've only done this with a pattern I'm very familiar with.
Hi Carol! While I assemble a deep cut pile, I only sew one garment at a time. And I don't sew them in order. I sew what moves me from the pile. Occasionally, I sew something that's not in the cut pile too! My cut pile gives me direction and allows me to sew without having to do all of the processes in one sewing session but I'm not bound to it. Though I do try to sew everything in the pile within the season. Sometimes things do carry over.
DeleteI'm going to echo the other comments that I have been a long time fan of the blog! It was definitely one of my first sewing inspirations and I have really enjoyed seeing everything you've made over the years, and I'm really enjoying and appreciating the helpful questions and replies on this post.
ReplyDeleteMy question: Is there any type of garment/fabric/technique that you would like to learn or use that you haven't yet tried, and if so, what would you like to make with it?
Doctor T - it would probably be relearn a technique...and that would be welt pockets. I haven't made one in so long that I definitely need to make some samples to use it again. As for garments or fabrics, I've been sewing so long that I've made pretty much everything and used most fabrics so no to anything new there.
DeleteHere's my curiosity question to you, dear Caroline. We all know and admire your amazing resources of fabric. What percent was purchased online and what percent did you buy in a fabric store? Do you miss working near the Garment district or are you close to working there now? I can imagine spending every pay check there if I did! Have you had disappointments buying online and how do you handle them?
ReplyDeleteBunny - my fabric collection is 80% purchased online and 20% bought instore at this point. Buying online is too easy so it's my primary method of fabric shopping.
DeleteI'm still working in the garment district and no I don't go nearly as much as I did pre-pandemic. Now I work a hybrid schedule and am no longer in NYC 5 days a week. So when I'm in the office, I'm trying to get as much accomplished as I can rarely heading out to the garment district. BTW, many times, I just wandered the stores in the garment district not always buying. I liked to window shop so if I needed something I would know where to get it. Also, window shopping for fabric calmed me after a stressful day.
I had more disappointments in the beginning of buying online. Not so many lately but I still do get one. I put it in my donation bag which earns me a tax writeoff at the end of the year.
Hope I got them all and hope all is well with you and yours!
Hi Carolyn,
ReplyDeleteI don't have a question but just wanted to say I'm really enjoying reading the questions from other readers and your subsequent answers.
I only found your blog about a year ago but can honestly say I'm constantly learning from you! Many thanks!
I mean, I don't know why I didn't know this. Clearly, I've seen pattern paper on fabric before! And honestly, for a skirt, I cut the paper, but for this one, I would have traced to alter. Because what if I wanted to make the knee length skirt next? I don't want to reprint. What about when I change sizes? I mean, I know you trace sometimes, but . . . g
ReplyDeleteI have been following your blog for a long time. Because of you if I do sew garments I don't trace, but on occasion I do a muslin. I retired early due to health reasons. I wasnt sewing garments. but lately, you have inspired me to go back to it, there is casual wear to be made, bored with quilting.
ReplyDeleteCarolyn, I have been reading your blog for years, and enjoy it very much. As someone who has been away from sewing for quite a while, but wanting to get back into things, I really appreciate all I have learned from you. I do have a question for you: Do you pre-wash your fabric? And if so, how do you handle the longer lengths of yardage so they don't become a tangled mess? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteAmy M - sorry I just saw this! Yes, I do pretreat. Washing for the pieces like cotton, linen, knits and steaming for the wools. Anything that's 6 yards or less I just place carefully in the washer. I find I have a more difficult time with getting them out of the dryer because they're pretty twisted. But other than that I have no special tips.
Delete