Burda Style Skirt 12-2009-112

Well I have one more black skirt...or the Burda Style skirt is done!

One of the reasons that it took so long to finish this skirt is because I knew I would never be happy with the button closure on the waistband.  I loved the front drape but was totally turned off by the button closures.  I think this works great in the skinnier sizes as evidenced by the great skirts that Sharon, Elizabeth and Karen made.  However, as a plus size chick those buttons just weren't working for me.

So yet again, I changed the pattern...although this does fit with my sewing motto...that a pattern is just a jumping off point.  In my opinion, the change that I made to the skirt was minor...it just made it easier to wear.  But I'm sure that from a design standpoint, it's major...since the button front along with the drape are "the hook" that elevates this skirt from a regular old pencil skirt.  Whatever...

So some stats:

Fabric:
Skirt shell is from 100% worsted wool crepe that was purchased from Fabric Mart
Lining is from a silk charmeuse print also from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" invisible black zipper
2 - 5/8" black buttons from the collection
black rayon hem tape

The pattern alterations were extensive and are detailed in this post.  And after much discussion in the comments section, I am glad that I went with my TNT skirt pattern especially since this pattern stops at a size 46.  I don't believe that I would have gotten as great a fit particularly in the back of the skirt, if I hadn't used my TNT skirt pieces. 

One final thing, I did do a hard press in my drape/pleat.  I wanted the definition and for the pleat to stand out.  The directions don't tell you to do this but I would recommend it.  The soft drape is kinda wimpy to me...pressing it makes it command attention.

If I make this skirt again, I would do a few things differently:

1.  I would put the invisible zipper in the back.  It would just flow better.  The zipper in the side isn't bad but in my opinion it would just work better in the back.

2.  I've used 3/8" seam allowances in this version probably because I forgot to add a seam allowance to the front pattern piece on the drape side.  I'm old fashion, I like 5/8" seam allowances.  I sew them naturally because they are now ingrained into my sewing psyche.

3.  I would lengthen the pattern another inch or two.  I have a 1/2" hem in this skirt and would like a deeper hem...again just my personal preference.

4.  I would not add a back vent when placing the invisible zipper in a center back seam because there is plenty of room to walk in the skirt.  The pleated front piece gives you enough space so that walking is easy in the skirt.

Some pictures:

the invisible zipper and button closure

a sideview of the skirt showcasing the pleat/drape

a full view where you can see the pleat

I have some eggplant wool crepe pulled out to make this skirt again, but first I want to make one more dress before the year ends.  If I can get one more finished before December 31st, I will have made 20 dresses this year...and even though it's not a major distinction, I would like to accomplish this minor goal.

Christmas is Friday and my family celebrates on Christmas Eve so I probably won't be posting again until after Christmas Day! 

I am wishing all of you a very Merry Christmas ~ full of love, joy family, and good food.  If you are traveling anywhere I hope that you are blessed with traveling mercies and that you don't end up spending hours upon hours in your local airport!  I also hope that you receive as much as you've given!  Great sewing presents for all!!!

...and as always...more later!