After seeing the skirt in the December Burda Style, I had to have it and I wasn't going to be deterred by the fact that it was only graded up to a size 46...especially since I'm probably more like a size 50 in Burda. I mean I have a TNT skirt pattern and some tracing pattern, why couldn't I make this skirt?I've spent several days thinking about how I would alter the pattern to fit me...what changes I needed to make to both my TNT pattern and the Burda skirt piece. I even got Marji involved when I told her that I couldn't come up with a lining alternative...her suggestions follow in the next post.
But before pattern alterations, there is pattern tracing...and now I remember why I don't use my Burdas more often. I know you everyday Burda users think nuthin' about tracing off patterns...but this was a semi-challenge to a chick wearing new progressive lenses (bifocals) and having problems seeing anything up close! All of those intersecting lines in several different colors made my head hurt but I pressed on because I really want this skirt!
So out comes the black sharpie and following some advice to outline the pattern piece with said sharpie, I trace the main skirt pattern and all of its markings only.
Why did I do this? Because I am going to use the back skirt piece of my TNT pattern. I mean that piece fits, I know it fits, I've made it several times...okay more than that but you know what I mean! So why re-invent the wheel? After the piece was traced out the real fun began because I have to turn the original skirt piece into a workable pattern piece for me.
Who knew a size 46 was so d*mn small! When I first looked at that piece I was wondering if I would be able to make it fit me!!! But I really want this skirt so I moved on! Since I didn't want to alter my TNT skirt pattern, I drew another one onto pattern paper:
Then I sliced the traced Burda skirt pattern into two pieces...cutting it apart at the center front line. The piece that was the normal skirt side was matched to my original skirt piece...and taped down. With a slice of pattern paper, I added an insert between the two pieces. The insert measured 10.5" at the top tapering out to 12" at the skirt bottom. And more taping ensued so that I would have a workable pattern piece that wouldn't fall apart with a little handling. I also lengthened the skirt pattern (that's why the lines are about 6" higher on the original Burda skirt pieces), ummm that thing was sooooo short, I would scare grown men and little children! I also straightened out the side seam on the right...figuring I need as much fabric to cross my body as possible!
Finally with my daughter's help, I tissue fit the pattern to the front of me checking to see if I needed to add more to the front of the skirt pattern...but it was okay. It fit! Even with the piece pulled over to form the drape - it fit! Insert Snoopy dance here because I really want to make this skirt! *LOL*
And that's where I left the skirt. Today I will wade into my fabric closet because in the midst of my daughter pulling down the Christmas ornaments Friday evening, she pulled down the entire top shelf of fabric. I need to find the black wool crepe that I want to use for the skirt...hopefully later today I will have pics of the finished skirt to share...
I hope so, 'cause I really want to make and wear this skirt!!! *LOL*
...as always, more later!
Great skirt. Glad to see you finally tackling one of your collection of Burda magazines! I don't know why you don't try some of the plus sized patterns. They are so well drafted and stylish.
ReplyDeleteLooks like it's going to work.
ReplyDeleteOK, I'm putting it out here in the public domain - line it! don't rely on a slip and not line this baby. Why not, before construction, use that underlining/lining technique that creates a hong kong seam finish and lined pieces that then just get sewn together? Then you can stitch it as we discussed to keep the lining in place. Oh, and I was thinking about it - the lining with the least bulk in the world is silk habotai(china silk).
I remember looking at the black wool crepe - down on the bottom of the pile on the right side of the closet as you stand facing it. If it's buried under the mound of the top shelf, it's really buried since it was already at the bottom of the pile. ;)
Have fun - hope you can see well enough to work on this today.
oh yeah, I meant to say too, I traced a Burda dress last night and added 4" to the hem length.
ReplyDeleteOh, I'm glad to see this skirt getting made! I caught my eye, too. I can't wait to see yours!
ReplyDeleteThank you for showing the readers ( especially beginners), how you used the TNT skirt pattern to adjust the burda pattern. This is another example of the importance of TNT patterns. I am looking forward to see the end product.
ReplyDeleteI loved this pattern and I hope you get a beautiful result. Kudo's for working outside your box. I always take time to outline my BWOF size line in a Sharpie. I'm anal enough that I have to use the color of that pattern (green for green, red for red, etc. I tried using black once and almost had a meltdown).
ReplyDeleteAs for the lining, my "go-to" for difficult to line skirts is a SLIGHT A-line (or straight if necessary) with the 2 sides left open about half way up. Gives it walking room with no lines or bulk. I saw this on an Ann Taylor pleated skirt once and never forgot it.
I am following this with great interest--thanks for posting about this skirt (I love it too!).
ReplyDeleteWay to go, Carolyn!
ReplyDeleteI'm waiting for the result! And I like the underlining idea. I'm thinking it will keep integrity to the drape and serve the slip purpose.
I feel like I just dropped in to a great kitchen party!
(I can relate to the earlier anal comment of outlining green with green, red with red, etc!)
Brenda
Oh I need to move to your coast. I so want to just come, sit and absorb your knowledge. Have you kick away the fear.
ReplyDeleteStepped outside my box yesterday and ended up with a skirt that's not necessarily wearable! Waste of a day. g
I'm so glad that you are making this skirt. It's on my evergrowing list of projects. Many thanks to you so now I know how to alter the pattern.Looking forward to seeing your final garment.
ReplyDeleteOh girl I feel your pain with grading up on Burda patterns. I am so glad that you "MADE IT WORK". I am so looking forwarding to your finished project.
ReplyDeleteYou're making things much more difficult for yourself than you need to. First, measure yourself, that -is- your Burda size, no second-guessing needed of the sort always necessary in US big-4 patterns.
ReplyDeleteSecond just look at the thing, it's got sizes, just go out that much for each size more than you need, keeping to the size distribution for each seam, that's it. I mean if they go 1/4" or 1" up between sizes in one spot, do exactly that right then. I'm a 52 and never have any trouble going up from a 44 (or even 42), and I've done it for 60 friends with success right out of the envelope.
Trying to graft your other skirt on isn't going to do it necessarily, the fit will be different enough between front and back that it won't just go on perfect, you risk getting something weird. You like to do things elaborate in construction, that's fine, but in this case going the complicated way isn't giving you any value added anything. You may not like the style on yourself in the end, but if you do a straighforward grading at least you'll have something that fits, and that looks as intended.
Kudos to you regrading this pattern to fit! I am watching this with great interest. There are often many designs that I want to regrade (in the other direction) but am too pansy-footed to do it!
ReplyDeleteWow, Carolyn, this is amazing. You make me feel like it's easy to do anything! I'm really keen to see the end result.
ReplyDeleteI am following this with great interest, thanks for sharing this!
ReplyDeleteI planed to make a Burda skirt (137 from october 2009), I didn't make it yet: it's a plus-size and I am a very tiny one (yes, I know, I have so much choise, but this plus-size skirt caught my eyes so much... you know what I mean ;-)
I will stay tuned and check to se how you manage with this fit problem and I am waiting for the result (I am sure it will be great!).
I like to read your blog, but don't usually leave comment (due to my bad english), but this topic...
Happy sewing carolyn, and thanks to share!
You're making the skirt! Yea! I don't think I would have been able to figure out how to change the size of the pattern, but you certainly seem to know what you're doing.
ReplyDeleteI just finished my version in a black pinstripe - it goes together very quickly - but gosh I wish I would have thought about underlining as suggested by Marji. I got stuck on how to line the darn thing and ended up eliminating that altogether. Oh well, next time.
I always have a smile on my face when I read your posts--informative and funny!! I love this skirt pattern. I made a straight burda skirt and was shocked how short it was too!!
ReplyDeleteWhat a great idea to use your TNT with the Burda pattern. Oh you do inspire me Carolyn!
ReplyDeleteOh, this is wonderful. I can't wait for more.
ReplyDeleteeasy method to trace out a Burda pattern:
ReplyDeleteLay newspaper under the pattern sheet. Financial Times is good because it is very thin. Place both of these on a tracing wheel friendly surface. Use a tracing wheel to trace out the pattern. The tracing wheel will make marks into the newspaper which you can use for adding seam allowance and markings with marker directly on the newspaper.
I leaned this method from a French seamstress while I lived in Europe.
Can't wait to see the skirt on you!
ReplyDeletei think you are part engineer! I can't wait to see the skirt!
ReplyDeleteI admire your determination.
ReplyDeleteThis is going to look great on you!
ReplyDeleteI love this pattern! If I wore skirts to work I'd seriously make this baby. Eager to see you model it. And yeah, BurdaStyle patterns are very hard on older eyes.
ReplyDeleteThis was timely as I'm just about to tackle my first Burda pattern. I have a light table, which will hopefully make things easier, but those overlaid pattern pieces are still pretty daunting.
ReplyDeleteGood luck!
Like you, I had to grade "up" in size. I just followed their sizing, and added to the side seams. One thing I'm curious about is the length. I added about an inch, only because if I went any longer, I wondered about walking ease, and since there is no vent or pleat...I'll be interested to see how yours turns out. Maybe you're version won't be as pegged as the original, leaving a little more room to move.
ReplyDeleteVery smart - you're right no reason to trace, grade and check a piece when you know you have one that fits. Again, I think you're getting a lot of mileage out of that set of patterns you know fits you.
ReplyDeleteI love the Burda skirt - and I like your grading method- Ingenious!
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing your sewing experience with this skirt, as I think I may make this skirt at some point.
ReplyDeleteRose in SV
I've got to agree with those who've said you're best off to use your TNT pattern as your fitting guide, incorporating the fit of the pattern you use to the style of the Burda that you want to make. it only makes sense. Are you going to make a down 'n dirty muslin to check the fit and the depth of the pleat before cutting into your crepe? (she says with an agenda...)
ReplyDeleteI also look forward to seeing your skirt, and I'm not a skirt/dress wear-er. I've just recently started subscribing to Burda, but haven't yet made the plunge of making anything yet. It's always fascinating on how people start with the same plan or pattern, and watch the different routes they take to get it made, and the different results.
ReplyDeletehi , love the blog and just wanted to say so,and to say when tracing burda patterns i use clear gift paper on the roll and a marker. for me this makes it so much easier to trace those different color lines and allows me to make other patterns off the sheet.you could also trace the lines on the burda pattern paper but in different color markers.
ReplyDelete