A Vogue Five Pak

I know the posts were light last week but that's because working on the jacket took longer than I expected. However, the jacket spawned a few additional pieces, most of which have already been discussed on the blog. So my apologies but this post is a little heavy on the pictures.

The Pantsuit ~
This is comprised of the Vogue 9095 jacket (pattern alterations post here & construction post here) and the pants from this outfit. The pants were loose on me when I was heavier so you know they're swimming on me now. I removed 2" from each outer leg and 1" from each inner leg to slim them down. In total honesty, I'm wearing them with the waistband turned down once. I still need to refit my pants pattern but for now this will work.

Also even though the jacket works with the pants, and this is how I will wear it, I'm not really thrilled with the jacket. The lapels are thinner than I thought they would be. I'm also not that happy with the bands at the jacket hemline & sleeves. Finally my sleeve insertion sucks...but after taking them out twice...I decided this was good enough. I won't be making this jacket again. I'm on to the next jacket pattern adventure.

The top is Vogue 8209 blogged about here.

Black Jacket & The Brocade Pieces ~
The Vogue 7632 skirt + the Vogue top 8209 + the Vogue jacket = a dressy suit.  I think of this more as a church outfit rather than a work outfit.

...and the top and skirt without the jacket...

...the original white ponte top...

Finally, I've decided to add a "casual look" to my blog posts since last year there were quite a few comments asking what I wear during my downtime. I mix and match my work pieces with jeans, maxi skirts and maxi dresses. Here's how I would wear the jacket and top with a pair of bell bottom jeans...

Next...
I'm reworking my TNT dress pattern because I want to work on a dress with a more fitted bodice after that...and you know how much I love my TNTs. I hate that my pattern isn't working for me now. So I've got to get that straightened out especially since spring and summer will eventually show up...

...as always more later!

The New Exhibits at FIT

Miss Cellie's Pants blog post about the new exhibits at FIT reminded me that I had not seen them yet. So a friend and I went down to see the new exhibit together.

There are presently three exhibits at the FIT Museum:

• Lauren Bacall - The Look
• Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s
• Faking It: Originals Copies and Counterfeits

The Lauren Bacall and Faking It exhibits were upstairs. The Bacall exhibit was too short and because of that I only took two pictures of the exhibit:

This was fascinating because the coat was lined with the 

same fabric used for the dress!

Lauren Bacall's every day dresses. I would wear all of those now!

The exhibit that I really liked was the YSL + Halston one. A few pictures:

Menswear type suits for women

Gold lame evening suit

Sweater jacket and dress

Gingham shirtwaist dress

To me the most memorable thing from the day was the conversation we had during and after the exhibit. My friend didn't realize that Halston had started as a milliner. Or that he had designed the pillbox hat that Jackie Kennedy wore to the Inauguration. Or that he had won five Coty Awards. The awards that were the precursor to the CFDA awards.

Its truly sad that by selling his name to JC Penney, he ended up losing his name and reputation. That all he's remembered for is cheap perfume and clothing that was licensed under his name. For more information on Halston - click this link.

Or check out this youtube video from Madoff Productions~

The Yves Saint Laurent + Halston exhibit lasts until April 18th - not too much longer - so if you're going to be in NYC before then I highly recommend that you see it. The clothing is amazing and the timeline that tells the history of YSL and Halston is really enlightening!

...as always more later!

A Couple of Tops - Vogue 8209

I've used this out of print pattern before but for the jacket.  This time though I was looking for a princess seamed tank top to wear with the Vogue black jacket and the accompanying pieces.

Version One:
Choosing a white ponte from the collection to make the wearable muslin resulted in this...which is nuthin' like the pattern envelope. I started out on the right track...making pattern alterations to the pattern pieces...

- added an inch to the lengthen/shorten lines
- split and spread from the hemline to add an inch at the hemline
- did a pivot and slide on the center front piece adding another inch at the hemline.
- used an invisible zipper instead of the separating zipper the pattern recommends
- added an inch to the center back so that I didn't lose the darts in the back

Then when I tried the top on after basting the sides and the shoulders together...I ended up with a top that fit at the hemline, slid off my shoulders, gaped a lot at the back neckline and the neckline princess seams needed to be sewn a little closer to my body.

Now when I started this journey, I fully expected to make some changes to the pattern. Since I'm now making closer fitting garments it means that I spend a lot of quality time in front of the mirror assessing where to tighten up and where to add space to give me THAT closer fitting garment. (Do you know that I cringe every time I type that?! *LOL*)

Anyways, I took some in...added darts to the back neckline...and then when I determined that I didn't like how the cap sleeves fell down my arms, I did a tuck in the mirror to determine how to make the change. I decided I kinda liked the tucks so I pinned them and sewed them down.

From there the changes took on a life of their own and I ended up with this kinda funky top which was sooooo fun and fast to make! A great wearable muslin...

These are my regular glasses they've just changed to sunglasses

because we were taking some pics outside too. 

Version Two:
Now this version looks more like the pattern envelope because I incorporated all of the pattern alterations from the first one. Although after constructing it, I did have to go in and make a few more changes. Primarily because the brocade is a woven and the original is a ponte.

This is super tight on Lulu! It's really shown me how much weight I've lost because Lulu needs to be restuffed or I need to just break down and purchase another dressform...

The changes I made for this top ~
- sewed all of the seams 1/2" instead of 5/8" wide from the waist down
- sewed the neckline seams at 3/4" instead of 5/8" wide to the bustline curve
- added darts to the back neckline - even after the alterations I made to the pattern
- removed the flare at the front - I didn't really like the peplumy look of the white one
- I finished the neckline with black bias binding but I turned down and stitched the armholes and hemline down

I really wanted a tank from the red & black brocade fabric to match the skirt that's how this second version came to be. Here it is with the matching skirt.

I like this top. With a few more alterations it will be an even better fitting top. I've made the changes to the pattern pieces and stuffed them back into the folder. Don't be surprised if you see another top or two showing up before the summer is over!

Lastly, these pictures of me were taken by my daughter.  Josh is just 3 weeks old but she came over, did my hair, styled me and took pictures just to get a day out of her apartment.  Thank goodness for OnDemand. She watched movies while the baby slept and I finished up some sewing. Best daughter EVAH!

...as always more later!

The Garment District: A New To Me Trim Store

Yesterday evening I was rushing to meet a friend for dinner.  I'd been at Macy's to snoop shop, got caught up and was late leaving.  I was walking to the subway and diverted down a side street, coming to a dead stop in front of East Coast Trimming.

As I pushed open the door, I thought that I had a few minutes to peruse the stock then come back another day to fully investigate.  However, when I walked into the store, the displays and the charm of the store made me linger.

The buttons and snap area

Bridal laces and trims at the rear of the store

Vintage trims and yardage

The embroidered ribbons

I approached a sales girl and asked if I could take some pictures.  She kindly said yes and as I wandered around the store...more infatuated with each step I took...Donna, the store manager, came up to speak to me. 

One of the things that entranced me about the store was that I felt that I knew or had seen the trimmings before. Come to find out I had.  Donna explained that a lot of the vintage trim was the stock from the old Hyman Hendlers store. This store use to be located at 38th and Avenue of the Americas and was a treasure trove of vintage ribbons and trims.

Vintage silk trims including silk piano fringe

Kewl neon funkiness!

Donna further explained the history of this new store, how she purchases trims and the restoration process of some of the vintage trims. The pieces contained in the store are just awesome.

Now this is the place where you go to get that special trim for a wedding or prom gown...or if you're looking for something amazing to complete an outfit. It's not a Pacific or Daytona where you're buying basics...this is the place to get the trimming/embellishment that takes your garment to another level.

So the next time you're in the Garment District, please stop by and visit Donna and her very helpful and welcoming staff. 

The East Coast Trimming Corp is located at:
142 West 38th Street
New York, NY  10018
Phone:  212.221.0050 or 212.221.0052

Hours of Operation:
Monday - Friday: 10:00am to 6:30pm
Saturday: 12:00 to 6:30pm
Sunday: Closed

Or online at:  eastcoasttrimming.com

The online store is not up and running yet. However, there are some great shots of the store's interior and the about us section is really interesting.

I was now 20 minutes late for my dinner reservation but everything was so fascinating about the store...or maybe I'm just an embellishment junkie! *LOL* So as we were looking at one of the vintage ribbon cabinets, Donna asked me which one I'd like and how I would use it.  My first response was to suggest a skirt with the trim added to the hemline.  A very basic and easy to make skirt...then she pulled the ribbon out and cut me 2 yards!

Not only was I soooooo appreciative but you know I thought about that ribbon all the way home and have come up with a totally different use for it. So my to-sew list has been revised yet again to include a garment featuring this amazing piece of silk ribbon. 

Oh one last thing...I did a post on a garment I made pre-blogging days...using ribbons for the jacket front. You can read about it here. See ribbon and trimmings have been a part of me forever!

Now that I've fully disclosed my connection to the store...please go by and check them out!  I guarantee you won't be disappointed!


...as always more later!

Vogue 9095 - Construction Details

The thing about making a jacket is that it takes time. Normally when I get the shell of a garment finished, I know that I will be done soon.  Ummmmm, not so much with a jacket.  There are still a million and one steps to do to finish the jacket...okay I'm exaggerating but if you've made one you know what I mean.

Here's the jacket so far on Lulu - almost done!

Basically my pattern alterations to the jacket shell worked...I ended up sewing the seams 1/2" instead of 5/8" from the waist down on the jacket front seams. Otherwise, I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the shell went together and how well it fit.

The bands were next. Since I didn't alter the pattern pieces for the bands until after the jacket was assembled this took some fiddling to get them to work. I wanted the seams for both the jacket & band to match. To achieve this I took the pattern pieces and laid them on top of the jacket to see where I needed to make alterations to the band pattern pieces.

My front band ended up with a curve since it mimic'ed the curve of the jacket front.

My lining was cut from rayon bemberg lining that I bought from Elegance Fabrics in NYC. The lining had a little more body to it than the bembergs I've bought in the past. This was great because my jacket body is a little drapey so this lining should give the jacket a little substance.

The sleeves were constructed out of order. Probably because I was concerned about them sliding over my bodacious biceps!  This was the only challenge I experienced because I overcompensated the width needed. See even my biceps have changed with the weight loss.  All of the extra that I added had to be removed because the sleeves didn't hang correctly.

So here is a picture of the sleeve pattern pieces with the added space...

Now as an experienced sewist I know that adding to the sides of a garment affect the hang of the garment.  That's what the problem was with the way I added to the sleeve pattern pieces and once I removed the extra, I no longer had an issue.

I can honestly say that the most challenging part of constructing the jacket was adding the sleeves...because I still had to cut lining fabric and set in four sleeves.

Some other thoughts...

• Can I say this is one time where saving the scrap pieces of fabric from a previous project worked to my advantage. I had some very large scrap pieces that I used to cut the bands and the collar for the jacket from. Just one tip, make sure that you are cutting the pieces on grain. My scraps still had the selvedges attached so determining grain was easy.
• I will use this jacket pattern again both without the shawl collar. I think it will work well with both skirts and dresses, as well as, thrown over a pair of jeans or leggings.
• I don't like constructing jackets. They take a really long time and challenge me in ways that I don't enjoy. So I'm gonna try and make a few more this year. This is something I need to get better at so I'm going to use some of those patterns from my pattern collection.
• This jacket is very basic. I've removed the welt pockets and sleeve bands for this version so that it will go with just about anything in my wardrobe. Also the fit is okay...not perfect. I think it's good through the body but the shoulders and sleeves still need some adjusting...not a lot but some.

Pictures of the jacket with the altered pants - the legs are just too wide now - and with the brocade skirt will be up next. 

...as always more later!

Vogue 9095 - The Jacket Pattern Alterations

This is a recently released pattern and though it's similar to the iconic Vogue 7975, I really like the shawl collar option that's View C. Ages ago, pre-blogging days, I made a navy blue pinstripe jacket and dress combo using a shawl collared jacket that I really liked wearing. This view of the pattern brings back those pleasant memories.

Vogue 9095 - View C - Shawl collar version

Front & back line drawings

I started out making two versions of this jacket from the remaining black fabric from this outfit:

Now I know you're wondering why two versions ~ well it's because I got this idea in my head that I can't shake. I want the shawl collar and bands to match the brocade skirt I just completed. While this will be an awesome suit (and probably my Easter outfit this year), it's not really a standard black suit. So I'm making the jacket twice ~ once fancy and once standard ~ especially since I already have the black pants in that fabric which will make a great pantsuit.

However, after laying the fabric out, I will only be able to make one jacket. So I'm going with the plainer version of the jacket because it's the more practical wardrobe choice.  I think I'll have enough leftover to make a simple elastic waist skirt which will give me several mix and match opportunities.

Next pattern alterations...

This pattern has a lot of pieces to it which means a lot of fitting opportunities. After tissue fitting the main pieces and the band to my body, I decided to add an inch in length because I didn't like where the hem of the jacket was hitting my body. 

• So one inch was added at the lengthen/shorten line.
• The hip measurement didn't fit my body so 1/2 inch was added to each front pattern piece by cutting and spreading.  
• I only added to the front piece because that's where I still carry most of my weight.
• The bands will need to be adjusted but I'm waiting for the jacket fronts and backs to be stitched to make the alterations to the bands.
• I added a center back seam to the jacket even though the pattern has a solid back piece.
• I added 1/2 inch curves at the sides of the sleeve pieces to accommodate my still bodacious biceps.

I think that's everything. I did a lot of flat measuring and tissue fitting and now I'm moving onto cutting out the fabric...well more like procrastinating but after such a busy week it's taking me a minute to get back into the groove.

There will probably be a construction post for this jacket before the reveal. There is still soooooo much left to do for this jacket ~ the lining and the pattern alterations to the bands.  I just don't want to cut the lining or the bands until I'm sure that the jacket shell will fit.

That's where I am right now.  Will probably spend all day today in the sewing cave. I'm hoping to get this closer to the finish line sooner rather than later!

Oh and can I share my new obsession with you?  Well I'm gonna anyway! *LOL*  

I'm totally obsessed with the show, Empire.  So much so that I purchased the soundtrack from iTunes and have been blasting it while I've been in the sewing cave today! So you know where I'll be Wednesday evening - glued to my television watching the season finale!

...as always more later!

A New Member of the Family

All sewing has ceased at Casa de Diary of a Sewing Fanatic because my daughter has delivered her last baby...

Joshua Mason 

was born on Saturday, March 7th 

at 12:39am 

weighing in at 7 lbs. 3 oz and 19" long

He is my daughter's fourth child and she is now the proud mother of 2 boys and 2 girls.  So I spent my weekend watching his siblings while his mother and father were at the hospital with Joshua. I had Monday off but was too exhausted and needed to run some errands to even think about sewing. 

One of my errands was to pick up my new glasses...

My new distance glasses

Jackie O type sunnies

Today I was back with them.

So there will be no more sewing here until the weekend...and my apologies if you've already seen these pictures on Instagram!

One more thing...keeping a 6 yr old, a 3 yr old and a 13 month occupied takes a lot of energy. But they loved this video and I had it on repeat for 30 minutes so I'm kinda taken with it now...