Sunday, March 15, 2015

Vogue 9095 - The Jacket Pattern Alterations

This is a recently released pattern and though it's similar to the iconic Vogue 7975, I really like the shawl collar option that's View C. Ages ago, pre-blogging days, I made a navy blue pinstripe jacket and dress combo using a shawl collared jacket that I really liked wearing. This view of the pattern brings back those pleasant memories.
Vogue 9095 - View C - Shawl collar version

Front & back line drawings

I started out making two versions of this jacket from the remaining black fabric from this outfit:

Now I know you're wondering why two versions ~ well it's because I got this idea in my head that I can't shake. I want the shawl collar and bands to match the brocade skirt I just completed. While this will be an awesome suit (and probably my Easter outfit this year), it's not really a standard black suit. So I'm making the jacket twice ~ once fancy and once standard ~ especially since I already have the black pants in that fabric which will make a great pantsuit.

However, after laying the fabric out, I will only be able to make one jacket. So I'm going with the plainer version of the jacket because it's the more practical wardrobe choice.  I think I'll have enough leftover to make a simple elastic waist skirt which will give me several mix and match opportunities.

Next pattern alterations...

This pattern has a lot of pieces to it which means a lot of fitting opportunities. After tissue fitting the main pieces and the band to my body, I decided to add an inch in length because I didn't like where the hem of the jacket was hitting my body. 

  • So one inch was added at the lengthen/shorten line.
  • The hip measurement didn't fit my body so 1/2 inch was added to each front pattern piece by cutting and spreading.  
  • I only added to the front piece because that's where I still carry most of my weight.
  • The bands will need to be adjusted but I'm waiting for the jacket fronts and backs to be stitched to make the alterations to the bands.
  • I added a center back seam to the jacket even though the pattern has a solid back piece.
  • I added 1/2 inch curves at the sides of the sleeve pieces to accommodate my still bodacious biceps.

I think that's everything. I did a lot of flat measuring and tissue fitting and now I'm moving onto cutting out the fabric...well more like procrastinating but after such a busy week it's taking me a minute to get back into the groove.

There will probably be a construction post for this jacket before the reveal. There is still soooooo much left to do for this jacket ~ the lining and the pattern alterations to the bands.  I just don't want to cut the lining or the bands until I'm sure that the jacket shell will fit.

That's where I am right now.  Will probably spend all day today in the sewing cave. I'm hoping to get this closer to the finish line sooner rather than later!

Oh and can I share my new obsession with you?  Well I'm gonna anyway! *LOL*  

I'm totally obsessed with the show, Empire.  So much so that I purchased the soundtrack from iTunes and have been blasting it while I've been in the sewing cave today! So you know where I'll be Wednesday evening - glued to my television watching the season finale! always more later!


  1. Darn it. Too bad you couldn't get two.

    When you say you added curve to the sleeve, how so??

    Jussie is so adorably cute :)

    1. N - I think I took a picture will add it to a future post!

  2. This is a great pattern. And will make an awesome suit. I love the idea of having the labels match the brocade skirt. But you haven't cut into the new black or that great navy yet? g

    1. This is the first weekend I've had an opportunity to sew - that new baby has totally taken over my life! *LOL* I had to make sure that my Sammy was okay with the new interloper so I spent a lot of time at my daughter's apt this week!

  3. Sounds like you've really got lot's of design inspiration floating around in your sewing room. Have fun with this project!

  4. Love Empire and the music too. I like the jacket with the shawl collar. It's a change from the typical Chanel-ish type jacket. I'm surprised though that Vogue omitted back princess seams. Would have added more shaping. Can't wait to see your progress.

    1. Robin - the jacket does have back side seams, just the center back is one large piece. I think the jacket will fit better on me with a center back seam. One of many choices you have to make when constructing a garment just for you.

  5. Empire is such a great show. I can see the soundtrack being great music to sew to. I agree with you on adding the center back seam. I find that gives me more ability to fit the back properly on most garments, and on a jacket it is a must.

  6. Oh, I'm excited to see this style jacket with a shawl collar!

  7. I bought this pattern too a couple of weeks ago. While looking at the new dresses and shirts I've made for spring I realized that a snow white sweater is in my closets future. I bought the fabric but got side tracked with finishing a king sized quilt. I should be able to turn it over to the long arm winter gal very soon, then on to the sweater. So glad to get the chance to learn from your posts! I follow many sewing blogs but yours is one of my top 5 keep-on-top of blogs!

  8. I really like shawl collar jackets. How great to have so many pieces to mix and match when you are all finished. By the way, congratulations on your new grand baby. What a doll!

  9. Do you have the phrase 'sitting with Nellie'? Well I'm changing it to "sitting with Carolyn"! Seeing how you added the width to your pattern pieces, was a lightbulb moment for me. I have always added at the edges, with lots of drawing and rulers..... Slashing and spreading the pieces is so much simpler, gives symmetry and keeps the cutting lines accurate.
    I'm one of those people who need to 'see' what is being done. Reading about how to alter, does not always give me the best understanding. I'm a visual learner.
    Thank you.

  10. Nice looking jacket with that shawl collar, when you get a pattern to fit just how want it, do you tend to keep using it over and over? I know I do after putting in the prep work.

  11. Yes. I use quite a few patterns over and over and plan to use this one again since I made it very basically this time.


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