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Monday, December 23, 2019

Sienna Maker Jacket/Vest

A Little Backstory First ~
I really liked this jacket pattern when it debuted. I was thrilled to see it in expanded sizes but not so thrilled that the expanded sizes were available in PDF Patterns only. Cause y'all know I just can NOT deal with PDF Patterns. So I pouted and whined about it to a friend. A very kind and generous friend who gifted me the pdf pattern printed from PDF Plotting.  Did I mention she's a very kind and generous friend!


Now, I really don't need the expanded sizing because my measurements fit into a size 20 with a minimal amount of alterations for my hips. But it was really nice to have all the sizes AND the bust dart because I love me some bust darts!

My version...


Inspiration ~
As I stated I really like the jacket, however, when Heather posted a couple of vests made from the pattern, my creative nerve endings stood to attention! 

from Closet Case Patterns IG account


This look is what I need in my life! Seriously this worn over a shirt or a cashmere turtleneck will be perfect this winter! Then I found this Jason Wu dress on Net-A-Porter and knew that I needed to sew this up right away.


Well right away took a minute because at the same time my Sewjo decided that it needed a vacation...so it took some time to get this made and into my closet.

The Pattern and Instructions ~
Y'all I love, love, love the pattern instructions. They are full of helpful information in an easy to read format.  I especially loved the full page of finished garment measurements that give you measurements for everything. This was so helpful when picking which size to trace and cut out.

Using those measurements, I went with size 20 shoulders, size 22 bust/waist and size 24 hips. I chose these sizes because I wanted a loosely fitted vest that would let me put a blouse or a lightweight sweater under it.

...a few fit pictures...
Back view - first fitting

Side view - first fitting
(Yes I look a hot mess sewing. Don't you?!)

What I didn't like - was the collar instructions. They are a little difficult to follow. So I went my own way and that's what's different between my collar and the ones in the inspiration pictures.  See comments below in the construction section and my neglect in continuing to read those wonderful pattern instructions!!!

Also, I know Heather said the Sienna is a chic utility jacket inspired by vintage French workwear. However, I never saw anything utilitarian about this pattern so I kinda went for it to make it more upscale...more like me.

Materials Used ~
I bought a border print denim from Chic Fabrics in late September that I thought would make an amazing vest. After prewashing it, it was really stretchy with all of the finishing removed...like 10-12% spandex added. Not what I wanted for this vest.  So I had to ponder where to go next.

I found a black & white reversible rayon/poly print amongst the fabric piles and I went with that.  Why?  Because the finished vest I saw in my head was black & white with my favorite white shirt underneath it.

Other supplies ~
1.5" D-rings from Pacific Trimmings
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
6 yards black piping from Daytona Trimmings

Construction ~
First can I say MARK EVERYTHING! I'm guilty of not marking notches or sometimes eyeballing pocket placement.  This pattern has so much going on that I marked everything. Seriously!

I followed the instructions for applying the pockets and making the slit that the belt goes through. Honestly I wasn't worried at all about cutting a hole in my vest front. I knew it was going to work. That there wouldn't be a problem because everything is properly marked and the instructions are excellent for how to make it work.

Now I will be honest that I did go my own way a few times:
1. When I sewed up the back seam. I read the instructions and ignored them and went with what I knew would work for me.  Which was sewing the seam, topstitching the seam on either side and then adding the bar tack.

2. I ignored the collar instructions totally.  Partly because I'd read some reviews that were critical of the application and when I read them I thought they were making the process unnecessarily difficult. So I used my own method that I've used for years.

3. Which resulted in me making the collar TOTALLY wrong!  I skipped/ignored that part of the instructions and inserted the collar like I normally do. By doing that, I missed a couple of vital pieces of information. I ended up having to rip out what I'd done and remaking the collar as well as reinserting it. Going my own way also ended up with my lapels not meeting correctly. It's not great but I'm going to wear it anyway because of all of the work I put into making this. 

Junky sewing room background

4. I omitted the inside pocket. I think this is wonderful for the jacket but it just seemed too much for a vest. I have 2 huge pockets on the front besides the breast pocket so just didn't see a need for it.

A couple of additions ~
o  My shoulder seams were a little stretchy because my fabric is spongy. So I added some seam tape in the seams to get them stability.

o  I added bias binding to the facing edge to finish it. 


o  I'm beginning to believe that piping is my fall back. I piped the collar, the lapels & vest front, the armholes and the belt. Although it really did give definition to the very busy print I used.




o  Rayon hem tape was added to the vest hemline and I hand stitched it down instead of machine stitching the hem.

Some photos of the finished vest ~






Conclusions ~
This turned out to be a very involved sew. Some because I made some errors and some because I added techniques that lengthened the sewing time. I like the uniqueness of this design. It's what drew me to the pattern. And I like my finished piece. While it has it's imperfections, it still works for me. Since I aim for doing the best I can and not being perfect, I'm good with this. 

One more thing, since I omitted the sleeves, I have no comment on the sleeve/underarm conversation. However, the underarm is quite high on this to me. Again since I chose to make the vest it doesn't affect it's wear.

Finally, I don't think I will be making this again. It's too distinctive. Also it just didn't talk to me when I was sewing it. Usually a pattern has a full on discussion with me during pattern alterations and construction...pointing out fabrics in the collection that it will work with along with trim variations. None of that happened this time. So it's a one and done for now.

I have a pile of shirting fabrics sitting on the cutting table waiting to be cut out. I also have a few cardigan ideas floating around in my head I want to explore. So I will be working on one or two of those during my Holiday Break since I'm off after today and go back to work on Monday, January 6th 2020. 

...as always more later!




43 comments:

  1. I love this. I am about to muslin the other view and make in linen. Your skill with border and double sided fabric is unmatched. This is a classic Carolyn make. Classy, inventive, and beautiful.

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    1. Sue - it's a detailed sew but worth it in the end. I'm sure you will love your final jacket. Thanks for the love!

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  2. I think it's great. I hope you wear it.

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    1. Deb - thank you and Yes I will be wearing it in the new year!

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  3. Fabulous vest ....and the shoes are spectacular! I love your Jason Wu inspiration for the vest. Now you know why their version is $495 :-).

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    1. Rebecca - can you believe that Jason Wu dress is soooooo much like the jacket?! Aren't you glad you can sew?!

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  4. Holy Cow! What a way to end the year. This look is a home run and you look great in it. Thank you for the details and pics, I am saving this for a reread. Holiday blessings to you and your family.

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    1. Thanks Pat! And thanks for following along so faithfully! Happy Holidays to you and your family too!

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  5. Fabulous vest! You showed us the inspiration, trials, and solutions that make it a success. I think showing these make your blog THE ONE that sewists must read. Congratulations and please continue to do what you do in 2020. Happy Holidays! Karen

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    1. Karen - you're too kind! Others are showing their process now too...in that aspect I think people blogging have swung back to the way we were originally.

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  6. I was going to write "Those SHOES!" and saw Ira comment and it made me laugh in agreement, those shoes are perfect for this outfit and your piping work takes this up a notch. It's a beautiful outfit.

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    1. I love those shoes! They are one of the few pairs I've kept from my corporate days and they work perfectly with anything black and white! Thank you for liking the vest!

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  7. Looks great. From my side of the screen I see no imperfections so I'll just take your word for it. ;) Merry Xmas and Happy New Year!

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    1. Peter - you know we're always more critical of our own makes than others are! Thank you for the compliment and Happy Holidays to you and yours too!

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  8. This is a great looking vest, I do love the fabric you chose for it. Aren't you lucky to have a friend so wonderful to give you the already printed pattern. I'm with you on pdf patterns, all that taping and then to have to trace it, ugh. Great looking outfit, just what you had in mind.

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    1. Connie - I almost cried when she said that! Cause I wouldn't have this amazing vest any other way...which makes me sad because other plus size sewists should have the option to purchase a paper pattern if they want to have this vest or jacket too.

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  9. Carolyn, I am LOVING this vest! The piping was a smart move on the belt. I love the way it breaks up the pattern from the back view. Your styling is OMGOSH! So perfect! The SHOES!!!

    I was cracking up when you said the pattern talks to you during construction. I know EXACTLY what you mean. LOL!!!

    You did an amazing job in this vest! Merry Christmas and enjoy your sewing time during break.

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    1. Anita - I was pleasantly surprised by the belt and how it worked after cutting out because that wasn't intentional. I totally got lucky with that. I know I always wonder if people think I'm crazy cause I say my patterns talk to me! Thank you for loving the vest.

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  10. Love that the lapels contrast and add such sophistication to a classic garment. I'm sure your readers will be making their own version of this cool vest in the future! You inspire and educate with every thing you make, Carolyn!

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    1. mrsmole - that contrast was the first thing that spoke to me when I started making this vest. I wasn't sure about it for a long time in (even saved enough fabric to recut the piece) but it's one of those things that really works that I love.

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  11. This is so, so, so good! I liked this pattern when it was first released, but you saw potential in it that I didn't- you really elevated it. The piping just makes it.

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    1. Megan - thank you! I like basic designs because they give you the opportunity to play and playing is the fun part of sewing for me.

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  12. Great job! This will look amazing with black jeans. And I love the piping. I need to find an online source for piping. All we have locally is the packaged stuff from Joann's and that doesn't add much to a garment. I get tired of making my own- adds so much time and effort to the project. I would use it more often if I had a source. I am going to make the shorter version of this Maker Jacket- for short me. I love the belt with the rings. But it would take a bit to adjust that to my short body.

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    1. TC, I will probably wear it with black jeans and a pair of black sneakers...not quite as dressed as this to work. I do like that there are different versions with different styling in this pattern making it a better buy.

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  13. I appreciate your honesty about this pattern and the trials and tribulations of making a pattern for the first time. I’m glad I’m not the only one who has full on conversations with their patterns and sewing too! Have a great Christmas.

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    1. WobblyBobbins - LOL! I figured there were more sewists like me out there!

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  14. Looks great and your styling is spot on! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

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    1. Cathy - thanks and Merry Christmas to you and your family too!

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  15. I love it and once again, you have paired your garment with the perfect shoe! How do you do that???? I like it with the belt best. Glad to hear your sewjo has returned. Yay!

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    1. Bunny - I use to have a serious shoe addiction and I would buy a pair of heels to go with fabric and an outfit. While I don't wear heels as much any more, I have kept a few pair that I just couldn't bear to part with...they occasionally work with my new garments. Though black and white is always easy to match!

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  16. Absolutely love this look on you Carolyn!

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  17. You do such beautiful work and I love the way you finish things with little touches (time consuiming little touches) that add such style. Hugs!

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    1. Lorrie - thanks! LOL - you're right I do tend to add time consuming techniques to everything and I don't see that changing for the foreseeable future. Glad you're inspired to sew again.

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  18. It's perfect! I love the fit and that fabric is cool and awesome and super versatile!!!

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  19. Your makes are always inspiring to me! I’m excited to make this jacket (I’ll want the sleeves for my life), and now I think I’ll make a vest, too so I can wear it in my office.
    I don’t comment enough on your blog, but it’s one of the few I enjoy reading regularly. I like how thoughtful and real you are about your process and what worked, or didn’t!
    Also, LOVE the realistic sewing room photos. I like to sew in my jammies :)

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    1. Chrisagriff2 - definitely make your jacket. I think it's worth the effort and there are so many great verisons popping up on the internet right now. Ah, I only got time for realism and I don't own one of those pretty social media sewing rooms. It's junky and overstuffed and a wonderful place to create in! I'm grateful for it every day!

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  20. Just chiming in to say what an inspiration you are! Someone who sews so beautifully, sews with WOVEN fabrics and occasionally loses the mojo. You keep it real and I just love ya!

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