Sienna Maker Jacket/Vest

A Little Backstory First ~
I really liked this jacket pattern when it debuted. I was thrilled to see it in expanded sizes but not so thrilled that the expanded sizes were available in PDF Patterns only. Cause y'all know I just can NOT deal with PDF Patterns. So I pouted and whined about it to a friend. A very kind and generous friend who gifted me the pdf pattern printed from PDF Plotting.  Did I mention she's a very kind and generous friend!

Now, I really don't need the expanded sizing because my measurements fit into a size 20 with a minimal amount of alterations for my hips. But it was really nice to have all the sizes AND the bust dart because I love me some bust darts!

My version...

Inspiration ~
As I stated I really like the jacket, however, when Heather posted a couple of vests made from the pattern, my creative nerve endings stood to attention! 

from Closet Case Patterns IG account

This look is what I need in my life! Seriously this worn over a shirt or a cashmere turtleneck will be perfect this winter! Then I found this Jason Wu dress on Net-A-Porter and knew that I needed to sew this up right away.

Well right away took a minute because at the same time my Sewjo decided that it needed a vacation...so it took some time to get this made and into my closet.

The Pattern and Instructions ~
Y'all I love, love, love the pattern instructions. They are full of helpful information in an easy to read format.  I especially loved the full page of finished garment measurements that give you measurements for everything. This was so helpful when picking which size to trace and cut out.

Using those measurements, I went with size 20 shoulders, size 22 bust/waist and size 24 hips. I chose these sizes because I wanted a loosely fitted vest that would let me put a blouse or a lightweight sweater under it.

...a few fit pictures...

Back view - first fitting

Side view - first fitting

(Yes I look a hot mess sewing. Don't you?!)

What I didn't like - was the collar instructions. They are a little difficult to follow. So I went my own way and that's what's different between my collar and the ones in the inspiration pictures.  See comments below in the construction section and my neglect in continuing to read those wonderful pattern instructions!!!

Also, I know Heather said the Sienna is a chic utility jacket inspired by vintage French workwear. However, I never saw anything utilitarian about this pattern so I kinda went for it to make it more upscale...more like me.

Materials Used ~
I bought a border print denim from Chic Fabrics in late September that I thought would make an amazing vest. After prewashing it, it was really stretchy with all of the finishing removed...like 10-12% spandex added. Not what I wanted for this vest.  So I had to ponder where to go next.

I found a black & white reversible rayon/poly print amongst the fabric piles and I went with that.  Why?  Because the finished vest I saw in my head was black & white with my favorite white shirt underneath it.

Other supplies ~
1.5" D-rings from Pacific Trimmings
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
6 yards black piping from Daytona Trimmings

Construction ~
First can I say MARK EVERYTHING! I'm guilty of not marking notches or sometimes eyeballing pocket placement.  This pattern has so much going on that I marked everything. Seriously!

I followed the instructions for applying the pockets and making the slit that the belt goes through. Honestly I wasn't worried at all about cutting a hole in my vest front. I knew it was going to work. That there wouldn't be a problem because everything is properly marked and the instructions are excellent for how to make it work.

Now I will be honest that I did go my own way a few times:
1. When I sewed up the back seam. I read the instructions and ignored them and went with what I knew would work for me.  Which was sewing the seam, topstitching the seam on either side and then adding the bar tack.

2. I ignored the collar instructions totally.  Partly because I'd read some reviews that were critical of the application and when I read them I thought they were making the process unnecessarily difficult. So I used my own method that I've used for years.

3. Which resulted in me making the collar TOTALLY wrong!  I skipped/ignored that part of the instructions and inserted the collar like I normally do. By doing that, I missed a couple of vital pieces of information. I ended up having to rip out what I'd done and remaking the collar as well as reinserting it. Going my own way also ended up with my lapels not meeting correctly. It's not great but I'm going to wear it anyway because of all of the work I put into making this. 

Junky sewing room background

4. I omitted the inside pocket. I think this is wonderful for the jacket but it just seemed too much for a vest. I have 2 huge pockets on the front besides the breast pocket so just didn't see a need for it.

A couple of additions ~
o  My shoulder seams were a little stretchy because my fabric is spongy. So I added some seam tape in the seams to get them stability.

o  I added bias binding to the facing edge to finish it. 

o  I'm beginning to believe that piping is my fall back. I piped the collar, the lapels & vest front, the armholes and the belt. Although it really did give definition to the very busy print I used.

o  Rayon hem tape was added to the vest hemline and I hand stitched it down instead of machine stitching the hem.

Some photos of the finished vest ~

Conclusions ~
This turned out to be a very involved sew. Some because I made some errors and some because I added techniques that lengthened the sewing time. I like the uniqueness of this design. It's what drew me to the pattern. And I like my finished piece. While it has it's imperfections, it still works for me. Since I aim for doing the best I can and not being perfect, I'm good with this. 

One more thing, since I omitted the sleeves, I have no comment on the sleeve/underarm conversation. However, the underarm is quite high on this to me. Again since I chose to make the vest it doesn't affect it's wear.

Finally, I don't think I will be making this again. It's too distinctive. Also it just didn't talk to me when I was sewing it. Usually a pattern has a full on discussion with me during pattern alterations and construction...pointing out fabrics in the collection that it will work with along with trim variations. None of that happened this time. So it's a one and done for now.

I have a pile of shirting fabrics sitting on the cutting table waiting to be cut out. I also have a few cardigan ideas floating around in my head I want to explore. So I will be working on one or two of those during my Holiday Break since I'm off after today and go back to work on Monday, January 6th 2020. 

...as always more later!