McCalls 6886

My daughter is starting a new job. It's been over a year since she's worked because having Miss Sammy was a little challenging.  Now that Miss Sammy is seven months old, is happy and healthy, her mother has found a new salon to work at.  Which means my daughter needs a few new easy outfits that will work for now as well as carry her into fall.  Trying to sew with three children five and under is challenging to say the least...and since I had some time this weekend...we decided to stack and whack!

McCalls 6886

We started with McCalls 6886 because it's a simple knit dress with two pieces - one for the front and one for the back. She wanted the sleeveless version for its versatility. You know add a cardigan or shirt over it, or a turtleneck, or a button down with a belt and the dress is a hardworking garment. 

First I tissue fit the pattern pieces to her. A process that she was unaware of...how is that possible when she took sewing classes in high school? Anyway, I made a few changes to the pattern.

• For the back pattern piece I made a petite adjustment by folding out 2" inches.
• I used a size 14 for the shoulders, neckline and bustline area and a 16 in the waist and hips.

After cutting out, I used a small zigzag stitch on my sewing machine to baste the dress together so she could try it on.  After trying it on, it was a little loose. I made most of the changes to the back of the dress since she is smaller in the back than in the front. The alterations were made by having my daughter wear the dress inside out. Then I pinned out the excess fabric and serged it off using the pins as a guide.

Pinned the cut off piece to the pattern piece

Pattern Piece after it's been adjusted 

and new cutting line added

• Then the dress was serged together. 
• I used stay tape at the shoulder seams for stability.
• The neckline and armholes were turned under and stitched flat.
• Stitch witchery was used in the hemline.

Here she is wearing the black version made from a black ponte knit from Fabric Mart...

Subsequent versions of the dress took about 70 minutes (yes I timed it!) to make and only one yard of fabric...a perfect sew.  I made five of these in one day. Three (Two from the black ponte & a black 'n white herringbone ITY) she took home and the rest she'll pick up later this week. 

These two are also from a ponte from Fabric Mart

We  used both sides of the fabric for two new dresses

Now I'm scouring the fabric collection to see if I can come up with five more. Two weeks worth of dresses that can be dressed up, down and around will make getting dressed in the morning so easy...especially since she's got three little kids to wake up and get ready too!

I think I have another couple of weeks of unselfish sewing going on.  I bought a pair of leggings for Miss Lena this weekend and I want to compare them to McCalls 6457 (sorry it's out of print) to make up some leggings for her along with a few tops.

McCalls 6457

Then I'm finally going to get back to those Deer & Doe t-shirts for my co-workers! So there's going to be a lot of sewing going on during the next couple of weeks, just not much for me.

However, I am making up my fall/winter sewing list and I can tell you that there isn't much quick and easy on it. I have a lot of clothing now so I feel like I can take my time and really enjoy the sewing journey. Though I have to tell you it was awesome turning out five dresses in one day!!!

...as always more later!

Honored...

The "Tribute"  theme for August has come to a close on the Sewcialists blog. If you've visited many blogs lately, there has been a mention of the Tribute series. For July it was to make a garment inspired by my good friend, Oonaballoona and there were some amazing garments made and prizes awarded. 

For August the theme was for sewists to make a garment like someone who inspires you. To my great surprise and even greater honor, two bloggers chose my TNT dresses as their inspiration...

First Marrie from Purls and Pleats...

Okay if this doesn't look like one of my dresses, I don't know what does. She even wore it with a cardigan!  Marrie, I love this and hope that you get a lot of wear out of it. Also, that McCalls pattern you're using is very versatile and I'm sure will make you so many more wonderful dresses in the future.

And then Cari from Cari Homemaker...

Cari made a dress using Vogue 8972 and a ponte fabric.  Cari hit two recent trends, black 'n white and lace.  Isn't her version fantastic!  And the shoes, people, the shoes are to die for! What a wonderful outfit!

Stop the presses ~
I've just been notified in the comments that there is another tribute.  This one from Blue Sunday!

What's so awesome about this tribute is that Nisha is admiring my love of fabric In particular, she used a piece based upon my adoration of border prints.  Didn't Nisha do a great job of using the border print in an inventive way?  To be honest, I've never read Nisha's blog, but I'm rectifying that now by adding her to my blogroll & bloglovin'. 

As the saying goes, "Imitation is the Greatest Form of Flattery", and you ladies have more than flattered me.  You've honored me that you want to emulate my style aesthetic and my love of fabric!  Thanks so much all of your garments are absolutely awesome!!!

...as always more later!

#fatquarterchallengedress

My apologies that this is a day late...but peewee football season has started and my daughter, my photographer, spent her morning and afternoon at a football game.  When she arrived late afternoon to take photos, there were three tired and cranky grandchildren accompanying her...not a good combo for photos...so we waited until today.

The Introduction ~
In a previous post I stated that I've decided to be very liberal with the requirements of this challenge, because my point was to get a wearable garment out of those fat quarters.  I have to admit that this was a very hard challenge for me.  I will remember that the next time I'm out to dinner with a bunch of women, and there are quite a few pitchers of margaritas on the table, before I sprout off at the mouth!

My first attempt at making a dress was so horrible that one - I refused to take pictures of it beyond the pic I posted to Instagram early in the process (dayum that was four months ago!) and two - my daughter took one look at it and said trash it. That scarred me. Seriously...and I hid the fat quarters in the sewing cave so that I could not see them mocking me.

Then the dayum challenge came back up and I had to come up with something...anything...wearable.

The Idea ~
From my internet travels, I saw the pictures in this blog post and they triggered something in me creatively. Gave me a new perspective and a different way to go. So using it as my basis, I worked from there on a new idea.

I have to say that my first idea was for smaller stripes from the fat quarters - about 1" wide...but because I wasn't sure if this idea would even work...I didn't want to invest that kind of time on cutting and sewing smaller stripes. So I went with the larger ones using my altered TNT pattern, used here.

Construction ~
Of course making the stripes and sewing them together so that they used the majority of the fat quarters was the most important part of the challenge. 

As I stated above, I originally wanted 1" strips as the finished width but settled on 4" strips, that when sewn together made 3" strips. I used 1/2" seam allowances, not the normal quilters 1/4" SAs.  Mostly because I think you need to be really precise with 1/4" seams and I'm just not that precise. Also, I figured out the math better using 1/2" seams! *LOL* Another consideration was that I didn't want this to have a "quilting" feel.  I wanted it to look like a "professional" dress that I would wear to work.

Of course the stripes took a fair amount of time ~ cutting out, sewing, and pressing. One more note, each fat quarter I received is represented, but I added some solid pieces of linen to help with the look of the stripes and erase some of that Hobby Holly Dress look. What my boss called this picture from Instagram.

My only other challenge was to insure that the side seams matched where the stripes joined each other AND to insure that the fat quarter stripes were on the same side front and back.

The rest of the dress was actually a breeze after the stripe placement was determined and worked out. I have to tell you that I was shocked when I got the dress shell together.  Seriously shocked.  My idea worked and it didn't look bad. To make sure that I wasn't just placating myself, I sent a pic to my daughter. After she declared it a success, I forged ahead to get this finished.

We Interrupt this Process ~
However, I'd danced around the process so long that I didn't have time to finish it during the week.  To make matters worse, after a few days I noticed that the fat quarter side of the dress was hanging lower than the linen side. This was because of the weight I added when I used fusible interfacing on the back side of each stripe.
  
Now somewhere in this process I told myself that I should underline the linen with silk organza.  But being wary that the idea would work, I didn't want to invest that kind of time and resources in a dress that might end up as a wadder.  

Once I realized that the dress worked, I very reluctantly decided that I needed to add the silk organza to it so that it would hang correctly.  So I took the dress apart, cut pieces of black silk organza and basted them to the linen pieces. Then sewed the dress back together.  Do you understand now why I didn't make that Friday deadline?

Back to Construction Details ~
I added a navy blue bemberg rayon lining to the dress.  

Thank goodness that was in the notions stash!  I also broke down and added navy piping to the neckline.  Seriously if I blew past the deadline, I was going all in on this dress.

Somewhere in the construction process, I decided that it was a good idea to make bias binding from some of the remaining pieces of fat quarters to bind the armholes. 

Yeah I was wading deep into the pool of throwing every technique I knew into this dress...or is this just the way I sew now?  Who knows...but what is truth is that there is self made bias binding in this dress also.

Some hems, okay not just some hems...I added navy blue rayon seam binding to the dress hem and a beige lace to the lining hem and the dress was finally done...

...just in time for some photos before it started to rain!

A few more pics of "The Fat Quarter Challenge" Dress...

In Conclusion ~
I can honestly tell you that I won't be doing one of these challenges again! *LOL* What a wonderful way to inhibit my creativity!  I know some people flourish and thrive with these types of deadlines producing amazing garments but me...ummmm not so much!  I have learned several things from this challenge...

1. You can make a wearable garment for an adult using fat quarters. Just next time I'd like to pick my own fat quarters!
2. I don't sew well with a deadline (okay I already knew that one it was just reinforced!)
3. I am incapable now of sewing something simple...seriously, silk organza underlining, piping at the neckline, self made bias binding...I got problems y'all! *LOL*
4. Never open my big mouth saying I can do something with liquor on the table...

Finally, I have pieces of fat quarters remaining that may show up in the days, weeks and months ahead in the granddaughters clothing...you have been forewarned!

...as always more later!

Tomorrow...

Fact ~
My fat quarter challenge reveal should have happened today.

Reality ~
It will not.  Instead it will happen tomorrow.  I've been granted a 24 hour reprieve by the lovely Oonaballoona because I'm just not making it home in time to finish it. Now granted, this is my own fault.  I did drag my feet on this because I was scared, scarred and without hope that I could successfully meet this challenge.

However, I've had a breakthrough and have crafted "a can be worn to work dress" using pieces from all of my fat quarters.

Here's a sneaky peek...

Definitely revealing tomorrow...and since that Annie song Tommorrow is running through my head...here's the trailer for the new Annie movie coming out in December of this year.

...as always more later!!!

A Refresh

I made this dress back in September 2009 during one of my first sewcations:

It's actually been worn only once or twice.  Why?  Because of that ruffle...it looked great when I was standing still but I ended it in a funny place. So in day to day wearing it was just weird.  Therefore, it sat in the back of the closet.

After I moved, I put it in the sewing cave to be altered...before the flood...then I lost track of it after I put the cave back together.  Moving some clothes around last weekend, I found it again and realized that it wouldn't take much to change it. 

Removing the ruffle and trim was easy enough...

But it meant the dress was kind of plain. To combat that I added some stitching at the neckline and sleeve hems.  It's still a very basic dress but I have several cardigans, along with an assortment of necklaces that will make this sing!

Here are a few pictures of the refreshed dress in action...

Worn with a RTW cardigan

I'm glad I took the time to alter it!  It's been a cooler, less humid and hot summer, so this dress is perfect to add to the rotation. I haven't sewn as much this year as I have in years past. Probably because I have a closet full of beautiful clothing and I keep finding treasures like these hidden in the back of it.

...as always more later!

McCalls 2014 Fall Collection

Y'all know that I stopped doing pattern release reviews a long time ago. There are so many fresher, newer and better takes on these reviews than I can write so I've bowed to those awesome critiques. So why am I writing one now? Because I was really looking forward to the new patterns by Khaliah Ali.  I loved the line she had for years at Simplicity and was eagerly anticipating some of those fashionable designs for plus size women in the new McCalls line...

So I breathlessly clicked into the McCalls Pattern site when I received the email that the fall patterns were being revealed especially because Khaliah Ali's name was in the tag line.  

These are the three patterns they debuted...

McCalls 7027

McCalls 7028

McCalls 7029

I'm gonna be honest.  I am disappointed with these three patterns. I went back and forth about writing this review because hey, I really like all the things The McCalls Pattern Company is doing to connect with the home sewist these days. But I won't be buying any of these patterns.

You would think that I would at least like the tunic/pants/overblouse & dress pattern...nah not so much.  Especially since I made my own version of that dress using my TNT pattern back in 2008 - actually two different versions with sleeves...

January 2008

March 2008

Dang, now that I think about it...I made a version last year too! So I won't be buying that pattern...well actually, I won't be buying any of these patterns...I will be waiting and hoping that the next release will be something that I can dive into! 

If you do like these patterns, please purchase them because I want this line to continue and thrive at McCalls...but could we get a few more seams, maybe some garments that have a closer fit and NO MORE TENTS! Oh and these only go up to a 24W and yes, I'm going to say it...at Simplicity they went up to a 32W...four more sizes for my plus size sistahs that have enough problems getting nice patterns without having to grade them up would be awesome too. 

So thank you in advance because I know you're listening now!

...as always more later!

#reversethehate

...Orlando Jones says it all...there are no other words necessary...

The video has been removed but you can see Orlando Jones interviewed here on MSNBC.

#justiceforMichaelBrown 

#weareallferguson

The Things I Want to Sew for Fall 2014

Well all of the September issues have landed either in my mailbox or on my iPad - yes, I've gone back to getting some of those issues on my iPad because the amount of paper can be mind boggling!  Sorry to put some of you magazine peeps out of jobs...but it is what it is!

Anyway, People's Stylewatch September 2014 issue, says that these are the Must-Have's for Fall...

1. Plaid - everything
I have several pieces of plaid wools that I bought last year or had in the fabric collection and I want to use them to make a couple of plaid items this year ~ so check, check on this one!

2. Chunky Knits
While this is "new" to the list this year, chunky knits are classics to me.  I already own a few of these, so won't be adding any more.

3.  Bold Colors
I always like to add color to my winter wardrobe - it helps with the dreary blues that occur in Jan/Feb/March when winter sets in with a vengence.

4.  Cutout Heels
I'm passing on this one because it doesn't fit with my lifestyle.

5.  Dark Florals
I have some fall florals but I'm actually on the fence about this trend...I may make something or I may not!

6.  Robe Coats
I just bought Butterick 6107. I have a pretty purple wool that's already backed with interfacing which I bought from Mood Fabrics in November 2013. I thought of the fabric when I bought the pattern, maybe this will be the year that I use it.

7.  Lug Sole Boats
Again, a trend I will pass on.

8.  Boxy Bags
These are really cute handbags but not something I really need or would use in my everyday life.  I cart way to much stuff daily to me these look like car bags and not commuting bags.

9.  Shift Dresses
Okay really, I sew them, own them and will continue to wear them.

10. Statement Earrings
Again another trend I will pass on.

However, I do want to add a few things...

Color and Fabrications ~
I want another garment or two using the color ~ emerald green. I have a wool and a silk blend print in the collection that I'd like to use. This winter I also want to sew some of the gray fabric I've accumulated since gray is another hot color for fall and it actually works in my professional life. Pinstripes, pinstripes and more pinstripes ~ yes there are loads of them in the fabric collection and I'd like to sew a couple of them.

Pantsuits ~
This category makes my list every fall winter...but last year I made a tunic and pants combination as a pantsuit. Since then I've seen loads of them on Pinterest, magazines and in catalogs. I definitely want to make a couple more.

Slimmer Leg Pants ~
I don't like skin tight pants probably because I have bodacious thighs...but I would like to sew a couple pairs of slimmer legged pants...as well as a pair of ponte pants.

Faux Leather ~
There is still alot of faux and real leather in garments for fall/winter, so I will be making a few more pieces with faux leather in them.  This particular dress from Lafayette 148 is calling my name...

As you can tell I'm looking forward to fall/winter sewing and have already started to assemble a list of things I want to sew. Okay honestly, I'm not looking forward to winter especially since for our area they are predicting even more snow for this winter versus last winter...but I so love sewing wool fabrics!

#fatquarterchallenge ~
This weekend I'm working on my #fatquarterchallenge dress.  I can tell you that I went ahead and took advantage of the loopholes provided when we reignited the challenge.  My goal is to get a dress that I can wear to work using all of the fat quarters...however, unless I make a woven top, these little pieces of fabric aren't big enough to go around my bodacious body.

I really wanted to adher to the spirit of the challenge which was to make a wearable garment...so I'm using pieces of ALL of the fat quarters in my dress. I've got a name for my dress based upon what my boss called it when she saw the pic of my fat quarters on Instagram.  I will reveal the dress' name and the actual dress this Friday.

Finally, I do have a couple of posts to share with you this week before the #fatquarterchallenge reveal. I didn't plan to not post last week but I was extremely busy and I just never got around to it.  I do have a little more to say this week and since the Labor Day Holiday Weekend (here in the US) is coming up next weekend...my plans are to spend it in my sewing cave...especially since my annual September sewcation isn't happening this year.

...as always more later!

Sleeve Embellishment

The summer version of Butterick 5821 is my favorite piece of all of the garments I've made recently.  It wears easily plus I love the details that I included in this dress. I especially love the sleeves.  I think they really add to the overall look of the dress.

In that post I said that I would show how I made the changes to the sleeves and the process is below.

The sleeve was cut out. Then 2" was cut off of the bottom. Next the piping was basted onto the sleeve, 5/8" from the edge.  

A 2" long by the width of the sleeve strip of the black and white polka dot fabric was cut. The edges were serge finished. 

A picture of all the parts prior to stitching them together.

Pinning the strip to the sleeve with the piping attached.

Stitching the pieces together using my zipper foot. Sewing right next to the piping to enclose it in the seam.

Embellishment stitched to sleeve

Band folded in half. Pressed flat and pinned.

Topstitched the piping close to the seam

Finished sleeves showing piping and black n white polka dot fabric

I've made these types of sleeves before on other dresses because I think they add an interesting element to them.  I hope this process will help you add this embellishment to one of your future garments.

...as always more later!