Another Cardigan + A Swingy Tee

Prior to Covid, cardigans played a huge part in my wardrobe.  I threw a cardigan over a shirt, tee or turtleneck and wore those layers over skirts and pants.  I even wore a lot of cardigans, aka Michelle Obama, over a dress in my Corporate Days.  Add a pair of pearls and pumps, you were professional and ready to go! 

While I was home for 18 months, I only wore the old junky cardis which were also worn as a layering piece.  I haven't actually thought about making more even though I own several TNT cardigan patterns, because they used to be an essential part of my wardrobe.  

So of course in the unsewn cut pile I moved last year, there was one last cardigan cut out. Since it's in my blue color scheme and perfect for back to work wear this spring, I started working on it Mother's Day weekend.

The cardigan was cut from Simplicity 8059.  I've made 8 versions from the pattern.  All but one of them remain in my wardrobe.  The vanilla cable version pilled so badly that I let it go. I love this cardigan because it's a simple throw on, easy wear cardigan that can be made from any kind of knit fabric. I have used ponte, wool jersey, velvet, sweater knit and even made a border print ponte version.

It's everything I like in a pattern. Easy to wear, made for simple variations (changed up the closures) and can be sewn in a variety of fabrics. It's been sitting for a few months, waiting for the temps to cool down so I could photograph it. Like with everything else I've sewn lately, this has already been worn out and about.

Supplies ~

Pattern: Simplicity 8059 which is out of print

Crochet knit fabric purchased from Fabric Mart

Black Silk organza from Thai Silks

Black fusible stay tape from Design Plus

Construction ~

For this cardigan I sewed the sleeves in using the flat application.  My favorite method. It's so much easier to get a knit sleeve in without puckers if you use the flat sleeve sew-in method...well to me!

Also because it was a knit, I used the silk organza facings that I'd use in my last version.  However, I did not add the fusible interfacing. Sewing wrong sides together, flipped in, pressed flat and then the fusible bias tape was added to insure the neckline did not grow...

I also used the fusible stay tape to stabilize the neckline of the cardigan...

Since this is a special knit it needed more techniques to insure that I did not stretch out the neckline or mishandle the application of the sleeves. So I added Seams Great to the neckline to stop the stretch.

Honestly, I have a few challenges with the finished cardigan - I've gained a few pounds since it was cut so it doesn't really close well.  Then I added the ties up too high on the v-neckline.  I've worn it and it didn't really bother me but aesthetically it's annoying.  However, not annoying enough to go in and fix it! *LOL*

A Few Pictures ~

A Swingy Tee ~

This is my Pembroke pattern that I added a couple of inches from the waist to the hemline on the front and back pieces by using the pivot and slide method. When I cut this out, I really wanted an easy slip on top to wear over jeans or leggings while working from home.

However, it pairs so well with the cardigan I've worn it to work this way. Though to be honest I've worn the top more than the cardigan. It's such a great layering piece and I definitely want to make more of them, possibly with a cowl neckline.

Supplies ~

Pattern:  Cashmerette's Pembroke Top

Fabric:  100% cotton knit from Organic Cotton - this has been in the collection for a few years and deserved to be sewn.

Construction ~

o The thing I like about Cashmerette Patterns is that the construction is done with a flat application.

o As always, I add some stay tape to the shoulder seams to stabilize them.

o I omitted the cowl AND the neckband facing.  Instead I turned the neckline down 1/2", pressed and used a twin needle to hem it.

o To make the swing, I did a pivot and slide from the neckline on both the front  and back pieces.  I slide it about 2-3 inches from the fold to gain the swing through the waist and hip area. 

o The sleeves are perfect for pushing up when wearing alone or wearing a little longer under the cardigan.

A Few Photos ~

This is another one of those outfits it's taken me forever to photograph so I've worn this top a few times already. But I love the extra swing in it because it's comfortable...and honestly comfort is more important to me than almost anything else these days!  Comfort with a little style are my guiding sewing lights now.

Finally, thank goodness this outfit has been blogged!

...as always more later!

Cashmerette Fuller Cardigan

I was really excited when Jenny asked for testers for the Fuller Cardigan. It had two things I really wanted in a cardigan - a button front and raglan sleeve. Also with Cashmerette patterns I have to make minimal fit changes and I can just sew...which is the part I like best.

As I said, I made the tester version and the subsequent pattern has a few changes made to it. So I made one using the new pattern (which I got as soon as it became available) because I wanted to see the changes especially since I basically liked my tester version. 

I sewed this right out of the envelope using my normal size 24, C/D cup. The same size I made in the tester version. I tried it on to figure out button placement and it didn't close across the front! Dayum, dayum, dayum!!! I checked my pattern pieces. They were the same as the tester front. Then and only then did I check my ponte's stretch - ummmmm not enough. Dayum, dayum, dayum.

My challenge was I already had an outfit in mind.  The Fuller Cardigan plus a sleeveless Pembroke cowl neck tunic (info on this in a future post) and I didn't want to donate this cardigan.  So see my solution below...

Yes a chain finish! I have several of these collected from eBay when Glee was huge and Emma Pillsbury, the teacher who wore the cardigans with the chains, was big. This is why you shouldn't Marie Kondo everything!

I also added an inch to the hemline and can honestly say I forgot to lengthen the front facing too. So I didn't get to use the amazing mitered corner finishing in the pattern instructions. But since I will be making another one, you can bet I will rectify my bad cutting to get that corner finish.

For the sleeves, I used the fuller bicep sleeve pattern. Thanks for that Jenny! Because it means I don't have to worry about having enough space in my biceps or make alterations to the pattern. My design touch was to two tone the sleeves - black ponte sleeves (with enough stretch btw) and the cuff is cut from the base fabric.

Supply List ~
2 yards printed ponte from Fabric Mart - collection fabric
1 yard of black ponte from Fabric Mart - collection fabric
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

A Few Pictures ~

Fuller Cardigan worn with a Pembroke Sleeveless Tunic

 

For reference I'm adding a picture of the tester version. I took these at work and posted them to Instagram yesterday.  

To me the hip band was a little off-putting on the tester version so I'm glad it was omitted from the final version, even though it doesn't look bad on this cardi.  I also added a button onto the bottom band of my tester version. Honestly I may or may not use that band in a future version of this cardigan because I see more Fullers in my future!

I hope if you're a plus size sewist looking for a great basic cardigan, you will purchase a copy of The Fuller Cardigan...cause really can you have too many cardigans?! 

...as always more later!

How about some pictures?

Up first - me wearing the TNT plaid sheath dress with the matching cardigan:

The dress alone:

Next, me in the cardigan/top and pants:

And here is the newest dress and the second piece in my SWAP Collection, "Midnight in the Oasis!"

This dress is made from my TNT dress pattern...well it's a SWAP collection people and the best way to get it finished is to combine a little old with the new! *LOL*

Some stats:

Pattern: 
TNT Dress Pattern

Fabric:
Wool/lycra blend from Fabric.com's Ralph collection

Notions:
22" zipper

Construction Tidbits:
1.  I drew new pattern pieces of the front and back of my TNT dress pattern to make a center front & side front piece and a center back & back side piece.  These pieces were used to make the princess seams in the dress front and back.  I left the dart  on the side front piece so that I would get a good bustline fit.

2.  I started sewing with the back pieces first and put the zipper in.  I only had a regular zipper so I used the center back application.

3.  I sewed the back side pieces onto the center back and pressed the seams toward the zipper.

4.  Next I sewed the center front pieces together leaving an opening from the neckline 5" from the top.

5.  Then I stitched the side fronts to the center front piece.

6.  The center front seams were pressed open and flat, the side front princess seams were pressed towards the center front piece.  I then topstitched the entire piece using the triple stitch feature on my machine stitching from top to bottom to ensure smooth lines.

7.  I also topstitched the bust darts.

8.  The back piece was then topstitched but as I topstitched around the zipper, I noticed the seams pulled away from the zipper.  It was a kewl affect so I kept it.

9.  The sleeve hems were pressed up and topstitching was added to the sleeve hems.

10.  The dress was then assembled as usual ~ shoulder seams and side seams sewn together.

11.  Instead of facings for the neckline...this dress is unlined...I made one inch bias binding from the fabric and used it to finish the neckline.  The binding was then handstitched to the body of the dress.

12.  The hem was also handstitched down.

Some more info:
I loved working with this fabric.  Even though fabric.com says that it is 96% wool and 4% lycra - the fabric had a very stretchy, spongy hand.  I used the topstitching to create vertical lines for a slimming appearance and to mimic the pinstripe fabric that will be used in several other pieces in the collection.

Originally I thought to add a lining to just the top of the dress, however, I settled on binding the neckline.  The fabric was very stretchy and I was concerned about using a regular rayon lining in the dress...plus the fabric is kinda dense so it doesn't really need the additional layer.

Even though the topstitching was time consuming and it took some time to find just the right shade of tan...I sewed slowly because this is the first time that I used this stitch on the Janome 6600...I also had to make several samples to get the tension just right.  However, I'm glad I added it to the dress.  It makes the seams pop!

This is the second piece in my SWAP collection.  Both dresses will go with the jacket that I plan on making from Vogue 8623:

I feel like I'm right on track for getting my plan finished.  I'm making the more complicated pieces first then I will make the bottoms followed by the tops...and as always, more later!

The First Garment of the Year

...is a holdover from 2009.  I started this the weekend that I finished the Vogue 8593 dress...but I only got as far as the fashion fabric shell...so I needed to finish it before I could begin my 2010 sewing.

As previously discussed, this dress is part of "The Cardigan Series" actually the last one in the series.  It was made to accompany these pieces:

Garments that were made about five years ago when I first started my journey with Burda 8869.  This grouping is comprised of a cardigan and sweater from the Burda pattern and a pair of lined pants from my TNT pattern.  I've always wanted to add a dress and skirt to this pairing...giving me more flexibility to wear the pieces...and updating them for my current workplace.

Here is the dress and cardigan (on the hanger):

And a close-up of the front ~

that chain is from my mom who wore it in high school!

Some stats:
Fabric:  wool/poly blend purchased from JoMars
Notions:  1 yard of navy blue piping, 2 yards of navy blue rayon hem tape, 2 yards of black bias binding, 22" invisible zipper

Construction Techniques:
Nothing new and different about it's construction...it's just another version of my TNT dress pattern in a plaid sheath dress with a little bit of navy blue piping at the neckline.  The dress is perfect for work and eliminates 2 yards of fabric from the collection...even though there is still a yard and 1/2 waiting for the skirt to be made from it.

The grouping as it is now:

Next up are two pieces from the SWAP Collection...and pics of me wearing these pieces before I go back to work...I promise!

...more later!

The first day of the new decade

It's been a slow start for me today...haven't done any sewing yet at all.  And last night was spent ushering the New Year in with family and it lasted quite late or early in the morning, which ever way you want to look at it *LOL*  However, I spent most of last night with a crochet hook in my hand and several skeins of yarn surrounding me...which prompted my Mom to tell me that she hadn't seen me like this in quite some time...and it's all Sheila's fault!

See I saw this garment on her site and I had to have one.  So Tuesday night I went to Michael's with a friend of mine and bought about six skeins of yarn, determined to make one for myself. 

This:

Became this:

and then the significant other started to complain his neck was cold so I spent last night amongst relatives working on a scarf for him...no pictures yet, I'm still working on it.  But I've caught the bug and I've been rummaging in the closet looking for the stash of yarn I stored away.  It's been cold as the dickens here lately and it will be nice to have some more crocheted scarves/shawls to keep the cold away...so Sheila see what you've started! *LOL*

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One of my favorite blogs, is Mrs. O.  On Wednesday, the post was about the vintage pins that Mrs. O wears from the Carol Tanenbaum collection and I laughed out loud!  I've been wearing pins like this for over a decade...ever since I went on an outing with my friend, Colleen Jones, in New Hampshire and found this little shop (well barn actually) that sold all of this vintage Monet jewelry.  I bought quite a bit of her pieces, including earrings and some vintagey rhinestone pieces spending $29.  I remember the sum so well because it was alot considering the pieces purchased averaged about 50 cents.  Anyway, here is a pic of a few of my favorites:

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I started a new dress (simple sheath dress from my TNT dress pattern) to go with a cardigan already in my wardrobe last weekend.  It's the last dress in my "Cardigan Series" so I will finish that up before working on my next SWAP garments.  I don't go back to work until Tuesday, Jan 5th so I want to knock out a few more SWAP pieces while I have this time off...there will definitely be more about this later.

As well as a new book review so look forward to both!

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Finally no new year is complete without some kind of sewing purchase!  *smile* I bought the following patterns from the latest Club BMV $3.99/$3.59 pattern sale which ends tonight at 12 midnight CST so you still have time to find something...which is across all three pattern companies, Butterick, McCalls and Vogue...because the new Vogue Pattern Magazine is already in mailboxes...

Here's what I got:

Vogue 1141 - this jacket has been haunting me! *LOL*

Vogue 8559 - this Marcy Tilton cardigan might make it's way into my SWAP also.

Vogue 8597 - will become one of the six tops for my SWAP.

Lastly, a special thank you to Gretchen who also wrote a post about Denise and the Blue Gardenia and to all of you who've purchased a pattern from her site.  It is wonderful of you to do something so kind for someone else and I'm sure Denise appreciates it, but I am in your debt for caring enough for someone in our sewing community to open your purses and help out!  Thank you, thank you, thank you!

...and as always more later!

LindsayT's Choice...

...or Dress #3 in The Cardigan Series.

I bought this fabric from Mood this summer when LindsayT and I went to see the Isabel Toledo exhibit at FIT.  I knew from the moment I touched it, that I wanted to make a sleeveless sheath from it.  The fabric's design would work well with quite a few of the sweaters and jackets already in my closet so bringing it home was a no-brainer.

Some stats:

Pattern:
TNT Dress pattern yet again!  Aren't y'all tired of it by now! *LOL*

Fabric:
Wool & lycra blend from Mood Fabrics

Notions:
Black midweight lining 
22" invisible zipper
5 yards of satin bias binding

Construction Notes:
This is my TNT dress in its basic form.  The fabric does all the work because the design is so fabulous ~ well at least to me! *LOL*  There are just two things of note about this dress.  One ~ I used a mid-weight lining fabric for this dress because I wanted to give the dress some heft.  Even though the fabric is a wool and luscious, it still is a little lightweight. 

The second thing was that since the fabric is sooooo distinctive, I thought it needed a start and a stopping point...you know somewhere your eyes can light upon to rest from the busyness of the fabric.  At first I thought that I would use black piping and even went through the exercise of pulling out all the different types of black piping in my trim stash...who knew I had 4 different types!  But I was about done with piping after the last dress and as I fell asleep last night it came to me that I still had some satin bias binding.  So I used that at the neckline, the armholes

and the hem...I really wanted to contain that print!

That's it!  It was an easy sew and no I did not learn my lesson.  Didn't try that dress on until I was getting ready to hem it.  But since I had made no radical changes to the pattern, it fit like it was suppose to:

and with a 3/4 length black cardigan:

This dress also goes with two other black cardigans in the closet, a black jacket from my 2007 SWAP and a little white wool jacket that I made years ago!

I have just one dress left to go in The Cardigan Series...and then I want to make up a couple of solo pieces that will work with existing pieces in the closet...unless I get another crazy idea and go off on a tangent!

...as always more later!

Dress Number 2 in "The Cardigan Series"

Have you ever worked on a piece that made you doubt your ability to sew?  Well that was this dress!  When I stopped working on it two weeks ago, I had a shell with the lining attached.  The dress had a wonky neckline and the panel that I had cut on the bias was loose.

After waiting two weeks to work on the dress, I thought that I had worked out a solution to the loose bias front piece...add some interfacing to stabilize it.  Well that was the first thing I did yesterday morning.  I cut a piece of ltwt. fusible knit interfacing omitting the seam lines and pressed it to the backside of the front panel.  Problem solved.  The panel immediately took on the hand of the side panels and hung better.  However, when I tried the dress it was a scooch too tight.

This is when I should have been forcefully removed from my sewing machine...but no I plod on!  See at this point I had already hemmed the lining, inserted the sleeves so basically the dress was finished.  I only needed to hem the actual dress...THAT was when I decided to try the dress on...SERIOUSLY!  I mean it was my TNT dress pattern...I never try it on during the construction process...IT.ALWAYS.FITS!

Well it didn't yesterday.  So after I get over my initial shock...shock, it was more like an earthquake! *LOL*  But after the aftershocks subsided, I get out my seam ripper and start to rip.  Yes, rip as in rip the sides out of the dress, the lining..and least we forget the rayon hem tape that is on the lining!  It was alot of sewing to undo and at this point I realize that I am NOT a patternmaker...I just play one in my sewing area!

After basically ripping the dress apart...I press the seams flat.  I pin it all back together and stitch the tinest side seams that I can..and then I stitch them again...you just never know.  I hold my breathe and try the d*mn dress back on...and it fits.  No more stuffed sausage look...well okay that was an exaggeration if I only needed to add about an inch to make it work but still...

So I should be good right...nope.  The neckline is still wonky.  I thought that some of the excess would be removed when I added the sleeves.  Can we just say that I was delusional yesterday and I didn't even have anything to drink stronger than Mountain Dew.  I now have two choices...rip the neck and shoulder out and restitch the yoke or cheat.  *Hanging head in shame*  I cheated.  I just couldn't face my seam ripper again.  It had grown to comfortable in my hand and I just didn't like that feeling...so kiddies, don't do this at home!  Don't imitate me *sigh*  Do the right thing in this situation okay...

How did I cheat?  I placed a fold in the neckline, matching the piping as best I could.  I stitched it from the back and then steamed the heck out of it to make it flat.  Then I went rambling around in my button collection looking for the perfect button to make it look like it was a planned embellishment instead of the laziness it really was.

I think the only thing I did right construction wise was to insert the sleeves using the pinning technique that Ann described on her blog.

I have to tell you, she's right!  This works like a dream!  I got two sleeves inserted perfectly without having to hand baste them in...which is what I normally do and then sometimes I still have to rip one out and insert it again.

You want to see how the dress ended up dontcha!  And I'm sure some of you have already scrolled down and looked...but here goes:

Alone

With a black cardigan

Last night when I went to bed, I thought it was just okay.  However, today after walking around in it, taking pictures and sitting to make sure the side seams would hold, I'm alot happier with it.  Stockings, heels, some make-up and jewelry always makes me feel better! *LOL* 

One last picture of it:

and tomorrow I will show you Dress 3 - which was a much easier sew!  *LOL*