This is version number five for this pattern which is now out-of-print. It is also my first sew of 2016. I need this cardigan for two reasons. One, its turned seasonably cold here in the Tri-State area. I say seasonably because December was unseasonably warm and now the temps are back to normal. Since I sit near the front door at work, my back is always a little chilly. This will keep me warm during the colder temps.
The second reason is because after a week at home sewing complicated things, I needed something easy to sew...something I'd sewn before...something that would be done in an afternoon. I'd pulled this fabric out of the coating & heavy sweater knits bins, currently stored in the garage, earlier this fall. As I was taking down the Christmas decorations, it spoke to me...so I had to comply.
The Supplies ~
Wool/lycra blend knit purchased from Fabric Mart years and years ago!
Lightweight Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
Stay Tape
Pattern Alterations & Construction ~
The last time I made this was in the spring of 2013. Of course there was a little more of me then so I made a few alterations. The main one was to the sleeve. For some reason I couldn't find my altered sleeve pattern, so I made a new one. I made a pattern sandwich using the original sleeve pattern, the one I'm currently using on my TNT dress and a piece of tracing paper. Since the TNT dress sleeve pattern has been recently altered using the Palmer & Pletsch method, I knew it would be fine. I just needed to get the sleeve cap and bicep measurements right.
The side seams were sewn a little wider than the 5/8" recommended by the pattern. I also included a back seam to make the cardigan fit a little better. It still has a slightly loose look but I'm good with that! So other than the fact that there was ALOT of pressing and clapper usage to get all of those seams flat, it was an easy sew. I mean this is the fifth time making it!
However, I did have one challenge. The fabric was soooooo thick that I had some issues making buttonholes. Even after I'd pulled these pretty little green glassy type buttons from the stash to use on the cardi front, I ended up omitting them because I killed my sewing machine. Yeap, my 8900 is on the way to the shop.
Anywoo, I attempted to make the buttonholes on my Janome 6600P but it just wasn't having it. After trying the cardigan on, I decided that I would go ahead and wear it without the buttons. Later once my machine is back, I can make buttonholes or I can take the cardi to the buttonholers in NYC. Thanks Gaylen for reminding me of that!
Some photos of the cardigan in action ~
Conclusion ~
This cardigan will be perfect for the cold weather. It works with my leggings, looks stylish and Chico's Chic. Yeah, this is my new buzzword to describe my work wardrobe. So even though this was my last sew of the Christmas Break, I'm featuring it on the blog first. In an amazing coincidence, Shams interlined her new Minoru jacket with the same fabric I used for my cardi. I guess this is what happens when different sewists collect the same fabric! However, both pieces will be used to keep us warm.
I made five items during the Christmas Break. They will be appearing here soon, so stay tuned. Finally this was also one of the last garments we photographed on Sunday and as usual I was starting to get a little goofy by that time.
So here are a couple of those pictures ~
...as always more later!
Someone wrote me a note and said that they would love to go fabric shopping with me because I pick such great fabrics. That I see things in fabric that they are unable to see! Honestly I think that's because I LOVE Fabric!
I know some sewists collect patterns...loads and loads of patterns...because it fuels their imaginations and takes them where they need to be to get a garment made. Other sewists are really into technique and proficiency...the how and why or technical ways are what really gives them a thrill when they are sewing. Me it's always the fabric first. Fabric and design are what move me to sew.
There is no way that I would own the collection of fabric that I do if I didn't love it so. I hoard nothing else in my life. When I had to give away my me-mades, it hurt, but I barely felt a sting when I pulled 12 boxes of unworn shoes out of my closet and added them to the donation pile.
Now while I love fabric, I don't like sewing with ALL types of fabrics. I definitely have a list of fabrics I just don't mess with anymore and greatly admire the sewists who do. Anything chiffon ~ poly or silk ~ is not being made into a garment by me! *LOL* I don't mess with cheap and shiny ~ not worth my precious time! I like a woven silk better than a flowy/slippery/sitherly silk anyday! Just say no to peachskin! I love Jesus and my language when sewing peachskin would send me straight to hell any day!
Straight up satin is iffy for me ~ not because it doesn't sew well ~ okay take that back it can be a pain in the tuckus to get straight pucker-free seams. But garments made from satin tend to have a cheapish look to them I'm trying to avoid. Slinky knits are the devil...they won't come near my cutting table or my sewing machine. I love velvet but I won't go near panne velvet. It's just not worth the trouble.
There are some other fabrics that must be handled with care and attention but I will use them. Gabardine is one because getting that sucker to hold a press takes a lot of patience. Velvet because you have to be gentle with it, use good techniques and take your time. Faux suede and faux leathers make amazing garments but again, take your time and use good techniques. Otherwise, as my fabric collection bears witness to, I will sew a lot of different fabric types.
I love colors and prints. I love plaids and stripes. I love twills and tweeds. I love the drapes and folds of fabric. A good hand can be orgasmic...and the possibilities each new piece brings with it...is like breathe to my creative soul. So for 2016, I will primarily be sewing from the collection. I know I've said this several times in 2015, but I'm honestly having the best time pulling treasures from the shelves. Using some pieces in ways that I hadn't thought of before...
Now of course, there will be new tenants coming to the collection. I was gifted a Visa gift card for Christmas and of course I headed over to Emmaonesock to purchase fabric with it...fabric that I'd been drooling over for days. I won another piece in a Marcy Tilton giveaway, and of course I added a piece or two to my list. However, these purchases will be few and far between in 2016. The siren song of my own collection is calling to me, asking me to use it, begging me to make beautiful garments from it, to challenge myself to think outside the box! So for 2016, I will. I really will!
...as always more later!
