A Pair of Border Print Wide Legged Pants

I've been seeing wide legged border print pants on line at some of the RTW sites I visit...and I lodged the look in the back of my mind. When I received this rayon border print from StyleMaker Fabrics, bought with no garment in mind just because it was pretty, these pants came to mind when I unpacked the fabric.

I made a pair of wide legged pants in 2017 using my TNT pants pattern.  At the time to get the wider legs I wanted I added the extra width by free handing it.  This time I decided I wanted to be more specific about adding the space so I used the pants legs from Simplicity 8389.  

After laying the two pieces together I realized that they would not give me the extra room I wanted so I ended up adding more to the sides by free handing anyway.

Those were the only changes I made to my TNT pattern construction. I know there are several patterns for sale now that you can purchase to make wide legged pants. I'm just hard pressed to refit a new pattern when I know mine works with a few changes.

A few pictures ~

Wearing this with my black Concord t-shirt which I wore with

my first pair of wide legged pants I made 

I plan to add a couple more pairs of wide leg pants to my wardrobe this summer. Because I want easy to wear, comfortable, looks that are age appropriate and simple to throw on in the mornings.

I'm headed to Sew Camp tomorrow so my next posts will be about Sew Camp and traveling to my fabric Disney World - FABRIC MART! I.Can't.Wait!!!

...as always more later!

Pinstriped Montrose Top + Full Legged Pants

I started out making just a pair of pants to wear with my black Cashmerette Concord Tee. Then I realized I had enough fabric left over to make another Montrose top so this is what I ended up making ~

The fabric is a linen/cotton blend that was one of the five pieces I bought from Fabric Mart during Sew Camp. I got four yards of it. I originally purchased it thinking that I would make a flowy waisted shirtdress. Well since I've sworn off waisted shirtdresses, I had to come up with another plan. These garments ended up being my "other plan."

As I stated above the idea for the pants was first. Then came the top, but for this post, I'm going to discuss the top first.

Montrose Top ~
This version is made with the pattern length added back to the pattern pieces and the two-piece gathered back. Also the stripes were manipulated to make it with some black ribbon added to make the black pinstripes pop.

I also changed up the sleeves, cause why not?  I cut the sleeve pattern piece into two pieces.  Primarily because the sleeves were cut from fabric scraps after the pants and top body were cut out.

- I added a 5/8" seam allowance and sewed the sleeve pieces together - 2" down from the sleeve cap.
- Pressed open and then topstitched
- Added the 2" ribbon to the top of the sleeve
- After the top was finished and paired with the pants, I realized that I needed to add more of the black ribbon from the neckline to the bottom of the top to finish the top off.

- Rounded the edges off the end of the ribbons to finish
  

Supplies ~
2" black grosgrain ribbon from Joyce Trimmings
1.5" black grosgrain ribbon from Joyce Trimmings

I really like the black trim on the top. It adds something to the top and the black trim ties it to the bottoms.

The last thing is the darts are a little low on the top.  I didn't notice it in the first version of my Montrose because the lace hid the details. I will change the angle of the darts for the next version - because there will be more of these!

My TNT Pants ~
I'm describing these as full legged because I added some width to the sides of my TNT pants pattern to get a fuller leg but not so full that they are palazzo pants...but they are WIDE! 

I also made a change to my back pants crotch area based upon an alteration that I saw on EricaB's blog here. I've made a few changes to my pants pattern over the years as well as totally abandoning it when I lost the 48 lbs 3 years ago.  As with all things I'm back up 15-20 lbs., depending upon the day, so I'm finding it's easier to alter my TNT pants pattern again. 

Also in all honesty, the other alterations I'd made from various other sources, weren't working. Maybe I was misinterpreting the alterations...maybe it wasn't the right alteration for me...but since I'm always trying to improve my craft, I thought I would try Erica's alteration. 

The final changes to these is I added the same ribbon from the top's sleeve hems, down the sides of the pants.  Using a 2" ribbon with 1/2" seams on both sides so that I was adding an inch to both sides of the pants.

I took 1" of width out of the inner legs from 10" below the crotch because they were a little wider than I wanted them to be.  The waistline is finished with the Japanese elastic I like and found at Pacific Trimmings, as well as, Shams brought me some back from her trip to Japan. Sewing friends are the best!

Finally, when I started constructing the two pieces I thought they would work well together but I look like I'm wearing pjs when the two pieces are together.  So, they will be worn separately.

A few pictures ~

Wearability Factor ~
After these were made, I was wondering if I would actually wear the wide legged pants in the heat. However, we got a couple of days of warm weather that wasn't hot, humid and stifling. This was a great outfit to wear then. The back crotch alteration worked like it was supposed to and my pants cover my backside when I sit down now.  The pants were comfortable and I got a couple of compliments on them! 

I'm glad that I made both pieces. Both will get some wear this summer! I'm on a tear though and want to add a few more pairs of pants to my summer wardrobe...so look for more of them on the blog soon.

...as always more later!





  

A Pair of Black Pants

As you know I wear a lot of jeans and leggings to work now. Also, my TNT pants pattern wasn't working after I lost 45 lbs. Well that was three years ago and in the last year I've gained back 15-20 lbs depending on what week it is. Before we get into a weight loss/gain discussion, I really just want to talk about the pants.

One of the byproducts of gaining some weight back is that my original TNT pants pattern now fits. Not the altered one that I was using when I started to lose weight (and was at my heaviest) but one of the in-between stage pants patterns - yes, that's how many times I've altered that pattern!

Anyway, when I made the Rivermont Top, I cut a pair of my TNT pants from the black ponte too. My goal was to wear the two pieces together but I ran out of time for the blog post for the Curvy Sewing Collective. However, a black pair of pants is always a good thing, so I finished them this weekend.

Materials ~
black ponte from Metro Textiles
Dritz pull elastic (I found some at SIL Threads)
black rayon seam tape

I have no new construction techniques info to add because I've made these pants too many times to count!

So here are some pictures of the pants in action worn with some of my recent makes ~

With my Vogue 8772 bow-tie blouse

With my Rivermont Top

and with a yet to be blogged top ~

Conclusion ~
I'm glad I added this pair of pants to my closet. When I need to be just a little dresser, these will work. Also I'm so happy to have my TNT pants pattern back!

The girls were here this afternoon with their Mother while she took these pics...so here is a picture of me with Miss Aleena and Miss Samantha!

...as always more later!

Wide Legged Challis Pants + A Concord Tee

I've wanted a pair of wide legged challis pants for quite some time. Because every once in awhile during the summer, I want to wear a pair of pants. In my former life, I would make a pair of linen pants every summer but they seem a little too formal for where I am now, well the way I use to make them. I've had so many clothing needs since changing jobs that I'm just getting around to thinking about pants.

Now I don't wear a lot of pants in the summer. Just every once in awhile I wake up and don't want to wear a dress or skirt and jeans just don't cut it for me when it's really hot.

Materials ~
The pattern is my TNT pants pattern. I've made some adjustments to my pants pattern and I've got a muslin made but nothing wearable yet. However, I thought I would start with it this time because I'm not looking for a fitted garment.

The fabric is a rayon challis from Fabric Mart purchased for these pants. The elastic is the remaining bit of Dritz Stretch elastic that I've been hoarding since it's no longer being made.

Construction ~
I knew that I only wanted the extra width in the leg area so I added width from the hip area down on my pattern.  I freehanded the addition of the extra space, adding it to both the front and back pattern pieces. Since they were going to be wide I knew I didn't have to worry about being precise and just went for it.

Now this is definitely a don't do as I do moment! *LOL* You should measure and add the proper amount to both sides.  However, this worked for me since I was only trying to get a quickie pair of pants.

The legs were serge finished and construction was quick.  I've made this pattern quite a few times now so there were no issues. After a quick try on to make sure the legs were wide enough, I added the elastic to the waistline.

Then the pants were tried on for hem length. Now while I know that I should hem them a little higher I really like the extra length on these especially with heels.

I'm wearing them with my black concord t-shirt from this post. I decided to just remove the ruffle and hem it especially since it works so well with these pants. I'm loving this look because its just what I wanted...relaxed...comfortable and casual...yet sophisticated.

A few more pictures ~

However, I do need to adjust the waistline so that I can make these as a pair of elastic waist pants...but that's for another day!

If you're interested in making a pair of your own...this pattern is on my "to buy" list...

...or a pattern for a pair in a knit fabric...

Next up on the cutting table is The Marilyn Dress from StyleArc Patterns using a Telio Denim Border Print.

Parting Shot ~

...as always more later!

Butterick 6142 - The Pants

I need new pants. It's getting colder here on the East Coast and the pants I presently own are too big. I also want a skinnier leg pant than I've presently been wearing.  The worse thing a "fat girl" can do is wear too big clothing and 80% of my wardrobe is too big now.

So during my hiatus from the blog, I decided to try and alter a new pants pattern. I chose Butterick 6142 as the pants pattern for two reasons. One for the elastic waist and the slimmer legs of the pants and two because it will work in a ponte.

Extensive alterations to the pants pattern to make it fit my new measurements means I did a lot of pattern work. However, the pattern did have an interesting alteration line on the pants pattern front ~ a crotch alteration line.  Is this a new thing?  I haven't used a new pants pattern in quite some time and was pleasantly thrilled at finding the line on the pattern piece.  Even though it was there I didn't use it to make my changes, though I may in the future.

Instead I used the lengthen/shorten line in the abdomen area of the pants front and back to adjust the crotch line to match the one on my TNT pants.  I figured that and the actual pants length of each leg are the only things that still work for me.

Here are my alterations ~
My daughter and I took new measurements at the beginnning of the year since along with the weight loss there have been some inches lost too. I used those as the basis for the flat pattern measurements.

Because I didn't know where to actually start, I did make the alterations so that they would fit the waistline and butt measurement of my current pants pattern. Hey I needed to start somewhere and I did end up with a wearable muslin pair of pants. I know don't say it...

So the alterations first ~

1. The first and easiest was to add length to the front and back pattern pieces. I added it at the shorten/lengthen line that appears farther down the pants leg.

2. The second alteration was to use the crotch curve from my TNT pants pattern front & back pieces.

3.  Then I had to determine how wide to make the back and front pieces. Honestly I got a little confused here. See I know what my new measurements are - I wrote them down and posted them to my bulletin board.  But something in my brain would just not let me make a pattern piece that small. In my twisted mind, I kept thinking at least I could cut/serge away whatever fabric was too big...IF it was too big! You know I had to serge some additional fabric off the front and back, right! *LOL*

4.  The front and back pattern pieces were altered to reflect that change. I also took a wedge out of the pants front curve. Ummm, yeah if you don't have extra fat there, the crotch curve droops.  See all that extra fabric there...fine for a wearable muslin pair but not for my "real" pants.

5.  Final alteration was to add an inch to the center back merging into nothing into the side seam. The pants dipped a little low in the center back when I stood and sat.

I'm glad I made a wearable muslin because after wearing them I've determined that I have a few more changes to make to my pattern.

• When I made the original pants pattern alterations, I didn't take into consideration that the waistband had a large foldover for the elastic insertion or that I used up a good 2" with my pulled elastic application. So the pants fit best when I turned the waistband down once and wore them that way. I've since made that change to my pattern piece.
• I also had an extra amount of fabric in the front equal to the wedge that I removed from the pattern - so my next pair should work & fit better.
• I was going to cut off some of the length that I added to the pattern legs but the length is perfect. They work well with my sneakers which I wear to walk to work and my wedges or a heeled shoe.

Sewing Observations ~
It's been awhile (at least a decade) since I used anything other than my TNT pants pattern to make a pair of pants.  So I have my own construction order that I use, as well as, my own elastic application.  Hey what ain't broke didn't need fixing especially since my goal was to get clothes to wear - not try out a lot of techniques.

So the way this pattern has you attach the elastic was totally new to me. First there's a pattern piece to tell you how much elastic to cut. As an aside after I made the pants, I've decided that guide is gold! It's so awesome! 

I cut my 1" elastic using the guide and followed the pattern instructions to sew it into a circle.

Then I pinned it to the edge of the pants waistline at the four points.  You had to stretch the elastic to sew it to the edge.  

Finally, you fold it over and use the same stretch technique to encase the elastic.  Here's a pic of the finished waistline.

I'm sure that this is not a new technique. However, I was thrilled with the outcome because you know that I was bugging since Dritz discontinued the elastic I'd used for the last decade in my pants. This technique is just so friggin' cool!

The seams were primarily sewn using my serger ONLY after I stitched the pants together using my sewing machine and checked the fit on my body.

Some more pictures ~ 

This is how I wore the pants last January...

Pants with turtleneck and the artsy vest.

Back view

My next version of these pants were made in a woven here.  There will be more of these pants sewn especially since I pulled the wearable muslin pants out and wore them today. The look of them fit really well in my new reality. Now to go through the fabric collection and pick some more ponte out to make a well-fitted pair of pants. They will go so well with my new Butterick 5678 tunic!

...as always more later!

The Lisette Top 'n my TNT pants

These pieces were the result of a dream. Honestly! Last Thursday I'd been sewing for three days straight and I was moving very slowly that morning. My daughter came by to check on me and after she left to run an errand, I went and took a nap.

I woke up with this look burning into my brain because the thought of it was just so enticing. I don't usually sew pants in spring/summer but a pair of black pants is a good thing - no matter the season. This is my third Lisette top. I am posting these out of order because I love this pattern. Can I say that again - Love.this.pattern! I've been looking for a great top and this one fits the bill for me!

Construction ~
To get the eyelet design evenly at the hemline on all of the pieces, I laid them on the border lining up the marked hemline on the pattern pieces.

I sewed them from the hemline up to the underarm sleeve to insure that the hemline matched up. Any extra pieces (seam overlap) were cut off to clean finish the seam.

On the other versions of this top, I didn't like how the pattern suggested finishing the neckline. For the fruit version, I added binding per the pattern suggestion but I kept thinking that a lined version would be awesome. 

I made a back lining/yoke pattern piece for this version and cut it & the front yoke from a black cotton batiste. I sewed this to the neckline, flipped it in, edgestitched it, and stitched the front facing in the ditch. The armhole facing was basted at both sides and the center back was handstitched to the zipper tape.

Originally I also cut the sleeves and the front yoke on the border. I assembled everything and ended up with this hot mess.

Not exactly what I'd seen in my dream. I was also having some challenges with the pants. I'd slimmed the front and back pattern pieces down by an inch on each side. Cut the pattern pieces on the cross wise grain with the stretch running around my body...but the pants were also perplexing me. I still need to make another alteration to the body of the pants. Remove some length from the front and add some to the back. 

At this point I'd been sewing for 11 hours and was disgusted...totally and utterly disgusted. I posted this pic to Instagram turned everything off and went to bed.

The next morning I recut the sleeves from leftover solid black fabric and ripped the embroidered ones out of the top. I'm so thrilled that I bought so much of this fabric because the excess allowed me to recut the sleeves and the yoke.

I jimmed the pants - started the elastic about an inch lower on the front and right at the back and finished the pants. I will need to make more adjustments to the pants pattern but the outfit was finished.

Here are a few pics of the finished outfit ~

I have included a back shot to show you that I've got the pants to fit my backside which is new for me...*sigh* but I have quite a few wrinkles down the legs. Some is fabric related and some are fitting challenges that I need to address.

I could have omitted this picture but since my sewing this year is all about fitting my new body, I want to be transparent about how I'm working through my challenges.

Otherwise, the final outfit looks like how I dreamt it and I'm going to wear it. I was halfway through sewing this top when I realized that I made a similar one back in 2007...so I guess I really like this style! 

The second version of the Lisette Top is up next...

...as always more later!