OOP McCalls 6117

This will be the beginning of a series of new summer dresses.  This year instead of planning and going on a trip, I opted to take 4 weeks off.  One for every month this summer - one in June, one in July, one in August and one in September. I pledged that I would sew for some of those days.  During the last 2 vacations, I've made 7 new dresses.

My daily schedule was to wake up and sew, stop to cook and eat dinner and then read the evening away.  For the June week - I fiddled around with my Cashmerette t-shirt dress pattern and ended up with three very different t-shirt dresses.  They have yet to be photographed.  But that week I did pattern fittings, handled the fabric, cut and sewed the dresses.  That's why there were only three completed.

For the July vacation, I cut out six garments the week before I went on vacation. It made all the difference in the world.  I was able to just sew a dress from start to finish.  Well I did that with 2 dresses.  The third dress was a little more involved and took 2 days to finish.

Anyway, this post is about the first dress that I completed during the July break.  This out of print McCalls 6117. It was originally distributed in 2010 so I'm reaching back in my pattern stash.  

However, I wanted to make this dress because July has been hot as hades here.  I wanted a pretty, loose fitting dress that was comfortable to wear to work when the temps were in the 90s+.  This pattern achieved that look.

Some details:

Pattern -

McCalls 6117 in a size 24W because this is a very slim fitting straight dress. 

Fabric -

Purchased from fabric dot com back before they went out of business.  Actually have six yards of this fabric because at one point it was going to be a layered maxi dress. Y'all know those dresses were fabric hogs!

Notions -

1 - 22" invisible zipper

1 yard blue satin ribbon

4 beads

26" of 3/8" elastic

Pattern Alterations & Construction:

Pattern alterations needed to be made because  The finished hip measurement was my measurement. The dress needed some wearing ease.  To get it:

• I added 1" to the front side seam blending from below the bust dart down to the hemline.
• A pivot and slide was done to the dress front piece to give me an additional 1.5" at the hipline.
• One inch was added to the dress back side seam.
• One inch was added to the center back of the dress - blending from the waistline down.

My fabric was a 3 yard piece so the very wide sleeve pattern piece did not fit on the fabric.  No matter how I tetris'd it.  I ended up slimming the pattern piece down 2-3" inches on both sides to make it work. I even consulted the cutting guide, which I rarely do, before folding the pattern piece on the sides to make the sleeve work. So, my finished sleeves are not as voluminous as the pattern's photos are.

The other change I made was to add a center back invisible zipper.  While the pattern seems to be wide enough to slip over your head, I'm 67 years old. I like stepping into dresses not battling for my life trying to get it on over my head.

The back facing was also changed from a cut on fold to 2 single pieces that I added a 5/8" seam allowance at the back center seam.

Finally, I hand hemmed the dress because I just didn't want that line of stitching to ruin the dress' finish.

Some photos of the finished dress...

(look at those wrinkles from sitting on the train!)

I cut my hair a little shorter than normal this summer.

This was a simple sew. I was able to finish it in a couple of hours. The blue satin ribbon and beads were added after I finished the dress.  I tried it on and it kept slipping past my bra strap.  So, I added the blue ribbon at the neckline and tied a bow.  Problem solved.

Wearability Report - 

Wearing it all day, I fiddled with the dress constantly pulling on the shoulder seams to cover my bra straps. That was annoying.  The linen also grew with my body warmth so it appeared looser than it did when I initially tried it on. I wanted to make at least one more version of this dress, now I'm not so sure. I have loads of patterns that can be used instead.  I will wear it again - maybe add some bra strap holders that will keep my bra straps in place.

My work colleague took these photos.  I will be at work with her three more days so more finished dresses are coming.

...as always more later!

If Fuzzy Wuzzy was a Bear

I saw this fabric on StyleMaker's site and all I could think was what a fun and cozy vest this would be over a turtleneck.

Cozy Checkered Teddy Sherpa

Supplies ~

OOP pattern McCalls 7481 - I've used this pattern several times over the years with each make being very different from the others.

1.5 yards of Checkered Cozy Teddy Sherpa Fleece (also in another color)

2 yards of polyester printed lining from Fabric Mart (deep stash)

Snaps purchased from SIL Threads (yet to be sewn on the vest)

I named this the Fuzzy Wuzzy Bear Vest because I knew it would not be a slim look on me. But I wasn't going for slim. I was going for warm and comfortable and this vest fits the bill.

A couple of things:

As expected this was a "bear" to cut out.  I had to make sure that all the pattern pieces were laying in the same direction.  I didn't want the checkers to have a variation of color in different sections of the vest.

Then there were all of the fleece cuttings flying around as I cut the pieces out. I ended up serging the edges of the pieces, even though I lined the vest, to prevent the cuttings from being everywhere.  I also had to clean my serger as I serged each piece because the cuttings were everyplace.  It was a flurry of blue sherpa fleece in every crevice.

I chose a pattern that had some interest to it but not a lot of pieces.  I'd altered this pattern back in February 2019 to include in-seam pockets in a vest. That vest inspired this one...and that's where this project went left!

There were no instructions for this vest so I went with what I remembered.  Constructing the shell wasn't a project.  I made the lining from the pattern pieces without the pockets.  Then I sewed the lining to the vest. I clipped the curves and the armholes. Went to turn the vest and it wouldn't turn. Y'all I thought I would lose my mind because no matter what I did, it wouldn't turn.  

Lining sewn to the vest

Inside shell of the vest

I had to unpick the hem and the armholes sleeves to flip the lining in.  Then because I couldn't figure out how to machine sew it together (even after consulting my internet friend, Google) I ended up handstitching the lining in.  Yes, I handstitched the hemline, and each armhole.  Luckily the furry sherpa hid my hand stitching. Then since I didn't edge stitch the lining to the sherpa fabric, I use long stitches to tuck the lining into the vest. That took 4.5 hours of watching Bridgerton Season 3, to rip and then hand stitch the vest back together.  BUT, it worked!

...and that's why the snaps purchased for the vest weren't sewn on the vest before I wore it out in public...because traumatized from all that handstitching! 😉

So here is the vest in all it's glory...

Vest worn with vintage Sarah Coventry broach

My friend makes me laugh every time she takes pics

The inside of the vest

The finished vest looks just how I imagined it would when I saw the fabric on StyleMaker's website. It's been really cold here lately, like colder than Alaska cold, so this was perfect the day I wore it to work since it was 22 degrees outside!  

This isn't the only garment I made during my holiday break, there's more coming!  Honestly it's been so dayum cold and windy, acting like we live in Antarctica, that I haven't been pressed about pictures.  Also, after these garments, I stopped sewing for a minute. I was living in cashmere sweaters and sweatshirt layers...not much me made to keep me warm against the artic temps.

So, I still have more share.  We did take more photos on another day of another pair of pants I made.  Will share that soon.  The temperatures have finally normalized and I have a few days off so maybe I will get some more sewing in.

...as always more later!

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

End of 2025 Update

My update consists of three things - my health, sewing, and books I've read this year.  Let's get into it.

My health:

First can I say get you a primary care physician who specializes in aging adults.  I changed to one three years ago and it was the best decision I've ever made. She is a Black, female doctor, who doesn't allow me to make excuses.  She's worked with me to insure that my diabetes, hypertension and vitamin D deficiency is under control. We're still working on my sugar addiction but I can proudly say I haven't had a Mountain Dew in 15 months.  Y'all that's huge because I use to believe that was the hill I was going to die on.  Anyway, all of my health markers are not only in range but low.  She fought the insurance company to get me on Ozempic for my diabetes and not only is that now within range but I've also lost 50 lbs.

Losing 50 lbs was huge. I was of the mindset that gaining weight as I got older was a given.  My PCP said not so fast.  I'm forever grateful for her and for changing my mindset. Moving around is easier now, my joints no longer ache in the cold and it's even changed my eating habits.

Sewing:

With losing weight came changes in my sewing.  First anything I made from 2015-2019 now fit and fit well.  Since I moved in the middle of the pandemic, all those clothes moved with me with very little given away. I essentially had 2 wardrobes in my closet - pre-Covid and post-Covid.  The garments made in 2021-2024 are now too big for me.  Some will be altered and some have been packed away. I need to stay this weight for 2-3 years before I give those away!

This also opened up new avenues of sewing for me. Y'all know I love a TNT pattern and I was so prolific with my sewing during 2015-2020 that I'm rewinding it back and using some of those patterns again.

Here's what I made in 2025.  Let's start with blogged items first.

The Water Lilies Mysostis Dress - updated

While this wasn't a new sew, I did add ties to make it wearable now.  I just couldn't give this dress up.

A Floral Vogue 9299

I started this in late December 2024 but finished it in July of this year.  It was part of my travel wardrobe to the Cape.

I made several Vogue 2947's - a tunic (also part of my vacation wardrobe) and 2 dresses:

And this dress which was the more successful fit out of the two dresses...

Another dress from 2019 - New Look 6340

An Inspired by dress made from the Myosotis bodice and the Style Arc Nova tiers:

This Myosotis Dress made in a smaller size was my favorite dress/make of 2025.

An adventure that started in 2024 and ended in 2025 was this shirt.

I've been trying to finish up UFOs that have been hanging out in my sewing space.  This vest was an oldie that needed to be completed.

My final sew for 2026 - was a Style Arc Hope that I made using eveningwear fabrics.

There were several pieces sewn that haven't made it to the blog yet.

• A maxidress that I finished, tried on and realized it was too big.  So it needs to be ripped apart and resewn. That is a spring/summer project.
• A cardigan & pair of black denim trousers.
• I started a jellyroll Myosotis in the spring that I lost interest in.  Hope to pick it up again come spring/summer.

I bought hundreds of yards of fabric in the last half of the year.  My sewjo came home and it needed new raw material. I definitely went overboard so I'm not buying fabric for a minute.

Also, I'm sewing during the Holiday break.  I've completed a UFO set that was hanging out. I've updated a top. Worked on a new vest that has worked my last nerve and hopefully another pair of denim trousers will be completed.  They will probably come to the blog this month.

Reading:

I read 249 books this year beating my goal of 225. Reading is the balm to my soul. I start every day reading, read during my commute to and from work, sometimes during lunch at work (especially if the book is good!) and when I come home in the evenings. My TV watching time has greatly diminished because I'd rather curl up on my couch and read.

(ignore that graphic - it includes a DNF book)

Here are my top 15 books of 2025:

1. Reformatory by Tananarive Due
2. All the Sinners Bleed by SA Cosby
3. King of Ashes by SA Cosby
4. Grown by Tiffany Jackson
5. Memphis by Alexandra House
6. Cutthroat by Octavia Grant
7. Call Me Mrs. Taylor by Shae Sanders
8. A Sky Full of Love by Lorna Lewis
9. Dominion by Adele Citchens
10. An Imperfect Truth by Leigh Carron
11. Plus Size Player by Danielle Allen
12. Maybe in This Lifetime by Asia Monique
13. The Love Syllabus by Lauren Lacey 
14. Bitter & Sweet by Rhonda McKnight
15. The Last Man on Earth by Shae Sanders

I will be reading into 2026.  Already completed my first 2 novels for the year.

Finally...

Completed garment posts will be up next.  Thanks for hanging with me in 2025 especially since I've been blogging and sewing less.  The fact that you're still here thrills me to no end!

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

...as always, more later!

Wardrobe Sewing 2025

Remember when we use to plan and sew wardrobes?  How we'd plan, choose fabrics and patterns to get a grouping of 6, 8 or 10 pieces that would mix and match to form 10, 20 or more different looks? I was and still am a believer in wardrobe sewing.  Why am I bringing this up now?

Well over the Thanksgiving Break, I finally started the jean trousers I've been wanting.  I used a light to mid-weight denim from the collection.  As I was working on it, some rayon challis that was purchased on sale from Fabric Mart arrived and one piece went so well with the trousers.  Then I realized a sweater knit I'd also bought recently worked with the trousers.  There was also enough fabric left over from the black denim to make a vest and I realized I had enough to sew a wardrobe grouping.

Next I realized that I had some pieces in my closet that I've already made that would round this grouping out nicely.

Here are the pieces I want to make:

1. Black denim trousers from my TNT pants pattern that now fits again.  Here are some trousers I've made in the past. This link reminds me that I haven't made a new pair of pants since 2019! Wow!

2. Black print polyester sweater knit for a cardigan made from Burda 8869.  This is also a TNT pattern used multiple times before I switched to a different cardigan pattern. Only a couple of these remain in my closet.

3. Black denim vest, same fabric as the trousers, from OOP Vogue 7125

4. Cream/Black Paisley border print blouse from OOP Vogue 8772.  I've also used this pattern before. All three of these blouses/shirts are still in my closet.

Here are the coordinating garments in my closet:

White Poets Shirt made in 2018 

A knock off JJill Vest made in 2010

A sleeveless black ponte Cashmerette Pembroke that I only seem to only have photos of under other garments.  Though I need to make a full length sleeve version soon.

Of course, when looking for these blog posts I found several more black print tops and shirts that will also work with the four new pieces. I also own several pairs of RTW jeans (both skinny and straight leg) that will mix and match with the new pieces.

I've started working on the new garments over Thanksgiving weekend so will have finished pieces to share soon.

...as always more later!

Thoughts While Sewing - Fall/Winter 2025

I've written a number of these posts over the years on this subject.

I love these words from a December 2015 post:

I love the space I occupy when I'm knee deep into a sewing vacay.  I love how my mind starts to clear out the driftwood of life - those concerns that overburden us - and makes way for the soul cleansing that spending time being creative brings me.

Lately I've had similar thoughts now that I've started sewing again.

• I'm making way more mistakes now than I have in a long time.  One is definitely fitting challenges. My body has changed on me yet again. My mind is working to keep up and not doing a very good job. I still see myself as heavier than I actually am.
• Recently pulled a pattern and almost rejected it because the finished hip width was 53 inches. I thought too much work to add 12 inches. Measured myself and almost passed out. I only needed to add 3 inches and that was for ease. So yes, I'm using the pattern.
• I hate cutting out interfacing.  I don't know why but it's right up there with cutting out fabric. Not a favorite.
• My coworker showed me a cartoon from Reddit about a man using his wife sewing shears.  She innocently asked me if I had two pairs of scissors, too?  I laughed so hard and told her basically yes.  But in actuality I probably own 10 pairs of scissors that I use for various functions. She was shocked.  I had to use my painter & paintbrushes/paints analogy for her to get it.
• I'm sewing so I've been buying more fabric.  Why is that?  It's not like I don't have PLENTY of raw materials to use already! But fabric's siren song has been calling to me and I've been answering.
• I'm finally taking my time. Yes, I need some new pieces BUT I really want to enjoy this sewing journey. I'm making samples. I'm not forcing myself to sew. If I want to, good.  If I'm not feeling it, that's fine too.  I don't want to scare my sewjo away.. I like having that part of myself back.
• I'm concerned about how the tariffs are going to affect sewists abilities to purchase items we need to sew.  So much is made overseas or in Mexico. Shop after shop were issuing tariff updates and it worries me because how will new sewists get the materials they need. Or even someone who is sewing because it's cheaper than purchasing new.  Not all sewists shop at Walmart & Target. 
• Even after a trip to Lancaster, PA where everything is cheaper than in the metropolitan area where I live, the prices have gone up.  Buttons that I purchased in bags of a dozen use to be 98 cents are now $1.39 or higher. 
• Which brings me to my sewing spaces.  Because I turned my loft into sewing storage, I realized after I visited it the other day, that I own a lot of everything.  Trim, zippers, bias bindings, elastics, thread, zippers, patterns...I've collected them all.  Yes, they are nicely stored away but there is a lot of it.
• I want to make a couple vests for fall.  I've gathered a variety of patterns and comprised a list of fabrics I want to use.  This should be fun.  I've made several vests over the years, and a couple are still in my wardrobe. 
• I also want to make lounge wear for this fall/winter. I get cold very easily, and even though I dislike wearing pants at home, I want to make some lounge wear with oversized tops and wide leg pants.  I have plenty of patterns and just added some cozy wear fabric to the collection after a recent trip to Lancaster, PA.

We're coming into that time of the year where we can just stay inside and chill. I'm looking forward to the upcoming months because I'm sewing again and I have time off from work that I can use to create.  While I don't need much, I do want some new things, and to spread my creative wings so I'm going to sew.  

I am taking it back to a lot of what I've previously made, reusing patterns that have already been fitted with some fabric from the collection and some new pieces. Not many new patterns interest me these days.  Either I already own something like it or it doesn't fit my lifestyle now.  All that to say, I'm not sewing a lot of trends. I want this to be a season of using what I have especially since I've spent decades accumulating it!

As we approach Thanksgiving week, I'm off for most of the week and will be creating, so hopefully more to share with you soon!  To everyone who celebrates this holiday, I hope you have a wonderful time with friends & family, eat a lot of good food, and enjoy this time.

photo credit: https://www.farmersalmanac.com/when-is-thanksgiving-day

 

...as always more later!

An Elegant Style Arc Hope

I needed a dress for a Black-tie event and my preference is still classy, elegant and a touch of drama.  I wanted the fabric to do the work with a minimal silhouette. BUT I didn't want overtly sexy or anything uncomfortable and no sequins. I don't have time to deal with sequin sewing and clean up.

I went through a lot of silhouettes and possibilities and then decide to "upgrade" a pattern that I loved in my everyday life.  Also, I knew no one else would be wearing my dress.  So, I started with one of my favorite patterns, the Style Arc Hope Extension maxi dress.

It's an easy sew using complicated/fussy fabrics.

Supplies ~

2 yards of an appliqued mesh fabric purchased from Chic Fabrics in NYC

3 yards of 4ply black silk crepe from the collection via Fabric Mart (this was deep stash because it had an old Fabric Mart label on it)

2.5 yards of black rayon bemberg purchased from NY Elegant Fabrics

Less than one yard of 5/8" black elastic purchased from Cedar Grove Lane Trims in Lancaster, PA

2 yards of rayon seam binding from my trims collection

Construction ~

There was no difference in the construction sequence just added steps to account for the special fabrics.

o  Every piece except for the sleeves were cut out twice.

o  The mesh piece was basted to the front and back pieces before serge finishing the edges

o  The front skirt was cut on the fold. While the back skirt pieces were cut with a center back seam.

o  All basting was done with a single thread.

o  The hem of the dress was stitched with a single thread so no stitches would show on the dress front.

o  The lining fabric was cut 1" shorter than the main fabric and machine hemmed.

o  I added the bias binding the same way as I did for my other versions.

o  A look at the back and front of the bodice with the sleeves added.

Some photos of the finished dress

At the event...

Home afterwards in my comfy slides

My daughter and me

Conclusion ~

I know it's unusual to take a regular dress pattern and upscale it for eveningwear.  But after looking at several eveningwear patterns and online photos, I knew I wanted something that was more me.  

-  I didn't want sequins cause they're a bitch to sew and clean up.  

-  I didn't want anything tight or low cut.

-  I did want something classy and elegant with a touch of drama.

-  I did want to highlight my weight loss but not in an overbearing (to me) way.

-  I also wanted something simple to sew.  Letting the fabrics and silhouette speak.

I think my boho chic evening gown works and it elevated a pattern that I love.  I did learn that I want to make a sequin skirt (already own the fabric) and a silk blouse to wear as an eveningwear outfit, and a slimmer silhouette made from an embroidered mesh and more silk crepe I already own.  I have several nieces and nephews coming of marriage age and I want to be ready with a wardrobe I already have instead of sewing in a rush.

Parting Shot ~

How my evening ended, me in bed with a bowl of spaghetti. Why are you always hungry after one of these events?

I'm off most of Thanksgiving week and I'm not the cook, so I plan on sewing most of that week. The urge to create is strong so I'm going with it!  More fall/winter garments are coming.

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

...as always more later!