A Pair of Pants...

I will admit that I'm overly sensitive to the elastic waist vs. fly front pants debate.  I truly understand that quite a few people associate elastic waist pants with ill-fitting, polyester pants that an older woman wears.  That if you are truly hip, cool and fashionable, you will be using a great fly front technique or some low risers on a funky pair of pants.

However, I'm soooooo past funky and low rise!  I'm soooooo much more into classic and elegant but more than that I'm into comfort.  And I truly believe that you can have a well-fitted pair of pants with an interesting elastic waist treatment.   Plus I honestly hate the way a fly front looks on my abundant abdomen.  This is me...and now that I've spent two paragraphs and alot of words justifying my point of view...here is my latest garment:

These pants are worn with a RTW twinset.  I have a load of these (RTW & "made by me" twinsets) in my wardrobe because they make dressing easy on cold wintery mornings.  Add a pair of pants or a skirt, a great necklace and I'm out the door.

Some stats:

Pattern:
TNT pants pattern

Fabric:
100% worsted wool purchased from Fabric Mart at least 5 years ago

Notions:
charcoal ambiance lining purchased from fabric.com
elastic
rayon seam binding

This pair of pants is an experiment in using a new lining technique.  Normally I've inserted a lining as two separate pairs of pants joined together at the waistline and I've experienced a lot of lining failure in the thigh area. I think due to the friction between the two fabrics moving/working against each other.  In an effort to address this issue, I've decided to sew the fashion fabric and lining together as one piece.  I discussed the challenge in this blog post and received some very interesting suggestions along with some requests to provide pictures of my sewing process.

Now if you're strictly a fly front girl, I totally understand you leaving now...plus how will I ever know!  *LOL* 

Jane commented:
"Carolyn, I learned a neat way of lining/underling pants. Cut the lining 5/8" larger on all the vertical seams and keep the regular size on the curved ones. Sew the vertical seams right sides together with the fashion fabric using a 1/4" seam and turn. The lining wraps around the fashion fabric pieces forming a mock hong kong finish. Then serge all the curved edges. I can hem to this underling and pressing in the crease is a snap as the lining and fashion fabric are treated as one. I won't do my wool pants any other way"

and Julie Culshaw added:
"do a search on the Threads website for a technique called "flat-lining". It is a way to line each piece of the pants, but it finishes the raw edges at the same time. I believe the only seam left to be seen is the crotch curve. A good technique that doesn't compromise the fit."
*BTW Julie, it's good to hear from you!  Glad you're still around and I miss your fabric store more than you know!!!!*

So I used the flat-lining technique to finish this pair of pants.  This technique can be found in Threads Issue #48, page 58 (thank you Threads Archive DVD for making this easy to find and use!) 

I flat lined the side seams and the inner thigh seams

and serge finished the crotch seams.

I added elastic and one of my labels to the back of the pants so that I would be able to tell the front from the back of the pants when dressing...and was extremely nervous during the entire process.  But as you can see from above there was no need because this technique worked perfectly.

I was also able to hand stitch the hems to the lining without seeing any of the stitching on the fashion fabric.  Love this!  Finally, by adding the lining to the fashion fabric and sewing it as one piece, the pants have a heavier feel to them...hopefully this will help with the warmth factor too!

talking to Danny who kept waving at me

while we were taking pictures!

There will be more pants making going on during the next couple of months because my existing pants either need to be repaired or retired and I wear pants more often in the winter than I do in the other seasons. 

In the process of moving onto the next piece to sew, I've changed up the order.  The BurdaStyle top is on hold because I'm not sure it will work.  It needs a little more thought.  Instead I've decided to work on the jacket and pants from the Pinstripe Follies Collection.  Now that these pants are working, I really got excited about making some of these pieces...but first a quick skirt. 

I don't make a lot of skirts anymore...probably because I already have quite a few in my closet but this particular piece of fabric is calling my name so that's what's up next. 

...as always, more later!

Notes from my Sewing Machine

Well it's the first day of a new year and I'm right where I want to be...in front of my sewing machine!   I'm sure to some people that would be strange but not to us right?!  In front of our sewing machines is where we create and make dreams come true, where we beautify not only our bodies but our living spaces and where we turn fabric into things only dreamed of...*sigh*

Yes, I'm getting poetic as I sit in front of my machine...*LOL*  So here are a few more thoughts!

First I would like to thank everyone who commented on the "I'm Grateful!" post!  All of your comments were appreciated especially since I was very hesitant about posting those thoughts.  And to Paula...I do remember you from the PR NYC Shopping Day and it was a pleasure to meet you! :)

Have you seen the new issue of Threads magazine (Jan/Feb 2011)?  I swear they are reading my blog and the blogs of my fellow sewists because two of their recent articles are called, "Slow Sewing" and "Channel Your Creative Energy".  And then there is the article called "Piggyback Pockets" which emphasizes a pocket design that is on one of the jacket patterns I want to use for my 12 Jackets in a Year Challenge.  I guess there's just a synergy in the sewing world right now.  We ALL are striving to be the best sewists that we can...and Threads is doing their part to help us along.

So what's up with the fact that the Big 4 pattern companies can't manage to get their websites to coincide with the delivery of the books & patterns to the stores?  You would think that people wouldn't have to take their cell phones to the stores to take pictures of the new offerings to share?  Or is this the latest marketing technique?  Stir us all up to "want" the new offerings but not make them available to everyone at once?  If that is so, this sucks...seriously!  Don't forget the backlash that this can create...we want to see the new patterns so badly that we are overanxious...and then when we finally view the new collections, we are disappointed because they are NOT as amazing as we thought...so we don't buy anything.  See, backlash ~ You know what I'm saying!  *LOL*

I don't need fabric.  Truly I don't but I wish that fabric.com would get in another great shipment of designer fabric because I'm sewing with the Vera Wang Lavendar collection wool jerseys that I purchased last year or is the year before, now?  Anyway, I've made some amazing garments from those fabrics and would truly love to get some more like them...

Which leads me to the Giorgio Armani's that are presently on Fabric Mart's site that are teasing the mess out of me!  I'm in love but I just can't justify buying some of those pieces...hell's bells I can't justify buying too much more fabric as it is...the fabric closet is bursting at the seams.

Going in another direction...I loved my Christmas presents this year!  Claudine ~ I got the box set of The Tudors!  All four seasons...I am IN heaven!  Gotta figure out how to incorporate some of the lusciousness of those costumes into my wardrobe.  *LOL*  Right how do I make 15th century England work in today's business world!?!  I don't know how now but it does set the creative mind whirling...

I also received three new sewing books.  The Sewing Bible Clothing (The Ultimate resource of Techniques, Ideas and Inspiration) by Wendy Gardiner; Jackets for Real People by Marta Alto, Susan Neall & Patti Palmer (thank you Gigi, that was a late addition to the Christmas list!); and The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques by Lynda Maynard.  I've only browsed through them but I'm sure that you will hear more about them in the future.

Lastly, I am sewing as the title of the post states.  However, I still haven't started work on The Pinstripe Follies Collection.  It's still simmering in the back of my mind.  I know those garments will start showing up here soon...piece by piece.

Okay ~ I'm headed back to my machine.  I'm finishing off the DVF Inspired Dress, as well as, a pair of pants.  I have a wearable musin cut out of a jacket that I want to make a lot of this year...but this will be my first version of it and a BurdaStyle top to cut out...yes, I traced the pieces from the magazine! *LOL* 

I've got a little grouping going on here...so there will definitely be more to share...later!

A Piping How To

I love piping! To me it is the perfect embellishment because it adds an interesting detail to the garment but in a very subtle way. It was one of the first "difficult" techniques I learned when starting to sew because I loved the look so much. It has always appeared in my garments and over the years I have developed a sure-fire method for inserting it.

Now I have to admit that during my "fast, faster, fastest" sewing days, piping was omitted or slapped in haphazardly...but as I grew in my art I realized that I needed to have a structure so that each application would be perfect.

So this is how I add piping to a garment - emphasis on the "I"!

First a list of items you need:

1. Piping (of course) either purchased or made by yourself. My favorite source for pre-made piping is Daytona Trimmings (featured on Project Runway) in NYC...though M&J Trims has an amazing assortment too.

2. Three different feet for your sewing machine. I use a piping foot, a zipper foot and the regular zigzag foot. I mention this because you get a better application when you change the feet on your machine and when you change your needle position.

3. A hand needle and thread. Again it seems simple but I found once I used a little hand basting my applications went much smoother.

How I do it:

A. First I take the piping and pin it onto the garment exactly 5/8" from the garment edge or exactly on the seam allowance.

B. Then I hand baste the piping down. I usually use a contrasting color thread for this basting. This is the most important step to me because it stabilizes the piping preventing it from shifting around when you sew the band or facing on.

C. Next I pin the facing or band over the piped edge. If I want a finished look inside the garment, I ALWAYS add a facing, a band or a binding piece. Something that will cover the seam that's used to secure the binding to the garment.

D. Using the piping foot on my sewing machine, I sew the facing/band/binding with the piping inserted to the garment. I set my needle position so that I am sewing as close to the piping as I can without actually stitching through it. Another thing that I do to insure that I have a clear stitching line is to use my wooden pointer. I mark a line down the top of the facing, right next to the piping. I usually mark it for a couple of inches and repeat it several times so that there is a clear indentation in the fabric. Then I stitch the fabric sandwich (garment, piping, facing/band/binding) together. Following these steps usually results in a tightly piped seam.

E. Once the seam is completed, I either clip the curves and edgestitch OR I switch machine feet to my zipper foot so that I can run a line of stitching as close to the piped edge as possible. This does two things...it secures and stabilizes the clipped piped seam and it gives it a perfect finish.

F. Finally the seam is pressed flat, always with a silk organza pressing cloth because this allows me to run the tip of my iron right next to the piping without actually pressing and possibly flattening the piping.

A few more tips:

~ When starting and stopping a seam, I always use the overlap method. One piece of piping laps over another and both are folded down into the facing/band/binding piece. Summerset has described another method on her blog that she uses and it is slightly different from this method.

~ When the piping ends at the back of a neckline facing, I make sure that the piping folds back into the facing seam for a clean finish...otherwise the piping ends will be exposed and will start to fray looking very messy.

~ I only use my piping foot when inserting the piping into the seam. I use one of the other two recommended feet at different times during the insertion process. I know that other books and magazine articles recommend using the zipper or edging foot for the entire process but I've gotten my best results using this method.

~ When adding piping to a sleeve hem or dress/skirt hem, I always make a band to enclose the piping. The end result is a cleaner finish.

Some book resources on piping how-tos:

**Embellishments A to Z - authored by Stephanie Valley, published by Taunton Press

This book devotes an entire chapter to piping.

**Vogue & Butterick's Designer Sewing Techniques

Has a short blurb about designers using piping

**Fine Embellishment Techniques - by Jane Conlon, published by Taunton Press

This book has a chapter devoted to bindings and pipings and some of the best how to instructions on how to make and apply piping

Threads also has quite a series of articles on making and applying piping...search results are here.

If you haven't given piping a try because you thought it was difficult, I hope that I have inspired you to try it by adding this technique to one of your garments. It is a wonderful embellishment that adds a richness and difference to your finished pieces. I know that I love it on mine!

Also, I realize that no one does a sewing technique absolutely the same way so if you have a different way to add piping to a garment, please leave a comment. I am always interesting in learning something new or refining a technique I already use!

Mailbag!

Some interesting things have come in the mail lately - and no NOT fabric! *LOL*

First, after my last post on embellishing, Julie #2 and her boss sent me the following trims! I already have an idea for one of them, which you will see soon!

Then the long awaited pattern and muslin from Debbie Cook arrived! Debbie made this BWOF blouse, reviewed it here on Pattern Review and as she started to work on it, I begged for a copy of the pattern once it was finished. Well actually I started begging when she said she was going to make the blouse and I really wanted one like this! And I didn't want to have to grade up the pattern!!!! Debbie being the generous sewist that she is, sent me not only the pattern but the instructions, her last muslin and a swatch of her fabric! Tres kewl! So I can alter her muslin and the pattern to get my own perfect fit! I am in sewing heaven!!!!

And three new Vogue patterns...I have bought more patterns in the last 4 months (well since joining Club BMV) than I did all of last year! The convenience of picking patterns well in advance of a sale, keeping them in the shopping cart on the site until the next sale, always having my size available and then having them delivered to my mailbox is one of the best $13 investments I've made in a long time!

So in the spirit of "Pay It Forward" I have two new Threads issues that I want to give away. See what happened was...I recently renewed my Threads subscription about 2 years after letting the old one lapse. The newsstand is on my way to work and it is so convenient to pick one up there...however, lately the Threads shows up there about a month after everyone has received it at home! And the conversations surrounding the magazine were wearing me out with anticipation, so to eliminate just one more unnecessary stress in my life - I reupped.

What does this have to do with paying it forward...I am giving the issues away along with free postage to anywhere in the world! The issues are the January 2008 issue with the one easy casual skirt on the front and the March 2008 issue with the little black couture dress on the cover. If you want one or both, just leave a message in the comments section and I will do a random drawing on Saturday...that should give those interested enough time to say something! I will reveal the winners then!

Finally, my friend Summerset (yeah, girl, I think of you as a friend even though I've never met you face to face!) has awarded me the "Excellent Blog" Award!

Thank you so much! It means so much receiving this recognition from such a talented sewist! But I have to admit that I am even more excited that you nominated my girl, Marji, who is a phenomenal yet unsung sewing talent in the online sewing community! I want to do a separate post on my nominations, so look for that tomorrow! Until then...

The UPS Guy Knows My Name

And if he doesn't ~ he should because more stuff came yesterday! Something from the UPS guy and stuff from the US Postal Service...

The car "Jammers" boxes arrived from http://www.spacesavers.com/:

And Cidell, they are exactly like my original ones...so I happily spent time filling these up and now my boxes look like this:

And the thread rack looks like this:

Before the last three boxes arrived, I had thread stuffed everywhere but now, everything is sorted by color and I have loads of space left! Time to get that Gutterman's thread chart out and order more colors! My goal is to have at least one spool of each color on the thread chart.

This also showed up yesterday! I love mail!

I know that the Butterick pattern site is running patterns for $5.99 until midnight tonight but I bought this one with my BMV club membership when it first hit the website. I really liked the pattern and thought that it would go great with the metallic linen...however, now that the two are both here, I have other plans for the metallic linen.

I am forcing myself to stay out of bed today...I am beginning to feel like I will never get better if I don't get up and move around...don't feel much like sewing but we'll see.

Hope you have a great sewing weekend!

My Threads Collection

I know not the post you were expecting...but two things happened to me.

One - my bookshelf holding my magazines collapsed...yeap, shelves just folded in on themselves. Now I knew this was going to happen, because I have rescued and rearranged it several times trying to forestall the inevitable...well the inevitable has occurred and now I need to either purchase a new bookshelf and some magazine holders 'cause stacking the magazines on a shelf ain't hitting it! Or leave the stacks of magazine articles laying in my living room floor - NOT!

Two - a friend asked for an article from an older Threads magazine that she did not have...which of course having saved every Threads since I first started purchasing them...I did have!

These two events caused me to reflect on how awesome the entire Threads magazine library is that I own. I have almost every issue since December 1991-January 1992, Issue No. 38 (where the cover price was $4.75). I have about 5 or 6 issues prior to that date but they are really sporadic. I started to purchase Threads Magazine back when my daughters were babies.

I was working a job that I didn't like but it was close to home (5 minutes away), I didn't have to work overtime or weekends, I could come home for lunch and check on my children or food shop during the day, and it brought in the extra money that my family needed. A co-worker knew that I sewed, admired it and encouraged me...the sad thing is that I don't even remember her name. I was in my 30's at the time and she was in her 50's. She sewed but she primarily knitted, the most amazing sweaters! Anyway, one day as I was headed out to the local fabric shop, in those days I bought a piece of fabric and a pattern for each project, I had very little stash, she told me to look for the Threads magazine...so I bought it.

Now I would like to say that I was instantly hooked! Subscribed and/or purchased each one from then on...no, not quite! I liked the magazine but with a young family and a daughter still in Huggies, I had other priorities...sewing was pretty far down the list. But somewhere around 1992, I did start to purchase them frequently and then I got a subscription. I have subscribed off and on since then. I have been consistently collecting Threads magazines for 16 years!

Whew! What an introduction! *LOL* To the real point of this post...my Threads collection is a wonderful assemblage of sewing information...even when the issues were lukewarm, the collection taken as a whole is jam-packed with sewing knowledge. There is no aspect of sewing that hasn't been covered by the Threads staff! Of course some things that were too advanced for me when I first picked up a magazine, is on point now! And some of the things that I needed earlier on to take my sewing to the next level, don't interest me as much anymore.

But that is the incredible thing about Threads...it does try to hit a sewist in whatever stage of learning he or she is at...which is an awesome task! And one that the staff has managed to do on a pretty consistant basis! I know others have become bored with the magazine or tired of it and stopped purchasing it. However, I never did and as a result there is an encyclopedia of sewing know-how at my fingertips. For that I'm grateful and glad that I hung in there with the Threads staff.

So if you are just starting to collect Threads...and I whole-heartedly suggest that you do! Or if you've stopped and wondered why you should continue, just go back through a few years of the magazines that you have and reread some of the articles, you will be sooooo encouraged to continue to pick up new ones and maybe even buy some back issues from the Threads website, from Ebay and even periodically from Patternreview's classified section.

One last thing, I don't know how my overseas visitors can subscribe to or purchase Threads, I hope that you can. If so I am not sure what postage is but again, if you can manage it, I definitely would try to get my hands on some copies. I believe that this magazine series is invaluable to the sewist!

Also for anyone asking, I have NO affliations with Threads magazine or the staff. I just love this magazine and am so appreciative that this sewing instruction is at my fingertips due to their diligence!

A Book Review: "The Collection"

I know that this book has made the circuit in blogland and that many people have reviewed it already...and it's been pretty much decided that this isn't "great literature". But the book tells a great story, is interesting and was a good bus read.

The thing that got me about the book was Isabelle Varlet's love of sewing. See I can just so relate to that! I loved the passages in the book that described her stitches, how she sewed a garment and her love of the fabric...ohmygosh...did this girl love fabric! Shannon & Marji ~ we could have been her sisters!

Then there were the passages that described the fittings at pose, the detail that was used to describe the garments...you know that I read those and then read them again they were so enticing.

But I guess the thing that I really liked about the book was that it made me want to sew. I am sure that is why I recently hand-stitched the lining was into "the ribbed dress" because that's what Varlet would have done. And it's made me want to slow down and enjoy the process even more...I am sure some of you are wondering at that last statement since it seems like I bum rush items when I'm on sewing vacay but do you realize how much preproduction work has gone into those garments? When I'm on sewing vacay, I am in the zone. I am ready and I am sewing! *LOL*

So it was great to go to the newsstand today and FINALLY pick up a copy of the latest issue of Threads and find articles on hand-stitching, a couture little black dress - complete with instructions on muslining it, underlining it and finishing it with a picked zipper...and Amber Eden's Editor's Letter on slow sewing...

"The Collection" will stay with me for awhile...so if you haven't read it...get a copy! Read it and enjoy the sumptious passages about her sewing and the fabrics and the pose...like I said, it ain't great literature but it is a fulfilling sewing read!