Making Life More Beautiful book by Kate Davies

I've "known" Kate for several years.  She's one of those online sewing friends that I've communicated with offline and would love to meet in person.  So I was really interested when I learned she was writing a book!

I'm always enthralled when someone decides to not only write a book but self-publish. That's determination! When Kate approached me and asked if I would review her book, it was a definite yes! 

I would call Kate's book more of a lifestyle book than strictly a sewing or crafting book.  It touches on a number of sections about beauty and making your life beautiful that add to the sewists experience which aren't normally found in sewing books.  BTW, I'm reviewing this book from a sewists perspective.

Let's dig into the book!  The first section is on Beauty which has four sections ~ your coloring, your body shape, your wardrobe & personal style and fashion.  As sewists, we need information like this to insure that we're making garments that not only fit our bodies but enhance our lifestyles.

The beauty section also contains an in-depth segment on colors and which coloring works best for our skin tones.  An important concept that sewists should master to make the best color choices for our garments.

There is a really important section on proportion.  Again a needed concept for sewists to grasp and understand, knowing how to incorporate it into their sewing projects.

Two additional parts in the beauty section that struck me were the wardrobe types and where Kate discusses capsule wardrobes. In wardrobe styles, which we know is not a new thing, the twist Kate gives it is what I loved most. She named the wardrobe styles by celebrity names, for example - the classic wardrobe style is called Jackie Kennedy!  Capsule wardrobes which are near and dear to my own heart, is detailed and how they work for a sewist in building a cohesive wardrobe that will be worn and loved.

Making is the next section ~

A really fascinating introduction which touches on why we make and the history of patterns.  Of course the first section is on sewing with several projects highlighted and instructions on how to create them.

The next two sections are on knitting (because if you've followed Kate's blog, you know she is an amazing knitter!) and crocheting where there are also several projects to make including the instructions. After the sewing, knitting and crocheting projects, Kate has included a section on making your own textiles.

Life is the final section of the book ~
This portion is all about building a beautiful life through your surroundings and developing a creative team to help inspire you to move forward in your creative journeys.

It is a well-written book full of breathtakingly beautiful pictures. It includes a resource center at the back of the book. In full disclosure I'm one of the people acknowledged and thanked. Honestly though, I read the entire book and found that at the end. I didn't know about it beforehand and was extremely touched.

So of course Kate is giving away one book to be won by one lucky sewist.  If you're interested in winning a copy of this amazing book, please drop a comment in the comment box below - only comments left here on the blog are eligible for the giveaway.  The giveaway is open from today until Friday, July 27th at 11:59pm EST.  The winner will be picked over the weekend and announced on Sunday, July 29th.

However, if you don't wanna wait to win the book, you can always purchase it directly from Kate via her blog or on Amazon UK.

Good luck to everyone entering the drawing!

...as always more later!

Sew the Garment Making Book by Barbara Emodi

I've known that Barbara was writing a sewing book almost since she decided to write it. Occasionally she's posted a pic to Instagram showing what she was sewing for the book which was released on May 7th.

Of course I ordered it as soon as possible and received it a couple of weeks ago. The name of the book is, "SEW The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge: Real-Life Lessons from a Serial Sewist." And I can honestly tell you that even though Barbara says she wrote the book for the new and/or returning sewist I'm an experienced sewist and I learned a few things too, as well as, having a few things I knew reinforced.

I love the format of the book. Each chapter has a name. One of my favorites is "Chapter 7 - The Gear Side of Sewing" OMG isn't that a great name to describe all of the equipment we acquire for sewing?! So each chapter has a description then mini-lesson to help you learn a skill. The thing that absolutely thrills me is Barbara's Tips which are at the end of every chapter. Each one is written in Barbara's voice - at least I can hear her speaking - and is full of interesting things that you learn from experience. Things that she's sharing for all sewists to know.

Okay let me back up and give you some other chapter names..."Why Sew," "If it Fits, They Will Wear It," "Choosing and Cutting Fabric" and another fave, "Sewing for Joy" - each chapter is chock full of information along with the tips, and mini-lessons! Sewing Terms are called Sewing Speak! Now as a beginner or a returning sewist wouldn't you have loved a book that explained in detail what all those words that sewists threw around meant? Barbara explains them so that there are no questions...at all.

If you are acquiring your own sewing library and not just relying upon the internet, this would be a good book to add to it. And if you're feeling lucky, leave a comment below to win a copy. See Barbara being the amazing friend that she is, offered me a copy, not realizing that I'd already bought one. We decided that one lucky reader should own it.

In the comment section below, please leave your name and one sentence about why you'd like to win the book. ONLY comments left on this blog post, not in bloglovin' or any of the other blog readers will be eligible to win the book. You should leave your comment by Saturday, June 9th at 11:59pm EST. I will announce the winner on Sunday, June 10th and Barbara will send the book out to you.  Good luck!

...as always more later!

Remembering the Elders or the Sewists who've gone before...

Lately, I've been having conversations with my sewing friends and acquaintances about "Remembering The Elders."  Sometimes I think we get so caught up in the here and now, and don't realize that people have been sewing since we human beings donned clothing.

Yes, technology has changed the machinery and fabrics have been updated too but the basics of sewing remains the same...needle and thread is used to take a flat piece of fabric to make it fit our bodies. So sporadically during the next couple of months I'm going to highlight some of those whom I believe are Significant Elders.

The first person I'd like to highlight is Edna Bryte Bishop, who authored several books ~

The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction

Fashion Sewing by the Bishop Method

What is the Bishop Method?
The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction was developed by Edna Bryte Bishop as a sequential, progressive method of teaching sewing based upon fabric grain line, unit construction and short cut industrial sewing techniques. She emphasized grain perfection, accuracy in preparing, cutting and marking fabric, cutting to fit, perfection in stitching, perfection in pressing, attaining a quality look with the right trimming/detail.  Edna said that, "Achieving these principles would enable you to make quality-looking clothes and eliminate "the fireside touch" home sewing has so frequently demonstrated in the past."

Who was Edna Bryte Bishop?
She was born in 1886 in Pennsylvania, and learned to sew as a young girl. She became a teacher who originated the method of sewing using the grainline method.  She taught in schools in Massachusetts and later in New Jersey.  Her method of sewing was promoted by both JC Penneys and the Advance Pattern Company.  They were so popular that she authored the two books, The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction in 1959 and Fashion Sewing by the Bishop Method in 1966.

Now most of this information was gathered from the foreword of her books and/or the website, The Bishop Method of Construction. 

I own both of the books listed above and consider them important parts of my sewing library.  I found the first book (The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction) at a library sale and a friend gave me the second one.  

Here is what I was attracted to...

Love the embellishments to add to your garments

Collar, lapel and button front trimmings

The pictures above are from

The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction

These chapter pages are from

Fashion Sewing by the Bishop Method

Now, if you want to own a great vintage sewing book or two, I've provided Amazon links.  Although I'm sure other vintage booksellers might be able to find you a copy. And if you only need an internet reference, the website link above will give you a great overview of the Bishop Method, as well as, the ability to join a Bishop Chapter.

Madalynne, also wrote an excellent blog post on The Bishop Method in February of this year. It's how I learned about the Bishop website.  I really think it's important that we continue to honor the legacy of great sewists that have gone before, yet have left such awesome information that can assist us in becoming better sewists today.

...as always more later!

Handsewn - The Book & A Little Easter Fun

Recently I was gifted with an Amazon Gift Card and unlike others I NEVAH hold onto a gift card!  I was practically running to my computer to spend it! *LOL*  I had a few things in my cart for awhile so I knew what I wanted...but Amazon in their marketing amazingness, of course had suggestions for me.  One of the suggestions was this...

handsewn - the essential techniques by Margaret Rowan

After spending a considerable amount of time hand stitching the lace to my MSN Lace Challenge dress, I was really interested in having a book in my sewing library all about hand stitches.  

Of course, I added this book to the cart.  It arrived Tuesday evening and I've been reading it every evening before bed.  I was way more concerned with the hand stitching techniques for tailoring than for embellishment.  However, after getting through the book, I'm glad that it's such a comprehensive book on hand stitching. Now when I'm questioning how to attach something or how to hand stitch a piece of a garment I have an excellent resource to go to. 

The book is divided into two sections ~ hand sewing for tailoring and hand sewing for embellishment.  Then the author further divides the hand stitches into Skill Levels along with the prerequisite tools and equipment chapter.  I think it's a great book if you want to stitch up samples or if you just want to use it as a reference guide.  It definitely has a place in my sewing library and I know that I'll turn to it again and again for hand stitching.  If you're interested in adding another layer of sewing techniques to your sewing arsenal, I highly recommend purchasing this book.

+ + + + +

It's Easter Weekend and we have a family tradition where the youngest kids come and dye Easter eggs with my Mom.  This year my daughter brought her kids, my sister's son & daughter came and my brother sent his son while his daughter (who I can't believe is 21!) came along to help out.  

Here's a few pics of the fun...

Dyeing the eggs all the grandkids, 

the nieces, nephew & my daughter

Dyed eggs

Easter treats for the kiddies

My babies eating pizza and cupcakes

+ + + + +

It's been a full two weeks at work...my new boss started last Monday and it's been a lot of long days filled with meetings and transitioning...so I have no desire to sew.  I really just want to veg this weekend and enjoy my family.  The jacket that I was finishing to accompany the dress probably won't be sewn.  I will probably wear a fingertip length beige cardigan with the dress.  Now I know I'm doing a great disservice to the dress but it would be worse to throw together a jacket than to find a substitute...at least in my book.  Things might change tomorrow but I doubt it.

...as always more later!

Saturday Morning Diary Bits

Well it's the weekend again...and thank goodness because it has been a long week!  I've done no sewing this week but that's no surprise since I rarely sew during the week.  However, I have purchased a few things:


1.  A tripod

Thanks to Shams who fielded quite a few questions and gave me a lot of encouragement, this arrived a couple of days ago.  So not only will I hopefully be able to take pictures of myself in my garments but you will probably be subjected to a few posts on me learning how to use it too.


2.  A book, "Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers"

This book has been on my Amazon wishlist for awhile, ever since Ann, of Gorgeous Things, reviewed it.  It went on sale earlier this week, a $22 savings, so I snatched it up.


3.  February 2012 BurdaStyle Issue

You know I gave up Burda Style pattern magazine last year.  In my opinion, the subscription price is over the top for patterns that I was no longer inspired by and the Universal newsstand where I bought the issues one off closed a few months ago.  They had stopped carrying them before they closed and I just didn't have the time to troop around NYC to hunt down copies.  So why did I buy this issue? I loved this dress.

The color blocking is awesome and I thought I could make it using my TNT pattern but I really wanted to see the pattern pieces so that my rendition would be as close to the original as possible.  Then Audrey of Sew Tawdry went and reviewed it on PR, and I knew I had to own a copy of the magazine.  I don't know if I will get to it soon (like in the next 2 or 3 weeks) but definitely before February is done...there is that 3 day weekend coming up for President's Day and it would give me the time I needed to work on the pattern alterations since it only goes up to a size 42.


4.  A piece of fabric

I was in a bad place earlier in the week and the only thing that would soothe my soul was fabric.  You know how it is, the imaginings of a new garment from a new piece of fabric ~ okay maybe you don't know how it is! *LOL*  But it works for me and in this instance I even showed restraint and only purchased one piece along with a piece of lining to make the $35 free shipping on fabric.com.  Anyway, I also found this Vintage Vogue Pattern on eBay that perfectly displayed the idea I saw in my head when I bought the fabric...

Vogue 9127 is on the left and the one I want to make

Another idea added to my sewing list...this is a piece that can be worn into early spring and would make a great work dress...so even if it doesn't get made until April it would be fine since the wool is a lightweight wool blend.  Speaking of April...


5.  10 more weekends to sew winter gear
...that's including this weekend of course and also includes one more three day weekend.  I worked this out earlier in the week which was really helpful in figuring out how many outfits from my sewing list have the ability to be completed. Sometimes my sewing list can overwhelm me, so knowing how much time I have left to complete it, helps me to assess what from my list will actually get made.  I mean not like anyone else is as obsessed with sewing as much as I am!  *LOL*


So I'm off...I want to work on my cardigan and top for the Lavender and Gray Skies wardrobe.  I'm getting close to finishing up this wardrobe and I want to wear it to work this week especially since we are experiencing unseasonably warm temps for winter here in the NY/NJ metro area.


...as always, more later...

The Colette Sewing Handbook

I've been aware of the Colette pattern line since it first came to market and even though I've admired some of the garments made from the patterns, the line didn't really fit my lifestyle.  I was also aware that Sarai was writing a book and I have to admit that I really had no plans on purchasing it. 

Then I saw my first Meringue skirt and I wanted one.  I really wanted one after I saw a few more versions and Sarai posted instructions on her blog on how to add a waistband to the skirt.  I don't know about my fellow plus size sistahs but I NEED a waistband on a straight skirt that has a zipper!  The hunt was on to find the pattern...and that's when I realized that the only way to get the pattern was to buy the book.  Since I needed a few Christmas gifts from Amazon, I threw it in the cart for me.


The book arrived this morning and instead of finishing up my McCalls dress, I've been sitting here engrossed in the book.  Why do you ask?  Because even though this book is geared to the beginning sewist, Sarai said a few things in her introduction that had me shaking my head "yes" along with her.  These three sentences sealed the deal for me:


"There's only one trait that I think every sewer should possess: curiosity.  Learning to sew is an ongoing process; in fact, the learning never really stops.  Each project has the potential to teach you something new."


Those are such awesome and wise words.  It's the reason I call myself an intermediate sewist 'cause I believe that there is ALWAYS something new to learn about my craft.  


Then Sarai sealed the deal when she discussed wearable muslins positively.  Now anyone who has read my ramblings for any amount of time knows that I don't make a muslin and that I believe in wearable muslins.  This can be such a divisive subject in the sewing community so to read that she actually understands that there is a place for the wearable muslin, made my heart sing.  Especially because many times I'm the one standing alone or in the midst of the minority on this technique.


The final selling point (the one that made me write this blog post) was that I learned a new fitting technique.  My  AHA! moment occurred when I was reviewing the pivot alteration that she wrote for adding width to the hip line in a skirt and in a bodice pattern piece.  I've always added space/width at the center front of the pattern piece but Sarai shows how to add it by slashing and spreading, then pivoting the pattern piece.  Now I can't wait to use this technique on a new pattern!


So look for a new Meringue skirt here soon and if you've been wondering if you need a copy of this book in your sewing library, YES you do!  To help you along I'm including a link to Sarai's bundle special, buy the book and get 2 patterns for $50.  Since it's Shop a Small Business Saturday, place an order today to support this small sewing business.


I'm off to finish my latest dress which is turning out better than I expected.  Love when that happens!  I still have tomorrow to sew and I just might dig out the piece of fabric that I'm thinking about and make my very own version of the Meringue skirt...


...as always, more later!


  

Another Addition to my Sewing Library

There is a review of this book on Stitcher's Guild by Alexandra, who authors the blog, Studio Alexandra.

Fitting & Pattern Alteration

I have a couple of books by Judith Rasband in my sewing library so I went looking for it thinking that I had purchased it in the past...but no I hadn't so it is on its way to me now. 

You may wonder why I've purchased several sewing books lately when there is so much information now available on the internet?  Well, yes there is but I'm a woman who learned to sew when books and TV shows were the best and only ways of getting this information...unless of course you took a class...which was also pretty available when I was young girl.  So books are my preferred ways of learning and lately I've just wanted to add another dimension to my sewing...to learn some more advanced techniques and to move my sewing forward.  There is always something new to learn and I don't want to stagnant in my art.

While I was searching the books in my sewing library, I happened upon this book:

It is a very treasured book to me.  So treasured that it has earned a paragraph in my will.  I found this book in a used bookstore in Montclair, NJ.  I use to live in Montclair and took my daughters to this bookstore almost every weekend to share my love of reading with them.  This establishment frequently bought books from estate sales and sometimes the sewing section would be bursting with older sewing books that were just amazing to me.  My family and I visited the bookstore so often that the manager would let me know when new sewing books had arrived...and he often teased me that if something happened to me to let them know so that he could reclaim his books!

What touched me the most today about this book is the copyright date:  1911.  I am in possession of a book that was published a century ago and it's still in marvelous condition.  It's a slim book that is very concise in it's sewing techniques but it is a wonderful part of my sewing library.  I did a google search and Alibris.com has some reproduced books that you can purchase or you can download a copy of the original from The Library of Congress.

I love the internet.  I love how it brings together sewists from around the world and allows us to share ideas, thoughts, inspiration and information.  However, to me books are an important part of our heritage and the ability to learn especially since historically black people in America were shut out of opportunities to read and learn...so I treasure my books and my ability to purchase and own them.

Okay...this has gotten a little deep so I'll swing it back the other way...I'm still working on the pea green linen dress...slowly...and I don't know if I will have it finished today.  I think the rush of sewing I did last weekend has satisfied my creative urge.  But the day is still young and my sewing machine may yet sing it's siren's song to me...urging me to spend some quality time with it! *smile*

...as always, more later!

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity Jig!

After spending four days in the Dominican Republic at our Corporate Retreat in amazingly warm, humid weather...I left this:

...to return to this:

There is something to be said for traveling in the winter! *LOL*  The resort was amazing and even though the four days were very structured and work related...I did enjoy it.

However, I did return to a few sewing treats...

This is an Anna Sui sweatery fabric purchased from Fabric Mart prior to my departure.  It works perfectly with the silk/wool tweed straight skirt that is in progress.

This grey wool boucle was also in the box because I loved the first two boucle pieces I purchased and figured I should just add one more.

I bought this rayon print from Emmaonesock because it just screamed spring - and I need a little spring in my life right now! *LOL*

Power Sewing Toolbox - Part 1

Power Sewing Tool Box - Part 2

The last things waiting for me were the new Sandra Betzina books.  I love Sandra Betzina's teaching style...have since she had her Sew Perfect show on HGTV.  And it was really kewl to see my friend Diane Egleston's name listed as one of the Editors of the books!

I don't know if I'm going to sew today.  If I do I might not do enough to finish anything, but I'm home and hopefully it will be a little quieter and slower at work this week.  Then maybe I can figure out what to sew during the three day President's Day weekend, where I'll be home again!

...as always, more later!

Book Review: Koos Couture Collage Inspiration & Techniques

Koos Couture Collage Inspiration & Techniques

by Linda Chang Teufel

I placed this book on my nightstand a week ago after seeing Shams beautiful rendition of this Vogue pattern:

Vogue 1213

Several years ago, a friend of mine gifted me with this book after we attended the Worcester Sewing Expo.  I'd been feening for the book but with three small children didn't really have the funds to purchase it.  I know that I carted it around for awhile and read it from cover to cover.  I don't even know if it overtly influenced my sewing at the time though it was a very inspirational read.

So how did it end up back on my nightstand?  Well Shams' wonderful coat reminded me that the book was in my sewing library and when I picked it up to mention in a comment, the awesome photography and amazing use of fabric just smacked me in the face.  I HAD to spend some time with this book again.

The book is not only a history of Koos background as a designer but there are sections on how a home sewist can use his techniques to make their own Koos inspired garments.  Now some of these collage techniques are very involved...however, there are some simplier and yet just as dramatic techniques showcased in the book.  There are instructions on how he uses bias tape in the actual design and how to finish seams.  How to select the fabrics used to make collages, how to make fabric lace, as well as, how to put it all together to make one of his renowned fabric collages.

I know this style of garment is not presently in style.  But as home sewists we can draw inspiration from a variety of sources to implement our own personal style.  And while some of Koos more elaborate designs wouldn't be suitable for my daily professional attire, his love of fabric, some of his silhouettes and certainly the passion for what he makes are more than appreciated by me.

This book is eye candy to my soul.  It is encouraging to my inner creative muse and it is fueling some different creative connections.  I know that many of us purchase technique driven sewing books...and rightfully so since we want to improve our sewing skills.  However, if you are looking for a book to jumpstart your creativity, to lead you down different paths of inspiration, please consider looking into this book.  As Shams interpretation of the pattern has shown, this is a very wearable look that can be achieved by quite a few of us by editing our fabric choices and making decisions that work for our everyday lives.  I highly recommend adding this book to your sewing library if you are looking to branch out and explore different creative avenues!

...more later! 

Corporate Art to Wear

Even though I work in a very corporate setting, I have always been more of an "artsy" type garment wearer. So I am constantly looking for a way to add a corporate slant to "Art to Wear" garments.

I was inspired to purchase the Swing Jackets pattern/book/DVD combo from Nancy's Notions after watching the first part of the series in the streaming videos. The jacket concept along with the ability to add embellishment to it, to make it reversible ~ my mind went gaga over an all silk crepe reversible jacket ~ to use some manipulated fabrics for it, really tickled my imagination...so it is now on it's way to me!

I totally understand that "corporate" and "art to wear" are two terms that don't seem to be related to each other but again if you look in most plus size stores or in the plus size section of most pattern companies..."high fashion" and "plus-size" don't seem to go together either! Since I seem to have a knack for going against the grain, I am on a search for a jacket pattern that I can coalesce into a corporate look with an art to wear sensibility.

There are times we must travel new paths and explore new creative venues...trails that others don't venture upon or can't see their way down...or even have a vision for! Hopefully this series will assist me in trying something new that will come closer to a vision that I've been holding onto for a minute. Now of course, I have no idea when I will get to this pattern...there is just so much stuff rolling around in this brain trying to get out...but when I do get to it and figure out what I want it to become...I will share it here!

Until then the possibility of mixing two styles that shouldn't go together into one awesome outfit that works on all levels for me is a very intriguing thought...and one that I am actively seeking to create in 2009!

Nancy's Notions Streaming Videos

I am suppose to be cleaning up my room and getting ready to go out this evening for holiday festivities. Instead I'm surfing the internet and watching Nancy's Notions videos!

Now, I received an email when Nancy Ziemen first started posting her videos to the internet, watched one or two and promptly forgot about them! *shame, shame on me!* Today while reading something on Patternreview, I happened across this blog, "Eyelets in the Seams". And as usual when I'm visiting someone's blog for the first time, I check out their blog roll.

Imagine my surprise and delight when I happened upon the link to Nancy's Notions streaming videos...and probably my date's horror because I've been glued to my computer since! *LOL* But seriously, I do have a few hours left to get ready...and I've favorited the site and you should too!

So here it is: Sewing with Nancy TV. Of course, it's already done its job because I've ordered a book, pattern and DVD from the site! I am soooo excited because I really want to try this jacket idea out!

More later!!!

"The Complete Book of Sewing"

I love sewing books...vintage or newly published...especially if they have some interesting information to share that will increase my knowledge of my craft. But I especially love vintage sewing books! Like vintage pattern instruction sheets these books manage to cram so much more information into a couple of hundred pages than newly published ones do.

I stumbled upon "The Complete Book of Sewing by Constance Talbot" discussion on PR and of course had to run right over to Abe Books to see what all the fuss was about. As an aside...I love Abe Books...it is great for finding any book that is out of print. I can choose my price point and where I want the book to come from...so no waiting for a book from Oshkosh, Wisconsin when one is available in Bristol, Massachusetts.

My copy of this book showed up last week and every night I have been pouring over it. It covers garment to home dec sewing with chapters like this for garment sewing:

Choosing the Right Clothes

How to Choose the Right Fabrics

Save and Sew

Darts, Tucks and Pleats

Hems, Facings, Bindings

The Science of Cutting

Underwear for all the Family

and like this for home dec:

Fabrics for the Home

Slipcovers

Curtain Rods to Suit the Curtains

How to Make Formal Draperies

Quilting Spreads and accessories

Now that is just some of the Chapter titles...there are 45 covering various subjects regarding sewing. And all of this amazing information alongwith a very thorough index is contained in 320 pages! So if you want a copy for your personal sewing library...Abe Books has quite a few left ranging in price from $1.30 to $53! I heartily encourage you to get a copy of this book...it is a treasure trove of sewing knowledge!

Embellishing a Garment - Part 1

The other day, I was having a conversation with a friend about how I use trim and my ability to see it in a garment. So I decided that maybe I would share some info with you about how I think about embellishing garments and how I execute the look.

First a little background:

I have always liked trimmings. I know that I sneaked a piece of lace from my Grandma's stash to add to one of my original Barbie creations at 11! And I vividly remember learning about piping and how to apply it to a garment as a teenager. Does anyone else remember those Wright packages of trimmings? I used those for the longest time...

Several people have said to me that they think I use trim so much and so effectively because it is readily available to me through local resources, i.e., NYC Garment District. And while it is true that I do have some amazing resources, Daytona Trimmings, M&J Trimmings and Tinsel Trading as well as a host of bead and button shops, I truly believe that if you don't have an idea and a plan for how to use the trim, resources won't matter.

This first post will be about embellishment/trim books. Now you know that I am a huge believer in owning the right sewing book to get the job done. When I checked my sewing library I found that I had 13 books on some form of embellishment...how to apply it, techniques, inspiration, etc. A few are quilting titles, a few are technique driven, and a couple are totally inspirational. Almost all of my vintage sewing books offer a section on embellishment and even though the topic basically comprises one chapter of the book, they are chockful of information!

The following are my favorite top five embellishment books, in no particular order...

1. Embellishments A to Z

Author: Stephanie Valley; Published by Taunton Press

As the title says it goes through embellishment techniques from A to Z. It has large clear pictures, a project rating (easy to advanced), a supply list and some sewing techniques. This is a great how-to book and since it has a spiral binding it will lay flat next to your sewing machine if you want to follow along.

2. Make it Your Own - Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design

Authors: Lori Bottom & Ronda Chaney; Published by Chilton Book Company

There is a tag line on the back of the book that says, "No more cookie-cutter clothes" and I think that is the essence of this book. You are shown through pattern alterations how to change a pattern up and embellish the original look. Now this is not a use-trim to get an effect book but a pattern alteration manual that uses the pattern and fabric to enhance your garment.

3. The Great Put On

Authors: Lois Ericson, Linda Wakefield; self published

This book has a more Wearable Art feel but there are some interesting techniques in here that could be applied to a host of garment situations. I like this book because it is a really think outside the box book.

4. Designer Techniques Couture Tips for Home Sewing

Authors: Kenneth King; published by Sterling Publishing Company

This book is full of techniques that Kenneth has perfected in his design line. There are pictures as well as illustrations with step by step instructions. Just a wonderful book by a master of embellishment.

5. Fine Embellishment Techniques - Classic Details for Today's Clothing

Author: Jane Conlon; published by Taunton Press

This book concentrates on five types of embellishment - beading, threadwork, trims, applique and binding & pipings. There are great color photographs and clear illustrations with a lot of step by step instructions.

I highly recommend all of these books. After taking the time to read and ingest the information in these books, you will look at trims and embellishments in a completely different manner!

The other 8 books in my library are:

a. Embellishments - Adding Glamour to Garments by Linda Fry Kenzle

b. Fabulous Fabric Embellishments Elegant & Innovative Techniques by Mary Jo Hiney

c. Celtic Knotwork Designs by Sheila Sturrock

d. Weave It! Quilt It! Wear It! by Mary Anne Caplinger

e. Sew Easy Embellishments by Nancy Zieman

f. On the Surface by Wendy Hill

g. The Artful Ribbon by Candance Kling

h. The Art of Fabric Collage by Rosemary Eichorn

Now a few vintage book mentions:

Two are from Edna Bishop ~ Fashion Sewing by the Bishop Method & The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction - both have just one chapter on trimming the finished garment but the ideas that are shown are awe-inspiring, yet quite easy to accomplish...definitely not things you would see on today's clothing even the ones with a retro feel.

The last one is, Sewing Made Easy by Mary Lynch and Dorothy Sara. This book has three chapters on embellishing your clothing and again the embellishments just add so much to the finished garments.

Lastly a pretty new reference that I highly recommend is the latest issue of Sew Stylish Magazine that is all about embellishments! If you just want a taste of embellishing knowledge without a hefty investment, this is the way to go!

In my next post I will talk about when I choose to embellish a garment and some techniques I use.

My Threads Collection

I know not the post you were expecting...but two things happened to me.

One - my bookshelf holding my magazines collapsed...yeap, shelves just folded in on themselves. Now I knew this was going to happen, because I have rescued and rearranged it several times trying to forestall the inevitable...well the inevitable has occurred and now I need to either purchase a new bookshelf and some magazine holders 'cause stacking the magazines on a shelf ain't hitting it! Or leave the stacks of magazine articles laying in my living room floor - NOT!

Two - a friend asked for an article from an older Threads magazine that she did not have...which of course having saved every Threads since I first started purchasing them...I did have!

These two events caused me to reflect on how awesome the entire Threads magazine library is that I own. I have almost every issue since December 1991-January 1992, Issue No. 38 (where the cover price was $4.75). I have about 5 or 6 issues prior to that date but they are really sporadic. I started to purchase Threads Magazine back when my daughters were babies.

I was working a job that I didn't like but it was close to home (5 minutes away), I didn't have to work overtime or weekends, I could come home for lunch and check on my children or food shop during the day, and it brought in the extra money that my family needed. A co-worker knew that I sewed, admired it and encouraged me...the sad thing is that I don't even remember her name. I was in my 30's at the time and she was in her 50's. She sewed but she primarily knitted, the most amazing sweaters! Anyway, one day as I was headed out to the local fabric shop, in those days I bought a piece of fabric and a pattern for each project, I had very little stash, she told me to look for the Threads magazine...so I bought it.

Now I would like to say that I was instantly hooked! Subscribed and/or purchased each one from then on...no, not quite! I liked the magazine but with a young family and a daughter still in Huggies, I had other priorities...sewing was pretty far down the list. But somewhere around 1992, I did start to purchase them frequently and then I got a subscription. I have subscribed off and on since then. I have been consistently collecting Threads magazines for 16 years!

Whew! What an introduction! *LOL* To the real point of this post...my Threads collection is a wonderful assemblage of sewing information...even when the issues were lukewarm, the collection taken as a whole is jam-packed with sewing knowledge. There is no aspect of sewing that hasn't been covered by the Threads staff! Of course some things that were too advanced for me when I first picked up a magazine, is on point now! And some of the things that I needed earlier on to take my sewing to the next level, don't interest me as much anymore.

But that is the incredible thing about Threads...it does try to hit a sewist in whatever stage of learning he or she is at...which is an awesome task! And one that the staff has managed to do on a pretty consistant basis! I know others have become bored with the magazine or tired of it and stopped purchasing it. However, I never did and as a result there is an encyclopedia of sewing know-how at my fingertips. For that I'm grateful and glad that I hung in there with the Threads staff.

So if you are just starting to collect Threads...and I whole-heartedly suggest that you do! Or if you've stopped and wondered why you should continue, just go back through a few years of the magazines that you have and reread some of the articles, you will be sooooo encouraged to continue to pick up new ones and maybe even buy some back issues from the Threads website, from Ebay and even periodically from Patternreview's classified section.

One last thing, I don't know how my overseas visitors can subscribe to or purchase Threads, I hope that you can. If so I am not sure what postage is but again, if you can manage it, I definitely would try to get my hands on some copies. I believe that this magazine series is invaluable to the sewist!

Also for anyone asking, I have NO affliations with Threads magazine or the staff. I just love this magazine and am so appreciative that this sewing instruction is at my fingertips due to their diligence!

New sewing books have arrived

One of my Christmas presents was an Amazon gift card. Now I knew that I wanted books but I wanted to take my time to insure that I bought the perfect books for me! If you've been reading along, you know that I have a pretty good sewing library, consisting of both older sewing volumes as well as newer sewing issues. I have shared my list of "Ten Favorite Sewing Books" and some additional authors whose books I MUST have!

So it should come as no surprise that one of the first books on my list was, "Make Your Own Dress Patterns" by Adele P. Margolis. I was turned onto Adele by Colleen Jones. She gave me my first one, "Fashion Sewing for Everyone" and I just loved that book. I subsequently added the following titles to my library:

The Complete Book of Tailoring
How to Make Clothes that Fit & Flatter
The Dressmaking Book

The book that I purchased from Amazon, is published by Dover Publications. There is a note on the second page that says this is an unabridged republication of Make Your Own Patterns: A Primer in Patternmaking for Those Who Like to Sew, originally published by Doubleday & Company, Inc. Garden City, New York in 1985. So this is not an original but I am happy to get my hands on it anyway!

Due to an extraordinarily busy week, I haven't done much but skim the book. However, here is the introduction:

"For many sewers, creativity is often blocked by dependence on ready-made patterns. One has visualized something that cannot be found for all the looking in pattern books. There's such a time lag between the moment an exciting style triggers the imagination and that faraway day when a pattern for it is commercially available --if it ever is. Some sewers give up and settle for what they can get. Many begin apprehensively to take liberties with existing patterns. Timidly, they attempt to combine one pattern with another but are too fearful to make much progress. How they wish they knew more about patterns!

If you are one who has been scared to death to move a dart (you think it is put there by an act of Congress) or one who is awed by the seeming complexity of a pattern (the professionals in the field like to keep you that way) or one who doubts his or her ability to create ("I'm really not an artist") --relax! The basic principles of patternmaking are neither too mysterious, too numerous, nor too difficult for the home sewer. Anyone who can work through the labyrinthian directions for sewing that accompany the commercial pattern can surely learn the comparatively simple and clear rules for patternmaking. What's more, the rules work alike for skirts, pants, jackets, and coats and for men's, women's, and children's clothing. For the I-can't-draw-a-straight-line-myself crowd, there are plenty of helpful drafting tools.

Even for the sewer who prefers the timesaving use of commercial patterns to developing one's own, a knowledge of patternmaking is essential. Without it, one is slave to the bought pattern; with it, free to make such changes as one desires. Most important of all, understanding what you are working with will give an independence in design, construction, and yes even in fitting.

It is my hope that the simple nontechnical instructions for patternmaking contained in this book will open the door to a new world in which sewers may find creative excitement in executing their own designs."

Adele Pollock Margolis

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

There is just nothing else to say after that, except pick one up at Amazon.com or your neighborhood bookstore. It is presently selling on Amazon for $13.57 plus shipping. Here is a link to all of her books that Amazon is now featuring...Adele Margolis books on Amazon. Buy one, buy a few, you won't be disappointed!

The next book I received is "Chanel A Woman of Her Own" by Axel Madison. I bought this one because I just read The Collection by Gioia Diliberto. I wanted to read a biography about Chanel instead of a fictionalized account. This was one of the suggested readings in the bibliography for The Collection. Again, I've only skimmed the book, mostly looking at the pictures. I never realized that Coco was a very pretty woman. I am use to seeing her in the pictures taken during the 1950s and 1960s. There are quite a few of her as a very young woman and I can now see how she attracted so many men! *LOL*

So that's what's new on my bookshelves...I hope you will be inspired to pick up some of the Adele Margolis books for yourself and any biography of a fashion designer is always a good addition to your library, IMHO.

As for sewing, I haven't done any and I'm really tired today. It was a loooooooong work week. Later on, if I feel like it, I may do some more hand work on the "Menswear Lace" dress and I would like to finish it up this weekend. Otherwise, I am just winging it!

Enjoy your sewing journeys today and every day!