JAM #4 - Simplicity 2958 Again

I like the versatility of this jacket and I knew I was going to make it again.  Although not from this fabric, since I have another piece picked out to use with this pattern for the spring/summer season.  Anyway, this piece was shouting loudly while I was rummaging around in the fabric closet so it became JAM #4:

Originally I was going to make a dress to wear with the jacket but I didn't have the right shade of green in my fabric closet (and for some crazy reason I wouldn't buy another piece), I'd also pulled a blue linen to go with the original but then wondered if the two pieces were too bright together...nixed yellow linen for the same reason.  I guess that was for the best since my vanilla silk twill dress works so well with the jacket:

Some stats:

Fabric:
2 yards of cotton lycra blend

Notions:
10 - 7/8" vanilla buttons
scraps of fusible knit interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply

The good thing about sewing with TNT patterns is that you don't have to think about the construction process.  You lay the pattern down, cut the fabric out and sew it up.  Because the construction process has been simplified you have time to play with the design of the garment...and that's how this version has a double row of buttons down the front.

As I was putting the front facing on the jacket, I was considering button choices.  I really wanted a quiet button since the floral fabric is speaking so loudly.  After searching through the button collection, I found a soft vanilla button that gave me the look I desired.  The final touch was to add a double line of topstitching to the jacket.  I used a twin needle and stitched around the entire jacket, as well as, the sleeve hems.

Now that I'm only three jackets behind in the JAM, I will get back to the PYT dress.  I need to do some pattern alterations to my TNT dress pattern to get the look of the dress I saw.  Also the PYT was wearing it belted, I think to take up some of the space, since it seemed a little loose on her...of course you know there won't be a belt on my version! *LOL*

A few more pics of me wearing the jacket & dress:

...as always, more later

JAM #2 - Simplicity 2958

This is my second version of this jacket (if we don't include the black doubleknit wadder!) and I've changed up a few details for this one.  I really like this pattern because it has good bones...the ability to be reimagined into whatever I feel like...and I already have a third version on the drawing board in a nice silk for summer.  I love, love, love the raglan sleeves which are becoming a personal fave of mine for ease of movement, ability to fit and for the way they look on my plus size body!

Some stats:

Pattern:
Simplicity 2958

Fabric:
Italian doublefaced wool from Metro Textiles

Notions:
Bias binding made from fabric
scraps of black silk organza for interfacing
1.5 yards rayon seam binding
5 - 1" buttons
12" of 1/4" elastic

Construction:
As mentioned in the previous posts on this jacket, I've changed the jacket fronts so that they have a button front.  I've also omitted the collar in this version, too...although I really like the collar and it will probably make an appearance in a future jacket.

This jacket is unlined since the fabric is a doublefaced wool.  I could have used either the lighter side or the black side but I went with the darker side because it fits into my wardrobe.  I also thought about using flat felled seams and making the jacket reversible.  This idea stayed with me for quite awhile but when I went to construct the garment, that idea just wasn't speaking to me.  So the darker side became the predominant one.

The sleeve hems seemed wider and fuller than on this jacket...maybe it's because I made them longer and to be folded back on themselves last time.  For this version, I could have taken the sleeve seams in and slimmed them down but I wasn't feeling that.  Instead I remembered a Vogue pattern where the jacket's sleeves had an elastic casing in the hemline and I thought it would be an interesting look.  So I made a one inch casing and added the elastic to it.  I love this look and it's different from anything presently in my wardrobe.

I also didn't use any of the facings provided in the pattern envelope.  I wanted a clean finishing that wouldn't clash with the inside of the jacket.  After fishing around in my bias binding trims drawer, it hit me that I could reverse the fabric and make bias binding that would be perfect for the jacket.  Since the fabric is a little thick, it was challenging to make the bias binding.  I needed a lot of steam and a very liberal use of my clapper to get it to lay properly but it was worth the effort because I like the effect on the jacket front.

Alot of buttons were auditioned for the front of the jacket.  I wanted them to be as distinctive as the fabric yet able to hold their own.  I had these buttons in a black outer ring/white inner ring combination but they faded into the fabric where these stood out but still mimicked the pattern of the fabric that was rather kewl.  I also made the buttonholes so that they run vertically down the front of the jacket instead of horizontally.  Again, something a little different from the norm.

The jacket fronts were interfaced with scraps of black silk organza instead of fusible interfacing.  Besides the choices I made to make the jacket my own, it was an easy construction...as always, I overthought the particulars but I'm happy with the end result...especially since it works so well with garments in my wardrobe...

...with my little black dress...

...with my black wool crepe pants...

...and with my black Burda pleated front skirt...

...nevermind the other three black skirts in my wardrobe.  So this is my second Jacket of the Month..only 10 more to go to reach my goal of 12 this year! *LOL*  And even though it's wool, it's perfect for the weather here now...because even though the calendar says spring...it's still around 30 degrees F. here on the East Coast.

...as always, more later!


 

Simplicity 2958 - Done!

Finally!  I've managed to get a completed jacket from this pattern.  So pictures first:

SWAP beige wool crepe dress w/jacket

Another shot of dress w/jacket

Back view

Stats:

Fabric:
2 yards of woven boucle from Parons Fabrics
2 yards rayon bemberg lining

Notions:
5 - 7/8" domed cranberry buttons
5 - 1" snaps
Rayon hem tape

I feel like I've been blogging about this jacket forever!  As you know the first version out of the black doubleknit was a fail.  And this version has had button drama - but it's done and will be worn to work next week.  This is a short week so I won't be "dressing" for work.

Some construction details:

The jacket is fully lined.  No, the pattern doesn't call for lining and I ended up improvising and honestly jerry rigging the lining.  Because I chose to line the sleeves separately from the body of the jacket, using the Nancy Zieman method of lining just the sleeves...

I forgot that without a collar and a facing piece there would be no way to cover the raw edges at the sleeve/neckline edge. So I had to add a lining piece and then hand stitch everything down. 

Now I debated whether or not to share that with you...especially since you would never see it but I like to be real with my sewing and since lining jackets is not one of my strengths ~ it's definitely a hit or miss proposition ~ I wanted you to see that I truly jerry-rigged this lining.  Again this is a case of don't do what I do, sew better! *LOL*

I would like to make this jacket again and will definitely line it by bagging the lining.  I really should have thought that lining situation out better.  However, once I got the sleeves in and turned up, I liked it so much that I just let it be.  This way also required a lot of handsewing.  One of the things that I did think about was encasing the armhole in binding to cover the seam but when I attempted to apply it, it pulled horribly on the back of the jacket - so I let that idea go and went with the hand stitching.

The second challenge I had with this jacket and one that almost made me throw it in the garbage - was that my machine would just not make buttonholes on the completed front.  No matter what I did, add paper beneath them...attempted to sew them from the inside out...change the order in which they were sewn...nuthin' worked.  Plus after removing all of those stitches a couple of times, I was worried that I was ruining the fabric because it is a loosely woven boucle.  I finally broke down and stitched the buttons down then added snaps. 

This jacket is in no way perfect.  But it's very wearable, comfortable and it achieves the look I was going for ~ so I'm content with it.  Also it works with two different dresses...the ivory silk twill dress and the beige wool crepe SWAP dress, plus a pair of beige wool crepe pants in my wardrobe. 

The coordinating cranberry dress never materialized.  I just didn't feel like pushing the sewing this weekend...instead I started crocheting a scarf to go with my new winter coat.

A parting shot:

No photography goes on in my apt these days without The Little Prince getting involved.  He's learned to say "cheese" and does it everytime a camera comes out! *LOL*

...as always, more later!

A Button Journey

Back to the Simplicity Jacket that's sitting waiting to be finished...

It needed buttons and I didn't have anything (can you believe it?!) in my extensive button stash!  And since the jacket needs button jewelry I decided to hit up M&J after work to see if I could find something special.  I brought home two choices:

paperclip buttons

leather flowers

But I was really unhappy with both choices...the buttons kind of melted into the fabric.  They are both amazing buttons and I will probably use them on future garments but not exactly what I was looking for.  So I remembered that LindsayT did a blog post on Botani Buttons and I decided that I would venture down there at lunchtime and see if I could find something better.

This time though I took the time to look at a few button sites to get a better idea of what kind of button I was looking for...so armed with a picture of the jacket and a few new ideas I took the A train down to Times Square and walked over to 36th Street. 

I don't know if I've ever been in Botani Buttons before but people I'm in love!  LindsayT did not exaggerate the wonders that is this button shop.  It actually reminds me of how the button shops use to look in the district before they started to disappear.  The shop has one section totally devoted to handbag fixings, locks in all shapes, sizes and metals, chains, feet...seriously, I have never seen so many different kinds of feet for the bottom of a handbag! 

Moving to the next room, I was in button heaven.  There are buttons in boxes lining the walls.  There are tables of buttons in all shapes, colors, sizes, geometric shapes...*sigh*  Natural materials like shell and coconut buttons...plastics in amazing colors...buttons covered in rhinestones...and buttons on rounders like at the craft store...I got a bowl and started to shop...and then I started to edit...cause I went a little crazy! *LOL*  I was in button heaven, y'know! 

These are the choices that came home with me today:

These golden ones have a scored center

these wooden ones add a nice pop of color

but DD#2 didn't like them on the jacket

and these cranberry domed plastic buttons

One of the choices from today will go on the jacket because I wanted more of a pop of color, something that stood out against the busy fabric of the jacket.  But I have to tell you that Botani Buttons will now be my go to shop for buttons.  The women in the store were way more helpful than the staff in M&J (which is a constant problem there) it must be me right?  No one else gets ignored and basically brushed off when they are being helped, right?  Whereas in Botani, they answered questions, looked for prices and offered thoughtful opinions on my button choices.  Just how I prefer Daytona Trimmings or Pacific for purchasing trims...I will use Botani for buttons.  That other place isn't the only game in town, y'know! 

I didn't mean to turn this into a mini rant, I really just wanted you to encourage you to visit Botani the next time you are in the city.  Bring a list because any button or finding that you need can be found right here!  Two more quick things...and then I'm out.  The store is well lit and well organized ~ two really big pluses to me besides the great customer service and outrageous supply.  Lastly, not only do they cover buttons and buckles but they dye them to match too!  Somehow I missed that fact when I read Lindsay's review.

The jacket will be finished up this weekend and I have a piece of cranberry doubleknit that I want to use to make a dress to go with it.  Guess the fact that I have so much in my wardrobe that matches the jacket doesn't matter, does it!  *LOL*  I need a new piece!

It's a short work week...since this year I took a vacation day for the friday after Thanksgiving and I will be avoiding the Black Friday sales.  I will be safely esconced at home working on a sewing project...which one?  I haven't a clue...but I will work that out this week...

...more later!

You asked...and I answered!

Audrey left this comment on my last post:
"I am really interested in what kind of interfacing, if any, you used in this soft sweatery look jacket. I have some similar, loosely woven tweeds that I would like to make into jackets and whether or not to use interfacing on these types of fabrics has me stumped."

I was looking to make a soft, sweatery type jacket.  Something a little more structured than my cardigans but still soft and comfortable like a sweater. To get that effect, I decided NOT to interface the body of the jacket because I didn't want to lose the soft drapability that this fabric offers.  However, I did interface the heck out of the stresspoints.

For example, here is the jacket front:

front with silk organza on the center front

back with fusible knit interfacing

Not only is there interfacing at the raglan sleeves but also at the neckline...and I added a piece of silk organza in the front band to give it a flexible stiffness which will allow me to make firm buttonholes but not alter the hand of the fabric...there is also interfacing at the hemline.

The sleeve is interfaced at all of the stresspoints ~ the hemline, the armholes and the top.

I used 1" or 5/8" strips cut from Pro-Weft Fusible interfacing purchased from Pam at www.FashionSewingSupply.com.  Yes, this involved alot of pressing but I have to tell you that assembling this puppy was a breeze because with everything interfaced, there was no worry about stretching any of the seams out during the construction process.

Here is where the jacket stands now ~ and I would like to thank Lulu for standing in for me:

I'm headed to the garment district this week because I want a really spectacular closing to add some wow to the front of the jacket.  I already have two dresses that will work with this jacket, a pair of pants and a skirt so I don't have to make any accompanying pieces.  Once it's finished it will be ready to be worn...

I have to tell you that if I was attempting to make one of the collarless set-in sleeve jackets that I featured a few posts back, I would have either fuse blocked ALL of the jacket pieces or taken the fabric to be fused in NYC and then cut the pieces out.  To get that look with this particular piece of fabric it would have needed a lot of interfaced support.

Julie C. asked:
"Won't the addition of 2" to the front and back make the neckline too large?"

No the additional inches made the jacket fronts overlap and allowed the back to lay flat.  After measuring, the "too many dislikes" jacket, I realized that I needed to add inches to not only the front but the back of the jacket to give it the look I wanted.  There might have been some challenges if I had added the collar but it was included in the dislike category!

This is where I am now...there is quite a bit of hand sewing that needs to be done and I have to find the "perfect" closures for the jacket. 

*******************************************************

Finally, I wanted to say a very heartfelt thank you for all of the lovely compliments that everyone left on the Birthday Gala Dress.  It is so nice to know that fellow sewists appreciate your work especially when you pour your heart and soul into a garment.  Thanks so much!

...more later!

    

In Search of a Relaxed Fit Jacket

Even though I featured several versions of a collarless jacket with set-in sleeves in my last post, in actuality I prefer a jacket with raglan sleeves.  I don't know if it has to do with how much activity I do during the day at work or the fact that I have very plump biceps but I am just more comfortable in a raglan sleeve jacket.

So yesterday when I was trying to figure out what to work on next, I saw this really cute sweater jacket on Dillards' site and I thought that's what I really want!  A jacket that has that soft, sweatery look and is slightly more constructed than the cardigans I adore but will still work with the dresses, skirts and pants in my wardrobe.  To that end, I went rumbling around in the fabric closet looking for a great tweedy knit to use for my version of the Dillards' sweater jacket.

Up on the top shelf of the closet this piece winked at me:

Now this piece has been in the closet for at least five years and I truly thought it was a knit.  So I grabbed it...pulling down several other pieces in the process...convinced that it was a knit and would make a great sweater jacket.  Only after getting it into my hands did I realize that it was a very soft tweedy WOVEN.

Did that stop me from using this fabric, heck no!  Obviously it was time to leave it's flat fold status behind and move into the 3D world!  What I actually said to my daughter was that if it worked out fine...and if it didn't that was okay too because I have plenty more fabric...an understatement right?! *LOL*

Now I've been promising an update of the black doubleknit version of Simplicity 2958 jacket...but the problem is that I really don't like this jacket as is...and I have no motivation to make it better because...

~ it's too short
~ it annoys me that it doesn't close in the front
~ the sleeves are too short
~ and I don't like the funny little collar

...this jacket has wadder written all over it...but I hate wadders.  I always try to rescue them or rework them but I'm crying uncle on this one because it has way too many "don't likes."  However, I am still intrigued by the jacket pattern primarily because of the raglan sleeves.  So what to do?  Why alter the heck out of the pattern to get the look that I want.

The Pattern Alterations:

* I added 2" at the waistline on both the front and back pattern pieces.

* An additional 2" were added to the hemline of both the front and back pieces.

* Two inches were added to the center front of the jacket front.

* I also added 2" to the center back piece.

So here is what the front piece looked like out of the envelope:

and here is the altered front piece:

The back piece out of the envelope:

the final back piece:

I know I originally said that this pattern would work for me right out of the envelope...and I guess it would if I wanted a too short, too tight, funny looking jacket (if you aren't catching it I'm saying I was wrong here people! *LOL*)...but the pattern alterations make it much more appropriate for me now.

Since I'm such a tease and this post is getting quite long, I will leave you with a picture of the jacket...and talk about the construction of said jacket in the next post...

I guess I wanted complicated rather than easy after all...

....as always, more later!

Simplicity 2958 - The Jacket

I've had this pattern in my collection for years because I've always wanted to make the dress. 

Every spring it goes on my "to sew" list usually with a piece of fabric from the collection attached to it.  Every fall both the pattern and the fabric get placed back into their respective piles to await another opportunity to be used.

After making the sewcation pieces, I kept feeling like they needed a jacket to finish off the wardrobe.  Something black...something short and flirty...just an easy little topper that would work with all of the pieces.  I thought I had 1.5 yards of the black double knit left and that I would be able to get the jacket out of it...but my first choice Vogue 1100 just wouldn't play along with me.

So I went hunting through the pattern stacks and my hand fell upon this pattern.  It had some of the elements that I was looking for and it seemed like it would be quick and easy.  It also fit on the scraps of fabric I had left to use!  If I had procrastinated a little less Monday evening I would have finished it up, that's how quickly and easily it went together.  This is where it stands right now:

Don't you hate black because you can't see any details!

I like this pattern for a couple of reasons ~ the little peter pan collar, the raglan sleeves and even the faux welt pockets could be amazing if done right.  True it doesn't have a lining but I could put one in anyway.  

But what really won me over is that as I started sewing the jacket, idea upon idea started to come to me about things I could do with this jacket...lengthen it, add a lining, add a pleat in the back, pipe the collar and faux pockets, bind the entire thing...  It also didn't hurt that the pattern fit right out of the envelope.  No sleeve bicep adjustments, no enlarging it to cover my tummy...it just worked.

So I will be finishing this one up over the weekend and probably starting another one using one of those aforementioned ideas!  I love a pattern that speaks loudly and lovingly to me when I start using it!

...more later!