Sunday Best

When I picked up this wool/poly blend gingham from Mood, I knew exactly what I wanted it to be.  A sleeveless version of my TNT dress with white piping...

I played around with several other options but I kept coming back to this simple silhouette which highlights the fabric because that's what I really wanted ~ to highlight the fabric.  Here are a few ginghams from the Mood online store.

I saw this picture of gingham style outfits in the November 2013 issue of Vogue Magazine and I knew I was on the right track.  Even when making my wool boucle jacket, I knew that I really wanted the two pieces to work together...

Notions ~
White bemberg lining
22" pink invisible zipper
White rayon seam binding
White bias binding
White satin piping

Construction Information ~
Since this dress is made from my TNT dress pattern, which I've made quite a few times already, it was a simple sew. After I pre-treated the poly/wool blend fabric, I had a few decisions to make. I couldn't decide whether to go simple and let the fabric speak or add some obvious embellishment like lace. I finally went with simple because it can be dressed up or down. So the dress is lined with white bemberg rayon lining. It has an invisible zipper closure and white piping at the neckline and armholes. All of these techniques have been reviewed here in other blog posts. Highlighting the amazing piece of fabric was what I really wanted and what I went for in the end.

At one point the boucle and the gingham fabric were laying on the sewing table together so it was just natural to make the dress to coordinate with the jacket.  Plus doesn't my pink hat look amazing with the two pieces?  And even though it's fall, I definitely have a pastel vibe going on which is also a trend for fall.

A few more pictures of the jacket, dress and hat...

I know that many sewists enjoy the challenge of making a variety of patterns. Me, I just wanna sew and own a lot of clothes.  Yeah I said it! *LOL* When a silhouette works for me and can be made on trend through fabric and styling, I'm going for it using a TNT pattern over and over every time!  Most people who don't sew don't even notice that it's the same silhouette/pattern anyway.

One more thing...about the photos.  These were taken with the new camera on the same day that the last post's pics were, so I had no opportunity to put the tips that everyone so generously shared into action.  I do understand about the shade/cloudy day, golden hours of photography giving the best pictures but I have to admit that I like the drama of the sharp background highlighting the garment. I can honestly tell you that we took 100+ photos last Sunday. Then my daughter and I sat in front of the computer and culled it down to about 30 pics. After that we culled again, then cropped and changed the exposure on some, that's how the final pictures were chosen. 

I won't belabor the taking of photos in too many more posts because it's getting colder and honestly I'm going to have to head inside soon. I felt so bad last Sunday because at one point my granddaughter kept going "Mama I'm cold!" to her mother, the photographer. So the bad is coming soon peoples ~ cause I still have to learn how to take pics with a remote by myself. I'm sure that's going to be an adventure unto itself! *LOL*

Lastly, I have one more dress that I want to make and it's not from the Five in Five collection.  I fell in love, seriously head over heels in love with this dress from the latest Vogue Pattern release...and I HAVE to make it now. 

Vogue 1370

I've ordered the pattern and am waiting for it arrive...I have an idea that I'm chomping at the sewing machine to make.  I'm also going to make a muslin, yes you heard me...a muslin for the Butterick coat.  I want to make this correctly, no jerry-rigging so look for that muslin soon!  Shew that was alot right? 

...as always more later!  

60s Inspired Wool Boucle Jacket

I found this awesome wool boucle on the Third Floor of Mood's NYC store.  I know people have favorite sections of the store but me, I love the third floor because it's magical!  You never know what you'll find there and every time I climb the stairs, I find the most amazing treats.

To be honest, I've had this piece for a minute.  When Todd pulled it off the rack for me, I squealed with joy because not only is it a beautiful creamy medium weight boucle but it's also backed with interfacing. And yes, Lauren this is the piece that I tried, begged & pleaded with you to buy but you passed.  Ummm, next time you'll listen to me about everything, right?!  *LOL*

Peoples when I find a fabric that's backed with interfacing it's like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.  It's like the Holy Grail of fabrics - one to be wished and hoped for...to be ever in search of...because a pre-fused piece of fabric is so wonderful to work with that like a druggie looking for a fix...I'm constantly in search of it!  *LOL*

Now I know you think I'm being extreme but I'm not...cause I purchased 2.5 yards of this loveliness...

...and this is what I made!

Patterns used to make this jacket ~
Vogue 2285 - circa 1999 and vintage 60s Simplicity 5144

Notions ~
White bemberg lining
Black & White polka dot silk used in the faux pockets 
White rayon seam tape
3/4" shoulder pads

All of the construction details regarding the sewing of this jacket are included in this post.  I didn't make any changes from my first version of this jacket but it was wonderful having a road map to assist me with it.  I made this one closer to the pattern envelope's illustration...not including any closures.  My original version did have closures on it ~ buttons backed with fabric covered snaps.

The thing I love the most about this jacket is the faux welt pockets with the black polka dot fabric inserts.  Aren't they kewl?  Of course, the instruction sheet for the Vintage Simplicity Pattern explains exactly how to accomplish this so that even a newbie could handle making these.  It's one of the things I love about vintage patterns, they have the kewlest details that really make the finished garment special.

Here is a close up of the details of the jacket modeled on Lulu.  Not only is this jacket on trend ~ vanilla is hot, hot, hot for fall/winter ~ but it goes with so many garments already living in my closet.  Another plus!  And doesn't that pin look fantastic with the jacket?!  I have loads of pins collected over the years that will work well with the jacket too.

A few more pictures of the jacket in action...

Thanks for all of the photography tips on my last post. I will be putting them to good use. Amy & Marce I will remember about direct sunlight but all that talk about lens was like alien speak to me!  LOL!  And here I thought direct sunlight was better than shade or a cloudy day even...not to mention ignoring the fact that all of my neighbors were staring at me like I was crazy cause you know people stand in the street posing with two little kids running around screaming and the photographer going don't move, don't move in a very loud voice! 

Finally here's a sneak peek at my next make which will be featured on The Mood Sewing Network tomorrow.

...as always more later!

60s Inspired Vintage Boucle Jacket - Construction

The best thing about using a previously sewn pattern is that you can just cut and sew.  Your biggest problem is will the design idea work like you want it to.  I wrote my last post about choosing this jacket with this thought process...12 hours on Sunday another 4 on Monday and another 4 on Tuesday gives me 16 hours of sewing time.  Personally I can make a jacket (lined or unlined) in that amount of time from a previously sewn pattern.  8-10 hours is all I really need...y'know after I finish kicking and screaming! *LOL*

So these are the two patterns that I'm using to make my 60's vintage inspired wool boucle jacket:

And these are the fabrics...cream wool boucle already backed with fusible knit purchased from Moods 3rd floor (love that floor!) in the NYC store:

Here is the silk from the collection that I'm using to peek through the faux welt pockets:

The jacket will be lined with a cream colored bemberg rayon lining also from the collection:

Pattern Alteration and Construction ~
The first thing I needed to do was to alter the jacket sleeve.  Since the sleeve on the Vogue circa 1999 pattern and the vintage Simplicity pattern both have a one piece sleeve, I used the sleeve from my dress pattern to make a pattern sandwich to create a new sleeve for the jacket. This will solve my bodacious bicep issues.

Added a center back seam to the jacket back pattern piece.

Then the jacket fronts and backs were constructed the same way described in this post.  So this is what the jacket shell looks like now.  The only change I made this time was to use smaller pieces of fabric for the welt pocket windows.  Since I'm using a black 'n white polka dot fabric that is dark, I didn't want the fabric to show through the lining or the jacket front.

The jacket was assembled and then the sleeves sewn in.  I'm working on adding the lining now but just wanted to give an update on the construction of the jacket prior to it's reveal.

I'm really thrilled with it so far.  It was a good choice for my Mood project because the jacket pattern's fit issues had already been resolved and I like the interesting details that are featured on the jacket front.  Also it really helped that the fabric was already backed with fusible interfacing. 

I love these types of fabric cuts and always try to purchase them when I find one. One less step to do when working on a jacket project.  If you find a fabric that's backed with interfacing, I highly recommend that you purchase it.

...as always more later!

What to do? What to do?

So it's Saturday and I've got a pile of fabric from Mood sitting on my cutting table begging me to see something in them so that I can sew up something marvelous and have it photographed by Wednesday. See I had a project...a perfectly good project but it's a little too involved for my due date.  

I purchased the perfect fabric to make my perfect lavender transitional coat...but sickness did me in.  Gawd, I was even going to make a muslin. Bought actual muslin fabric and everything.  I nevah muslin so to say I'm disappointed that I'm not working on this project is an overstatement.  However, I will make it later on cause I really want that coat!

Now though, my self picked Mood date is approaching and here I sit trying to make it work. I've been sewing for the Mood Network for over a year now and this is the first time that sickness has derailed me.  I've been late because a garment was more intricate than I originally thought and picked another date but I've never sat in the sewing cave wondering what the hell could I sew!

I had an idea and I thought it would work until I put my two pieces of fabric side by side and they didn't play as well together as I thought they would. Back to the drawing board.  I really want a dress/jacket combo but I will need a jacket pattern that I've made before so all of my fit issues have been resolved and I have precious few of those that I presently like.  But now that I've gotten the idea in my head I can't get it out.

So I go pawing through all of the patterns that I've made for the last five years and I find this one ~ Vogue 2285 which is so out of print it's pitiful.  The pattern's copyright date is 1999 but I used it as the basis to make a vintage inspired jacket back in 2008 which became part of my Easter Outfit that year.

I've always wanted to make another jacket like it but improve upon the sleeve fit, which is what ultimately did that jacket in.  Also, I really like the faux welt pockets or slot seams that the jacket uses.  I could make this and have it photographed by Wednesday evening.  Here is a picture of the vintage jacket that inspired the original jacket and this new one...

The fabric I've chosen will work with quite a few pieces already in my wardrobe so I won't need to make a second piece to accompany it.  Finally the only pattern work I will need to do is enlarge the sleeve pattern which I'm going to do by using a sleeve pattern piece that presently works. Thankfully I blogged the entire construction process here back in 2008.

Now it's time to clear off the sewing table and make the magic happen...hahahahaha!

...as always more later!

A Win and a Fail

You know that old adage, "Do you want the good news or the bad news first?" I always go with the bad news first because if someone is asking that question, the good news is never really good news...at least in my experience. So this post is about the final two Chado Ralph Rucci pieces...and I'm going to start with the "Fail" of the title first or the bad news...

First though let's recap ~
I purchased three panels of the Chado Ralph Rucci Wool Doubleknit fabric from Moods NYC store after seeing it on Moods' Instagram feed. Initially I had no idea what I would make with it.  After deciding upon the dress, I still had quite a bit of yardage left.  So I thought a jacket and skirt combo would allow me to play with the purple stripe that's a main feature of this fabric.  My last post was about the dress so this one is all about the suit.

The Fail...

I chose a jacket pattern that I'd used before - Vogue 8209 which is out of print - because the lines worked well with the fabric.  All of the construction details for the jacket are in this post.  This jacket is unlined without any closures. The fabric doesn't really need a lining and that works well with my pattern choice.

Just like the dress, pattern placement was the key to using the fabric effectively. For the jacket I ran the purple stripes down the front and then used the leftover pieces of fabric to cut the sleeves. I thought it would add some interest to the jacket.

However, after taking these photos, I realized that I would NEVAH EVAH wear these two pieces together, they really are "too artsy" for my workplace.  But I did realize that I could separate the pieces and wear them with other garments from my wardrobe.

The jacket pictured with a black ponte dress from my closet...

The Win...
I went with my TNT straight skirt pattern for the second piece.  This allowed me to come up with a suit, a suit that I now know I'm not going to wear. However, this piece will work with a black twinset that is presently in my closet and this is how I would wear it...

Honestly after allowing the jacket and skirt to sit, I will be removing the sleeves from the jacket.  Even though I got the sleeves out of the remaining scraps of fabric, and it seemed like a good idea at the time, I now know it's not.  One of my thoughts is to add some of the black pleather in the collection to the sleeves...it's a thought...but if I do the jacket will forever be relocated to a weekend look...so I'll see.

I love the skirt and will wear it with a black twinset because this look works for me and my lifestyle.  I also have a purple twinset that will go with this skirt so with some tights and my black wedge booties it will be a great Friday look.  

Either way the jacket needs to be revamped, so that it can become a viable member of my wardrobe or dissembled to see if there is another option for it.

In conclusion...
The dress and the skirt were the best items made from the Chado Ralph Rucci wool doubleknit fabric.  The jacket is still up in the air. But I thought it was important to document my failures as well as my successes...because even though I have good intentions, not everything works! Sometimes the fabric/pattern combo trips you up...sometimes the fabric/fit combo doesn't work...I'm sure you know what I mean! *smile*

Anyway, I'm onto my next project so stay tuned...

...as always more later!

The Pleather Cardigan and Herringbone Skirt

Let's recap...

I'm on Mood's Instagram account and I see this fabric...

from Mood's Instagram account

...Mood calls it black vinyl...me I call it kewl, unbelievably kewl lacey pleather. I bought 1/2 yard from the NYC store.  I thought that I would use it for a peplum on a jacket but then I got another idea. See I had some black ponte from Mood that I'd been hoarding. Yeah I'll admit it, I have ponte issues, okay?! And when I put the two pieces together ~ the earth moved.  Seriously registered on the Richter Scale...didn't you feel it?

Then I added my TNT jacket pattern to it ~ Butterick 6002. 

I've made this jacket successfully two times before ~ here and here. All of the trials and tribulations for constructing this particular jacket are in this post.

The jacket over my cranberry Michael Kors interpretation dress...

I have to tell you that I'm in awe of how amazing this little jacket looks...over everything. It is so dayum cool, I am beside myself. Yeah it's a little edgy for my corporate day job but so what!  I won't wear it on days that we have very corporate meetings.  I'll wear it on the days that I need to feel corporate-ish yet stylish...and I do meet friends for movies and dinner dates...it would be great then too!

Here it is with two of fall's trends together...

Pleather Jacket and a Black & White Herringbone Skirt

A little info about the skirt...
This version was definitely influenced by the Pinstripe Skirt from last week's Throwback Thursday post.  Originally I was going to make a straight skirt with the black & white herringbone but when I laid the fabric on the table all I could see was the chevron pattern above.  So I knew it needed to become the four gore skirt ~ cut on the bias.

Fabric...
2 yards of a black & white wool herringbone purchased from Mood last year and originally used in this Erdem dress.

Notions...
1" non-roll elastic
black bemberg lining
black rayon seam tape

Construction Information...
I emulated all of the sewing techniques that I highlighted in the Throwback Thursday post, except I did not fold the rayon seam tape in half before stitching it to the skirt.

There are quite a few of these skirts in my wardrobe.  It's comfortable to wear and just works for my lifestyle.

A few more pics of the outfit...

Please note that I'm wearing tights and suede booties with this outfit...indoors...cause I was so hot that I was melting in the house in the air conditioning!  There was no way I was going outside to take photos!!!

Yes, I've used this pattern before.  Yes, I'm using pleather again but it's so hot for fall.  It's everywhere ~ dresses, jackets, shoes & handbags.  I can promise that you'll see more pleather accents on my garments for fall/winter. I've got at least three more items on my sewing list that I'd like to sew.  I'd just like to encourage you to use some (a little or a lot) for one of your own fall garments!  If you've never sewn pleather, come on over to the dark side (dark side get it! hahaha!) and try it out.

Parting Shot ~
I bought these wedge booties and love them!  Just bought another pair in gray...

...as always more later!

The Chado Ralph Rucci Wool Double Knit Dress

This garment is ALL about the fabric.  This amazing Chado Ralph Rucci wool double knit fabric was posted on Moods' Instagram account a couple of weeks ago. After some discussion online, some drooling and a desire that just wouldn't go away, I went to Mood and purchased three panels or 4 3/4 yards of fabric. C'mon it's Chado Ralph Rucci fabric and you KNOW how much I love his designs!!! 

It's an awesome piece of fabric with a lot of possibility so I went through several ideas of how to use the fabric to its best advantage.  I finally settled on the idea of sewing a variation of my TNT dress pattern along with a suit comprised of a jacket & a straight skirt.  This post is all about the dress.

The Pattern ~
I started with a version of my TNT dress called The Whitney Dress. As you know, the first one was made in a brown wool crepe with an orange top stitching embellishment that I made shortly after Whitney Houston died. For this one, I made the fabric the main attraction.

Notions ~
1 - 22" purple invisible zipper
black rayon seam tape
black bemberg lining
1" black lace

Construction ~
First can I say that this fabric was easy to sew.  The thread just sunk into the seams and it pressed easily.  It is a mid to heavy weight fabric so this dress will be perfect when the temps drop.  I took photos both inside and outside ~ outside being the most miserable because I was hot, hot, hot in this dress. I've included both sets of pictures in this post because seriously if I had made the dress in season, I would have had on stockings or tights and there would have been falling leaves in the background...so imagine! *LOL*

Now one of the differences between this version and the original is that I've added bracelet length sleeves to it.  The purple sleeve bands work well with the purple inserts.  Actually this is one of my favorite features of the dress.

To effectively use the purple on the back of the dress, I added a stripe down the back of the dress.  It adds length and contrast to the back.

The thing is this is a basic black dress with purple accents - well placed purple accents - but accents just the same.  Construction details are in this post but here are a few highlights.

• The dress is cut a little smaller than my normal TNT dress pattern because I wanted a closer fit for this dress.
• I used the same v-neckline as the Whitney Dress.
• The dress is lined in black bemberg and hemmed with 1" black lace trim.
• Instead of sleeveless like the original dress, I've added bracelet length sleeves to this version so the dress can be worn without a topper.  I really don't want to hide any of the design features of the dress. Plus the dress is warm so unless the temps drop really low this winter, I won't need to layer.
• The dress skirt front has a center front seam. I did that because I needed to get all of the pieces out of the fabric.
• The purple accents was accomplished by careful and well thought out pattern layout and cutting.  

The neckline view

The main body of the dress is lined.

The sleeves are unlined.

Lace added to the lining hemline

A few more pictures of the dress...

Conclusion~
This is a closer fitting dress than I normally wear but I was concerned that since it is a knit that it would grow upon wearing it all day.  I had my daughter laughing because I said that I felt like Oprah in the dress.  Seriously have you seen the dresses she wore while promoting the movie, The Butler? They were v-neckline knit dresses with a close-fit and several of them had color blocking to slim her figure.

I'm really happy with the final dress. This could have gone bad very quickly.  I know y'all think I can sew anything but every time I start a new project, I do take a deep breathe.  Oh and one more thing...don't the shoes look great with the dress?!  Bows, slingbacks and purple...be still my heart! *LOL*

...as always more later!