Do You Jelly Roll???

Let's start out by saying I'm not a quilter.  Even though I've made several "quilting" projects, they're not my top must sews.  However, I love jelly rolls.  The thought of them, how the fabrics play so well together, how they can become so many different things.  

Whenever I see one, the possibilities of what the new yardage can be inspires me.  Especially black & white jelly rolls.  So while I'm not a quilter, I was inspired to buy several jelly rolls and make two yards of fabric from them to create a top.

Supplies used ~

2 packages of black & white Ankara strips purchased from Cultured Expressions.  Each package had 20 strips.

1 yard of solid black cotton fabric from StyleMaker Fabrics for the strips, sleeves and back insert.

7 3/4" buttons purchased several years ago from Pacific Trimmings

1/2" black bias binding also purchased from Pacific Trimmings

First let's discuss making the fabric ~

Honestly, this was the most tedious part of the sew and took me about 4 days to complete. I whined through this part because not only was each seam sewn but they were pressed open, then flat, and serge finished.

  

Here's how I made it ~

1.  Sorted the strips into piles.

2.  Determined how I wanted the layout of the strips to look.

3.  Sewed the strips together using a 1/4" seam. My sewing machine has a 1/4" foot with guide and one without a guide.  Using the one with the guide was SOOOOOOO helpful!

4.  After 11 strips were sewn together, I added a black strip cut in the same dimensions (2.5" x 45") to differentiate the sections.

5.  When each section was sewn, I pressed the strips to the left side.  Then each strip was serge finished. I did this because my yardage will be used for a garment and needs a cleanly finished inside.

6.  Continued this for 3 sections to get the yardage I desired.

You can see I made this yardage during my Christmas break!

Once you decide how much yardage you need - I needed 2 yards to make the top front, back, front facings and sleeve bands - then you can start your garment's construction process.

Since I had all of those seams, I chose a pattern that didn't have a lot of pattern pieces. I didn't want to cut apart the fabric I'd just sewn together. So I started with Anna Allen Clothing's Anthea Blouse.

Design/Construction Changes ~

I need you to know that while this pattern goes up to a size 22, in my opinion, it's not size inclusive. The hip measurement on a size 22 is 51" way below the amount of space I need for a flowy hemline.

I made some simple pattern adjustments to get the top to fit me.

• I'm bigger on the bottom than the top.  So the shoulders and bustline on the size 22 fit with no problem.  My challenge is my abdomen and waist.
• I also had no challenges with the sleeves since the design is for very wide sleeves.
• On the front pattern piece I did a slice and spread from the abdomen to the hemline - spreading the pattern 1" at the hemline.
• To add width to the back, I went with a design technique to get the necessary width. Especially since I needed to go from 51" to 65" at the hemline (this includes ease for wearing). 
• I added an 8" insert to the back that when opened, gave me more than enough space in the abdomen and hip area.
• The back pattern piece says to cut on fold. I cut them as single pieces adding 1/2" seam allowance to both. 
• Then the insert was sewn to either side of the back pieces using a 1/4" seam allowance. 
• I chose a point about 6" down the back and stitched the original two back pattern pieces together using a 1/4" seam allowance. 
• Press flat and open and walah, extra width and cool design feature.
• The last design feature was to cut the sleeves from the solid black fabric and the sleeve bands from the jelly roll fabric. 

A few more things ~

- I did lengthen the blouse by 3" because my comfort level is that everything adequately covers my abdomen and backside.

- I didn't want topstitching to show on my blouse front.  So I hand stitched the bias binding down and didn't include topstitching on the front facings.

- The pattern tells you to double roll the hem and topstitch it down. I used a bias binding to finish the hemline because the bulk in double rolling the hemline would have distracted from the finished look.

I have this thing about "corralling" patterns so your eye has a place to rest. I think it makes the finished garment more appealing to the eye. That is why I used the black sleeves, black strips, and black back insert.

Here are a few pictures ~

I did make a few design decisions that affected the end result but everything was done to highlight the beautiful fabric made from the jelly rolls. This was the only thing I made during my Christmas break.  Making the fabric took 4 days alone, then construction took another 2. I was fine with this project taking up the bulk of my sewing time.

Especially since this is my last post as a Janome Maker.  I've been a Janome Maker for almost three years and it's been a privilege and an honor to rep one of the best sewing machine companies out there. I'd like to thank everyone who worked with me at Janome to make this one of the best experiences ever!

...as always more later!

Vogue 7448 - Out of Print Blouse - Wearable Muslin

I found this blouse pattern in one of the online vintage pattern shops a few years ago. I was looking for a soft 80's type blouse and this one fit the bill. 

I bought it for my old corporate lifestyle to go over a skirt or pair of trousers and under a cardigan. While I liked the pattern, once that lifestyle disappeared I wasn't sure I would be able to use it. Though I wasn't ready to part with it.

Background Information ~
First a little about the pattern ~ the copyright date is 2001. The pattern description says, "Loose-fitting, above-hip length blouse (may be worn tucked in or out) has front-button closing and short sleeves. The back I'm using has a pleat into back yokes and shawl collar."

This pattern has no darts which I will admit had me a little concerned. Also, it's not as loose-fitting as the pattern envelope's picture. Finally let's not forget that kinda lowish (BurdaStyle) neckline. That's why I did something I don't normally do, I made a wearable muslin.

Supplies ~
- A poly print from the collection that has no tag so I have no idea how long it's been there
- silk organza for the interfacing
- blue & white shell buttons from the button collection

Pattern Alterations ~
To add width to the hemline on the front piece, I slit the front stitching line and added 1.75" of space there.

After making the blouse, I went back and added the insert from the bust point to the hemline. 

To the back piece I did a pivot and slide and added 4" to the hemline. I did the pivot and slide on the fabric. Then went back and added the alteration to the pattern, after I knew it worked. 

For the sleeve, I slit it up to the sleeve cap and added 1" to the bicep. Then I added 5" to the length. It was the perfect length to add a hem of 3" and then turn up a 2" cuff.

I shortened the shoulder seam by 1" for my narrower shoulders on the front and back yoke pattern pieces.

Construction ~
I constructed the blouse just like the pattern instructions stated. The only thing I didn't do was handstitch the front down, however, I did handstitch the back neckline down. 

I also added topstitching on the outer collar, down the front and around the hemline.

As I mentioned in the pattern alterations, my sleeves were cut longer than the pattern instructions and I added a 2" cuff to them. I wanted to give the blouse a sporty look with the cuffs.

A few pictures ~

Blouse shown with TNT linen pants

Conclusion ~
This is a pretty good wearable muslin. I think I still need another inch in the the abdomen and hip area for me to be comfortable wearing this as a closed front blouse. I also want to make it about 2" longer - more thigh length. This version comes across as a camp shirt. Once all of the changes were made to the pattern, I wanted to use it with a navy double silk chiffon to make the top and a pair of pants...sort of a jumpsuit look without the jumpsuit all in oneness.

I won't get to this now that the chill is settling in. I have another version of this blouse with longer sleeves and a cuff roaming around in my brain. I want to make it this fall now I have all of the fitting challenges worked out.

Me and Samantha who started Pre-K4 this September

Next up on the blog will be a new fall shirt!

...as always more later!

Vogue 8772 - A Bow Tied Blouse

This is a garment that was inspired by the fabric first. Fabric Mart had these pre-cut fabric bundles that they are now offering with a 20% off discount. I bought and sewed mine before the sale, so of course I've bought two more pieces. The fabric I purchased has sold out in the 3 yard bundles but is still available in 2 yard pieces.

When the fabric arrived I knew that my idea for it would be perfect. I wanted a bow-tied, button down, loose fitting shirt/tunic to wear over leggings or skinny jeans. Perfect for the weather now and add a cardigan in the winter which will make it perfect then too.

So I went looking for a pattern for the blouse...cause I knew I had one in my collection. Ummmm yeah right. I searched EVERYWHERE in ALL of the pattern hiding spots and what I was seeing in my head was NOT in my pattern collection! The only thing I had that might work was Vogue 8772 which is a close-fitting, bow tie blouse with darts.

I was hoping to avoid extensive pattern alterations. I looked through the patterns again to see if there was something else that I could use but the vision I had was to strong.  So I resigned myself to using this pattern and making the alterations.

Supplies ~
2.75 yards of rayon/cotton crepe from Fabric Mart
(I originally purchased 3 yards and it shrunk that much in length during the prewash!)
1/2" covered buttons
lightweight fusible interfacing for cuffs

Pattern Alterations ~
1. First I determined that I wanted 10" of ease around my bottom area...remember I wanted loose fitting tunic/blouse. 

2. To achieve that I removed the side curve on both the front and back pieces by adding an inch from the dart down in the front pattern piece and from the underarm down on the back piece.

3. On the front piece, I did a slice and spread in the front gaining 3" at the hip line and almost 4" at the hemline.

4. The back was also cut using a pivot and slide of 1.5" on the actual fabric. That helped me achieve the desired 10" of ease around the bottom of the blouse.

5. I wanted fuller sleeves than the pattern has and I needed to add space to the biceps area. So I just sliced the sleeve pattern up the center and spread ~ adding an inch to the bicep area and 2" at the hemline. The excess fabric in the sleeve was gathered into the cuff ignoring the pleat application the pattern suggests.

Cutting and Construction ~
I have a rule when cutting out a print, all of the pattern pieces must go in the same direction.  All pattern pieces either face up or down ~ not any which way, to insure that the print runs the same direction throughout the garment.

As I was laying the pattern pieces onto the fabric, I realized that I hadn't checked the shoulder seams. So I made some quick changes to the shoulder seams on the pattern to make sure they "fit" my shoulders.

Of course I did a cursory glance at the instructions and missed the part on how the top of the button band was finished. So I had to go back and fix that. If you're making the blouse, make sure you look for that part in the instructions.

As I was cutting the blouse out and thinking about the buttons, I realized I didn't want them to stand out. I wanted them to fade to the back so I decided to use covered buttons for the top. However, making 14 1/2" covered buttons was a little challenging because the pieces are small.

The one thing I will change when making this again would be to shorten the cuffs by a 1/2". They are a tad too long but I can live with them. It's the only thing making this an imperfect sew.

A few pictures of the finished blouse ~

Conclusion ~

The rayon crepe fabric was perfect for this tunic. It has a softness and a drape that really works for a loose fitting tunic. I know that this reads one big print especially since I used covered buttons from the same fabric but it's actually the look I was going for. It's crazy but I wanted it to all blend together! I think I accomplished that. 

Now that the temperatures are dropping my fall sewing list is calling my name and I've got more tops to share with you! 

...as always more later!