Vogue 8623 is Done

This is the third piece in my SWAP Collection, "Midnight at the Oasis."  It's my "Your Choice" piece - chosen because I want it to go over everything in the collection.

Usually I have a list of alterations that I've made to the pattern to make it work for me...not so this time!  Because this is a "Custom Fit Pattern" that allows you to choose your cup size for your front pieces...and because this is a generously cut princess seam jacket pattern...I needed to make no alterations to either the jacket or the sleeves.

I can't remember the last time that I was able to sew a garment from the pattern without making ANY alterations!!!  So for the fact alone I love this jacket and plan to make it again!  Okay, some pics:

Jacket on Lulu open

Jacket on Lulu buttoned

A glimpse of the lining

A back view showing the pleat

Some stats:

Fabric:
navy wool tweed blend from the Vera Lavendar collection on fabric.com
light blue polyester lining also from the Vera Lavendar collection

Notions:
4 large blue & gold buttons from M&J Trimmings
4 large covered snaps from Pacific Trimmings

Construction:
The outer shell construction is pretty straightforward.  If you choose to make the jacket, just make sure that you carefully mark the pleat notches on the back jacket pattern piece.  Forming the back pleat is what gives the jacket interest and it's easy to do if you mark the fabric correctly.

The lining is what held me up.  I don't know what it is about me and jacket linings but I always feel like I need to take a deep breathe and set aside alot of time because each one makes me feel inadequate...even though this one inserts fairly easily, I did dance around it awhile before settling down and inserting it.  However, I did not serge finish the ends of the lining fabric which raveled terribly.  I stitched each seam twice - 1/8" between stitching lines and using my pinking shears, pinked each edge.  Then I pressed the seam lines flat.  Although I did serge finish the neckline and the hems of the sleeves and the jacket. 

The only change I made to the pattern was to fold over the fronts of the jackets 1" and attach the lining that way.  The pattern instructs you to make a second front from the fabric and interface it.  I just thought that with the fabric I was using this would make the front very bulky.  If you are using a smooth fabric, this won't be a problem, but no one wants all of that extra fabric on the front of them!

The lining was probably the most time-consuming issue besides all of the hand stitching needed to apply the snaps and the buttons.  Because even though the pattern envelope shows the jacket with buttons and buttonholes, the pattern instructions recommends buttons and snaps.

So three pieces down and eight more to go! *LOL*  I'm going to work on the bottoms next.  I'm making two pairs of pants from my TNT pattern and then I'm going to work on the tops.  With my trip to Moods, I bought the last piece of fabric that I need to make the tops and that will allow me to finish up the rest of the garments in the collection.  However, I have to tell you that I'm aching, I mean aching to work on a dress!  *LOL*  See I have a problem...

...as always, more later!

An Update on Vogue 8623

As you can probably tell by the lack of posts...I did not sew this weekend!  Shortly after watching the Golden Globes, I started to feel ill...and continued to feel that way until yesterday afternoon.  Because of that, today was my first day back at work.  So there has been very little progress on the Vogue 8623 jacket.

However, I did get the collar basted on...and did one more try-on to make sure that I didn't imagine the fact that this pattern was sewn straight from the envelope without one...yes I said not one adjustment to the pattern and it FITS!

So here is how it looks on the hanger now with the collar basted on:

And here it is auditioning the buttons that Elizabeth, Jack and I purchased from M&J last Saturday!

There is still quite a bit of work left to get it ready to face the world...the lining is in pieces on the table...and just go from there with a finishing list, but I am encouraged and hopefully will be working on the jacket this weekend.

Just want to let the winners of the blogaversary gifts know that your prizes haven't gone out yet...due to illness...but I will try to get them out shortly!  Thanks for sending your addresses to me so quickly!

...more later!

Vogue 8623 - My Your Choice Item

I picked this pattern to use for the jacket or my choice item in the SWAP because it has a funky collar and an interesting back detail. 

So here's where it stands now:

(back view showing pleat)

The outer shell is completed...the lining has been cut out and I've started sewing it together.  The jacket still needs the collar to be made and the lining inserted...

However, this is the first time in a long time that I've made a garment straight out of the envelope.  I didn't need to make any adjustments to the size 24 that I started with...probably because the pattern is a custom fit pattern allowing you to pick your cup size for the front pieces.  I started with the D cup front pattern pieces for anyone who wants to know. 

Since the back has the pleated detail and offers a looser fit, there were no worries that the jacket would be too tight through the body.  And normally I need to make an adjustment to the sleeves because of my bodacious biceps but that wasn't a concern with this jacket either.

The pattern goes together easily, the back pleat makes up quickly and without any issues.  The raglan sleeves are a nice detail that is formed from a separate pattern piece for the front and the back. 

I know that I'm known for the changes that I make to patterns to make them work for me, but I only made two changes in this construction.  The first was to add black silk organza to the center front pieces instead of using fusible interfacing on the boucle fabric. 

(black silk organza basted to center front pieces)

The second change was that I didn't cut out 4 center front pieces from the fashion fabric as the pattern instructs. I thought it would make the jacket center front too bulky using a double front from the boucle fabric.  Instead I cut my second set of front pieces out of lining fabric.  I will share pics of this once I've sewn the lining together and inserted it into the jacket.

This is just an update...I wanted to share with you how wonderful it is to work with both the pattern and the fabric. I believe this is going to be a great addition to the two dresses that I've already completed for the SWAP.

One more shot of the unfinished jacket over the plaid sheath dress...hanging from my closet door:

Oh and the fabric is the navy/creme poly blend boucle from the Vera Wang Lavendar Collection from Fabric.com.

...as always more later...