A Pinterest Denim Dress

This denim dress from Pinterest influenced the making of my second denim dress. 

The Pinterest denim dress ~

My version of the dress ~

Supply List ~
Black Denim from EOS purchased in December 2015
Pleated black pleather also from EOS
18" black invisible zipper
Pattern: Vogue 8824

Pattern choice and construction details ~
I honestly thought I was going to start this dress using my TNT dress but after the latest issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine arrived in my mailbox, I saw how they revived Vogue 8824 and was inspired. Then I remembered that I've made that dress. Unfortunately it was one of the dresses that was purged because it had become too big to wear. It was a favorite so I have fond thoughts of this pattern.

Assembling the Bodice ~
The front of Vogue 8824 is perfect to reproduce the Pinterest dress. I started with the largest size the pattern offered - an XXL which is actually smaller than the traced pattern pieces I originally used. So I used the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern front and back to cut out the top of the dress.

I added a 5/8" seam allowance to the front so that I could make sure my top matched the inspiration dress. I also added a 5/8" seam to the bodice back. One of the things that I didn't like about the original dress was that there wasn't a zipper in the back to make it easier to get into the dress.  With this dress, I rectified that problem.  Though the only zipper I had on hand was a 12" invisible zipper so I added it, figuring that with the wide front neckline opening would help with the shorter zipper in the back.

Tissue fitting helped me to make sure the darts landed in the right place and that the length was good on me. Then after I sewed the top together and tried it on for fit, I realized that I wanted to make the front opening wider. So I folded the front pieces down one more time.

Assembling the Dress Bottom ~
After cutting the dress front and backs out, I measured the front of me and determined that I needed to add another 18" to the bottom of the dress to get the length I wanted.

I love the strips on the inspiration dress but to me there are just two many for my shape. So I divided the 18" into 3 and cut 6" wide strips the full length of the fabric which I cut off on either side after the strips were sewn to the dress.

When the strips were assembled and added to the dress bodice front and back, I basted one side seam together to insure the seams matched. Then stitched it flat and pressed it open. That's when the topstitching began...all the topstitching! 

The Topstitching~

• To make the topstitching, I used the triple stitch on my machine with a length of 4 using regular Gutterman thread.
• I first did some topstitching on the bodice front pieces in black but it melded into the fabric so it wouldn't be worth the time and effort and I really wanted topstitching.
• My choices were a purple, a royal blue and a teal thread.

I went with the royal blue choice after sending a sample to Gaylen asking her opinion.

So the topstitching commenced...though about halfway through I started to feel as if I'm repeating myself. All of the topstitching reminded me of this dress that I made in July/August 2013. It made me wonder if I'm just repeating myself or if I actually have anything new to add?! *sigh*

This was also the longest part of making the dress...and the most boring! It took me forever to get the topstitching done because I had to sew slowly and be precise or the topstitching would look awful.

However, when my daughter showed up to take the pictures, it was the part she noticed first and commented on.  So I guess all of the time sewing that topstitching was worth it!

Sleeves ~
I cut the sleeves out with a seam down the center of the sleeve for two reasons.

One because I was using the original sleeve pattern and was worried that it would be too tight through the biceps.  Two because originally I thought I would leave a slit in that center sleeve. But when I started working on the sleeves, I realized I had enough space and that nothing should take away from the topstitching. 

Though can I talk about the fact that I should have removed some of the ease from the sleeve cap because gathering that excess ease and inserting it into the sleeve? Cause it was a pain. I like smooth sleeve caps and this denim was thick and not easy to manipulate. I took the sleeves out a couple of times and reduced the bulk of the gathers as best as I could. However, it should have been removed prior to cutting out the fabric.

A few more pictures ~

The wind was blowing so hard that my updo 

was blowing all around!

Conclusion ~
When I put the dress on for the final fitting, I was sooooooo happy because not only did the dress fit but it was everything I wanted. Plus it's denim AND a dress, what's not to like!?!

The insert is from a piece of pleather I purchased from Emmaonesock after Christmas last year. I decided to just baste it into the dress front so that it can be removed when the dress is washed and dried.

Finally I love the details of the dress. I loved the challenge of sewing this dress, it made me feel like me again. It will be a great dress for the rest of the chilly spring days we're experiencing. I can also pull it out again in the fall to wear with some tights for another look so it was worth the effort.

I have two more denim dresses I want to make to before I move onto other pieces. Although as I look at these pics, I realize that I really don't know how to do casual! *LOL* But I'm wearing this to work anyway!

...as always more later!

Vogue 8824 in Green Wool Crepe

I loved this pattern/silhouette as soon as it came out and I picked a green double sided wool crepe from Mood back in August to sew it up in.  I just needed the temperatures to drop to use it.  Of course since its the end of November, the temps have dropped so now making & wearing the dress is perfect.  Green is one of the hot colors for fall so I was thrilled to find the fabric in this color and to be able to add it to my fall wardrobe while it was still on trend. 

Some stats:
Fabric ~
Green double sided wool crepe from the Mood store in NYC

Notions ~
Gray rayon bemberg lining
1 6" Riri zipper

Pattern Alterations:
Even though this pattern goes up to an XXL (size 24-26) in Vogue land, as a plus size chick I know that Vogue cuts their plus size patterns on the slim side rather than the full size.  So the first alteration I made to all the pattern pieces (front, back & sleeve) was to alter them using my TNT (tried and true) dress pattern.  I do this by creating a pattern sandwich

• first my TNT dress pattern is laid down
• then the pattern piece from V8824
• finally tracing paper is added to the top
• then I trace a new pattern piece

All my fitting issues are resolved by using my TNT dress pattern and I don't have to start from scratch with the new pattern.  I also altered the shoulder seam on the pattern pieces front and back by 1.5".  That was the extent of the pattern alterations.  Due to a lack of fabric, I thought I had more than I did, the sleeves ended up having a seam down the middle to get them out of the yardage I had left.

Construction Changes:
I made a few changes to make the dress more like I imagined it.  I omitted the facings and added a lining to the body of the dress but not the sleeves.  The pattern suggests that you cut the back on the fold.  I need body definition so I added a center back seam. I also topstitched the v-neckline and the center seam on the sleeves. 

But the biggest change I made was to the pockets.  The pattern calls for patch pockets - big fat patch pockets on the front of the dress.  Well I guess if you're not sporting additional abdomen fat on the front of you, those pockets would work...but in my world I don't call attention to my extra large protrusions.  In my world, I hide them by any means necessary...so after rooting through a few books and looking at some pics online, I decided to go with zipper pockets.

Zipper Pocket Techniques:
First, I found this tutorial online from Sew Mama Sew.  It was very helpful in making the one pocket that appears on my dress.  Now why is there only one pocket?  Because I was fearless in cutting a hole into the front of my dress piece when I didn't have any more fabric left to recut the front.  Seriously people I don't know what the hell I was thinking!  Because of course, I cut the hole to big!  Why wouldn't I?  I'm not the most precise sewist...I just like to sew and have some great ideas...but precision sewing...that ain't me!

So in the middle of the night, I'm screaming at the television and at myself because I've got to make this work.  I even started to take pictures of this before I effed it up!

Added fusible interfacing and marking the zipper pocket

Sewing the zipper pocket in

Dress front and the zipper pocket.

Look closely you can see the offense!

After many prayers, some stitch witchery and a lot of pressing I fixed the problem.  I mean you can only see the hole if you're really close to me, looking for it...or so my daughter says.  That is why there is only ONE zipper pocket (which doesn't have a pocket bag on the back because I decided to stop while I was ahead!) It does look kinda kewl on the dress front though, right?

Wearability Factor:
I wore this dress with the ivory tank top to work on Monday.  It was a pretty cold morning but the dress and turtleneck were just too warm to combine in real life.  Also, this dress needs a back zipper so that I can step in and out of it.  Even though the front v-neckline is low and you are able to get into and out of the garment that way, it's not easy for me.  So all future versions will have a back zipper.  Now if you're contemplating making the pattern, I highly suggest that you add a center back seam and use a zipper.  Otherwise, the dress wore very well and garnered quite a few compliments.

So a few more pictures...

A side/back view

Worn with a tank top 

& showing the zipper pocket

Back view

Conclusion:
I will make this again.  I already have an idea of how I want to make it as a tunic top with a skirt and/or pants. I also have several different embellishment ideas running through my head.  Second, zipper pockets would be an amazing addition to this pattern, just leave enough fabric to practice them first!  And finally, this is a great pattern that would look great on many different body types.

...as always more later!

Three Days into a Four Day Weekend

So far the sewing has been good.  I'm more than 1/2 way through to accomplishing my list...so I'm thrilled.  Here's a picture of the finished pieces so far...

The wool flare dress completed.

The jacket with the sleeves removed and made into a vest

The new wool knit version of Burda 8869

From my "I hope to sew this weekend" list, I've removed an ivory or white version of my Vogue 1250 top.  

I remembered that I had one I made several years ago (2008) from the Sewing Workshop Mission Top which works perfectly with the cardigan.

This is the fabric and zipper trim for Vogue 8824.  I needed to do a little research into the type of pockets I want to add to the dress.  I'm not a huge fan of patch pockets but I didn't want to remove the idea of a pocket from the dress since it's integral to its design.  I'm thinking of adding some type of zippered pocket to the dress, that's why the Riri zippers are included in the picture.

I've made the alterations to the pattern so I'm moving onto cutting out the fabric.  I'm also contemplating adding a lining to the dress because of the pockets but I'm not sure.  So once again I've taken a simple dress and complicated it by adding additional techniques.  

Of course, this will cut down on my ability to make the pants which are the final garment on my list. I don't want to rush the construction of the dress.  I may be able to complete it this evening or it may roll over into tomorrow which can present a challenge since tomorrow is picture taking day.  Hopefully I will get a burst of energy, complete the dress and manage to eek out the pants too.

...as always more later!