Simplicity 8094 - 4x

I'm on a top sewing binge. It's been tops, tops, tops for the last month. I see inspiration everywhere. A top I saw on QVC a couple of months ago inspired this one.

Joan Rivers Top from QVC

This top reminded me of my versions of Simplicity 8094 and I've wanted another one in a black ponte. The inspirational garment moved this version to the top of the queue. The ponte and the pleather are both from the collection. I used the pleather in this garment in 2013 and the ponte is from my last purchase from Metro Textiles.

Since I used the godet in the last two versions there wasn't any change made to it. Though, instead of inserting it from the hipline down, I put it in the entire side seam. That made it a really interesting feature of the new top. It also means that the top will have to be washed on delicate and hung to dry because the pleather can't go in the dryer.

I did make a change to the original sleeve to insert the pleather to mimic the inspiration top. It was simple. I just cut the sleeve and inserted the pleather on either side. 

Since I was sewing over a "holey" piece of pleather, I added a 5/8" strip of black silk organza over the pleather piece. Then I stitched through the piece when stitching the sleeve's side seam. This insured that the pleather piece was stabilized and gave the stitches a solid piece to hold on to.

So a few pictures of this one in action ~

I'm wearing RTW ponte jean leggings and a tank top with this top

Conclusion ~
I've loved wearing my other versions of this top and I'm sure I will love wearing this one too. It works so well over my leggings, skinny jeans and regular jeans. It just works. So I will probably make more in the future. Don't know when but fall will come again so I will use the pattern then ~ that's a lot of "I wills" LOL!

There is another top on the cutting table ~ it will be up soon.

...as always more later!

Three Times the Charm

So I lied. Let's just start right there. When I saw this Isaac Mizrahi top on QVC, I knew that Simplicity 8094 would be the perfect jumping off place to make my own version. 

Here's a picture of the inspiration garment ~

A picture of me wearing my version of the inspiration garment ~

Supplies used in this top ~
Fabric:
Brown ponte from Fabric Mart via the collection
Floral print ponte from Tessuti Fabrics via the collection

Notions:
foldover elastic binding from Pacific Trimmings
stay tape

The only change I made to this version was to add 4" of length to the back piece. The hemline was then rounded off to duplicate the back of the inspiration top.

Seriously, I made this just like the other two except I didn't two tone the sleeves...just added a little foldover elastic to the neckline. I even added the godets, in brown ponte so they blend in yet give a little extra swing & space to the top.

A few pictures of this top ~

Conclusion ~
If the photos are a little blurry, it's because they were taken on my iPad. My coworker and I took them around the corner from my job. I work by Herald Square and since they've built these pedestrian spaces, we thought they would serve as a great background.

This top was a quick sew. I finished it over the weekend. So of course I wore it to work yesterday...I mean that's one of the reasons I sew...to have new stuff to wear!

This time I'm not going to say that I'm putting the pattern away because who knows.  There just might be a fourth version of this before I do it again in merino wool. It's such an easy top to wear, comfortable, on trend and works well with my RTW ponte jeans.

Next up on the cutting table is another top. I went back and forth over what to make next and I really just wanted another new top - so top it is! Here's the sneak peek of the top in progress on Instagram.

...as always more later!

Simplicity 8094 - A Fall Tunic

I've loved this pattern since it was issued. However, I'm such a dress girl when the weather gets warm that I knew I would never make it as a summer topper. But in a nice ponte or sweater knit for fall, yes, I can do that!

So even though the temps are up and down here lately, I decided to make my first version to wear now. I really want this in a merino wool for later in the winter cause I can always add a sleeveless turtleneck under it for warmth and wear it over my skinny jeans.

Fabric choice for version one ~
It's made from a rayon/lycra knit that I won from Elliott Berman last Thanksgiving with black ponte sleeves from Metro Textiles. When I first pulled the fabric out of the pile, I was worried that I didn't have enough to make the body of the tunic but it worked out.

Supplies ~
Stay tape
Fusible stay tape

Pattern Alterations for Version One ~
I know that this appears loose fitting on the pattern envelope, but the pattern only goes up to a size 20. So I was a little leary about how it would fit me. I added 1/2 inch to each side seam from the underarm down to the hem. I wanted to make sure that it skimmed my bodacious body. 

The biggest change was to the sleeve since the pattern only has short sleeves. I used the long sleeve pattern from my TNT dress pattern and made a pattern sandwich. TNT pattern, Simplicity pattern sliced and spread and tracing pattern on the top then I altered the pattern to insure it fit my biceps.

Those were the only changes made to the pattern pieces for version one.

Construction Info. ~
Honestly, I just glanced at the pattern instructions especially after they suggested that you sew the knit sleeves in the round. I NEVAH sew knit sleeves in the round. I always sew them in flat and that's what I did with this top.

Also, the pattern suggests that you use bias tape to finish the neckline. I mean I understand why they suggest it but my knit is a little thin and I thought this would make the neckline bulky. So I applied some fusible bias stay tape to the neckline, pressed it flat and stitched it down using a twin needle.

The other change that I made to the tunic besides lengthening the sleeve was to add a piece of the body fabric to the sleeve hem to tie the look together. I just eyeballed this but I did make sure that I added a 5/8" seam allowance to the top of the insert. 

Here's a pic of the sleeve with fabric choices ~

I also sewed the side slits lower than the pattern suggests. I didn't want the sides of my abdomen showing and scaring people so I sewed my openings to mid-hip.

A few pictures of the first tunic in action ~

I made that first version as a Sunday Sew. I wore it to work on Monday because the temps were back into the 70s-80s and it was really warm. Though after wearing it with black leggings, I kept thinking that I wanted to make it again without the side splits. I hated that the sides fell open and exposed the sides of my legs. Also the fabric is an ITY ~ thin and clingy ~ not my friend. So while I love the fabric's pattern, I was uncomfortable in how the tunic fit.

Fast forward to picture taking day and it was only in the 40s outside, so I wore a cotton tank top under it which then solved all the clinging issues. I even wore my black skinny jeans and while my side view leaves much to be desired (hahahahaha!) I liked the top much better.

Version Two ~ 

However based on wearing version one, I made a second one closing up the side seams adding godets to them. 

I made the godet pattern piece by pinning the front and back pieces together from the underarm seam down to the notch where the side seams were left open. Then I traced the opening and added 5/8" seam allowances.

To add a little more width to the front and back pattern pieces, I did a pivot and slide on the fabric adding an inch at the waistline to both pieces and two inches to the hemline. 

I also two toned the sleeves of this version using the fashion fabric that I bought from JoMars during my trip in June. The black ponte is from Metro Textiles.  The godets were made in the black ponte to tie everything together. 

Another change was the neckline. When I tried the top on to make sure that everything fit the way I wanted, I realized that I liked the neckline just as it was. So I rambled around in the notions collection and found some black foldover elastic and added it to the neckline so that it wouldn't change.

The last change was the length. This version is considerably shorter than the first one. I just didn't like this fabric in the longer length so I cut 6" off the hemline and hemmed it using a 1" hem.

A few pictures of Version Two ~

Conclusion ~
This is a simple to sew tunic. There are no big surprises and would be easy for anyone from beginner to advanced sewist to construct. What makes mine different are the design details I've added.  Long sleeves vs. short sleeves, color blocking the sleeves and adding solid color godets to the second version. I think these details give it that Chicos Chic look that I've been trying to sew lately.

I like both of these versions ~ the second just a little more than the first ~ however, I'm putting the pattern away and moving on to other patterns. Maybe I will get back to it when the weather gets colder making a merino wool version...maybe. 

The next top up is a heavier weight summer linen that I'm wearing into fall...

...as always more later!