Burda Style Skirt 12-2009-112

Well I have one more black skirt...or the Burda Style skirt is done!

One of the reasons that it took so long to finish this skirt is because I knew I would never be happy with the button closure on the waistband.  I loved the front drape but was totally turned off by the button closures.  I think this works great in the skinnier sizes as evidenced by the great skirts that Sharon, Elizabeth and Karen made.  However, as a plus size chick those buttons just weren't working for me.

So yet again, I changed the pattern...although this does fit with my sewing motto...that a pattern is just a jumping off point.  In my opinion, the change that I made to the skirt was minor...it just made it easier to wear.  But I'm sure that from a design standpoint, it's major...since the button front along with the drape are "the hook" that elevates this skirt from a regular old pencil skirt.  Whatever...

So some stats:

Fabric:
Skirt shell is from 100% worsted wool crepe that was purchased from Fabric Mart
Lining is from a silk charmeuse print also from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" invisible black zipper
2 - 5/8" black buttons from the collection
black rayon hem tape

The pattern alterations were extensive and are detailed in this post.  And after much discussion in the comments section, I am glad that I went with my TNT skirt pattern especially since this pattern stops at a size 46.  I don't believe that I would have gotten as great a fit particularly in the back of the skirt, if I hadn't used my TNT skirt pieces. 

One final thing, I did do a hard press in my drape/pleat.  I wanted the definition and for the pleat to stand out.  The directions don't tell you to do this but I would recommend it.  The soft drape is kinda wimpy to me...pressing it makes it command attention.

If I make this skirt again, I would do a few things differently:

1.  I would put the invisible zipper in the back.  It would just flow better.  The zipper in the side isn't bad but in my opinion it would just work better in the back.

2.  I've used 3/8" seam allowances in this version probably because I forgot to add a seam allowance to the front pattern piece on the drape side.  I'm old fashion, I like 5/8" seam allowances.  I sew them naturally because they are now ingrained into my sewing psyche.

3.  I would lengthen the pattern another inch or two.  I have a 1/2" hem in this skirt and would like a deeper hem...again just my personal preference.

4.  I would not add a back vent when placing the invisible zipper in a center back seam because there is plenty of room to walk in the skirt.  The pleated front piece gives you enough space so that walking is easy in the skirt.

Some pictures:

the invisible zipper and button closure

a sideview of the skirt showcasing the pleat/drape

a full view where you can see the pleat

I have some eggplant wool crepe pulled out to make this skirt again, but first I want to make one more dress before the year ends.  If I can get one more finished before December 31st, I will have made 20 dresses this year...and even though it's not a major distinction, I would like to accomplish this minor goal.

Christmas is Friday and my family celebrates on Christmas Eve so I probably won't be posting again until after Christmas Day! 

I am wishing all of you a very Merry Christmas ~ full of love, joy family, and good food.  If you are traveling anywhere I hope that you are blessed with traveling mercies and that you don't end up spending hours upon hours in your local airport!  I also hope that you receive as much as you've given!  Great sewing presents for all!!!

...and as always...more later!

Burda Skirt - Part 3

....or how to turn a simple skirt into a major production! *LOL*

This afternoon Marji sent me another drawing to emphasize her lining point....and she got me thinking...and since I have the fashion fabric cut out, I decided to baste it up and check the fit...here's the unlined front (without the waistband):

and here's the unlined back (again sans waistband):

This is why I used my TNT pattern for this skirt...I have 4 small darts across the back to gently emphasize my behind.  I know this works well for me and I'm liking how it looks.  I even like how the drape looks in the front.

After basting this together and seeing the pics, I've now got another idea for how to make this skirt my own! *LOL*  This version will be made up as Burda suggests...but I AM making this again.  I will use my regular skirt back and add an invisible zipper.  For the front I will pin the drape and baste it down.  Then I will add my regular waistband so that I can unzip and step into the skirt.

The reason for the change is because I like the drape on the front of the skirt, it's different from your normal pencil skirt.  However, I'm not sure that I like the way the Burda skirt closes especially on me...and since I NEVER tuck anything in you won't see the button finish at all.  I think the revised version will work better for me.  So this will be the last update...the next post on the skirt will show you the finished skirt(s).

I have to admit that this has been an interesting adventure.  I have a better idea of what I'll face making the Burdastyle dresses...and I really think I'm going to make at least one of the three...now that I can face the tracing out!

...and as always, more later!

More ramblings on the Burda Skirt

I knew that the Burda skirt was hot but I never realized how hot!  Sharon, who authors the blog, "Adventures from the Sewing Studio", has already completed her version of the Burda skirt.  You can see it here!  Also Elizabeth, who authors the blog, "Sew A Beginner", also has her muslin of the skirt up on her blog.

First a progress report, I have only cut the skirt pieces out of the black wool crepe.  I haven't cut the underlining pieces out yet, that is the next step.  I know everyone is wondering where my finished skirt is but I was feeling under the weather this weekend and spent most of Saturday and Sunday sleeping.  The alterations to the pattern and cutting out the fashion fabric are as far as I got.

However, there were a couple of questions and comments that I wanted to address.  One, I understand that there are lots of words in my posts, but I did state that this is the first time in YEARS that I have sewn with a BurdaStyle (WOF) pattern.  This entire construction process is an adventure and totally out of my comfort zone. 

I am perfectly happy sewing up those Big4 patterns.  I have no problems making the adjustments to them because I've been using them since I was 11 years old.  On the other hand, if you are more comfortable using the Burda magazine patterns...if tracing them and grading them up is no problem for you I think that's wonderful.  Me, I'm stumbling around here, getting my footing and trying to locate some normal landmarks.

That is why I elected to use my TNT pattern as a starting point.  I know that this fits.  I know how to manipulate it and make it work for me...and frankly this is just how my brain works...how I get from Point A to Point B. And can I add here as politely as I can...that I don't mind constructive criticism especially when I can see a garment that you've made.  Then I know where you are coming from...however, if I can't see anything you've made, yet you elect to "instruct" me on how to do something, I'm a little skeptical of your advice.

MeredithP asked about the pegged hem
...girl I removed that!  *LOL*  I straighted the side seam out and added some width to it at the same time that I added some length to the pattern.

BeeBee said:  I always take time to outline my BWOF size line in a Sharpie. I'm anal enough that I have to use the color of that pattern (green for green, red for red, etc. I tried using black once and almost had a meltdown). 
Seriously!  I never thought of this!  I will have to remember that - I mean if I ever take this adventure again! *LOL* 

Anonymous said:
easy method to trace out a Burda pattern:  Lay newspaper under the pattern sheet. Financial Times is good because it is very thin. Place both of these on a tracing wheel friendly surface. Use a tracing wheel to trace out the pattern. The tracing wheel will make marks into the newspaper which you can use for adding seam allowance and markings with marker directly on the newspaper.
Ohmygoodness - that would have just about done me in!  *LOL*  I was having a hard enough time seeing the lines and using a black sharpie!  And I don't mind people using the anonymous section if they just put their name at the bottom of the post, please!

To everyone who wrote an encouraging word and are waiting to see the finished result ~ thank you!  Ummmm, I am sooooo flying in the dark here! *LOL*  I am taking a huge leap because I really like this skirt.  And to the awesome Marji, thanks so much for the instructions and the picture (wait until you see how she marked up the pattern piece to show me how to add the lining!)  I probably won't have the chance to work on this again until Saturday...so stay tuned!

It's Begun - The Burda Skirt

After seeing the skirt in the December Burda Style, I had to have it and I wasn't going to be deterred by the fact that it was only graded up to a size 46...especially since I'm probably more like a size 50 in Burda.  I mean I have a TNT skirt pattern and some tracing pattern, why couldn't I make this skirt?

I've spent several days thinking about how I would alter the pattern to fit me...what changes I needed to make to both my TNT pattern and the Burda skirt piece.  I even got Marji involved when I told her that I couldn't come up with a lining alternative...her suggestions follow in the next post.

But before pattern alterations, there is pattern tracing...and now I remember why I don't use my Burdas more often.  I know you everyday Burda users think nuthin' about tracing off patterns...but this was a semi-challenge to a chick wearing new progressive lenses (bifocals) and having problems seeing anything up close!  All of those intersecting lines in several different colors made my head hurt but I pressed on because I really want this skirt!

So out comes the black sharpie and following some advice to outline the pattern piece with said sharpie, I trace the main skirt pattern and all of its markings only. 

Why did I do this?  Because I am going to use the back skirt piece of my TNT pattern.   I mean that piece fits, I know it fits, I've made it several times...okay more than that but you know what I mean!  So why re-invent the wheel?  After the piece was traced out the real fun began because I have to turn the original skirt piece into a workable pattern piece for me.

Who knew a size 46 was so d*mn small!  When I first looked at that piece I was wondering if I would be able to make it fit me!!!  But I really want this skirt so I moved on! Since I didn't want to alter my TNT skirt pattern, I drew another one onto pattern paper:

Then I sliced the traced Burda skirt pattern into two pieces...cutting it apart at the center front line.  The piece that was the normal skirt side was matched to my original skirt piece...and taped down.  With a slice of pattern paper, I added an insert between the two pieces.  The insert measured 10.5" at the top tapering out to 12" at the skirt bottom.  And more taping ensued so that I would have a workable pattern piece that wouldn't fall apart with a little handling.  I also lengthened the skirt pattern (that's why the lines are about 6" higher on the original Burda skirt pieces), ummm that thing was sooooo short, I would scare grown men and little children!  I also straightened out the side seam on the right...figuring I need as much fabric to cross my body as possible!

Finally with my daughter's help, I tissue fit the pattern to the front of me checking to see if I needed to add more to the front of the skirt pattern...but it was okay.  It fit!  Even with the piece pulled over to form the drape - it fit! Insert Snoopy dance here because I really want to make this skirt! *LOL*

And that's where I left the skirt.  Today I will wade into my fabric closet because in the midst of my daughter pulling down the Christmas ornaments Friday evening, she pulled down the entire top shelf of fabric.  I need to find the black wool crepe that I want to use for the skirt...hopefully later today I will have pics of the finished skirt to share...

I hope so, 'cause I really want to make and wear this skirt!!! *LOL*

...as always, more later!