Supply List ~
- 3 yards of a midweight cotton stretch shirting by designer Isaac Mizrahi purchased from Fabric.com also from the collection
- 1/2 yard of gray/orange print batik from the collection
- 12 1/2" 4-hole orange buttons from Pacific Trimmings
- 2 pkgs of 1/2 foldover bias binding from Pacific Trimmings
- Light Crisp Shirt Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
Construction & Design ~
Most of the shirts I've sewn use the silhouette of yoke & gathered/pleated back with a straight hem. I was weary of that shirt type. It prompted me to make some changes to my existing pattern pieces. I thought I would add the back princess seams into the mix yet keep the back yoke. I also wanted the curved hemline typical of button down shirts.
After some pattern alterations, I had new pattern pieces to use for this new version of my TNT shirt pattern.
Adding space to the lower side back piece
Added space to the center back piece
Putting all the pieces together to insure they work
I know the question is, why not just use a new pattern with the features I want, because I do own quite a few shirt patterns. However, I would have to start the fitting process all over again using a new pattern. I know where to make changes for my body using these pattern pieces. I'm not starting new...I'm just adding to the pattern that's already working for me. Plus I really don't like to fit new patterns...it's one of the reasons that I use TNT patterns over and over and over again.
After sewing the shirt together, there was excess fabric in the back seams. So I took it all out...everything that I added to the pattern pieces was taken out...*sigh!* I need to adjust the pattern pieces because I really want to make this shirt silhouette type again.
The other challenge was to get the print to match across all of these seams, as well as from the yoke back to the back princess seams. So I single cut the back pattern pieces. It took a lot pins, some slow sewing and a good layout to get it to work. It matches across all of the seams except one under arm seam and I'm good with that.
The design change to this shirt is that I added bias binding to the collar, cuffs and hemline. I wanted to use the binding to enhance the shirt's print. Adding it to the collar and the hemline were pretty standard. But I had to stop sewing for the night and sleep on it to come up with an idea for the application to the cuffs.
I photographed the process so when I want to use it for a future shirt, I can refer back to it. Readers if you want to incorporate this into one of your shirts, please feel free to borrow it.
Apply the band to the sleeve, then press it in half
up towards the sleeve
Align the binding next to the creased line of the cuff.
Stitch the binding down with a row of stitching on each side of the binding.
Finish and apply the cuff following the pattern instructions
I really like how the binding is applied but the cuff has a clean finished look. Which is what I wanted more than anything.
A few pictures of the shirt ~
Honestly I never thought about the logo print on the fabric when I dreamed up this shirt. I'm not sure I would have used it if I'd realized I would be matching all those stripes and the print beforehand. I just wanted to make some pretty shirts. Thankfully, I did use the fabric because this shirt is different from the previous ones I've made...though I used my seam ripper ALOT...this was slow sewing...really slow sewing! Also, this shirt has a slimmer fit with more button down shirt features.
This is shirt number 6 for the month and I have 2-3 more to make before I'm done. Since the weather is cooperating by just starting to warm up, I think I will get those last couple of shirts completed before it gets hot.
My next post is about my shirtmaking tips. I felt like including one tip per blog post wasn't enough. Having one blog post with all the information seemed more appropriate so that's what's coming up.
...as always more later!