Butterick 6183 - The Lisette Top

I bought this pattern as soon as it came out. I loved the top and had a ton of ideas for it. 

Butterick 6183

I'm really digging tunic-y tops over skirts or pants. The two outfits that I've already made using a tunic top are very comfortable to wear. So I've been looking for more patterns in this style.

First some pattern alterations ~

The great thing about this pattern is that it comes in cup sizes. New me needs the "C" cup pattern piece instead of the "D" cup piece. That's where I started. After pinning the pieces together and tissue fitting them to me, I determined that I needed some space over my abdomen, well that issue hasn't changed. I altered the center front piece by cutting and spreading it an inch.

I also added 5/8" to the center back piece so that I could put in an invisible zipper...changing this from a "place on fold" piece. I like the exposed zipper that the pattern features, I just didn't want it in my version.

The sleeves were widened to increase the biceps. I also added 2" to the bottom of the sleeve hem to make the sleeves a little longer.

I made no changes to the shoulder seam or the neckline and I started with a size 22.

Construction ~

I really wanted a top to go with the fruit skirt but I only had a large scrap of it left...not enough to make an entire top but enough to print block a top. So I pulled a white linen from the collection to use with the fruit scrap to make the top.

• Figuring out the combination to get the best design from the small scrap was the first challenge.
• Then after getting all of the pieces cut out, I realized that I needed to underline all of the pieces. I used cotton batiste to do that.
• I assembled the top, tried it on and it was a little too tight in the abdomen area, so I went in and reduced all the seams to 3/8" wide from under the bustline down.
• The pattern pieces were all altered to reflect this change.

Otherwise it was a straight sew. It took a little longer than I thought it would, as in all day but I'm glad I made it.

Here is version one...a work related view ~

Finally I will be making this top again. Liesl has a pinterest board called, Lisette: Sew Your Style, where she's collected a lot of amazing ideas for garments from her patterns. There are quite a few inspiring pieces here that I definitely want to try especially since this top can be made in a variety of fabrics!

...as always more later!

My Version of the Talbot's Skirts

My new work environment is more business casual than "professional."  So along with donating most of my too big professional skirts, I'm sewing more fun, colorful and print palooza skirts. My fabric choices were definitely influenced by this recent Talbots catalog's wares.

So here are the skirts in order of construction:

Paisley Print Palooza Skirt~
I bought this fabric from Fabric Mart earlier this year. It's a mid-weight cotton pique with a touch of lycra. Perfect for a straight skirt. A few details about this skirt:

• It has a kickpleat vent in the back seam
• I used the slimmer 3/4" waistband that I like.
• The lycra in the fabric gives it a cross grain stretch that goes around my body, where I need it most.
• The waistband was cut vertically so that there's no stretch in it.
• No interfacing was added to the waistband to keep it from being too stiff.
• Finally there is a button/buttonhole closure on the waistband.
• The hem is machine stitched.

This skirt works with both the navy blue jacket from "The Interview Blues" outfit and a couple of cardigans in my collection. It's a great business casual outfit.

The skirt is worn with a RTW tank and short sleeve sweater

Fruit Salad Linen Skirt~

The fabric for this skirt was purchased during my Expo trip earlier this year. I bought enough to make a skirt. I'm only including one pic of this skirt because I made a top to go with the skirt. The top will be discussed in a future post.

• When I went to lay the fabric out, I realized that I didn't like the horizontal bands the pattern created. 
• So I cut the skirt out on the crosswise grain. 
• The waistband was also cut out on the crossgrain so the two pieces wouldn't fight against each other and Dritz waistband interfacing was added to stabilize it.
• The fabric is lightweight and slightly sheer so I underlined it with a cotton batiste.
• The fabric handled differently than the paisley print so I used slightly smaller side seams. 
• I added rayon seam binding to the hem and hand stitched it.
• A button/buttonhole closure was added to the waistband.

This skirt is business casual and that's great. It's a wonderful new addition to my wardrobe.

Blue Skies Blazing Skirt~
I found this piece buried in the blues/green section of the collection. I gasped when I pulled it out because it was just enough for a skirt. This one is a mid-weight cotton sateen so I left it unlined. I love the print on this fabric and how summery it looks.

All of the construction techniques mentioned in the first two skirts, apply to this one too. There is nothing new to add, so a few pretty pictures.

Conclusion~
While this was quick and easy sewing for me, I'm thrilled to add these new skirts to my wardrobe. I do have to admit it's going to take a minute for me to get used to wearing a closer fit...and these all have a closer fit. These skirts are the building blocks to a new work/play wardrobe.

...as always more later!

Interview Blues

So this is the interview suit that I never wore...

I made my first suit from a glen plaid fabric using Vogue 8209. That jacket/suit worked really well and I got the job. But before I knew that, I started another interview outfit. I added a dress instead of a skirt to this suit combo because it's more comfortable to wear.

Some stats ~
Patterns:
Reworked TNT dress pattern
Vogue 8209 Jacket

Fabric:
Textured Rayon Suiting purchased from Vogue Fashion Fabrics

Notions:
Navy Blue Bemberg Rayon Lining purchased from Low Price Fabrics
Black silk organza from the collection
Navy Blue Rayon Seam Tape
Black fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
7 - 1" enameled plastic buttons purchased from Fabric Mart
1" shoulder pads from the collection
22" navy invisible zipper
bias binding

There are no new sewing techniques in this outfit. It's basic construction with a lot of steps...a lot of steps!  The first post on how this jacket was constructed is here.  However, sewing an outfit without pressure means that I sew better.  The sleeves are inserted well. No puckers in the sleeve caps especially after I reduced the excess space on the pattern pieces. I also added space to the front so the jacket can close better. 

The dress is a basic sleeveless version of my TNT pattern. I wanted it "plain" so that it would work with anything...the jacket, a cardigan or alone...with or without jewelry. A good workhorse piece that can even be worn at my new job.

In my original post, I included a cotton houndstooth fabric that I was going to make a skirt to coordinate with the jacket. After realizing that I've recently made a navy/white gingham skirt that will go with the jacket, I decided not to sew it any time soon. 

A few more pictures ~

I start my new job on Monday. I'm pretty excited about this new adventure especially since I will be in a different industry, working less hours with a different dress code. So my sewing is definitely going to change now...which is great since most of my "professional" wardrobe no longer fits. 

However, if I ever need an interview outfit again, I'm all set!

...as always more later!

Thoughts from a Sewcation

For this sewcation, I decided to handle my blog posts differently. Usually, I write and post them as I've sewn each garment. This time I'm waiting until everything is done, including photos, and will post then.  This means there hasn't been much shown here since the start of my sewcation.  My reason is that I just wanted to sew uninterrupted...

These are a few of the thoughts that rambled through my mind while sewing this last week... 

1.  I know why I have nice skin.  I use so much steam when I'm sewing that my pores are constantly being flushed by the steam. Yeah sewing facials! *LOL*

2.  Is it sewing growth if I really like hand sewing now? It calms and makes me feel as if I'm invested in my garments. 

3.   I need to learn to sew more quick and easy garments! The amount of steps involved in complicated garments, while necessary, seems to make the process so much longer!

4.  Are you like me? Do you read through other sewists' blog posts looking for techniques that will help you take your sewing to the next level? I love finding a gem that I can file away to use on a future garment.

5.  Do you use just one set/size pins when you're sewing? I noticed during this sewcation that I used several different sizes of pins for my projects. Just wondering if anyone else is that obsessive too?

6.  Same with carbon paper - I have several different types and use them based upon the fabric. Again am I the only one that does that?

7.   Ever since I realized that I can purchase just about any sewing supply from Amazon - it's been my go to source.  Tracing paper, pins, sewing machine needles and now waistband interfacing. Amazon is like the Walmart of the Internet! *LOL*

8.  I was wondering, does anyone else press their darts over their pressing ham? Okay seriously I know that other sewists do but does everyone?  Do you realize that you get a much better press ~ one that follows the contours of your curves if you press darts over a pressing ham?  Just wondering...

9.  There were a lot of skirts made this go around. So when I was reading Shams post about her awesome new pants, I realized that I do the same thing. My skirt fronts are considerably larger than my skirt backs. I'm just bigger in the front and need more fabric there.

10. Have you ever dropped your scissors/shears and they just fell apart? That happened to me once...I bought multiples of everything after that to make sure I was never without scissors/shears again!

11. BTW, I pretty much own multiples of everything ~ seam rippers, pins and pinholders, seam gauges, all of my scissors, etc. I'm sure that I'm not the only one with a considerably overstocked sewing spot?

12. Do you sit and sew for 4, 5, 6 or 8 hours straight?  I just realized that I sew in bursts.  An hour or two here...some computer time.  Another 15-30 minutes and a trip upstairs to do a task...my biggest bursts of straight sewing time occur from 10pm to 2am when there are no distractions. So what about you? How do you sew?

13. I think you need to fail when making a garment. Because when you fail and figure out how to fix it, it gives you the experience and the belief that you can make it work the next time you're in that situation. Failing makes you a better sewist...well at least to me!

Butterick 6183 top & TNT skirt, Butterick 6183 sleeveless top w/maxi skirt, 

2 TNT skirts in prints, Vogue 8209 Jacket and TNT dress

As of now I've finished 8 pieces ~ number 9 and 10 are on the cutting table. I'm working on a top and matching pants...those will probably be the last items...even though I keep thinking maybe I can squeeze one last TNT dress in...but probably not. Cause let's be real, I still haven't taken pictures of me in all of this stuff!

Anyway, I went with simple pieces...the most complicated was the Vogue 8209 jacket but that was me and not the pattern. I chose to sew these garments to give my wardrobe some variety since it's been quite limited lately. The posts about the garments and my journey will be up on the blog next.

...as always more later!

Fabric Finds #2

My fabric collection is not an accident. It is a deliberate curated collection. At the beginning I bought a lot of basics...alot of basics in a lot of different fabrications...because I always wanted to be able to make a black pair of pants or skirt.

Lately though, since the collection is so well established, my purchases are more focused. I went through a period of buying pontes in all colors and prints because I loved sewing with it so much. Recently, any interesting pleather or faux leather has found its way into the collection.

My newest acquisition is this wool flannel purchased out of season cause you know this won't be around come fall ~

Yeah I know beautiful right! This is from Emmaonesock and there is still some left on the site. These are the types of purchases I've been making lately. Gorgeous pieces of fabric, sometimes bought out of season, because they will enhance the collection. 

So this is fabric is being highlighted for Fabric Finds #2. Hop on over and purchase a couple of yards...and like me save it for fall/winter if you're in the Northern Hemisphere or use it now if you're in the Southern Hemisphere.

...as always more later!

Pattern Addiction

I think I'm addicted to anything sewing ~ seriously! See my heart skipped a beat when I read the notice in my email box that Butterick, McCalls, Vogue and KwikSew patterns were on sale. Luckily I read the email at the bus stop this morning...unluckily the patterns are on sale until Tuesday, May 26th.

Luckily, I didn't have any time to look at my wish list and what was in my shopping cart on my iPad until I got home. Unluckily, the list is pretty long! BTW McCalls, why if I'm logged in, can't my list transfer or remain the same from device to device. I can make three different lists ~ one on my home computer, one on my iPad and one on my iPhone. All different which can get a bit confusing! 

Okay so back to my addiction...I have 12 yes 12 patterns on my list! Why?! I don't need a pattern!?! I have quite a collection! But yet, I'm scrolling through that list trying to determine which ones should wing their way home to me. This addiction has not been helped by the fact that McCalls blogged about the new patterns today with a video - a video! Yeah three of those 12 patterns were put on the list today.

So what is an addict to do?! I came down to the cave to find my special zen place. That place where I talk myself out of buying 90% of the stuff I really want to purchase...and I do the thing that shakes me back to reality every time. I touch the patterns I already own. Peeps let me tell you this is the one advantage of purchasing my patterns online from the comfort of my sewing cave. The ability to access my patterns while I'm being intoxicated by the wonderful and the new! It shuts that desire down with a quickness!

By touching all of those wonderfully pristine envelopes just waiting their turn to become a garment, I'm reminded of my old hopes and dreams. The desires I had when I bought each one of them. And I stop, take stock, readjust and slowly start to remove patterns from my shopping cart.

In all honesty, you and I both know that I'm adding to the collection. However, I'm not going overboard and the list is now well thought out and better curated.

Here's what I bought ~

Let's start with what I got for Miss Lena:

Butterick 6201

Butterick 6202

...and four more patterns are coming for me:

Lori from Girls in the Garden posted about this pattern (Butterick 6051) and I really wanted it. Then Mary on the Curvy Collective posted about making maxi dresses this summer and I've got to get in on that too!  This pattern can make those hopes come to fruition!

This is Vogue 9023 - an empire waist knit dress with short sleeves. What can be a more perfect work dress than this one?

I meant to purchase this one (Vogue 9107) when the new Vogue patterns came out a couple of months ago. I don't remember why I didn't? Then I saw the McCalls video today and I knew that I needed this one ~ especially since I have two pastel shades of silk crepe that will make this an amazing dress. And yes, I plan on wearing it to work!

Culottes are everywhere...and I mean everywhere. I was considering purchasing a Butterick culotte pattern that had an elastic waistline. BUT I'm really digging the fact that this one has a flat front and an elastic backwaist. Also, in a nice flowy challis this will look more like a full summer skirt than culottes and that's the look I really want! So McCalls 7131 is coming to me too!

I don't think I overindulged, hopefully most of these will be sewn this summer! So how about you? Did you succumb to the sale yet? Notice I said yet! *LOL* Or do you have the will power that I don't seem to possess and you won't be purchasing? Inquiring minds want to know...

...as always more later!

Let's Do it Again!

When I was at the Vogue Fashion Fabrics booth at The Expo in Pullayap, I was deliberately looking for fabrics to make a couple of spring suits.

I bought this midweight textured rayon suiting and the coordinating navy/white cotton houndstooth to make a jacket/dress/skirt combo. Since the Vogue 8209 pattern was still laying on the cutting table, I decided to use it again, especially since I knew how I wanted to improve the sleeves.

However, the rayon suiting while textured did need some stability to help it keep from stretching out. I decided to add a layer of black silk organza to the pieces to provide the needed support. So the body pieces were constructed of three layers...

The fashion fabric and silk organza was marked and the darts stitched through both pieces ~

Then the bemberg lining was basted to that piece and serged together.

The rayon fashion fabric was very ravelly and needed the clean finishing. Lastly the rayon seam binding was stitched to the edges.

Front Pattern Alteration and Construction:
For this version I decided to copy the jacket front pattern onto pattern paper, separating the facing from the jacket front and adding a 1/2 inch to the center front prior to adding the 5/8 inch seam allowance.

Why did I do this? Because the jacket fronts needed an additional inch so that the fronts would close better. Now the original jacket pattern doesn't call for button closures - it's a hook and eye closing. And when I originally made this pattern, there were no closures, but there is enough space in the abdomen area now to close the jacket. So I'm taking advantage of this extra space to add buttons & buttonholes.

Other than the techniques mentioned above, the jacket construction will be the same as the last jacket. I'm knee deep into construction and will have photography shots when all three pieces have been completed.

Conclusion:
May I take a moment here to say that I'm going to spend the next 11 days sewing for me. There may be an alteration or two of a "reclaimed" dress from the closet. That will probably happen during the end of the time because it's a sewcation designed to add some variety to my wardrobe. I just can't stand it anymore ~ I'm going to start sewing new things and donate the rest.

When I look back at some of the garments I've sewn, I want that feeling of creative freedom that I once had. It's missing now. I've become a captive of my weight loss and not in a good way. So there will be some new patterns and some of my revised TNT patterns sewn. I'm going in and I'm not coming out until I have new garments to wear and of course share here with you!  

...as always more later!

Curvy Sketchbook by Cashmerette

I was gifted both the small and larger versions of these sketchbooks for my upcoming birthday. However, I would have bought them both anyway, to support my friend Jenny.

I think that it's an awesome idea that she decided to make the croquis full sized so that us curvy girls can get a better idea of how garments look on our fuller shapes when we're imaging/dreaming/designing our own new garments! 

I'm sure you're asking why I would have bought both versions ~ but hey one can go in my handbag for when I'm shopping in the garment district, or dreaming up new ideas on the bus, or daydreaming at my desk. The larger version allows me to keep it in the sewing cave and to add a swatch, capturing all of the pertinent information that I need to sew/create a new garment.

We've all seen the other sketchbooks that have swept through the sewing community. However, can I state again that this one is for us curvy girls. If you want to own a copy of either version or both, please order them here. They are presently 20% off so get one now... you won't regret it.

Finally, I need to say that I only endorse products that I actually use and believe in. I've known about these sketchbooks from the inception through the actual publishing. It's a wonderful tool to help with planning your creations and worth spending your precious sewing dollars on!

...as always more later! 

Fabric Finds #1

A few of my friends, after visiting the cave, suggested that I give shout-outs when a great piece of fabric appears that I would buy...so this is probably the start of something quite a few of you are going to regret! *LOL* Also, I apologize that this one is late...because the offer expires in a few hours...

Update:
The fabric is on sale right now for $3.60 a yard! If you want some pick it up now!!!

Here's the fabric from where else - Fabric Mart

...and here are my designer inspirations for some amazing new pieces...

On Pinterest

Net-a-Porter

Don't be put off by the designer pics, because this will make a great cardi with solid black bands that can be worn both professionally over a skirt and/or dress OR over a pair of jeans in a more casual situation. Like I said its on sale for $3.50 a yard for only a couple more hours so hurry on over and pick some up. As for me, yeah I already own this fabric! *LOL*

...as always more later!

Throwback Thursday #3

Along with Closet Cull posts there will also be a couple of posts about garments that I found in the dark depths of my wardrobe that have been resurrected...rising to the front of the closet like the phoenix rising from the ashes. Or in short, I can wear them again. This is one of those posts...

I made this dress back in 2007. It was the very first time where I cut my TNT pattern apart. It was the beginning of a journey that not only expanded my creative sense but it helped me to sew better. I wore this dress for three years and then I started to gain weight. It no longer fit well through my abdomen and hips. But I just couldn't give it away because it held too much sentimental value.

Fast forward five years, 45 lbs lost and I can wear the dress again. Actually I could take in the side seams some...it's a tad loose. I also need to say that I only have a pair of spanx on under this dress. This is important because this is what I use to wear under my garments (minus the bye Dave lettering!)...

I would like to thank Tina Fey for standing in for me and on national TV at that, to share how even thin women hold themselves together under their clothing! Okay not all thin women, but my girl Tina Fey rocks!

Besides losing the weight and 75% of my wardrobe, I've lost all but the spanx in my lingerie/undergarment drawer. It's been a really strange year, to say the least. May I also emphatically state that even with the weight loss, I'm still plus size. Honestly, I'm not trying to become a size 10 so if you're holding your breathe waiting for it or betting on it happening...stop it ain't gonna. See to look decent as a size 10, surgery would be involved, and if I had that kinda money, I would buy the new Janome Memory Craft 15000 first! I have priorities people! *LOL*

Here are a few more peeks at the dress...

I love a good pink dress. I will more than likely take the seams in a little since I've decided to go for it and lose the last 20 lbs the doctor recommends. Hey, I've already lost most of my me mades might as well go for it...crossing the finish line with a total weight loss of 65 lbs! I'm sure by the moaning & groaning, you'll know when I've arrived. *LOL*

...as always more later!

Vogue 8209 in Glen Plaid

Here are the pics of the suit in action. Again, I see things to improve upon for next time. I've already cut out the fabric for another jacket/dress combo in navy blue...

I really don't like me in a suit or a jacket with a collar. However, some situations just call for one and there is no way around it. In this instance, I used a collarless jacket with a matching straight skirt. For these pictures, I wanted to share movement shots rather than "glamour or posed" shots of the suit so these are atypical on purpose. 

Some Stats ~
Fabrics:
4 yards of a wool/poly glen plaid from Fabric Mart
2 yards of white bemberg rayon lining from Low Price Fabrics

Notions:
yards and yards of white rayon seam tape
(that was folded & pressed before being sewn to the seams)
1/2" shoulder pads
1 - 1" button from the button collection
1 yard 1" non-roll elastic
Steam-A-Seam 2 - 1/4" wide

The Jacket ~

Taking the jacket off so you can see the innards

The Skirt ~
The skirt is simple. An elastic waist unlined straight skirt. The hem has Steam-A-Seam 2 in the hemline. It's the fabric wrapped around my body with the selvedges serged off and sewn closed. Then I added a 1.5" casing and stitched the top and bottom of the casing to enclose the elastic. I've included a front and back shot of me in the skirt.

I hope I didn't overwhelm you with pics, just wanted to show all the details of the suit. If you have any questions regarding the construction of the suit, please see the last blog post. Like I said above, I've already begun working on the next version.

...as always more later!