Saturday, February 21, 2015

Butterick 6142 - A Pleather and Wool Version

When the Butterick 6142 pattern was released, it reminded me of this top I'd pinned to one of my boards on Pinterest:



At the time I started working on the pants, I thought I would get both pieces finished prior to Christmas week, well that didn't happen!  As you can see since it's the middle of February! *LOL* When I finally cut the pattern pieces out I changed a few of my original ideas for this outfit. Some were design changes and some were added after the top was a little too tight.




  • I omitted the lace because the stash didn't yield up anything that wouldn't make the outfit look like eveningwear.
  • I changed the fabric from black ponte to a black poly/wool crepe suiting I purchased from Fabric Mart during one of the 50% off sales. Please note this probably added to some of my challenges since the pattern clearly states that you should use a knit fabric for the pieces.
  • Pleather accents were added also to the top and the pants.
  • A lining was also added to both the top and pants by underlining the fashion fabric.

Here's my finished garment:



Pattern Alterations  Design Changes:

The Shaped Hem Tunic ~
I made minimal changes to the pattern pieces. Again there is a little buggin' out going on here because I'm not use to NOT making huge changes to the pattern pieces. Here are the pattern alterations and design changes I made.

First - the back and front pattern pieces are single pieces.  Two large pieces that you lay on the fabric and cut out!  Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone and I put a center back seam in the top's back.  



I marked the center back, cut it from top to bottom and added 5/8" seam allowances to both pieces. I decided to go this way because I wanted to add sleeves to the top. This top with sleeves was just not slipping over my head without some assistance.  I took it even further and added a 9" black invisible zipper to the neckline also.

Since I used a woven, I added a little to the center front of the top to gently glide over my abdomen and hips by simply slicing up to the waistline marking and spreading the pattern pieces.




If I make this pattern again, I'm going to cut the front apart and add space that way. If...I...ever...make...this...pattern...again! *LOL*

The Sleeve ~
The sleeve pattern from the dress was used for the top...although I still needed to make changes to the biceps...cause I haven't managed to lose any weight there! Again I started with an older sleeve pattern to make the alterations.  And that's when this started to go south and head there so quickly. *sigh* I put those dayum sleeves in three times...and removed them three times. I just couldn't get them in without a multitude of wrinkles down the length of the sleeve or way too much fabric in the sleeve cap. Then I just got disgusted and threw them in the garbage. My top is sleeveless...I couldn't take any more.

Then I tried the top on and disaster...it was too tight. Peoples, annoyed was an understatement for how I felt at that point. But I put my thinking cap on and decided to add a pleather triangle on the other side of the top to match the one on the top front. BTW the pleather piece ended up on the front because I wasn't paying attention when sewing the front and back together. So I improvised ~ yet again. 



Miracles of miracles this last improvisation worked...except it made a funny wrinkle on the back. Now I really was done...seriously done...turned everything off and went upstairs and read a book.  Pick this up six weeks later, I've lost another five pounds, so I try on the top and mercy me, it fits. Well actually the triangle stuck out because the top was loose, so I altered where the fabric and pleather triangle met and wallah...top fits.

I know I've talked about slow sewing lately and using the best techniques BUT I just wanted this done!  So I turned under all the edges at the neckline, the armholes and the hemline, topstitched, pressed and it was finished. Thank you God ~ it's no longer a wadder! 



The Pants ~
I originally made the pants out of a jersey ponte during the blogging hiatus. Based upon that make, I altered the pants pattern for a better fit. To make this version I went with the currently altered pattern because I wanted to see how they'd wear in a woven fabric. Well that was wrong!  Those suckers were so tight they wouldn't go over my thighs. So I decided that sewing for my new shape wasn't working and I put the pants to the side.

But once the top fit, I was inspired to figure out how to make the pants work. I decided to add a 3" pleather strip to the side of each pants leg and use 1/2" seam allowances to attach them to the pants. Since there are pleather accents on the top, I thought this would work well with the pants.  This meant taking the pants apart but I was fine with that, as long as the pants became wearable.



The strip did work so I added the elastic to the waistline (more on it's application in a future post), ripped the inner leg seams and made them a little smaller, then hemmed the pants. Outfit complete.




Conclusion ~
This is not a work outfit. I've been going out a lot more after work and I would definitely wear this out and about in NYC.  Also, both the top and pants are a closer fitting silhouette than I've been accustomed to wearing. Honestly, this is taking some getting use to but baggy garments lately have just made me look like I'm wearing someone else's clothes...not a good look!

Finally, I'm a huge fan of the mixed materials look in garments. I love mixing pleather with wools and pontes. I have a few ideas for a couple more garments using pleather - don't know if they will make it out of my sewing machine before spring comes - but as long as the trend continues I will be making more versions of it.









46 comments:

  1. So chic! Carolyn I love this outfit and you've inspired me to introduce a little pleather into my upcoming winter sewing.

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  2. Snazzy outfit! One of the hard parts of losing weight is figuring out fit--both how things look and how they feel. This is closer fitting than you're used to--but definitely not too close. It looks great!

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  3. Oh, yes, I love this! You are looking so good, Carolyn. I have a few sleeveless things which became that way when I threw the sleeves in the bin too - my arms never lost weight either. But your arms look terrific, very toned. Mine are like flags :(
    You are so inspirations, and I am sooooo happy you are back. Off to my sewing cave now...

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  4. So glad you worked out how to get this to fit, it is a very stylish outfit and you look amazing in it.

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  5. Just had to comment, you are look fabulous!

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  6. Ooh, fancy! This looks really good on you. Definitely a nice goin' out outfit.

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  7. I love it! And it's so good to see you back on your blog -- you've been missed.

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  8. LOVE the style of this top! It looks great. :)

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  9. You look stunning. Love the outfit.

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  10. There is so much to love about this... 1. You look amazing. 2. The stripe on the pant leg. 3. The mix of the fabrics together is badass! 4. That you not only saved a wadder, but elevated it. Knocked it out of the park, Carolyn!!!

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  11. Really enjoyed reading about your struggles with fitting and adapting these garments. It is a period of disruption in your sewing world and you certainly came out victorious. I got my hands on some black pleather and ponte, so I am also scratching my head over how I will use it.

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  12. Tim Gunn would be proud. You definitely made it work!

    I love everything about this look!

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  13. Excellent set of alterations, and an excellent, modern, edgy result. I'd so wear those slacks to work - and even the whole outfit, with a longish cardi, as it does have a "work to evening" kind of vibe.

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  14. I love your top and I'm so copying your top, lol.

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  15. You are back with a bang! This outfit looks fantastic on you!!! You did an amazing job of taking this from flop to fabulous.

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  16. My first reaction was "wow, look at those svelte arms!", then I thought about how fabulous the outfit is. You are an inspiration! Thanks for sharing your sewing journey!

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  17. You look great in this outfit!

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  18. Only one word for this outfit and you wearing it...SASSY! The top and pants are just about as cool as you can get and it looks so expensive and well fitting...BRAVA Carolyn!

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  19. Carolyn, before I go get to the comment section; I was yelling, "yessss" LOL! Lady you are doing a thing, you here me! You fantastic!

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  20. I love happy endings to the "improvisation" journey! Fab ensemble!

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  21. You look stunning in this outfit. I so love the addition of the 'tuxedo stripe' on the outer leg to tie it all together.

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  22. Very nice! I especially love the trousers!

    Rose in SV

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  23. You look BADASS. I love love love this look on you! I just bought some pleather yesterday to embellish a wool top... you must have psychically implanted the idea in my head!!!

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  24. Fabulous outfit. Love that top. You are looking great.

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  25. Looking stunning and love the outfit.

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  26. Wow, great save with the top! It looks great on you and like how you used the pleather for the pants as well.

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  27. Awesome!! Love the look and love your documentation of the process. Best "save" of a frustrating project I've ever seen:)

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  28. Wow, Carolyn! I love the outfit.

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  29. You look like you're melting away... Congrats- those separates look great1

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  30. This is so stylish, edgy and flattering. I'll be keeping this idea in mind for the Aussie winter!

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  31. I haven't had time to read blogs in days. This post stopped me in my tracks! Girl, you look fly! I love this! Get it Carolyn!

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  32. I iknow this outfit had to go somewhere outside of the house...it is just to hot to not be seen!!! What a great fun outfit! I love everything about it, including that "SASSY" photo of you (2 one down), I LOVE IT!

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  33. This outfit is so sharp looking! The shoes are great!!

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  34. Wow, one sassy lady!!!

    Carolyn, you look amazing in this outfit. it is stylish and also edgy and I love it all! Now, weather permitting, get out there and have fun,

    with much care and admiration, Michelle downunder in Wellington, New Zealand

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  35. I LOVE that outfit! You look absolutely wonderful in it too. The weight loss is more than just noticeable. You look fantastic! I see lots and lots of great things coming out of your sewing room this year.

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  36. Love this Carolyn!! Super cool mix of fabrics.

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  37. Did you know the high end catalogs are calling pleather vegan leather?!!! Such a fantastic outfit, and you are looking so fine yourself!

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  38. Super cute outfit. I like the sassy picture. ;-)

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  39. Turned out lovely! You have wonderful taste and style! I hope to learn from you & give some of your wonderful ideas a shot!

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  40. I've been out of the sewing circle lately but really enjoyed your post. You are looking smokin' hot! Love this outfit on you.

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