I love gingham and spent some time collecting several colors and sizes of this beloved fabric. I've used it for accents in garments and for actual garments, here and here. So it's no surprise that I used some to brighten up this blue chambray maxi shirtdress.
This is the third version in my shirtdress making series. As I was constructing this dress, I realized how similar this is to another dress...guess I'm losing my originality! Honestly though there is a part of me that just doesn't care. I really am more interested in being comfortable and appropriately dressed than anything else.
Supply List ~
- 4.5 yards Blue Chambray purchased from Fabric Mart's Brick & Mortar Store during Carriage Corner Sew Camp
- 1/2 yard light blue gingham also purchased from Fabric Mart's Brick & Mortar Store during Carriage Corner Sew Camp
- 10 3/4" covered button shells from my notions collection
(There's an interesting story to these covered button shells. I have to share it some day.)
- Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
Design Changes ~
To distinguish between this version and all of the others previously made and to come, I changed the sleeves. I wanted a longer sleeve but not so long the dress would be uncomfortable to wear in the summer. I decided to add a below elbow length sleeve with a tie.
Here's how I made it:
o I added 5" to the bottom of the short sleeve
o Made a band 4" wide by 35" long from the chambray
o Added a line of gathering stitches to the hemline of the sleeve
o Sewed the band to the sleeve hemline using a 5/8" seam allowance applying the center back of the band to the armhole seam
o I left a one inch opening at the front of the sleeve to make it easier to tie the band
o Topstitched the entire band after tucking in the ends
Those are the only changes I made. It's the fabric speaking for this dress. I wanted a chambray maxi shirtdress and the gingham additions highlight the differences.
A Few Pictures ~
This not only fulfills my need for a chambray maxi shirtdress but also checks off one of the garments in my Chicos wardrobe. While I may not be sewing from the cut pile right now, I am going back to it because I really do want those pieces in my closet.
My daughters have been amazing during this time. They've picked up groceries for me so I wouldn't have to go to the stores since I'm in the high risk category, and brought my grand kids by so I can talk to them through the car windows...cause Face Time is not all that! Today she showed up with some groceries, caught me taking pictures on the porch and volunteered to photograph this dress before heading home.
It took me awhile to come around to photographing these dresses. It seemed silly to be prancing around on the porch or in the front yard wearing pretty dresses during this crazy time. But I guess we're finding joy and stress/anxiety relief wherever we can find it. This 15 minutes we shared made my day and gave me a little normalcy back. Especially when she criticized my hair (she usually does it when we take pictures) and her naming my dress "The Prairie Dress."
There are two more dresses to share...they will show up here sooner rather than later!
...as always more later!
My plan was to start my May Sewcation with this shirtdress first but I made the failed B6333 shirtdress before this one. See, I was a little put off when I opened the pattern instructions and there were four pages of instructions on how to alter the pattern. While this is a good thing, it took me for a loop...probably because I was opening the pattern at 1am!
After going back to the pattern and reading the alterations, great info on those pages btw, I went with my TNT method of altering a pattern...using a garment I'd previously sewn and knew worked for my body. I used Vogue 2090 last sewn in 2013 (before it became part of the Embellished Shirtdress series) to assist with making the alterations.
Supply List ~
- Embroidered striped fabric purchased earlier this year from Emmaonesock
- Yellow gingham from Fabric Mart (recent purchase from Sew Camp)
- Fusible interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics
- 12 yellow buttons from Lauren Trimming in NYC Garment District
- 1/2 yard yellow piping from Daytona Trimmings
- 1 yard of yellow bias binding from the notions stash
Pattern Alterations ~
I made considerable alterations to this pattern since the finished hip measurements were 50.5" so not my finished garment hip measurement. Also the waist/abdomen measurements were about 6" less than my own.
As I stated above, I altered the pattern pieces using my TNT pattern. Although when I reviewed the pattern, I realized that I ended up altering the front and side back pieces just like the pattern instructions suggested. But by using my TNT pattern, I didn't have to guess at the amount of inches to add.
The other pieces that I altered was the back yoke piece and the front top yoke - just to make sure they fit the newly altered body pieces.
Construction ~
I'm one of those sewists who serge finishes all of her cut out garment pieces before I start construction but for this one I finished the seams as I sewed them. I'm trying something new and was scared the entire time that the dress wouldn't fit because I just couldn't imagine taking out the serged together edges if I needed to make some fit alterations.
Some more info:
- All the body seams are sewn using a 1/2" seam allowance.
- The fabric was difficult to sew at points because of the density of the embroidery.
- So I omitted all of the topstitching so it wouldn't be wonky when it hit embroidery.
- There's a lot of handstitching in this since I couldn't topstitch the seams...undercollar to dress and the front button bands.
- The handstitching let me maneuver through the dense embroidery easier but took FOREVER!
- The buttonholes had to be carefully placed so that I wouldn't hit any of the dense embroidery. I knew my sewing machine wouldn't like them. So I was going to take them to Jonathan's in NYC to make them instead.
- However, when I went to mark the buttonholes I noticed that the majority of the buttonholes were in a space that did not have embroidery. So I gave it a try. Some were a little challenging but my machine I got through them all! I love my sewing machine!!!
- This is why this is the last garment being shared from the May Sewcation.
There were a lot of pattern pieces to this pattern so it took some time to sew. It was the perfect pattern to use during the sewcation. It allowed everything with all it's frustrations to be completed at one sewing instead of being stretched over a couple of weekends.
A few pictures ~
Conclusion ~
I will make this pattern again. It's the perfect summer shirtdress. I have fabric for a shorter length version so I need to schedule that into my sewing to do list. However, it may make an appearance in a fall edition too!
...as always more later!
Halfway through my Sewcation I got overwhelmed. The Sewcation started with two garments that were less than thrilling and nothing was working the way I planned. When Butterick 6333 was a sewing fail it kinda blew up my sewcation plan. I had to figure out what to do next...so I literally slept most of Wednesday. It didn't hurt that I had to deal with a plumbing problem that will require redoing my second bathroom faster than I wanted to...yeah, glad I have fabric to sew from in the meantime!
I've found when I'm having sewing challenges, pivot towards a TNT pattern. It helps me move past the blockage because it's easy sewing (all those fit issues have been worked out) and it allows me to just dream and sew. Since Vogue 2090 was out, I decided to move in that direction.
After I decided what pattern to use, the hunt was on for fabric...and when I say hunt I mean hunt. Since I was operating off plan, I had to go through the fabric shelves to find new pieces. I knew I wanted linen and a floral. After going through a few shelves of printed fabrics, I decided on this blue/purple floral.
Supply List ~
The linen was purchased last summer during one of Fabric Mart's end of summer sales. I added a large white rick rack from the notions stash. I've had it so long I have no idea where I purchased it. The white mother of pearl buttons are also from the button stash. The interfacing is the last of the Fashion Supply Interfacing stash.
Since this is a TNT sew there are no pattern alterations or new construction information. I added the white rick rack on the collar and on the hem of the sleeve for embellishment.
A few pictures ~
Conclusion ~
This is just the first of the shirtdresses that I made using this pattern. I wanted to add a bunch of these to my wardrobe this summer because they are loose-fitting and perfect for the hot, humid days that are to come. This pattern along with M7470 will fulfill my shirtdress needs.
I'm calling this "The Embellished Shirtdress" series. Each dress has a different type of trim or embroidery on it and why I've named it The Embellished Shirtdress Series.
Next up is a denim version of Vogue 2090.
...as always more later!
I'm planning to sew a couple of shirtdresses this summer/fall. Most of them are from shirtdress patterns currently available in the pattern catalogues. I definitely want to make another Cashmerette Lenox Shirtdress and at least one McCalls version and a Butterick one, too.
However, I've wanted to make a dress version of my TNT button front shirt since I made my second one. I was a little concerned that the dress would be a little too flowy, overwhelming or maternity looking. Lately though, I've seen several types of flowy, oversized versions online, so I was encouraged to go ahead with my own.
Now this look isn't going to be for everyone...but I made it for those really hot, humid and sweltery days in NYC where a nice loose-fitting dress is the perfect thing to wear. Personally, I can't stand close-fitting on those days so this one fits the bill!
Materials ~
Yellow striped 100% cotton shirting from the collection via Fabric Mart
Linen floral scraps used in this skirt - fabric from Marcy Tilton
Notions ~
14 - 5/8" covered buttons made from the linen floral scraps
Pattern Alterations ~
-I lengthened the front tunic length pattern pieces 10" and the main back piece also.
-The sleeve was made elbow length and the hemline was widen by 1/2" on either side.
-I added a 2" band of the linen fabric to the short sleeve.
Construction Changes ~
The only construction differences between the dress and my other shirts are the sleeves. If you need the original construction information for the shirt, it's contained in this post.
I guess I've really fallen down the #yearofthesleeve rabbit hole. Because this is a simple change made impactful by choosing a different fabric to coordinate with the pinstripe. Then again if you've been following along for a minute, you will know that I've consistently made changes to my sleeves to add some ummph to my garments!
I added the printed linen to the undercollar, neckband, buttons and sleeve band to give the dress a little more pizzazz. It is a striped fabric that reads pale yellow from a distance, so it needed that extra color to save it from looking like a house dress.
Also, even though I've made hundreds of buttonholes, I was intrigued by the YouTube video by Johanna who blogs at The Last Stitch. Check out this video on her tips "How to Sew Great Buttonholes." Cause even though I've made my share, I did learn something new. For those who've asked which sewing videos I watch, Johanna's YouTube videos are on my list!
A few pictures of the dress ~
Even though I was on vacation last week, this is the only sewing that I did. Some home repairs stopped me from sewing a couple of the days I was home. I spent a day in NYC with Shams fabric shopping and finished the week in Tampa visiting a friend. The only bad thing about the week was that I wasn't able to meet up with Debbie Cook and Myra as I had originally planned. But ladies I promise when I'm back in Tampa later this year, I will definitely get with you!
The grandkids were here with their mother while she took pictures...here are a few of the outtakes ~
Perfectly good shots that were enhanced by running little people, sigh!
Anyway, I've spent very little time in front of my sewing machine and amazingly I'm not lusting to get back to it. So I don't know what's up next but I'm sure I will be sewing something next weekend!
...as always more later!
