One more sleeve hack...

This time I decided to share the technique before the dress' reveal. Partly because it was a good sewing weekend and I didn't want to stop and take pictures and partly because my photographer wasn't around.

The sleeves are what makes the difference between the last two dresses. The rose and white dress has a split sleeve with a banded tie. How that banded tie is constructed is what's featured in this post.

Honestly, that tie took me three tries to get right and I almost gave up on it! I photographed all the steps so that I would have them memorialized in case I want to do this again...okay, not so sure about that last statement!

Here is how I made the split sleeve with tie ~

The sleeve alterations are the easy part. Take the sleeve and fold it in half, then press it flat:

Lay the pressed sleeve flat and cut the pressed edge leaving a full inch from the sleeve cap:

Serge finish the edge and press back 3/8" just pass the serging:

Stitch all the way around the cut edge:

Put the sleeve aside until it's time to insert it into the garment.

To make the band ~
- I decided that I wanted the band to be 2" wide, so I started with a 3" band. 
- That gave me 1/2" seam allowances. 
- I made a pattern piece for the tie that was 3" wide and 17" long. 
- This is what fit the hemline of the sleeve measured with enough fabric to form a knot with a tie that didn't hang over too far on my arm. 
- I rounded the end of the pattern because I didn't want a square ended tie. 
- Each band consists of two pieces sewn together. 

My finished band/tie was a trial and error situation. I made two attempts before the third one looked the way I wanted it to. I'd also cut my sleeve too long so I had to remove 4" from the hemline of the sleeve.

Attaching the band ~
The rounded ends of the band was clipped and graded before the band was turned and pressed flat.

The two pieces of the bands were sewn together until where it needed to be attached to the sleeve hem.

Then the band was stitched to the sleeve hem. Finally the entire band was topstitched.

Here is what the final sleeve looks like on the dress on Lulu. Yeah, my girl really needs some legs...*sigh*

I posted the construction pics to Instagram last week and promised that there would be words/directions to explain the process here. I hope that these are clear. If not, please feel free to leave a question and I will answer it.

Next up on the blog are the last two Concord Tee dresses. I know that I said I would make five but I got tired of working with the pattern, so I've ended up with four. I think I hacked myself out. LOL! 

Also all the other Concord Tee's will be shown with the bottoms I made or am making to go with them. I have nothing new to say about their construction, so they will make an appearance later. I have worn this pattern out. There are other patterns on my list and/or garments that I want to sew so I'm moving on.

...as always more later!

Adding the Ruffle Sleeve to a Concord Tee Pattern

As I said in my previous post, I saw this sleeve on a young lady in the streets of NYC. When I saw it I immediately thought of the sleeve from View D of McCalls 7542. Cause it's so obviously "The Year of the Sleeve!"

I know this is a popular pattern and I own it for ALL of those sleeve variations. I'm sure that other versions of the sleeves will show up here on future garments.

The sleeve for this tee was the easiest to make ~

- The most important thing is to make sure the diameter of the sleeve is the same as the diameter of the ruffle.  
- I measure the sewn sleeve's hem diameter.  
- Then I measure the circle that fits closest to my sleeve hem and mark that on the pattern piece.
- The circle is traced onto the cut out ruffle piece.
- I carefully cut the center out and then serged it to finish it.
- The ruffle hem was stitched down a 1/4" and pressed.

Finally the sleeve was pinned to the sleeve and sewn down.

Seriously that's it. Easy Peasy!

Now the Flamingo Ruffle took a little more work ~
For drama I used two circles. At first I thought that I would make two of the same size ruffle and sew one a little lower down from the first ruffle. However, after a good night's sleep, I realized that one ruffle should be larger than the other one.

To achieve the larger lower ruffle, I added 1.5" all the way around the circle. there was no set formula to it, I just went with what I thought would look best. 

1. First the edges are serge finished and hemmed by turning the serged edge under and stitched flat. 
2. The circular opening/stitching line has been drawn onto both pieces. 
3. The circles are layered over each other so that the stitching lines match.  

Next the centers were stitched together on the stitching line.

The centers were then cut out and pressed flat.

Then the edges were serge finished.

The double ruffle was stitched to the sleeve.

I pressed the seam up and stitched it flat on the outside of the sleeve.

Here's a view of the double ruffle attached to the sleeve. Now a couple more things you should be aware of:

- I started with a sleeve that was one inch longer than the elbow length notches on the sleeve pattern. 
- My thought was that this would get me a sleeve that was almost to my wristbone. 
- I didn't want it too long because I didn't want it dragging into things.

It did provide the drama that I wanted and I'm thrilled with the final result!

I really am happy with this dress and hope that the tutorial will help you make a dress or tee with flamingo sleeves!

There are a few more tees and dresses on the way, so that's what's up next on the blog.

...as always more later!

Learning to Fit Using Your Tried 'n True Patterns

Today is the last day to register for the seminar!  I really hope you will join me tomorrow at 11 am!

...as always more later!

Burda Style Webinar ~ Learning to Fit Using a TNT Pattern

Join me on Thursday, July 24th at 11am EST for a 60 minute seminar on "How to Fit Using Your Tried 'n True Patterns."  To register for the seminar, please check out this link.

I posted this to my Instagram Account yesterday and there was a question raised about the seminar being held during work hours ~ at least here in the US. After checking with the wonderful Burda Style coordinator, who helped me set up my training session and was awesome to work with, she assured me that if you sign up for the training and don't attend in real time, will receive a recording of the seminar.  

So I truly hope that if you want to go even more in-depth on fitting with your TNT pattern, that you will sign up for the seminar.

...as always more later!

Calling all New York Sewists!

If you're looking for an interesting, info-infilled, stimulating and mojo-inspiring sewing adventure, head on over to Mood Fabrics and register for the Kenneth King Seminar on interlining.  I will let the ad below speak for itself...but if you've ever taken a class with Kenneth King, you know that you're in for a treat!  So head on over and register...you know you want to do it...so go ahead...I guarantee that you won't be disappointed!

Mood NYC Seminars

Seminars and tutorials

Interlining for Fashion Sewing

Want to sew dresses and other garments that look and wear like high-priced RTW and couture? The secret is in the interlining. Noted sewing authority Kenneth D. King will explain how adding an interlining layer can improve the look, feel and functionality of your fabric. He’ll review the many different types of interlining, from organza to wool flannel, and will discuss which interlining fabric is right for any type of garment. Knowing and understanding about interlining will kick your sewing up to the next level, guaranteed! Space is limited, so register today!  Wednesday, July 18, 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm Mood Fabrics NYC 225 W. 37th Street, 3rd Floor New York, NY About the instructor: Kenneth D. King is a couture designer in NYC. He is also a contributing editor of Threads Magazine, author of Cool Couture, and a leading sewing instructor.

Upping My Game in 2012

I truly believe that there is always something new to learn...even with sewing, especially with sewing.  Times change and technology has invaded all aspects of our lives...including sewing...so there are new ways to learn things.  Because of that I recently signed up for Susan Khaljie's, "Couture Dress" class at Craftsy.  In full disclosure, I have yet to watch one of the classes but one of the reasons I signed up for them is because I can view them whenever I want and I can watch them over and over again.  I enjoyed her sewing show on the DIY network, so it's good to glean some knowledge from her again.  I'm sure that I will learn something new or see something in a different way that will enhance and take my sewing to another level.

www.powersewing.com

In that same vein, I also signed up for Sandra Betzina's, Video Sewing Lessons.  I own every book that she's written, quite a few of her Vogue patterns and use to watch her faithfully on HGTV when she hosted a sewing show there.  She has definitely influenced my sewing in the past and I'm hopeful that she will help me up my sewing game in 2012.

I'm sure you're wondering why I need to take some video classes since I obviously know how to sew and have a pretty extensive sewing library...and the answer is simple...there is always something new to learn. I will report back on how the video classes are working for me...gotta carve some time out to sit and watch them...but I'm excited!

...as always, more later!