Playing with Stripes

This shirt is inspired by a fellow sewist, Pauline, who's IG handle is Jamaican Princess 215. I wanted to use a shirt fabric to make another version of the Vogue 9299 tunic. I've got loads of these "business" type shirting fabrics in the collection, so finding ways to use them for my lifestyle now is an ongoing challenge. Using the fabric for this tunic is more reflective of who I am now.

Because I chose to use a stripe shirting, I got to play with the stripes. It's the part that really excited me about using it for this tunic. It also went along with the fabric journey I was on using various borderprints to create new looks. 

Supplies ~

3 yards cotton shirting from the fabric collection via Fabric Mart

10 buttons from Nancy's Notions in Lancaster, PA

Pattern - Vogue 9299 

This is my fifth version of this pattern. I've made it enough times now that's all about playing with fabric to make each one different. I also changed up the sleeves on this one. The previous four had elastic sleeve hems. I added a cuff to these sleeves from my TNT shirt pattern. I wanted to pay homage to the fabric and give it more a shirting tunic look.

Because this one is made from shirting fabric it also fits a little closer than my previous versions. Adding a layer under it (the sleeveless turtleneck top) also made a difference. Finally it's always amazing how much fabric can change how a garment's made, wears and fits.

Ultimately, my goal is to have a wardrobe of these that I can wear in all seasons with either leggings, jeans or capris. It's comfortable, easy to wear and covers my body which is important to me. I have one more to share and then I'm giving the pattern a rest. At the end of 2020, I bought several indie and Big4 tops that I want to try.

So a Few Pictures ~

Conclusion ~

This is one of my holiday vacation sews. I got it to the point where it needed buttons and buttonholes and it sat. While I probably won't wear this until it gets a little warmer out, it did need to be documented.  

I have one more Vogue tunic on my cutting table in a quilting cotton borderprint that I bought from Zooks in Lancaster, PA during the August Sew Camp at Carriage Corners B&B. 

Next up are more holiday vacation sews. If you've been following along, you know I love a borderprint.  I made a couple of shirts using borderprints which are fun and interesting. Can't wait to share these with you!

...as always more later!

A Floral Borderprint Simplicity 8658

These next posts will share my holiday break sewing. Being that it's winter, bright sunny days are hard to come by...as well as my desire to get out my camera equipment and experiment to get some photos.  Yeah, yeah I know dressform pictures are okay BUT you and I both know that pics on a person are much better!  

Introduction over...let's get to the good stuff!

I saw so many great versions of this pattern on the socials.  Even though it's only sized up to an XL, I wanted to try the pattern out.  So this blog post should be called, "More Adventures in Pattern Alterations!"

While this pattern has been available since 2018 and is still on their website, I of course am just getting around to making my own version.

Some Details...

Fabric:  

Cotton Sateen border print purchase from Fabric Mart's brick 'n mortar store during Carriage Corner Sew Camp.

9" black invisible zipper

3/4" elastic for the sleeve hems - the pattern recommends 1/2" - I only had 3/4" on hand

Of course there were some pattern alterations...

The finished hemline was 55" and I needed a little more room. I altered the front and back pieces by using a pivot and slide method, then cutting open the side seam to give myself the needed room.  I added 17 inches because I like alot of wearing ease and a looser fit these days! 

Pictures of the alterations below...

I added 9" to both pattern pieces by increasing the side and center back area.  

1. I also added 9" to the ruffle sides and 2" to the hemline. 
2. I wanted an extra flouncy and full ruffle so the added inches covered not only the amount I added to the front & back pattern pieces but also a little extra.  This is probably the only kind of flounce I like! 
3. Also important to me was getting full body coverage with the tunic.
4. I did not alter the sleeves. I normally have enough room in a raglan sleeve and this time was no different.

Some construction information...

• I used a border print cotton sateen for this version and the fun for me was in the tetris problem solving to use the print to its best advantage! 
• Also, my reminder that the best finish is solved during the cutting process.  This is the part that takes the longest and sometimes tests my resolve but it's so worth it in the end.
• I do not lay out all the pieces and cut them at once.
• The main body pieces are cut first and then the other pieces are cut around them so that I get the best match of the print.
• My only other change was to add a 9" invisible zipper in the back neck. I just don't like button & loop closures.
• Otherwise I sewed it according to the pattern instructions. I usually follow the pattern instructions on a first sew! LOL!

A Few Pictures ~

...you always need a twirling photo!

Conclusion ~

I'm definitely sewing this again, in all honesty I already own the fabric for it. I love the flounce and the length. In this version, I also like how the end of the border print formed a perfect border/ribbon like hemline. It's perfect worn over a pair of leggings and works well with my new relaxed style.

I completed five garments during the break and I have one more almost done. So as the sun shines, I will get them up here on the blog. My sewing was the perfect start to 2022.  It allowed me to claim my creativity back, calmed and soothed my soul and added a few new pieces to my wardrobe!

...as always more later!

Panel Print Magic

This shirt has been finished for weeks. It's taken time to get another appointment with my daughter to photograph it. Technically it should have been photographed with the last bunch of summer dresses but that day was so dayum hot, I just couldn't handle wearing it for pictures.

Y'all know I love panel prints, border prints, directional prints, any fabric really that makes me think outside the box when using it. So of course in August during the Fabric Mart shopping spree, border and panel prints were on the top of my purchase list. I've recently acquired quite a few border/panel prints from Fabric Mart and many have made it to the blog ~ here, here, here and here.   Also, if you're new to the blog, I've written several blog posts about working with border prints, just follow the highlighted link.

For this panel print, it was the bold floral that called my name. It was such a strong calling that I sewed this up weeks after I got home. 

Supplies ~

Pattern:  Vogue 9299

Fabric:  6 cotton sateen panels from Fabric Mart's brick 'n mortar store

Buttons:  12 black domed 5/8" buttons from MJ Trimmings

Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

There are no new construction techniques in this make. For this tunic it's all about the fabric placement. 

So I'm sharing some of my construction/pattern placement pictures...

Laying the pattern pieces out to get the best placement

Matching the print on the back

Matching the print at the sleeve cap to the shirt body

Front using a sliver of the black fabric 

to add contrast to the front

Back with the yoke added to it

A Few Photos ~

I've worn this tunic to work and received a couple of compliments on it. The tunic makes a dramatic statement that's tempered by the solid black sides which add a slimming effect to it. This is the reason I love border prints and panels so much! 

It's not the last time I will use this pattern this fall/winter because it works perfectly for my lifestyle. I have more ideas using prints & stripe placements to make it sing! Plus can you really have too many comfortable tunics that layer well during the chillier weather?

...as always more later!

Why Make It Again?

I love the Vogue 9299 pattern with the changes I've made to it. It works for my lifestyle now...for zoom meetings at home and for in person days at work. It's casual with a dressed feel that makes me feel well put together when I wear it.  This makes my third one...  

I have another one completed with numbers 4 and 5 swirling around in my mind. Honestly I will probably make several more during fall/winter because it's the type of garment that works well in a multitude of fabrics. Cottons, silks, denim/chambray, wools and corduroys would all make great toppers and a wonderful wardrobe of tunics. 

This garment gives me an alternative to my shirt collection. While I have plans to weed out my shirts and probably make a couple more, I like the length and layering ability of this tunic.

Fabric Choice ~

The tunic is made from a gifted fabric from Dibs at Selvedge & Bolts.  I understand that I'm supposed to use gifted fabric right away but I don't always "see" a garment immediately. So while I was gifted this fabric last year, I've just used it.  When I was looking for a blue fabric to make this version, I touched this lightweight linen and knew immediately it would make the perfect tunic!

BTW, may I stop here and say that Dibs fabric store is amazing.  She has a wonderful selection of designer goods. The only challenge is that she's located in the UK and the US dollar/GBP is more favorable to the Brits. I may have another designer piece purchased from her that was worth the price and the wait. So go visit her online shop!

Construction/Techniques ~

There are no new construction techniques in this version. I constructed it at Sew Camp and used buttons from the collection. They were previously used in this garment.  However, the buttonholes and buttons were done once I got home.  

Okay now that I've run out of explanations some photos...

We took these pictures on a very warm late summer day and it was perfect! 

...as always more later!

A Borderprint Tunic

I've worn my first Vogue 9299 so much at least once a week! I love that tunic.  It's appropriate to wear to the office and it works for at home zoom meetings too. So as with all good patterns, I've decided I need to make it a few more times.

The Fabric's Backstory ~

The fabric for this make is 9 years old. It was purchased in February 2012 and documented here. I use to buy a lot from Sawyer Brook but not so much anymore.  This is deep stash fabric and there is another story associated with it.

Do you remember when my sewing cave flooded in June 2013? Well this fabric was laying in the bottom of a box on the floor. It and the other two pieces in the box were totally soaked. I quickly took them upstairs and put them in the washer & dryer. The piece made it back into the collection where it resided until I climbed the stairs to my Resource Center and plucked it from it's resting place to use for this garment.

Sewing Supplies ~

Pattern:  Vogue 9299

3 yards of 60" wide border print linen from Sawyer Brook Fabrics - deep stash

9 - 7/8" tan buttons from deep in the button collection

9" of 3/4" elastic for each sleeve hem

Interfacing from Steinlauf and Stoller for collar and button fronts

Construction Techniques ~

What makes this version different from the first one is that I used a border print to highlight the fabric's uniqueness. So it was all about how I cut the pattern pieces out to showcase the border print.  Now y'all know that's the thrill of using a border print, "how can I use it to set off the garment's properties?"

Cutting the front pattern pieces so that it ran down the front of the garment...

Then cutting the collar and undercollar out of pieces of the border

As well as making the sleeve hems highlight the border...going with my rule of three for a border print to really feature this pretty print.

I also changed the back pleat to gathers between the back yoke and bottom pieces. I wanted a slightly different look for this one.

Last thing I added one of my really old labels to the inside yoke because it matched the fabric so well.

A Few Pictures ~

 

Conclusion ~

I love this pattern and will probably make more!  We took these pictures in 95F degree weather and this top was perfect. I didn't feel as if I was overheating or needed to change clothes. I'm sure it will be in my permanent rotation this summer.

This was the last piece in my cut pile so over the Independence Day weekend I will be cutting out summer dresses to sew. I'm using "new" to me patterns. Patterns I've purchased over the years and not sewn, will be getting their turn in the sun to shine.

Parting Shot ~

I added some things to the Sewing Room and finally feel like it's done!  

Now to make the last few changes to the Resource Center and live in these rooms instead of continuing to update/change them.

...as always more later!

Inspired by...

I love JJill, Chicos and Talbots garments. The silhouettes work for me, they're comfortable, and I like the way they use colors and patterns in their garments. So I get excited when a new collection drops online. What colors are they using?  What silhouettes are they remaking? What appeals to me and makes me want to reproduce it?

I'm an old school sewist. Design and fabric drive my makes. When I was in the corporate world I followed a lot of designers and incorporated their ideals into my work wardrobe. Now that my life is more casual, I tend to look to RTW vendors more. While I'm sewing casual, I'm still drawn to classic styling.

The early spring collection on JJill REALLY inspired me. We know I'm already sewing blue garments because of them. I saved a few images of tops that supercharged my sewjo. This is one of them...

...and here is my version.

I started with Vogue 9299 because it has all of the elements of my Inspiration Garment.

Supplies ~

Lightweight blue denim from Stylemaker Fabrics - this was recently purchased and is available here.

9 - 13/16" brass buttons from deep in the button collection

9" of 3/4" elastic for each sleeve hem

Pattern Alterations ~

I altered the body of the tunic to give me a little more room yet retain the close-fitting look. The finished hip measurement is 59.5" on the pattern and I'm more comfortable with 65" for sitting and standing ease. This alteration accomplished that.

To alter the front by I added space to the side seam so that it covered me and allowed the front .

Since the tunic has a yoke in the back. I altered the back bottom pattern piece by using the pivot and slide method. Simple yet effective changes that made the pattern pieces work for my body.

I also changed the sleeve pattern. While the different sleeve options are what makes this Vogue pattern I wanted a simple longer sleeve similar to my Inspiration Garment. Originally I was going to add the cuff but changed my mind as I was constructing the tunic.

To make the wider sleeve, I just slashed and spread the top sleeve piece. Then lengthened it and redrew the sleeve cap. After the changes I traced them onto a new piece of tracing paper to get a clean sleeve pattern.

If I make this again, I would flatten the sleeve cap a little. The elasticized hem is made from a 1" casing. It was topstitched on the top and bottom of the casing to give it a little more ummph. Simple steps that gave the tunic flare.

The Inspiration Garment has pockets. I'm not really a pocket woman. So I omitted them.

Construction ~

Sewing the pattern together was really easy. It's not a hard pattern to put together. The changes I made were:

- Add topstitching in a solid color

- Make the sleeves with an elasticized hem

- Add stay tape pieces to the side seams to strengthen them where they curve/end.

A Few Photos ~

I really like this tunic because it's perfect for working from home and for zoom meetings because of its' front. It will even be great for wearing outside! There's a little pulling at the bustline but that's due to it being dart-less. It's something I can live with and IF I make it again, I would address it.

This was also a pleasant sew. It didn't make me doubt my skills or want to throw it across the room. In these pandemic times, that's truly a win-win! LOL!

...as always more later!