Print Mixing Simplicity 8984

I'm trying to be more specific in my pattern buying.  Not just buying patterns because they're on sale, or I might want to make one because of how it looked on another sewist, or I want to read the instructions. So from the latest Simplicity Fall offerings I only bought three patterns.

All of them are on my fall to sew list. As I was choosing garments to add to my cut pile, I thought it would be great to add one of the new patterns. This one really jumped out at me.

I chose a lightweight pinstriped denim shirting purchased from BlackBird Fabrics last year for the tunic's base. Originally I was looking for a pleather scrap to add as an accent but touched the leftover scraps from this shirt and an idea was born. I love a floral/pinstripe match and there's just enough white in the background of the floral to "tie" both fabrics together. 

That was the genesis for this project. However, this is a new pattern so I'm sure you're wondering about pattern alterations. I started out by measuring my pattern pieces and cut a size 22. Got the top put together and realized that my head would never fit easily through the opening. Tried the top on and struggled to get it on and off. I needed an opening in the back so it's not such a struggle to get the top on.

I had to figure out how to make it work cause I wasn't giving up that print mix! I ended up adding strips that were the length of the bodice and 1.5" wide. Then I added a 11" invisible zipper which opens up the back and allows me to put the top on easily.

The raglan sleeves were wide enough for my bodacious biceps so no alterations were needed there. I didn't need to worry about a waistline since it's gathered. It is a relaxed fit pattern and one of the reasons I chose it.

(Just excuse the junky sewing cave background photos)

I was sure the tunic would fit now...ummm no!  This is how it looked on Daphne, the dressform, because I'm not putting a picture of how it looked on me on the interwebs. It was tight...a little too tight for my comfort. I was pissed! Pissed I tell you. I used good fabric and the last of my floral scraps to make this and now it wasn't wearable. 

So I folded it up and put it on the edge of my cutting table. As I was turning out the lights to go upstairs for the night, the pattern starting whispering to me to not give up on it. Long story short, I pulled another piece of fabric and decided I would make pattern alterations and remake the tunic. However that was the last night of my short vacay and the tunic/fabric/pattern sat.

Last weekend, I picked the tunic up to move it from the cutting table. I needed the space and realized maybe I didn't have to ditch it. Maybe it could be saved. I removed as much as I could from the side seams and the piece I inserted into the back. It gave me an additional 2" and took the bodice from tight to looser fitting.

It meant that I had to take the tunic apart...
- open and resew the side seams with a 3/8" seam allowance instead of 5/8"
- rip open the back side inserts
- reinsert the invisible zipper
- resew the seams with 3/8" seam allowances instead of 5/8"
- added the skirt back but put in small pleats instead of the gathering and like it so much better!

Tried it on and yes it works. It's not as loose as I've been making things (well in my head cause when I look at my back pics my dresses are fitted) but it works.

A couple more things...
* I omitted the pockets. I cut them out but it just seemed like too much on the tunic front.
* The back facings had to be recut since I changed the back opening. I made them longer to cover the zipper.
* After the facing was added, I topstitched it down.
* Two inches were cut off the bottom of the tunic and it was machine stitched with a one inch hem allowance. 

A Few Pictures ~

I'm glad I took the time to alter it and make it work. Honestly, when I finished I wasn't loving it. Though after my daughter photographed it, I was a lot happier with the top. I probably won't make this pattern again. There are just too many patterns and shirts to be made to work on a pattern that I'm only so-so about.

Along with finishing this up, I washed, dried and ironed a pile of fabric that will become more shirts and tunics. They will be coming to the blog soon.


...as always more later!

Cashmerette's Rivermont Top - Second Version

Last year when I made the Rivermont Top I said that I would make it again.  As usual it took me a minute to get back to it...well actually it took me an entire year! *LOL* 

I also said that I would make my next version just like the pattern...mmmmmm I lied. This one is basically made like my first version. I love high/low hemlines and really wanted another version like that. The difference in this one is that the high/low peplum is made from a polyester chiffon.

Some stats ~
Fabric:
Navy rayon/lycra ponte purchased from Mood Fabrics for this project
Polyester floral chiffon purchased from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" navy invisible zipper
Seam tape

Construction ~
This is a simple sew. I made it exactly like I did the first one. Of course, I complicated it by using the chiffon as the high/low peplum. There were two things that changed with this make. One, I added two layers of the peplum to the front to give a little more length to the front.

The second thing is that to insure the chiffon doesn't pull from the ponte (one fabric being heavier than the other) I stitched seam tape into the waistline seam to stabilize it.  Since I used chiffon for the peplum, its unlined...another difference from my original version.

That's it. There are no other changes to the construction of the top.

Then I took pictures of the top and decided that I didn't like it with the second layer. The pictures made it look like I was wearing a tutu over a onesie. Those knit pants just weren't working for me.  So I removed that layer by just cutting it out of the seams and retook the pictures with some jeans.  That's what's pictured below.

A few pictures ~

I wanted something a little casual and funky, out of my wheelhouse. I think I accomplished that with this make. I like it better with just one layer of chiffon as the peplum and I like the swish in the back. Maybe some day I will make the top as it appears on the pattern envelope. Since this is a great pattern hopefully some day soon I will make another maximized version of the dress with a flared skirt. Something else I've been thinking about for a minute!


...as always more later!

Black Ponte Jacket with Lace Trim

This jacket is made using McCalls 7481 as the base and it's Chico inspired.  

I found the inspiration jacket on Chico's website and it started this sewing journey.

Chicos Ponte & Lace Jacket

All of the pattern alterations were completed that's why I started with it. I have two successful versions of the jacket in my closet another reason to use it.

Supply List ~
- 2.5 yards of black ponte fabric from Fabric Mart
- 1.5" lace from Joyce Trimmings
- 3" lace from M&J Trimmings
- black 'n white bias binding from the collection via Fabric Mart
- Five 7/8" black buttons from Pacific Trimmings
- One 1 1/8" black button from WalMart

Construction ~
I made no alterations to this pattern besides choosing the length and omitting the lining.  The Chicos inspiration jacket has a mandarin collar. I decided to use the collar from the pattern. Then I made it a journey because I added lace to the collar. Being extra again...

Side seam pockets were added but they hung funny. I thought of a couple of ideas to make the pockets work but ultimately decided that I didn't need them.  So I unpicked all of that black thread on black ponte fabric. As I was doing it, I realized that I've really grown because there was a time when I would have just chucked the outfit. But my unpicking heros, Grace and Lara have convinced me that ripping is worth it. Sometimes you've just got to do it to make your design idea work.

My silk organza pressing cloth got a work out on this project. I normally don't use one on ponte fabric but since I was doing some heavy duty pressing, I didn't want to put a shine on the fabric.  It was a good decision!

The highlight of this jacket is the lace on the collar, the sleeve and jacket hemlines.

The bias binding finishing on the inside just makes my heart sing. I only had enough in the notions stash to trim out the facings and the hemline.  So the side seams are just serged. BTW, while this bias tape came on a roll, it had to be pressed into shape to be used. It's some of the leftover binding tapes I bought from Fabric Mart over a decade ago.

A Hong Kong finish was used because I love how cleanly it finishes the seams. To me its worth the extra time and effort this finishing takes. There are loads of tutorials on how to sew Hong Kong binding in a garment, just Google it. I would hate to recommend one since there are various sewists showing how the technique is done and probably one of them is a fave of yours.

A few pictures ~

Wearing it with my TNT sleeveless white 

shirt made earlier this year!

This picture illustrates why I should stand up straight!

Wearability Factor ~
I wore this to work and out to lunch with a sewing friend this week. I dressed it down with sneakers and a ponytail and even then someone at work mentioned how dressed up I looked! LOL! I'm just not winning that one. However, since I made the jacket from ponte, it was very comfortable to wear. My other two makes include an outerwear jacket and a special events jacket. 

Conclusion ~
This is my third version of this jacket and I still haven't made it the way it appears on the pattern envelope! I think that's why I like the pattern so much ~  because of it's possibilities. I did check on the website and this pattern is now out of print. Which is sad because it's a great pattern to take creative journeys.  The pattern is still on the website if you want one. I'd like to use this pattern to make a few more everyday jackets, so expect to see it again.

The other thing I really liked about constructing this jacket was the details. All those extra special things really made the sewing fun. This is the type of sewing that makes me happiest. I can sew a quick project but it's not what makes my creative being sing. Give me a sewing challenge, throw in as many elements as possible to end up with a cohesive and unique garment and I'm happy. I was very happy making this jacket! *LOL*

This was the last garment I made during my Thanksgiving Break and my favorite make of the bunch. It was also the most intensive. I honestly didn't think I would get it finished in time to be photographed during the last session with my daughter. I'm glad I did. 

There is one more garment left from the photos, the Rivermont Top. It will be up next. The last of the "Border Print Series" shirts will be on the blog after that. 

...as always more later!

Myosotis in Velvet

This is a total left field make. Especially since it seems like so much of my sewing lately has become "statement sewing" instead of basics. I've reached the point in my sewing where I'm taking creative journeys instead of sewing necessary garments. I can pretty much guarantee that 2019 is going to be all about creative journeys! 

Originally I purchased this fabric to make a peasant style maxi skirt. You know the kind with the gathered tiers.  Since the fabric was only 45" wide I bought six yards of it. It was inexpensive because I bought it during Chic Fabrics "moving locations" sale.

It was purchased prior to making the Deer & Doe dresses. I love all three versions that I've made and each was worn several times during the summer and early fall. 

When I was moving some fabric I touched this velvet and knew it needed to become a long sleeved maximized version...

Supply List ~
5 yards of polyester tie dyed velvet from Chic Fabrics
A scrap of coca brown ponte for facings
Blk & printed piping from Joyce Trimmings
5/8" 4-hole buttons from the button collection
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

Construction ~
1. I chose to leave the collar off this version and make it true to the pattern. I added piping to the collar edge and the front edge of the bodice.

2. Ponte facings were used to add interfacing to the collar stand and front facings. That made it easier to apply the fusible interfacing and the piping.

3. I also lengthened the sleeves so they were full length. Then I added cuffs.  The cuff pattern was taken from my TNT shirt pattern.

4. Care had to be taken because the velvet handles differently than other fabrics.

5. I used my needleboard and silk organza pressing cloth to press seams open & flat.

6. Typically, I use tailor tacks to mark darts and markings on garments from velvet.  Though with this one I did mark with tracing paper and a tracing wheel because the fabric is crinkled and absorbed the tracing markings.

7. Used my straight stitch food and straight stitch throat plate on my sewing machine when I sewed the dress, it made sewing the seams a tad easier.

8. Also added seam tape to the shoulder seams to stabilize them since the fabric had a little give.

9. I wavered back and forth over adding piping to the sleeve cuffs. Since I had a lot of piping left (because I typically buy 5 yards at a time) I decided to have fully piped cuffs. Adding the piping to the cuff is explained in this post.

10. I thought for this one that I would make a longer cuff but it didn't work out - see below...

11. Made a shorter cuff and I handstitched the cuff to the sleeve. It's a little tight and I didn't want to squeeze it under my sewing machine needle. I think it will be okay since this dress won't be worn much. However, I'm so happy I chose to make the cuff tighter and smaller. It works perfectly with the sleeve and dress proportions.

12. I added piping to the waistline seam to take the piping all the way through the garment.

13. The last thing is that I basted the bodice and skirt together before I sewed the waistline seam. That way I could make any needed adjustments without ripping out seams in the velvet and possibly marring it.

I know there's a lot of information here but in case anyone is thinking about making a version of the dress, I hope this will help you.

A few pictures ~

Conclusion ~
If you've never sewn with velvet before there are a few things you should know to make the sewing journey easier.  May I recommend Sandra Betzina's book, "More Fabric Savvy" for instructions and a guide on how to handle sewing with this fabric. 

Cause I broke all of the rules/suggestions.  
     - I used fusible interfacing on the cuffs.  
     - I marked the fabric with a tracing wheel and tracing paper. 
     - I did not use a walking foot.  

However, I did baste a lot and I did cut the dress out using a "with nap" layout.

Also, this was sew slowing...some ripping out and replacing and A LOT of piping with hand basting. As with all projects I get neck deep in and start to wonder if I should have waded in with all those special touches on a difficult fabric. Then when it's done I'm almost always glad I went for it.

This dress turned out so much more luxurious than I imagined it. It's comfortable while having a "Tudors" vibe! BTW, I originally dreamed up this dress with a leather collar, collar stand and cuffs and no piping. The only reason I didn't go that way is because the two pieces of pleather in the collection, didn't match the fabric.  

I have no idea where I'm going to wear this beauty. However, I'm glad I made it! Also, there will definitely be more of these added to my spring/summer wardrobe. I finally understand why some sewists made 3-4 of these right away. I will be joining their ranks next spring.

...as always more later! 

Cashmerette Pembroke Tunic in a Wool Knit

I've been looking for a turtleneck pattern that I wouldn't have to do a lot of work on.  The Pembroke pattern while not a true turtleneck, is close enough for me to use to make a couple of layering pieces this fall/winter.

This is a simple sew. I used the shoulder seams for size 22, bust and waist size 24 and hip size 26. The bust cup is a C/D.

The fabric is from Gaylen's fabric collection. She was going to add it to her pile of giveaway fabric for the Baltimore Destash. I rescued it instead! It's a panel border print wool knit that I used 2.5 panels for the tunic.

I added seam tape to the shoulder seams and used a double needle to sew the sleeve and bottom hems. That's the only construction information, so a few pictures.

This was my trial make. I'm going to make a couple of adjustments to the pattern (shoulder, widthwise and length) then make a few more. This top will make a great layering piece for winter and its just what I need to add to my wardrobe.

Here it is with one of my first Simplicity 8059 cardigans and how I will wear it.

This version is a great jump off for future makes. I'm sure a few more will show up here in the upcoming months!


...as always more later!

McCalls 7817 - A Jacquard Jacket

I'm always looking for toppers that will work with my casual lifestyle.  Now while I'm drawn to very tailored jackets, realistically they don't fit into my work life. So when I saw this McCalls pattern in the fall offerings, I thought it would fit well in my wardrobe...

Even though this pattern has several sleeve variations, I'm sticking with the kimono type sleeves because I like simplier silhouettes. Refer to my sentence above about tailored jackets. I really am a classic silhouette loving sewist who likes bright colors and prints. This pattern gives me a great layering piece, which I need for the winter. It's simple, classic and stylish.

Supply List ~
Blue/Black Jacquard from Elliott Berman Fabrics
12 yds black bias binding from Pacific Trimmings
1 small snap

Pattern Alterations ~
- The shoulder seams were shortened by an inch 
- Did a pivot and slide to add 3" at the hemline and 2" at the hip area
- Added inseam pockets from McCalls 7481 

Construction Info ~
This is a simple sew and it goes together quickly. There are four pattern pieces - back, front, sleeve and sash. The time consuming element is the bias binding...and that's what drew me to the pattern.

I did add some time to the construction by adding pockets after I sewn the side seams. So everything had to be ripped open and sewn again. Because I used big and deep pockets, I had to hand stitch them to the jacket front so they wouldn't flop around inside the jacket.

The bias binding was applied using the Hong Kong method. The pattern tells you to fold it in half and sew it down. I wanted a cleaner look. Applying it using the Hong Kong application means that the bias is longer on the inside. Stitching in the ditch causes it to have a more finished look on the jacket front. 

I also added some ribbon ties from the bias binding to the side of and the front of the jacket to tie it together. I wanted to insure that the belt wasn't the only thing holding the jacket together.

A snap was sewn to the v-neck junction at the front of the jacket. This helps the v-neckline to lay flat. To me all of these additions enhance the wearability of the jacket.

After I added the snaps I noticed that the left side hangs a little lower than the right. I was going to fix it but I like the quirkiness of it, so left it. When you're looking at the pictures below realize that the fronts not meeting is deliberate.

A Few Pictures ~

The fabric is what makes this jacket work. I suggest if you make one for yourself that you use a bold fabric (like the pattern envelope) or a denim so that the jacket is distinctive. Your bias binding can be coordinating (like mine) or contrasting to add even more pop! Also, buy more bias binding than the pattern recommends. I bought 13 yards and used 12.

This is where I tell you that Elliott Berman supplied the fabric as part of my Brand Ambassadorship with them. If you're interested in purchasing fabric similar to the one I used, check out their new french jacquards here. One more thing about the fabric, it's warm. I'm looking forward to pairing this with other turtlenecks during the cold months of January through March.

I would make this again...probably in denim. Though I will have to adjust the pattern fronts.  To achieve the look on the pattern envelope, I need a little more fabric across the front. Even though I'm fine with the way this one hangs. But if I do make it again, I will definitely make the adjustments.

Even with that I highly recommend purchasing this pattern. It's a simple sew especially if you don't add all the elements I did. The finished jacket has a lot of bang for the buck and I'm sure it will get a lot of wear this winter.

...as always more later!