I'm a Fabric Snob

Seriously a snob and if you don't know that you don't know me! LOL! I love fabric and all of it's different fabrications. Now I won't sew it all but I do love it! I also don't like basic fabric or buying fabric that a lot of other sewists use cause who knows when you will see yourself coming or going.

I know I have the luxury of snobbiness because I work in NYC and can visit the fabric shops there anytime. While the garment center has changed, it's still a treasure trove of amazing fabrics that can be touched, purchased and even shipped home from some merchants. I know I'm not limited to "The Craft Store" commonly known as JoAnns.

However, that's one of the things I want to discuss...The Craft Store. It's obviously been upping it's fabric game. Lately I've been seeing fabrics that sewists I admire are using purchased from The Craft Store. Color me impressed! Not impressed enough to give them my fabric dollars but impressed just the same.  

Especially since I understand that not all sewists want to shop for fabric online. Though as an aside, I don't get that since online fabric merchants do a fabulous job of photographing and describing fabrics. They also offer things that The Craft Store doesn't carry. But, if you need fabric, The Craft Store is offering better choices now so bravo to them.

Now back to my snobbery...I'm an old school fabric aficionado. I love natural fabrics. I love types that aren't so commonly sold any more - wool crepes, linen and linen blends like linen & silk, silks of various weights, beautiful challis, jersey knits and rayon pontes. I like a fabric with a beautiful hand that pretreats well and resembles the original fabric after the pretreatment process. 

I love a good print.  A print woven in is always superior to a printed one. However, I will buy a printed fabric if the colors are vibrant and the borders clear. I love, love, love a good panel or border print because the flights of fancy you can take while using them is unlimited.

I'm such a fabric snob that I have a list of online fabric stores that I will always shop. I use to experiment more and try out online fabric stores mentioned by sewists I admire.  Now though I stick to what I know because my list of retailers haven't let me down.

Now my love of fabric is well documented.  But what about you?  Do you love fabric as much as you do patterns? Are you a keeper of many different types of fabric or do you buy as needed? Shop online? At The Craft Store or another local fabric store near you?

Talk back to me because this is "The Question of the Day"

...as always more later!

A Follow Up to "My Fabric Collection is my Retirement Fund" Post

I wrote this post, My Fabric Collection is part of my Retirement Fund, back in March 2016. I was about 10 years out from retirement then. I'm now three years away from it. My retirement date is on record at my company that's how close it is.

After rereading the post and the comments which are so interesting, I wanted to do an update to this post for a couple of reasons:

1. Covid

Covid changed everything in 2020.  The way we work.  The way we shop. How we live.  When the world shut down in the spring of 2020 due to the pandemic, it caused us all to reassess so much of our lives.  That reassessment affects us all to this day.  It also made me very grateful for the fabrics, notions and patterns I had stashed. I sewed without challenges when it seemed like the world was coming to an end.

2. Moving & Changing Lifestyle

I've lived in this apartment for three years now. I packed, moved, unpacked all of that fabric in the midst of an illness.  An illness that caused me to re-evaluate a lot of what was important to me.

Also, I no longer work in an office four days a week. During the spring until the end of the year, I go in two days a week which changes what I need to wear and sew. Hybrid work arrangements are more the norm since Covid.

My lifestyle is slower now. I'm happy spending time with a good book or a good TV show cause Covid even changed that! There are so many streaming options and movies released to TV.  TVs are larger, less expensive (relative to the inflation we're presently experiencing) with more options to give you that movie theatre experience at home.

3. Balance

My life is more balanced now.  Back in 2016, I worked, sewed, and hung out with friends/family a little. It was like a 50/40/10 split. I read a little but since commuting took up so much of my time, I used my commuting time to do several things.

Now since my commuting time is greatly reduced and even though I have more responsibilities at work, my life seems more balanced. I'm working on spending time equally between sewing, reading, time with my grandchildren and making sure I'm available for my friends. This seems a more realistic picture of what my imminent retirement will look like.

Now let's discuss the main topic of that post - my fabric collection. If you've been reading along, you know I want to reduce my collection by about 20%. That reduction that was discussed some in the comments due to retirement is in full affect in my life. I have several reasons for wanting to lose a portion of it:

• I want some of my living space back in the Resource Center. I want to reuse some of the wall space currently holding fabric.
• There are pieces I know I won't use and I want them to go to another sewist who will enjoy them.
• I've been culling my collection all along but the thought of having to move this much fabric again gives me the heebie jeebies.  And who knows when or if I will need to do so.  Making plans ahead of time just seems wise.

While I'm not concerned about my fabric collection in the event of my death, my daughter has a list of sewists who live nearby who can have dibs to my collection.  She has first rights to everything and the sewists on the list know who they are. This allows for a smoother transition of my things for my daughters. Yes, I thought up this plan when I got sick in 2020.

Finally, while I didn't purchase a lot of fabric in 2020, I did start buying in large amounts again in 2021 and 2022. I've slowed down buying fabric in December 2022 and this year so far I've only purchased a few pieces. My purchases are more well thought and creative driven now. I've been using my fabric money for books.  

However, I also want to use some of those beautiful fabrics I've accumulated. I want to make amazing garments to move around the world in.  Pieces that won't be seen on anyone else. I want to take those sewing journeys while I can still enjoy them.  I want to enjoy the sewing while I can.

That's the update to my post. How about you?  How have your attitudes changed towards sewing in the last seven years? Did Covid affect you? Did the supply chain shortages from Covid cause you to keep more sewing related items on hand? Do you still work 5 days a week at your job's location? Or do you work from home now? Have you retired or is retirement imminent?

I want to hear your thoughts, so talk back to me!

...as always more later!

Can We Talk?

I was sharing a photo with a friend about a garment in progress and she responded, "Oh my goodness, I thought you traced patterns?" My response was do you know me?  I'm definitely "Team Cut that Sh*t Out!"  We've been friends for over a decade. She sees everything I'm making before it's shared on social media.  We talk about fabric and what to buy and what not to buy and I couldn't believe she didn't know me! Or rather how lazy I am! *LOL*  

It got me to thinking. How many other sewists who have followed me for years have assumptions about me?  Well sewing assumptions.  Anything else I'm not that concerned about! *LOL*  Maybe it's time to debunk a few myths.

So the floor is OPEN.  Ask me anything sewing related that you think I may or may not do.  Please note this is sewing related. I DO NOT talk about where I work, what I do, my friendships or anything really personal.  This is the internet and it holds things FOREVER!  And believe it or not, some companies do check the internet for background checks for jobs, etc.  No, I'm not looking for a job but you never know...

So do you assume I make a muslin?  Do you assume I'm anal about pattern placement?  Or thread choices?  Or do you have a question about my processes? State your answers or questions and I will answer all!

This is not quite a Question of the Day...more like as Joan Rivers, bless her soul, use to say, "Can We Talk?"

...as always more later!

In Response to your Questions...

There have been a few questions about procedures and things that I've previously blogged about...so I'm going to put all the links in this post.  I will also link this to my "Popular Posts" tab for future reference.

First up ~ I've written a pretty involved post on how to prep wool crepe in this post, "Prepping Wool Crepe."  However, Pam Erny, who authors the blog, Off The Cuff, wrote a blog post on pre-treating wool crepe in the dryer called, "Pre-Treat Wool Fast and Easy at Home."  This is the method I use now for pre-treating my wools.

Here are a couple of pants blog posts that I've written about how I make and/or remake pants

Lauren - this wide view shot is for you!

Remaking A Pair of Pants
This post shows how I take the lining out of a pair of pants and how I underlined them, as well as adding in the waistband elastic.

Sunday Afternoon Ramblings
from December 2010 has an entire how-to on how I apply the waistband elastic. However, this is important to know...this elastic is no longer manufactured. At the time a source was located at Create for Less, they are no longer carrying the elastic after they sold out of their stock. I've tried to locate it by contacting Wrights but no luck. So soon, well as soon as my stock is depleted, I will be trying out new alternatives.

+ + + + +

LauraSJ asked on the "Pinstripe Magic ~ Dress & Skirt" post:
"Do you have any special tips for laying out the pattern pieces and cutting to get the most from your fabric? Do you use a single layer cutout? I've heard this is more economical, but I don't really understand why. Thanks!" 

Laura ~ I answered part of your question in the comments but realized that I needed to give this question a little more space.  First it's important to realize that the reason I was able to lay these pieces side by side is because the fabrics were 62" and 64" wide. It was definitely one of the reasons that I purchased this piece.

Next ~ I always use a with nap layout when placing pattern pieces on fabric. Simply stated, "with nap" means that all of the tops of the pattern pieces face one direction. The reason for this is if you're using a fabric with a specific pattern or color shading, it allows all of the cut pieces to look the same or the pattern to work well across all of the pieces.

The Vogue/Butterick Step by Step Guide to Sewing Techniques defines it this way...

"Layout used for cutting fabrics that have brushed surfaces (fleece), pile (velvet), woven or printed one-way designs, and texture (satin, brocade).  All tops of pattern pieces and all grainline arrows should point in one direction. For richer color on velvets and velveteen, place pieces so nap runs up. Otherwise, place pattern pieces so nap runs down."

The Editors of Vogue and Butterick Patterns

+ + + + +

There were several comments about the "seated hip measurements" and even some comments about my use of TNT patterns. I want to say here that I have very few original sewing ideas. I have though spent many years learning and studying my craft. I first heard about fat spreading from Colleen Jones, an amazing sewing teacher that really elevated my sewing to another level. However, Barbara Deckert also talks about it in her book, Sewing for Plus Sizes, Creating Clothes that Fit and Flatter.

Also, I was communicating with another sewist and she asked a question about how I came up with the idea of TNT patterns. Again, I learned this from Shirley Adams. She hosted a sewing show on PBS called The Sewing Connection that I watched religiously every Saturday afternoon.  There are a few episodes on YouTube now.

A shout out also to Nancy Zieman who had and still has a show on PBS called, Sewing with Nancy and Sandra Betzina who had a show on HGTV in its early days called, Sew Perfect. Although she has an amazing site complete with videos called, Power Sewing.

I'm referencing these because so many sewists search the internet for sewing knowledge these days.  However, I learned through books and sewing shows on TV...sort of like Craftsy now.  Anyway, I encourage everyone to not only look at the newer sewing players on the scene but to look at some of the sewing teachers that have been in the game for awhile.  There is so much knowledge there to be accessed.

...stepping off soap box now...

+ + + + +

Jolsen asked, "How do you launder your wools, do you dry clean them?"

Yes, I do dry clean my wools.  But as someone else noted, I have a large wardrobe. Unless something is really a favorite a garment usually only gets one or two wears a season. So it takes a minute for something to need to be dry cleaned. I'm a huge proponent of hanging items to air out before putting them back into the closet. I do this in my laundry room. I believe this also helps with not having to dry clean a garment so often.

+ + + + +

Lastly I'd like to give a wearability update on a couple of pieces I've recently worn. First, the faded plaid pants are pillers - yeap, where the legs rub together the fabric is/was pilling.  I did remove the pilling when I got home but it will make me choose these pants last when needing a pair to wear. There was no way to tell during the purchase, construction or finishing of these pants that they would be pillers because the fabric had smooth fibers. But they pill so some of the shine is off them.

The four gore flare skirt was easy to wear...however...that polyester lining can be a little clingy. Okay who am I fooling ALOT clingy.  So the antic static spray got a workout that day but otherwise the skirt was great and the outfit garnered a few compliments.

Thanks to everyone who've left a comment on the garments that I've highlighted this week. A very special thanks to everyone who commented on the photographs. I still see some areas where I can improve but I have learned that having some fun is the way to go with the picture taking.

...as always more later!

Reflections on a Saturday Afternoon

These are just a few things roaming through my brain...

**It's December 1st.  There are only 30 more days until 2013 and my sewing vacay!  Yes!!!  Last year since I planned the cruise and took off two weeks in late August so I had to forego my winter sewing vacay.  But this year it's back on!  So of course, I'm already planning what to sew during my 9 days off from work!

**The Vogue 8824 dress is very similar to a dress that I made in 2011.  I was knocking off a DVF dress and used my TNT dress pattern to recreate it.  Here is my version:

Here is the V8824 version:

...and these are the differences between my amateurish pattern drafting skills and what the professionals did to make this such a great pattern...

• The darts at the neckline on the Vogue pattern are ingenious.  That's what my version is missing and what helps make the Vogue dress lay flat at the neckline and not gape open. 
• Honestly, my dress hangs a little funny at the front.  Probably because I added a seam down the front to get the v-neckline when the V8824 uses a place on fold application.
• I also think I made a better choice material-wise with the V8824 dress.
• My version is unlined.  The V8824 dress has a lining which I think helps with making the dress hang better.
• Finally my version has a zipper...the next V8824 dress will have a center back zipper.

**During the Black Friday after Thanksgiving Day sales, I bought the Colette Anise jacket pattern along with the additional download which I printed out and made into a flip book.  Seeing it this way has only made me want to move it up "the must sew" list.  I just have to figure out what fabric to use for it.

**I also bought a lot of patterns (10) during the last Club BMV sale.  In my defense, I was waiting for a good sale and had a wish list full, so ten new patterns showed up on Thursday.  You know how pattern purchasing is, you may or may not see them made up anytime soon so lets just leave it at that okay?!  *smile*  

However, I did purchase three little girl patterns for my one and only granddaughter.  I've decided that I want to make her some things for Christmas, so that's what I'll be working on for the next couple of weekends.  Here's what I got to start working on a wardrobe for her...

McCalls 5791

McCalls 6193

McCalls 6457

**This weekend, I'm working on two relatively easy projects.  A skirt using one of the Mood border prints and the lined pants for the CIW Collection that I didn't work on during the Thanksgiving break.  Or I could change my mind and work on something else.  I think I'm going where inspiration strikes!

**Also a few more pieces of fabric arrived. *sigh* What can I say?  I'm an addict...an admitted addict but an addict nonetheless! 

So I saw this dress in Dress Barn (local women's chain that carries regular and plus size goods) when I was there last Saturday morning (noticed that was after the Black Friday sales).  Now Dress Barn carries a really good selection of plus size garments, (although the fabrics they use definitely reflects their price points) however, this dress was not made into a plus size version.  

While browsing sewing blogs, MimiG made a sweater using Butterick 5679.  I'd never really looked at that pattern before but after seeing the dress at Dress Barn, I knew the pattern would work for how I wanted to interpret the dress especially the raglan sleeves.  So with my new fabric I'm going to try out this pattern.  Another garment that's not a part of the plan, *sigh* I know!  But I do intend on making several pieces from the CIW collection during my winter sewcation.

Robin author of the blog, A Little Sewing asked this question:
You have so many beautiful outfits - I bet you can go a month without wearing the same thing twice. I wear the same things over and over! What is your secret? 

I have a lot of clothes so you're right, I rarely repeat an outfit in a month or two unless I really want to wear something twice. How have I accomplished that? Well about 10 years ago I made a conscious decision to make most of my own clothing. At the beginning, I wore things more than once because it takes time to sew most of your wardrobe. Sewing a lot of TNT (tried and true) patterns has also increased the amount of clothing I own. Once you know something fits and have the time to spend on sewing instead of fitting garments, you can accumulate more faster.  

My second conscious decision was to make things I liked making and to purchase all others. That's probably why you haven't seen a sewn coat on my blog. I can buy that and it takes considerably more time to make a coat. Also I'm kinda impatient and need a lot of instant gratification. This is an interesting principle since I do make pants. So I guess it's what the sewist is comfortable sewing.

Anyway, the simple answer is that I sew a lot and most of it is from TNT patterns. If you're sewing and not fitting, you're accumulating quite a few new pieces.

I know this is one long post but there is one more thing, I would like to thank you all for the very kind and wonderful comments you've left on my last three garment posts.  I'm so appreciative of the fact that you stop by, read my ramblings and then take the time to leave a word of encouragement.  Even if you don't stop to say anything, just look at the pictures and move on...my appreciation extends to you too.  Every visit is important to me because you took the time to come by and check out what that obsessed sewing woman is doing now!  I mean I would still document what I do if no one came around but IT IS so much more fun sharing it all with you!  Thanks again!

...as always more later!

I had a thought or two...

These are just some random thoughts that I've had over the course of the last two weeks...

• I think I'm going to purchase the Anise Jacket pattern from Colette.  This pattern will work with my business corporate office.
• I really want to make a plaid version of my Whitney Dress...have the fabric and everything...need to get to that before spring!
• Just added another four pieces to the CIW collection.  I'm definitely going to be sewing on this collection into spring!  It's oddly comforting tho' to know that I'll have so many pieces that will play well together.
• Have started to collect the materials for my Ralph Rucci dress - can't wait to start on it!
• My creativity/sewing mojo is surging!  I'm in the middle of a tornado of new ideas.  You know standing in the eye of the storm and all of these truly amazing ideas are twirling around me.  All I need to do is reach out and touch one and make it.  Now I need more time to sew.  Does this happen to anyone else?
• I need to do another purge of my closet so I'll have enough space for all of these new projects!
• Maybe not buying so much fabric is a good thing - I've been quietly cutting back for a few months now!  What you thought the Mood association would stop my fabric buying habits?!  Ha, she laughs at you!  Fabric is fabric baby! *LOL*  But there have been fewer and fewer boxes showing up AND it's been noticed and commented upon!
• I loved meeting Oonaballoona!  That girl is fantastic...even better in real life than on her blog!  I got proof and you would know this if you followed me on Instagram!

...and there were a few questions...

Jean asked...
I was just wondering why you didn't just sew the zipper in as a standard zipper with a hmmm.... now I've forgotten what they are called... with a flap over it? I realize that exposed zippers are the style now... but I was just curious.
It definitely was a style/trend thing for the application of the zipper.  I'm seeing it everywhere in NYC and realized that I hadn't made a dress using one even though it's been my intention.  So new fabric + new zipper = exposed zipper.

Valerie asked...
How do you feel about metal zippers touching your skin?
I honestly don't know.  Will have to let you know after I wear the dress, since this is the first dress with the exposed metal zipper.

tcsewhat asked...
Have you ever made a scarf from your fabric stash?
I made some scarves last Christmas but lately I've just been too hot to wear a scarf around my neckline.  I prefer necklaces.

See I'm trying harder to answer questions! *LOL*

Finally and most importantly, tomorrow is the last day to enter the giveaway for the two $50 Mood gift certificates.  If you haven't left a comment yet, what are you waiting for?  C'mon peoples, free Mood fabric!  *LOL*  Contest closes tomorrow at Midnight EST!  Oh and only one entry will be counted, I will start deleting duplicates when I lock the comments!

Please leave comments for the giveaway on the post, One Year Later, any comments left here will not be counted in the giveaway! 

...as always more later! 

So you want to know more...

Questions, questions and more questions...I know you must leave them and wonder if I ever read them?  Well I do...it just takes me a minute to get them answered.  So this post will answer quite a few of them.  However, if you had a question regarding my latest dress, I plan on answering them when I do a final review.  Speaking of that dress, I ended up not wearing it in Chicago.  It was a little, okay who am I fooling, a lotta damp and chilly so I wore The Whitney Dress instead.  I hate feeling cold!


Okay, so on to the questions...
Lisa Pellegrini asked, "Have you ever been tempted to use the wrong side of a fabric as the right side?"
Of course I have and when I do I call it a designer decision and feel no need to tell anyone that I used what everyone else considered the "wrong" side of the fabric! *LOL*


Kuby asked, "Which machine company did she advertise for?"
I have no idea...I want to say Viking but I will have to dig my old pattern magazines out from the 80's and see if I can find out!


Julianne asked, "Do you preshrink your piping?"
Oh man, I feel like saying busted!  I know that I should preshrink it but honestly I never have and never had a shrinking accident which just reinforces my bad behaviour.  But all the sewing books say that you should...let that be your guide!


Sheila stated, "Regarding applying piping, have you tried an industrial piping foot on your machine?"
I do use my piping foot often when applying piping as noted in the other piping post I linked to.  It is not industrial but it is the piping foot that Janome recommends for my sewing machine.


BeeBee asked, "Do/would you ever remove the "stuffing" from the part of the piping thatwill go into the seam allowance?"
Yes, I've use flat piping as an embellishment.  But when I used that technique, it was with a flat bias binding that was folded in half, pressed and stitched into the seam.


JustGail asked, "Do you have a method to keep Fray Check from getting hard and scratchy?"
I've heard this complaint before but have never experienced it.  Have you tried Fray Block instead?  It's suppose to have a softer end result than Fray Check.


LinB discussed partial linings...
I've used a partial lining in this pants suit and can't stand the partial lining. It creeps, it creases and the hemline scratches my legs.  So I need to figure something else out.

Blogged about here

Josh asked, "Are you still participating in the craftsy course?"
Honestly, I've watched one class and that's it.  But the reason I signed up for the craftsy course is that I have unlimited access to it for a year.  So during one of my 3-day weekends, I will concentrate on it again.  I just need some serious downtime to do so!


Andsewitgoes asked, "You sandwich the piping on the neckline between the dress and the facing, correct?"
Actually I've omitted the facings on this dress pattern years ago.  So the piping is sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining fabric.


Laceflower asked, "How do you decide the quantity of fabric to buy?  How do you use it in say, the first garment and expect there to be enough for the last garment?"
Ah this is a really good question!  I figure out the pieces I want to make and how much yardage they take and then purchase accordingly.  I'm going to get five full garments out of the ten yards of ivory poly crepe and I have plans to use some of the larger scraps in other garments to make sure that I use almost every piece of fabric.


...and finally, MelissaL88 asked, "Are you not worried about the "warmth" factor of polyester crepe?"
Melissa, the crepe is lightweight and yes it's polyester.  But I'm thinking of the dress, pants and skirt as spring & fall pieces...that's why I'm getting them constructed so quickly so that I can wear them now before the temperatures start to rise.  The two jackets will work throughout the summer since I commute in over-the-top air conditioning (like its on right now on the bus!) and in an office that can feel like a refrigerator at times.  I really just wanted some drapey, non-wrinkling ivory pieces to use as a base for a spring/summer wardrobe and this piece fit the bill.


I hope this answers the questions that were left.  If I missed one that you asked, leave it in the comments and I will update this post with it.


...as always, more later!

A little follow-up...

Boy did the Question of the Day generate some interesting answers...and I will get to them...but first I want to address a blogger issue.  I am aware of the fact that Blogger is doing something with their Open ID process and that it's affected the ability of some people to log in and leave comments.  I've even received some requests to go back to the open commenting which allows anonymous commenters to leave comments.


At the time I changed my blog settings (because once upon a time you could leave an anonymous comment here) it was because the harassment had become more than I could stand.  As I've stated time and again, I blog because it is a release from my very stressful day job.  This is part of my creative outlet so I've drawn a line in the sand here on how much b*llsh*t I'm willing to deal with...and yes, I'm aware that this is a very strong statement. 


But after the crap I had to deal with last year, I will not go there again.  As nice, informative and encouraging as the internet sewing community can be, there are trolls out there that get great pleasure in causing drama.  I'm a drama free kinda woman. I won't put up with it at work or in my personal life so I'm sure as h*ll not standing for it here.  So in the most adamant way that I can say it, I'm not turning on anonymous comments ever again.


I'm truly sorry that Blogger is making it hard to leave a comment but since I have no control over that, all I can do is once again say that I wish you could leave a comment but the anonymous setting will never be turned back on...NEXT!


First ~ thanks to everyone who left a comment.  They were all appreciated especially the ones espousing support for my blog.  Cause truth be told who doesn't like a compliment or two! *smile* I truly am humbled by the fact that quite a few of you stated that I've inspired you to continue sewing or to try different techniques...that just makes my heart sing because more than anything I want to encourage everyone to continue to grow in our artform!  


Next - if you author a product only blog, please realize that I am not belittling your choice.  The thing about a blog is that it's your own space and you get to occupy it anyway you want.  So please know that I respect your choice, it's just not my choice.


I think the most concise answer to the question goes to Faye, who simply wrote "Yea" ~ Faye you made me smile!


LauraSJ wrote:
"I wonder if some bloggers are getting tired of all the work involved with sharing the process because it must take an amazing amount of time to share the "how".
Thanks for sharing that viewpoint...because that hadn't occurred to me.


Linda wrote:
"Also I find myself shuttering when I see unpressed seams on sewn garments...but it sets my eye to twitchin' Oh yes and machine sewn hems on skirts with materials that should be hand sewn...I want to scream into a pillow for that one.  No negative comments ever though...
I appreciate your honesty and love your no negative comments stance...


Janice wrote about participating in Sew Weekly challenges:
I didn't know that if you participated in Sew Weekly challenges that you can't write about the construction process when you post your garment.  That's an  interesting thing to know.  Thanks for sharing it!


There was a question or two...


M&M asked how I had energy to sew after work...
I primarily sew on the weekends...when I'm well-rested and have left work in the dust! *LOL*


RomonaSewingJourney asked,"can you tell me your pattern you use for your twin sets?"
That would be out-of-print Burda 8869.  Here's a link to my flickr album so you can see all of the versions I've made of it.


Jeannettec wrote ~ "I think its time for you to do a sew along."
Ummmm yeah okay!  *LOL*  I've thought about it but I just don't know if I have the time to devote to one...


Finally since no post should be this long without a picture (especially since this did push a few buttons in the comments!) I present to you a hanging shot of the front of the Whitney Dress with the seaming topstitched:

It's looking like I'm going to be working on this during the 3-day weekend and   only one of the two dresses I originally planned on making will "hopefully" be finished.


...as always, more later!

Puttering around on a hot sunday afternoon...

I don't have much initative to sew...must be the weather!  Or could it be that I've already made six garments this month so I have no pressing need for more...whatever...I'm puttering!

So how about I answer a couple of questions...

bpatricia74 asked:
"What pattern did your daughter use? If no pattern what instructions can you share?"
At my house we use the wrap the fabric around you and add 2" in the hip area to make sure it fits method.  However, this is a do as I say not a do as I do moment and let me direct you to some wonderful instructions on how to make a square dress/skirt pattern - Ann of Gorgeous Things has some awesome instructions on how to make this skirt/dress look.  You can find them here.

quava62 asked:
"Please Carolyn could you name the pattern for your TNT pants !!
I hate to tell you this but I have no idea what the pattern number is.  That is one of the patterns I started working with over 10 years ago and as I traced it from pattern paper to pattern paper, the number went by the wayside.  I also no longer have the pattern envelope since the pieces went into their own folder marked pants pattern.  In any case, this pattern would be out-of-print now since most of my TNT ones are. 

JudyP asked:
"Would you mind posting your tips on lining knits?"
Let me see...my tips on lining knits...well I don't do anything differently from when I line a woven garment.  The only difference is that I use nylon tricot lining that I purchased from fabric.com...and I haven't lined one knit dress that I've made this summer.  Probably because the V1250 dresses are just too complicated for me to figure out how to line and the other knit dresses either had enough fabric (as in loose wearing) or were thick enough that I decided just to wear a half slip with them.  However, I did add the tricot lining to the black 'n white knit skirt I just made and for that I just cut the lining the length of the fabric and basted around all 4 edges...nothing special. 

Fourkid asked:
"Where do you find all your lovely cardigans?"
You mean besides the ones I make ~ everywhere!  I'm constantly on the lookout for a great cardigan and I collect them in all colors.  I've purchased them online from Jessica London and Talbots Women, at Lord & Taylor and Macy's (both have excellent women's plus size shops in the NYC), The Avenue...I even have one or two from Wal-Mart.  Anywhere!

 
Okay next...

I was reading the Sunday New York Times this morning (yes, I must be one of the last people that still have it delivered on Sunday mornings...but I LUV reading that big ole paper on Sundays and looking at the ads!) and I saw this picture:

Sunday NYTimes Style Section - Blue Chip - 7.24.11

 It made me realize that my Rachel Dress:

is right on trend!  And for whomever asked the reason it's called "The Rachel Dress" its because I nicknamed the skirt from Vogue 1247 "The Rachel Skirt" after its designer Rachel Comey.  Since the main feature of the dress is the pockets from her pattern and I used those pattern pieces to achieve the look, it became The Rachel Dress.

Finally, I am prepping some fabric to be sewn.  I haven't worn the floral version of the Simplicity 2958 jacket because I don't really like it with the vanilla silk twill dress.  To me the two pieces together are too plain and washed out looking.  So I broke down (don't laugh!) and bought three yards of the pea green couture linen (so called by Fabric Mart) before the last sale with the 20% off discount ended.

Here it is on my ironing board going through the pressing process...

I'm making another version of my TNT dress from it and I may work on constructing it today or I may not...

...as always, more later!

It's time to answer some questions...

Okay, like I stated in my last post, there have been a few questions left that I really should answer.  And I would like to apologize upfront because I'm really lousy at this...answering questions I mean.  I always think I'll get back to them but time gets away from me...*sigh*

But first can I reply to a response left on the blog post, Experience vs. Enthusiasm:

Tilly wrote:
"Thanks for your thoughtful musings about my post. It's very interesting to read all the comments. Unfortunately a lack of decades of experience is something I don't have a choice about, as I only discovered the joy of sewing when I hit 30.

I don't know if I'm being overly sensitive, but some of these comments make me feel like I'm being criticised for only starting sewing in the past couple of years (there is a long - some say sad - story behind why this is, which I'm not going to go into online).

The reason I started my blog was to document my journey as a beginner. I soon realised that the fact that I was starting from scratch was encouraging other people who'd never sewn before to give it a go. And this is what I now see the point of my blog being - to inspire people to try sewing and to have fun with it.

While I may lack decades of experience, I have unbridled enthusiasm for the pleasures of making things with your own hands, precisely because it's new to me. As a wise person once said (can't remember who!), the best teacher of x is sometimes the person who has just learnt x. Not only because of their enthusiasm, but also because they know how to explain something to someone who doesn't know it, because it wasn't long ago that the teacher didn't know it either."

...this is not the entire comment but it's most of it...because Tilly brings up some good points.  However, the reason I've highlighted it is because I want Tilly and all new sewists/stitchers to know that in no way was I belittling your experience or where you are in your sewing journey.  I was attempting to encourage you to realize that you need to factor experience into your journey...and experience doesn't take decades to learn.  Some of it is learnt in weeks, months or even days...but realize that it really is experience that takes you to the next level.

Finally, I love all the new sewists/stitchers blogs.  I love the enthusiasm you have for our craft and I love the fact that it is being carried forward into the future.

Now onto the questions...

On Butterick 5620, Judidarling wrote;
"This fabric carries the day. I've never been comfortable using border prints because of my protruding stomach and large bust; I don't have a dress form, and my hems are usually longer in the front. Any hints?"

Judi - lately this has become my challenge too and I cheat.  I'm sure the fit experts have the proper technique for adding fabric somewhere in the waistline of the dress or skirt and then doing a proper hem.  Me, I add an extra inch to the back of the dress/skirt and then hem it unevenly...shorter in the front...longer in the back so that it hangs right on me.  Now if someone has the CORRECT way to make this alteration, please feel free to leave it in it the comments because I'm fully aware that I'm jerryrigging this! *LOL*

Regarding using border prints - please dive right in!  I love the uniqueness and the ability that border prints give you to think outside the box.  I've sewn quite a few borderprints lately.  I'm experiencing borderprintedness but I did buy a boatload of these last year and am just starting to use them.  Plus this is not something you see alot of in RTW plus size clothing so that makes them extra special to me.

Ann of Gorgeous Things wrote:
" I haven't tried the CC patterns, but I've found recently that the shoulder/upper chest area in most of the Vogue/McCall/Butterick patterns runs really, really big. I've had to go down two sizes (and there aint no way I'm a size 10) in that area and work from there. I wonder if they changed their sloper?"

Hey, you know I never thought of that...and thanks for pointing it out.  I will be on the lookout when I get around to using a new pattern again...no time soon...muttering under my breathe!  *LOL*

In Another Vogue 1250, Elle asks:
"Does the stretch run parallel or perpendicular to the print? I ask because I have been eying several border print knits and am concerned about the stretch not going across the grain - where I need it. If the stretch runs vertically, did you encounter any problems in making/fitting the dress?"

Elle - I had to go and pull the dress out because honestly I never think about these things.  Seriously!  When you guys leave comments/questions sometimes I wonder why didn't I think about that!!!  Mostly I think it's because my hands are touching the fabric and contemplating what pattern to use...there is some tactile thing going on so when I'm laying the fabric on the cutting table preparing it for use...I can usually sense when something works and something doesn't.  Now wasn't that a real technical/scientific answer!  *LOL*  And for the record, after I stretched the dress, it has 4-way stretch.

Andrea asked:
"Has anyone irl ever noticed that you have 2 other dresses that are the same pattern?"

I've only worn two of these to work so far.  The gray and black one was worn with the cardigan all day so I don't think you would even realize what the underlying dress was.  However, after working here for the last five years, everyone knows I sew 90% of what I wear.  So besides compliments, the comment I get most often now is, "Did you just make that?!  It's nice!  When do you find the time!?"

Ginger asked:
"which pattern is your woven replacement?"

It is Butterick 3195 circa 2001 which is now out of print.  I need to get to this dress...I'm just gun shy right now! *LOL*  That CC dress really knocked me for a loop!

On The Great Fabric Migration, Sharon asked:
"What is your favorite way to label fabrics in your stash?"

Sharon since most of my fabric collection is from Fabric Mart it arrives with a little white sticky telling me how much I bought, how much I paid for it and how many yards are on it.  But for the pieces I get from other places, I usually add a 1"x1" square of paper that says the same thing.  It is affixed to the fabric with a straight pin.

Okay that's back 10 posts...if I missed a question, leave it in the comments section and I'll try to answer it.

Also, I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for ALL of the comments you leave.  I truly appreciate the time you take to not only read my blog but to write them up.  Thanks again!!!

Parting Shot:
I'm growing tomatoes on my balcony and they are getting big!

...as always, more later!

Saturday Evening Musings...

Just a few thoughts that have been rambling around in my brain...

~I'm scared of my NEW serger...seriously!  Everytime I start a new project I get very, very anxious because I have to change the serger thread...and I'm so anal about the serger thread matching the fashion fabric that I'm not happy when I don't match it...even if you can't see it!  I love the stitch the serger makes and the auto tension...it's just that I have to take several majorly deep breathes and walk around my apt before I can go in and change the threads on the serger.  It will get better, right!?  *LOL*
(Thanks for all the tips on how to thread my serger but I bought a new Imagine serger with the air jet threading and its the making it go whoosh that's causing the anxiety.  On my old serger, I was a pro and used all of the techniques suggested in the comments to make it work...these techniques do not work with the new serger...but thanks again for offering them!)

~I need a week off to sew.  I'm finally feeling the seasons starting to change...even tho' it is cold as heck here right now...I want to stay home with my fabric, my new patterns and my sewing machines and just make a couple of new garments so that when those soft gentle spring breezes start to flow, I'll be ready!  Plus I love sewing spring & summer dresses and skirts...

~Recently I looked at the Best of 2010 Pattern Listing on PR...it seemed to me that not alot of plus size sewists used the top ten patterns.  I wonder why?  Was it the silhouettes?  Or the styling or the pattern sizing?  Or do we plus size sewists just not use the patterns that the majority of women sew?  Just wondering...

~Went snoop shopping today...I love looking at clothing online but when you see something online you imagine it in really nice fabrics and vibrant prints...not necessarily how the manufacturer made it.  I've been gloaming on the dresses on Dress Barn's site.  I love that they are sized for plus size women, that they are in the colors and prints of the season and that they show me that I can make some of the popular silhouettes for my work wardrobe.  Well after a trip to DB today...I'm glad I can sew!  Those cheap prices are reflected in the fabric quality, the unlined or partially lined pieces and the terrible sizing.  Or maybe that's the normal sizing...the couple of dresses I tried on fit so poorly.  If they worked on the bottom they were too big on the top...or they were just too big all around!  So I will be copying a few of these looks for my summer wardrobe but in quality fabrics with full linings and in a size that will fit me!

~Fabric arrived today...yeah, yeah I know!  But Fabric Mart is having a sale - 20% off the website and they really are the right vendor for me...since they always seem to have just what I'm looking for...

You had a few questions...

BetsyV asked on "The Wearability Issues" post:
"Would you consider a couple of thread chains at the side seams at the hemline on the Versace/lace dress?"

I've tried that before and truthfully the entire dress ends up being pulled up...so when I pull off my coat the dress is up around my hind parts...not a pretty look! *LOL*  And it doesn't happen all the time with all my dresses, just in some instances when I'm wearing a coat and a heavy bag.  By leaving the lining hanging free, I have fewer issues.

JulieC asked on "The Wearability Issues" post:
"How do you determine the right length to hem it?"

The length of this skirt was determined by what's in fashion now.  Skirts are hovering around the knees in stores and this is a good look on me so I went with it.  Now I'm not making anything above my knees but a skirt at my knees and a shoe with a nice heel I have a taller, slimmer silhouette...even if the skirt is very full.

Dei asked on "The Wearability Issues" post:
"Where are the pics with you in the suit?"

I think you are referring to the Versace inspired suit and you can find them in this blog post or in my Flickr Album.

JustGail asked on the "What is it about Spring" post:
"I am wondering though, what did you make your spring sewing list on? Is that a Nook? And what did you use to create a list that looks like notebook paper with lines and margins?"

Gail - that is the basic notebook program on the iPad.  All the note pages are lined like that.  So sometimes I write out things like lists on it knowing that they won't get lost and that I can refer back to them or edit them anytime I want.

In a really old post, someone was asking about the bemberg linings and how I care for garments with the lining in them?

Anything I line, I pretty much dryclean which is most of my fall/winter wardrobe.  Many of my summer pieces, even dresses, are machine washable.  However, I have to note here that I have ALOT of clothes.  On average I've made 50 pieces for myself...each year for the last 5 years...it adds up y'know! On average my pieces are worn once maybe twice a season and with a good airing before they are placed back in the closet...that is sufficient.  This year since I primarily wore skirts this winter season, I haven't sent as many pieces to the dry cleaners, especially because I tend to dry clean my pants more frequently than any of my other garments. 

I will have pics of the finished Simplicity Jacket tomorrow...and I've started a new dress using one of the new Butterick patterns...

...more later!

Saturday Morning Diary Bits

I'm sitting here waiting for the border print knit to finish its cycle through the dryer and then I will be off to work on the twinset.  The twinset will take some manuevering to get it to work since the border print is in panels or 1/3rds of the fabric...but I think it will be awesome when finished.  A last bit of color before the bleakness of winter sets in because it is getting cold here in the Mid-Atlantic states.  I've turned my heat on in the evenings...40 degrees is just 8 degrees above freezing as my daughter likes to remind me!

So a few comments and I'm off to sew...

Several of you wondered in the last post when I sleep. 
I think that's funny because I love to sleep but mostly do it on the weekends!  I get between 5 and 6 hours a night...any more than that and I'm groggy in the mornings which won't do because I'm moving when I finally drag myself out of bed.  The better question might have been, what time do you go to bed?  I try to go between 11:30 and midnight.  Sometimes I'm tired and fall asleep about 10:30 but if that's the case then I only have 2 maybe 2.5 hours from the time I get home to get things done.  I've learned to get as much as I can done in 4 hours but sometimes I'm pushing it...and normally I don't sew when I get home during the week...the doll's outfit was an exception.

NancyK asked if I would post a picture of my niece and her doll...
Well my sister promised to send me one after the fashion show this afternoon.  I'm not attending...the thought of having to sit through a show of  9-10 year olds and their dolls was a little much for me...especially since that is a totally been there, done that kinda thing.  But my niece and sister were thrilled with the outfit and that's what matters most.  I will post the picture as soon as I get it.

All of the fabric that arrived this week has been put away. 
The closet is overflowing as is the bin in the bedroom so I need to start working my way through it.  I have a few ideas and I will share the fruits of my labors soon.  Also, thank you to everyone who added a comment understanding my obsession with fabric...it's good to know that there are quite a few of you out there with the same condition! ;)

Pattern Giveaway
If you participated in the pattern giveaway from last weekend, the patterns have been mailed.  Look for it to show up in your mailbox this week! I will definitely be doing at least one more of these as I work my way through the clean-up of my bedroom.

My sewing studio/bedroom remodel
Decisions have been made on the rug (well I've had it for some time now.  You've seen it rolled up and modeling in some of my pics!) and fabric for the curtains.  Here is the combo, we're working with below:

Okay I just heard the dryer buzzer so I'm off...

...as always, more later!

You have some questions...

Let's start with the questions that Bunny and Serenity Love Sincere Peace Earth asked:

1.  Does this adjustment add more to the neckline? Is that OK?
2.  If you add width to a bodice in a part that includes the neckline, won't it be too wide at the neck and hang of your shoulders exposing your bra?

These are both really good and valid questions.  And I decided that a picture would fully explain what I'm attempting to do:

The alteration occurs center front and will spread the front of the dress to the side lengthening the extension and giving me some more room...some much needed room.  This alteration will not affect the shoulder or the neckline extensively.  Please don't forget that there is an underpiece that helps to form the v-neckline and those two pieces are sewn together to form the dress front.  Did I share too much?  Do you understand the alteration or will you need to see the finished dress to understand?

There were a few questions from the "A Trio of Cardigans" blog post:

Animat asked, "Please how did you sew the lace on your machine?"

It was really simple.  I used a small stitch and sewed it together.  This lace is pretty dense and didn't have a lot of holes or open spaces without stitching and I think that's the key to using a lace for a piece like this.

Melissapedsrn asked, "tell me more about the application of stitch witchery before hemming the cardigans,was that too stabilize the fabric first before hemming?  "

I measure up the hem, press it flat and then open the hem and place the stitch witchery between the two pieces...like a sandwich...then I press it flat.  I like stitch witchery (now know as "sw") because it gives it a real solid finish...some sewists think of this as hard, not flexible and that's why they prefer steam-a-seam over sw.  Oh and I use a 5/8" wide sw that I buy on a 50 yard roll because my hems are typically 1" wide and the sw sandwiches well into the hemline...and yes it does stabilize the hem.  It also reduces the tunneling effect that you can sometimes get when you use a twin needle stitch finish.

elizabethe asked, "Why do you stitch and then serge just to finish the seams? Why not use the serger to construct the garment?"

That is a perfectly good question and I think I have constructed the cardigan this way once just using the serger but I prefer to use this sewing sequence.  Probably because I'm not an advanced serger user and primarily use my serger for finishing seams...the same way that I use my microwave just to heat things up in. *LOL*

Bunny asked, "Can you talk more about they dyeing?"

I'm sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.  I did not dye the fabric.  I was speaking about the actual manufacturing process of the fabric.  It is a printed on design and you can tell that the fibers reacted to the process differently when the varied colors of dye were applied.

Finally, thanks for taking the time to ask for clarification...a good question never hurt anyone! *smile*  And thank you for all of your kind compliments on both the cardis and the V9666 dress...you are too kind especially regarding that dress! *LOL*

...as always, more later!