The Burda Adventure Continues...

Let's call this part of the journey, the taping, tracing and upgrading of the Burda 08-2012-142 dress.

It took me several evenings after work to tape the entire pattern together...

There were 37 pages of 8.5" x 11" pages to be taped together.  I'll admit that by the end I was fading and definitely losing interest but I pushed through. After it was all taped, I had to decide how to proceed. Trace from the large pattern piece or cut it apart, trace, then add 5/8" seam allowances. Since the sleeve was in the center of the pattern I started tracing that piece but quickly came to the realization that I would cut the pieces apart then trace and alter.

First I need to talk about how I see this dress' silhouette.  I really like how the darts burst in the front. Since I have no plans to wash this alot (thanks Melissa for that tip!) I'm keeping the burst.  Plus I think it really is a bust enhancing feature and when your bustline competes with your abdomen, I'm doing all I can to enhance the bustline!  Next, I need to remind you that I don't like form fitting or tight clothing. Oh gawd but I hate being able to see my rolls through my clothes, so I'm choosing to make this dress a little looser fitting than the picture.  Please realize that this is MY personal choice and the choice that all sewists get to make when constructing their garments. 

However, I do like close fitting clothing that skims over the more bodacious parts of my body yet give me a slim silhouette.  Princess seams assist with a slimmer silhouette, so I'm definitely keeping them.  But I will be using my TNT dress as a "sloper" to assist with getting the fit I like.

After cutting up the downloaded pattern, I made my pattern sandwich and cut out new pattern pieces.  

This was easier for the back piece than the front due to the pleated front...and I think my burst piece may be a little bigger than it's suppose to be especially since I had to figure out the pleat markings. The pattern only marked size 44 and I'm in no way a 44.  Probably will be playing around with the pleats to get the best look for my bustline. So I will be basting the dress front together to check fit.

Here's the ponte I'm using to make the dress...

It's from the collection - woo hoo!  And it's a pretty berry color that will look great for fall.  Yes, just to remind you ~ I am sewing fall now.

Next up will be cutting, tracing and construction.  I may or may not slip another project in before completing this one, of course I will keep you informed.  BTW, Debbie I'm working on this as fast as I can, cause I'd love to see your version of this dress!

...as always more later!

A New Adventure

Somewhere long ago on a day that I was probably bored, I signed up for BurdaStyle.  Now I rarely go on the site, but I do receive their emails. Honestly, most times I just delete them.  I know, I know, quite a few of you just cringed...but if you knew how much junk I get in my email box you would understand...or maybe you wouldn't.  

Anywhooo, today's email caught my eye because there was the word plus size in there somewhere...and even though I've given up all of my Burda subscriptions...today I clicked the email.  While perusing the garments in the plus size section, I stumbled upon this dress...

08/2012 #142 

...and after looking at the technical drawing, I was sold.

So the process of getting the pattern downloaded began.  Can I make a few suggestions to make this process a little easier, more user friendly...

1.  There should be a guest check out.  Maybe someone wants to purchase the product without having to be a member especially since Burda Style magazines are so hard to find in the US.

2.  If you're going to offer the option to become a member, maybe the email that you need to log in should come quickly.  I couldn't remember my log-in so I attempted to rejoin using another email address.  Three hours later and I still hadn't received an email. Actually I gave up waiting after 15 minutes.  I'm old.  I have less time than more so I tend not to waste it waiting. 

3.  So I signed in using my Facebook account.  Okay that was even worse...because then they want to post on my timeline and send notices to my friends.  Really? Do you really think I want to subject "my friends" to this?! (Oh and by the way, I would appreciate it if you didn't all start looking for me on Facebook. I'm not a big user and ignore most "friend" requests.)

I did finally get to purchase the pattern and print it out...ssshhh, I did it at work cause the printer is faster!  So this is what I came home with...

...and this is what my pattern is looking like as I'm taping it together...

Now I have to tell you this...I REALLY want to make this dress because I HATE taping pieces of paper together to end up with a pattern.  And now I'm in taping hell.

I do want to make the dress and I have a lightweight eggplant ponte that I'd like to use with this pattern.  Yeah, Momma don't lie...I'm sewing fall now! Okay, full disclosure I did start a red cotton eyelet sheath dress last weekend after I finished up Vogue 2090.  

Oh, I didn't tell that you it was done...well it is...just waiting for pics because I finished it after my daughter and the grandkids went home.  Wanna a sneak peek?  Okay you don't have to twist my arm...here you go.

I'm really liking this dress, enough that I'm thinking I should remake it again in a ponte for fall with long sleeves ~ that way the dress won't need a lining. Because the last time I made it for fall/winter in wool crepe, I added a lining and the dress was really heavy and hot.  Great premenopausal...not so great now that I'm a grown ass woman! *LOL*

Okay reining it back in...I think the tape fumes are affecting me.  I will keep you updated on the taping and tracing (seriously?!) of the Burda pattern.  Hey I spent $5.40 for it so I should at least get a pattern right?

...as always more later!

My Love/Hate Relationship with Burda

I stopped buying Burda Style/World of Fashion last year.  I didn't subscribe to it and my local magazine stand stopped carrying it.  I've made exactly three garments from a dozen years of BWOF/BS so I stopped buying it.  However, I did subscribe to Burda Plus which was a bi-annual magazine featuring plus size designs.  I did love it, even though I made nuthin' from the patterns and I must have six years of Burda Plus magazines to show for it.  Don't really know that for sure because my Burda collection is still packed up waiting for storage to be set up in my new sewing room.

I really didn't miss either magazine during my year's hiatus. Then I got an email.  A simple email started me down the road to ruin.  The email showed this magazine...

...and I was intrigued...and then curious...and then before you know it I was on the GLP website ordering it. But it seemed kinda silly to only order this one magazine, so I signed for another year of Burda Plus. Figuring that since I no longer buy Burda Style every month, all the patterns would be new to me.  A problem I was having with Burda Plus before...they were recycling the plus size patterns from the monthly issues.

Anyway, long story short, the magazine showed up this week and I was disappointed.  Really and truly disappointed.  The magazine says that it has styles in ALL sizes...yeah right.  Two lousy loose pieces, $10 for two lousy pieces.  Can you tell I'm annoyed?  And this is after receiving the first issue of the Burda Plus, which was actually a great issue!  See love/hate...

I'm thinking that after this second issue of Burda Plus arrives, I'm letting it go. Because I didn't really miss anything...my sewing is going in another direction...not in the way Burda is going.  Y'know I love seeing garments other Burda lovers/sewists make. I love seeing how they brought the idea to fruition. But in all honesty, that's not me.  Right now, I'm really enthralled with interpreting designer looks and making them in my size...or sewing up a wardrobe...a series of garments that work together and allow me to plan.  That's my sewing right now...not Burda Style or Burda Plus.  

So after this next issue I won't renew.  I'm actually glad that I did this because it confirms that my original decision was correct and I won't be enticed again.

...as always more later!

I'm not missing it!

True confession time...I haven't bought a Burda Style monthly mag or a Burda Plus since the May issue 2011...and I'm not missing it!  I was really worried that I would miss the trendy stylings and the fashion forward garments but I have to say that nope...not feeling any separation anxities...no need to scour NYC for a copy of one...nuthin'!

I think alot of this can be contributed to Vogue Pattern Magazine upping its game and providing a magazine with a lot of the things that I loved about the old Burda magazine...not that thing that the new BS has morphed into.  I truly feel that the Burda Style editors kicked me and some of it's long time American readers to the curb when they dismantled the old website and replaced it with the new one.  And please understand that I'm not bashing that website, because it does provide a service to the new sewist...a service that is needed so that our craft continues with the next generation...it just does nothing for me.

So I will continue to enjoy the 12-13 years of magazines that I currently own and have no intentions of parting with.  I may even look for a new garment to make from one of those magazines since they were so fashion forward...but I since I'm not missing BS...I will no longer actively look for it...it's time to move on!

...as always, more later!

To Burda Plus or Not?

There has been a little brouhaha lately about the Burda Plus pattern magazine.  First it use to come out quarterly, I know because I own quite a few of them.  Then they made it bi-annual.  Now the magazine has four sections and only one of the sections has new patterns in it.  The other three sections are just repeats of the patterns that appear in the monthly version of Burda Style magazine.

Since I purchase the BS magazine every month, I'm questioning why I need to continue my subscription to Burda Plus?  For someone who doesn't sew from the BS magazine every month, I have to admit that I love this pattern magazine.  It is so fashionable with such great details included in the clothing...even the plus size garments are fashion forward and trendy. 

So why do I need the recycled patterns twice a year?  It would help if they made them up in different fabrics and photographed them in different settings (like the Big 4 do) but noooooo....they use the exact same photos from the monthly BS.  (Okay, I'm getting quite a thrill out of calling it BS...childish I know! *chuckle, chuckle*)  I've also got serious issues with the fact that they did away with the English version of the Burda site for that new anomoly!  And please don't tell me that the present site has anything to do with the Burda site of old...that, however, is a "discussion" for another time.

Right now, I'm trying to figure out what to do.  Do you want to know what my real quandry is?  I'm afraid I will miss something.  Yeap that's it in a nutshell.  What if they go back to their old ways and print an amazing fall issue with some awesome fat girl clothes...and I miss it!  'Cause it's dayum near impossible to find a Burda Plus on the newsstands and GLP always seems to run out of the good issues with a quickness!

I have to decide soon...the issue pictured above is the last one of my subscription.  I just don't know whether to Burda Plus or not...*sigh*

***************************************

On another note, have you noticed that there is no sewing going on around here!  Nuthin' at all in the last few posts about actual sewing...hopefully I will fix that this weekend...hopefully...

....more later!

Done...done...and so...done!

Yes, the dress is finished! So this:

plus this:

equals this:

Sometimes though I wonder if you read these ramblings and think I'm whining during the creation process.  It sure seems that way to me when I read an older post, but I truly use my blog as a diary and as such some times I vent here...dream and plot here...and pat myself on the back here.  I just allow you to read over my shoulder!  *LOL*

You want some stats right:

Pattern:
Burda WOF (that's what it was called then!) 09-2005-115

Fabric:
1.5 yards of off white doubleknit from Fabric.com
1.5 yards of black doubleknit from Metro Textiles

Notions:
1 ~ 18" white zipper
scraps of black/white printed doubleknit from Fabric Mart
3 yards black rayon seam tape
1 hook & eye

Construction Information:
There are several differences between this dress and the original version ~ longer sleeves, no lining and I colorblocked this one in the front and the back.  The original version only has the seamed detailing in the front...this one has a curved seam in the back also.

The other difference was that for the first dress I had already worked out the construction process in my head way before I traced the pattern or before I cut the fabric.  Since I got the idea Thanksgiving Day to make this version, all of the process had to be worked out as I went along. 

This led to much waffling and indecision ~ to topstitch or not ~ where to add the printed doubleknit to the dress ~ whether to have an all black back or a black & white back.  This caused ALOT of frustration during the construction process.  I am so use to having the roadmap that I've already worked out in my head to follow while I'm sewing...that making the decisions step by step almost wore me out!

However, as you see, I went with the white top & the black skirt.  Making sure to curve the back seam so it duplicated what was happening in the front:

I also decided to discreetly add the black/white trim.  My original plan was to have it at the waistline (sort of belt like), at the sleeve hem and at the neckline.  I settled for at the neckline and the sleeveline:

This conveys the look I was aiming for better than some of my original thoughts.  Finally one last look ~ wearing it with the black doubleknit cardigan that I made about 4 years ago:

More photos of the dress can be seen in my flickr album, Burda Style Projects.

Of course, the thing that everyone has really been waiting for...the winner of the two pieces of fabric from Fabric Mart...and they are:

2.5 yards of Gray/Cranberry Stripe Wool Double Knit:

Zusana from Bratislava, Slovak Republic

1.5 yards of Chocolate Brown Bamboo Knit:

Jodie from Alberta Canada

Congratulations to you ladies!!!  I will send these pieces out via the postal service this week.  Please let me know your mailing address by dropping me a line at my email address found in my profile.  Thanks and congrats again!

Lastly, I've started working on another dress.  It's one of the pieces from The Pinstripe Follies collection.  Something that I have a construction plan already worked out for using my TNT dress pattern plus the details from a vintage '60s pattern.

...more later!

Friday Diary Bits - November Style

I hope everyone who celebrates enjoyed their Thanksgiving holiday!  Mine was filled with lots and lots of good food and family.  We ate ourselves silly and then proceeded to solve every problem that was wrong with the world!  *LOL*  Alot of reality TV was discussed, who knew so much of it was watched by my family...and card games abounded.  But the most amazing thing about the day, was the dayum snow!  Yes, peoples it snowed yesterday, here in my corner of the world.  No, it did not stick but the audacity that it would be doing it so early in the fall/winter season does not bode well...*sigh*

Today, I have spent the morning pretreating all of my fabrics for The Pinstripe Follies wardrobe.  For the first time I tried Pam Erny's way of pretreating wools by using the towel and dryer method and can really see no difference in this method on the treated wool vs. my iron/steam method except that I surfed the internet while the dryer did all of the hard work...so I will be using this technique again!  The last set of poly charmeuses are in the washer now.

However, yesterday while surfing the internet, prior to going to dinner, I got inspired by a dress that I found on InStyle and I decided that since I have three days to sew why not sew something I wanted as well as something from the plan.  So this afternoon, this fabric:

plus this inspirational dress:

will become another version of the BurdaStyle 09-2005-115 dress just with 3/4 length sleeves. It's getting cold here and I do NOT like being cold!

On another Burda note...I bought my copy of the December 2010 magazine Wednesday morning...last night while watching television I perused it.  I know that there have been some complaints about some of the crafts showcased in the magazine but I have to say that I thought the gift ideas compiled for this issue were quite charming.  But I guess what I liked most is that the magazine is chock full of embellishment patterns that can be copied and enlarged and added to garments at a future date...look for them because I saw some interesting embellishments!  *LOL*  ...some that were in the back of my mind to be included on a dress or two...

I did partake in one more fabric sale...Fabric.com is offering anywhere from 20 - 30% off their fabric depending upon how much fabric you buy...so I restocked some of my basic colored rayon bemberg linings.  I love that I can order it and have it shipped to my apt instead of having to schlep it out of NYC!  However, I still buy special colors from NY Elegance Fabrics...their selection is like rainbow heaven and when I want a special match, I head there first! They also sell it in 45" and 60" widths.

Well I'm off to sew...I've got some Mountain Dew...some DVDs and no plans for the rest of weekend...since the SO is working all weekend...

...more later!

Black, White & Red ~ Totally Work Ready!

It's Sunday afternoon and I've finally gotten the pictures taken of the last two dresses.  I have to admit that I was slow rolling with the Burda WOF dress...it just seemed to take me forever to get motivated to cut out and sew in the lining, add the sleeves and hem the thing.  But it's done and on Day 9 or the last day of my vacation, I find that I have no desire left to sew.  In all honesty, that started to occur about mid-afternoon yesterday!

You want pictures, dontcha, well that's for the few that haven't already scrolled ahead to see both dresses! *LOL*  Let's start with the Macy's Color Blocked Dress:

Some stats:
Pattern:
TNT dress pattern cut to reflect the color blocking of the original dress

Fabric:
1.5 yards black doubleknit purchased from Metro Textiles
.5 yard red doubleknit purchased from Metro Textiles
.25 yard beige/nude Sophia knit purchased from fabric.com

Notions:
22" invisible zipper
3 yards black knit bias binding

Some additional information:
Originally, I was going to add short sleeves to this dress.  But after letting it hang overnight, I decided to keep it true to the original inspiration photo.  Since I did not plan to line the dress, I added black knit bias binding to the armholes and the neckline.

Due to the fabric, this dress hangs a little closer to my body than my original TNT dress does.  My DD thinks it looks good this way, and you know me...I like the illusion of close-fitting, not a dress that is actually close-fitting!  So I will probably wear it with a black doubleknit Burda cardigan that I made about five years ago.

I am very happy with how the dress turned out.  It was relatively simple to duplicate and even though the dress can be purchased (and in a plus size too) it was fun to make this journey.

One more shot...

Next up is the Burda 09-2005-115 Dress

This dress was a lot of pattern work!  The actual sewing was simple but...well we all know how I feel about tracing patterns, so let's not rehash that, okay! *LOL*  We took a lot of pictures but it's really hard to get those seamlines upclose on my point and shoot...and this just emphasizes my thoughts when I was making the dress...that the seaming is so subtle, you will need to be right up on me to actually see it.  However, it was an interesting sewing challenge to grade the pattern pieces from a size 36-44 up to my size which is a Burda 50/52.

Stats:
Pattern:
My TNT dress pattern was the starting point along with the pattern pieces from the Sept. 2005 issue of Burda World of Fashion.  This was a hand-in-hand partnership.  There would be no finished dress without either pattern.

Fabric:
2 yards of raspberry light-midweight doubleknit fabric purchased from fabric.com
2 yards of raisin lining fabric from the collection

Notions:
22" invisible zipper

Additional construction information:
I did add the short sleeves to this dress.  I used the sleeve pattern from my TNT dress cutting it with a center seamline and leaving a 3" opening at the bottom to add a little interest to the sleeve.  I also topstitched both sides of the sleeve and the hem.

I added the sleeves because I want to be able to wear the dress either alone or with a cardigan. 

Like the original pattern, this dress is lined but only the body of the dress not the sleeves.  It's a really pretty dress and works well with the last Burda cardigan that I made.  It will work with quite a few other cardigans and jackets in my wardrobe, too.

Here's a photo of everything I made during my sewcation:

3 dresses, 1 top, 1 cardigan and a pair of pants.  Not as much as last year but then this time I wasn't going for quantity, I was sewing what interested me.  All pictures can be seen here.  There does appear to be a theme to these pieces, that was totally unintended.  Black, white & red ~ totally work ready!

Melissa had this question:
"Where do you get your tracing paper? The last batch I got from Nancy's Notions and it's thicker/heavier than I would like, especially for fitting."

The tracing paper is from Dick Blick.  I bought it upon Ann's recommendation.  Follow the link's on her post and you can order some too.  I bought two rolls of the tracing paper and boy am I glad that I did.  I went through a lot of it this week and it was wonderful to use.

One last piece of business and I'm out to veg on the couch and watch The Lord of the Rings trilogy on TNT...Denise who authors the blog, The Blue Gardenia, is doing a sewing book giveaway.  Surf over and see which one of her favorite bloggers book she is giving away!

Well that's it for me...hope you made it this far!  Cause I have a parting shot to share...me and The Little Prince who will be 18 months old this week!

...as always, more later!

Burda 9-2005-115 - Construction

My first thoughts upon getting the dress cut out and the front assembled was, "it's a lot of work for such a subtle effect."  Seriously, I think if I'm standing  on the corner all anyone would see is the raspberry dress. You would have to walk up to me to see the seaming detail.  So this exercise has been more about the sewing challenge than the end result...unlike the Macy's dress where you can clearly see the effect of the fabric piecing.

Exhibit 1 

The dress front constructed and hanging from the closet door:

I guess I need to ask if the time and effort was worth it?  I would say yes for a few reasons. 

1.  I survived the dreaded Burda tracing experiment.
2.  I did actually take a pattern that was sized much smaller than I am and enlarge it to fit me, thereby proving to myself that it can be done.
3.  The actual shell of the dress is very appealing on.
4.  It will be a different type of sheath dress than is presently in my wardrobe.

So do you want to see how the dress looks so far?  Here is a close-up of the front on me:

Here is a back view:

(I think it's reading truest to the color in this pic)

Some construction changes:
~ You know that I opted to only cut the front pattern pieces for the dress.  Because of the fabric requirements in the magazine, I thought that the 2 yards of raspberry doubleknit I had would make the dress...well it didn't.  I had to creatively cut the back.  So I added a seam at the hip area.  I think it works okay...and if you think it doesn't, that's okay.  I'm wearing it this way! *LOL*

~ I am going to add short sleeves to this dress.  The sleeve will be made with a seam down its center and a slight opening at the hem.  Hopefully this will go with the pieced affect of the dress.

~ A lining will be added to this dress.  This is a lighterweight doubleknit than the Macy's dress and I think the lining will help with the overall look of the dress.

Some thoughts:
Putting this dress together was a step by step process.  I couldn't miss a step or everything would have been out of whack.  And as I stated before this was definitely more about the sewing challenge than about the dress.  I'm lucky the experiment worked.  It easily couldn't have.

Finally you had some questions:
Laura asked:
"Would you mind terribly doing a tutorial on how to grade up a pattern using a TNT dress pattern?"
You know this is a really simple process if you start with a TNT pattern piece.  I traced the Burda pieces, then laid them on top of a traced copy of the TNT dress front.  Each Burda pattern piece was then elongated width wise.  Here's a pic to show my starting point more clearly:

And here is a picture of the pattern pieces after they've been elongated and seam allowances added:

You can refer to my last post for more information on the process or the pictures in my Flickr Album to see the entire progression.  But really I didn't do anything extraordinary or something that you couldn't do yourself with a TNT pattern.

Meredithp asked the same type of question that Laura asked:
"Did you get the curved pieces that you enjoyed tracing so much, and just draw them on your TNT?"
Hopefully the picture explains it.  If not, please feel free to ask a more detailed question.

Couturearts stated (btw, is this you Claudine?):
"A suggestion, if I may. You might want to consider incorporating the bust dart into one of the horizontal seams. It will look more elegant that way."

Here is a picture of my top with the dart:

The way that Burda instructs you to cut out the pattern pieces, there's no dart.  I don't know if it's included in the seam or not.  However, since mine is not a precise duplication, I did include the dart from my TNT pattern into the piece, figuring that it would help but that no one would notice it but me.  If I were to make this again, I would definitely like to include it in the seam but would have to seek out some expert advice on how to do that.

Several of you stated that I would get better at the tracing if I did it more.  Ummmm, I don't think so.  This is the second Burda pattern that I've attempted in 10 months.  Does that tell you something about how I feel about tracing patterns?!  *LOL*  Gawd, I have a boatload of Hot Patterns and still haven't made one yet because you have to trace them!  Sad, I know.  I'm still working on that part of my journey...okay!?!  ROTFLOL!

So I have to add the lining, cut the sleeves out from the scraps and hem the dress.  I probably will have fashion shots of both dresses tomorrow.  I just wanted to give an update on this dress' progress.

...as always, more later!

Burda 09-2005-115 - Pattern Alterations

First let's get it out of the way...the Macy's color blocked dress is finished. However, after spending the day out I'm just not in the mood to get dressed up and take pictures.  So I promise I will have pics of me in the finished dress soon.

Before I left this afternoon, I worked on the Burda dress #115 from the September 2005 issue.  Let me remind you of how Burda WOF (that's what it was called then!) showed it:

This is the description, "Elegant but not showy - this Sixties-styled sheath dress is quite typical for the Lady Look.  Newly interpreted with curved waist seams, this classic looks ever so modern and is extremely figure flattering.  Our illustrated sewing course for this style located in the supplement will guarantee your sewing success."

I need to start out by saying that even though I love the design on this dress because it is so ladylike and classic, I HATE tracing the pattern off those pattern sheets.  *sigh*  I need to say this again...I HATE TRACING THE PATTERN OFF THOSE SHEETS!  Okay I'm feeling a little better...

So after I traced all those dayum pieces off the pattern sheets, and there are a lot of pieces, I had to alter all of those pieces because this pattern is size 36 - 44.  Yeah, I think I wear a 50 or 52 in a BWOF pattern. *sigh* I was ready to toss this project in the garbage at that point and go look for a very easy top to make.  But I realized that I started the tracing too late last night and that a fresh perspective in the morning would help.  

This morning the tracing was a little easier but again I wonder how do you Burdaphiles do this?  Anyway, my starting point was once again my TNT dress pattern.  Please, there was just no way that I was re-inventing the fit process with all those tiny little dress pieces!

After the front dress piece from my TNT pattern was traced, it was used as a basis to enlarge the Burda pattern pieces. 

The Burda pieces were lain on top of the dress front.  I then enlarged each pattern piece to meet my fitted TNT dress pattern.  Each piece was cut out and 5/8" seam allowances were added to the edges of each one.  

Then to double check and make sure that the pattern actually reflected my TNT dress front, I laid them back onto the pattern, checked them again and made additional corrections.  After all of the pattern work on the front of the dress, I've decided that I will use my TNT back pattern pieces.  The thought of doing this process all over again for the back pieces and then matching the sides seams, started me to trembling and muttering...it wasn't good people! *LOL*  So this is where I left the dress when I went out to lunch with my Mom and my daughter. 

BTW, the BWOF magazine shows the dress two ways ~ in a tweedy fabric and in a smooth tropical wool fabric.  I wasn't sure what fabric I was going to use when I went out but when I got home and saw the Macy's Dress hanging, I realized that a doubleknit would really showcase the seaming...and even though I thought I had a gray one on hand...

I'm going to go with this raspberry one.  If I'm gonna put this much effort into the pattern alterations, well d*mnit, you're going to see each and every one of those seams in a boldly colored dress!  I can always tone it down for work by adding a black or navy cardigan.

I'm off to cut out ALL of those pattern pieces...

...and as always more later!

    

Some cleaning but no sewing going on...

I know that everyone is looking for a new garment but somehow I never manage to sew my first day of vacation.  Today I actually spent a considerable amount of time on the computer and cleaning...yes, cleaning.  Even though I have someone clean for me, there are some things that I like to do myself, so I did some of that today...and then there's my bedroom which is a wreck.  So before I can settle in to sew, I must straighten it out first!

That leads to this post btw.  I'm sure everyone has seen the new September BurdaStyle magazine.  If not here is a pic:

There is a discussion going on at Stitcher's Guild about the dress on the cover.  It's either loved or not...I'm in the love category, btw.  Anyway, back to the cleaning...there is a pile of sewing mags by the side of the bed that I'm putting away.  Now you know putting away doesn't mean that I pile them up, take them to the living room and place them in the proper spot...no this involves some page turning, some looking and even some deciding if it really should leave my bedroom!  *LOL*

While flipping through the September 2005 issue, which was laying by the bed for a cardigan pattern that I absolutely adore, I found this:

Yeap, doesn't it look very similar to the dress on the cover of the Sept. 2010 issue!  There are some differences...the rounded yoke neckline, the missing flanges (but seriously who needs them), it comes in sizes 36 - 44 and the pieces are located on the pages where you can actually see the pattern pieces.

It's also the Illustrated Sewing Course, so you can see how to assemble the dress.  Now I really loved the dress on the front of the September 2010 issue but the one inside the September 2005 issue will be easier for me to knock-off.  One because the newer one is a petite version and located on those terrible pattern sheets...and you know how much I hate tracing!  And two, because it will be easier to grade up (okay lay on top of my TNT dress pattern and cut up) AND its the old pattern sheets, so easier to see to trace!

I got the idea to put this dress on my sewing list when I bought the new BurdaStyle Magazine Thursday evening.  However, it was just going on the list.  Now I'm thinking...can't you smell the wood burning *LOL*...that I may need to work on this dress this week.  I have some doubleknit in the closet in both gray and raspberry...and it might be fun to make this work!

So we shall see...but isn't it interesting that a version of the same dress is in two different Burda magazines five years apart!  And if you collect (hoard) Burda's like I do, you might have this issue in your collection too!

Well back to cleaning...I'm not quite done yet.  But I will be finished tonight because I will be up early tomorrow morning, laying out a pattern.  I have to get a little sewing in before I head off to my family's annual Labor Day barbeque.  There are some cousins coming that I haven't seen in awhile...so I'll be in my sister's backyard eating, talking junk, playing spades and enjoying my family's company. 

I hope everyone who celebrates Labor Day has a wonderful weekend too!

...as always, more later!

It's Begun - The Burda Skirt

After seeing the skirt in the December Burda Style, I had to have it and I wasn't going to be deterred by the fact that it was only graded up to a size 46...especially since I'm probably more like a size 50 in Burda.  I mean I have a TNT skirt pattern and some tracing pattern, why couldn't I make this skirt?

I've spent several days thinking about how I would alter the pattern to fit me...what changes I needed to make to both my TNT pattern and the Burda skirt piece.  I even got Marji involved when I told her that I couldn't come up with a lining alternative...her suggestions follow in the next post.

But before pattern alterations, there is pattern tracing...and now I remember why I don't use my Burdas more often.  I know you everyday Burda users think nuthin' about tracing off patterns...but this was a semi-challenge to a chick wearing new progressive lenses (bifocals) and having problems seeing anything up close!  All of those intersecting lines in several different colors made my head hurt but I pressed on because I really want this skirt!

So out comes the black sharpie and following some advice to outline the pattern piece with said sharpie, I trace the main skirt pattern and all of its markings only. 

Why did I do this?  Because I am going to use the back skirt piece of my TNT pattern.   I mean that piece fits, I know it fits, I've made it several times...okay more than that but you know what I mean!  So why re-invent the wheel?  After the piece was traced out the real fun began because I have to turn the original skirt piece into a workable pattern piece for me.

Who knew a size 46 was so d*mn small!  When I first looked at that piece I was wondering if I would be able to make it fit me!!!  But I really want this skirt so I moved on! Since I didn't want to alter my TNT skirt pattern, I drew another one onto pattern paper:

Then I sliced the traced Burda skirt pattern into two pieces...cutting it apart at the center front line.  The piece that was the normal skirt side was matched to my original skirt piece...and taped down.  With a slice of pattern paper, I added an insert between the two pieces.  The insert measured 10.5" at the top tapering out to 12" at the skirt bottom.  And more taping ensued so that I would have a workable pattern piece that wouldn't fall apart with a little handling.  I also lengthened the skirt pattern (that's why the lines are about 6" higher on the original Burda skirt pieces), ummm that thing was sooooo short, I would scare grown men and little children!  I also straightened out the side seam on the right...figuring I need as much fabric to cross my body as possible!

Finally with my daughter's help, I tissue fit the pattern to the front of me checking to see if I needed to add more to the front of the skirt pattern...but it was okay.  It fit!  Even with the piece pulled over to form the drape - it fit! Insert Snoopy dance here because I really want to make this skirt! *LOL*

And that's where I left the skirt.  Today I will wade into my fabric closet because in the midst of my daughter pulling down the Christmas ornaments Friday evening, she pulled down the entire top shelf of fabric.  I need to find the black wool crepe that I want to use for the skirt...hopefully later today I will have pics of the finished skirt to share...

I hope so, 'cause I really want to make and wear this skirt!!! *LOL*

...as always, more later!