60s Inspired Wool Boucle Jacket

I found this awesome wool boucle on the Third Floor of Mood's NYC store.  I know people have favorite sections of the store but me, I love the third floor because it's magical!  You never know what you'll find there and every time I climb the stairs, I find the most amazing treats.

To be honest, I've had this piece for a minute.  When Todd pulled it off the rack for me, I squealed with joy because not only is it a beautiful creamy medium weight boucle but it's also backed with interfacing. And yes, Lauren this is the piece that I tried, begged & pleaded with you to buy but you passed.  Ummm, next time you'll listen to me about everything, right?!  *LOL*

Peoples when I find a fabric that's backed with interfacing it's like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.  It's like the Holy Grail of fabrics - one to be wished and hoped for...to be ever in search of...because a pre-fused piece of fabric is so wonderful to work with that like a druggie looking for a fix...I'm constantly in search of it!  *LOL*

Now I know you think I'm being extreme but I'm not...cause I purchased 2.5 yards of this loveliness...

...and this is what I made!

Patterns used to make this jacket ~
Vogue 2285 - circa 1999 and vintage 60s Simplicity 5144

Notions ~
White bemberg lining
Black & White polka dot silk used in the faux pockets 
White rayon seam tape
3/4" shoulder pads

All of the construction details regarding the sewing of this jacket are included in this post.  I didn't make any changes from my first version of this jacket but it was wonderful having a road map to assist me with it.  I made this one closer to the pattern envelope's illustration...not including any closures.  My original version did have closures on it ~ buttons backed with fabric covered snaps.

The thing I love the most about this jacket is the faux welt pockets with the black polka dot fabric inserts.  Aren't they kewl?  Of course, the instruction sheet for the Vintage Simplicity Pattern explains exactly how to accomplish this so that even a newbie could handle making these.  It's one of the things I love about vintage patterns, they have the kewlest details that really make the finished garment special.

Here is a close up of the details of the jacket modeled on Lulu.  Not only is this jacket on trend ~ vanilla is hot, hot, hot for fall/winter ~ but it goes with so many garments already living in my closet.  Another plus!  And doesn't that pin look fantastic with the jacket?!  I have loads of pins collected over the years that will work well with the jacket too.

A few more pictures of the jacket in action...

Thanks for all of the photography tips on my last post. I will be putting them to good use. Amy & Marce I will remember about direct sunlight but all that talk about lens was like alien speak to me!  LOL!  And here I thought direct sunlight was better than shade or a cloudy day even...not to mention ignoring the fact that all of my neighbors were staring at me like I was crazy cause you know people stand in the street posing with two little kids running around screaming and the photographer going don't move, don't move in a very loud voice! 

Finally here's a sneak peek at my next make which will be featured on The Mood Sewing Network tomorrow.

...as always more later!

60s Inspired Vintage Boucle Jacket - Construction

The best thing about using a previously sewn pattern is that you can just cut and sew.  Your biggest problem is will the design idea work like you want it to.  I wrote my last post about choosing this jacket with this thought process...12 hours on Sunday another 4 on Monday and another 4 on Tuesday gives me 16 hours of sewing time.  Personally I can make a jacket (lined or unlined) in that amount of time from a previously sewn pattern.  8-10 hours is all I really need...y'know after I finish kicking and screaming! *LOL*

So these are the two patterns that I'm using to make my 60's vintage inspired wool boucle jacket:

And these are the fabrics...cream wool boucle already backed with fusible knit purchased from Moods 3rd floor (love that floor!) in the NYC store:

Here is the silk from the collection that I'm using to peek through the faux welt pockets:

The jacket will be lined with a cream colored bemberg rayon lining also from the collection:

Pattern Alteration and Construction ~
The first thing I needed to do was to alter the jacket sleeve.  Since the sleeve on the Vogue circa 1999 pattern and the vintage Simplicity pattern both have a one piece sleeve, I used the sleeve from my dress pattern to make a pattern sandwich to create a new sleeve for the jacket. This will solve my bodacious bicep issues.

Added a center back seam to the jacket back pattern piece.

Then the jacket fronts and backs were constructed the same way described in this post.  So this is what the jacket shell looks like now.  The only change I made this time was to use smaller pieces of fabric for the welt pocket windows.  Since I'm using a black 'n white polka dot fabric that is dark, I didn't want the fabric to show through the lining or the jacket front.

The jacket was assembled and then the sleeves sewn in.  I'm working on adding the lining now but just wanted to give an update on the construction of the jacket prior to it's reveal.

I'm really thrilled with it so far.  It was a good choice for my Mood project because the jacket pattern's fit issues had already been resolved and I like the interesting details that are featured on the jacket front.  Also it really helped that the fabric was already backed with fusible interfacing. 

I love these types of fabric cuts and always try to purchase them when I find one. One less step to do when working on a jacket project.  If you find a fabric that's backed with interfacing, I highly recommend that you purchase it.

...as always more later!

What to do? What to do?

So it's Saturday and I've got a pile of fabric from Mood sitting on my cutting table begging me to see something in them so that I can sew up something marvelous and have it photographed by Wednesday. See I had a project...a perfectly good project but it's a little too involved for my due date.  

I purchased the perfect fabric to make my perfect lavender transitional coat...but sickness did me in.  Gawd, I was even going to make a muslin. Bought actual muslin fabric and everything.  I nevah muslin so to say I'm disappointed that I'm not working on this project is an overstatement.  However, I will make it later on cause I really want that coat!

Now though, my self picked Mood date is approaching and here I sit trying to make it work. I've been sewing for the Mood Network for over a year now and this is the first time that sickness has derailed me.  I've been late because a garment was more intricate than I originally thought and picked another date but I've never sat in the sewing cave wondering what the hell could I sew!

I had an idea and I thought it would work until I put my two pieces of fabric side by side and they didn't play as well together as I thought they would. Back to the drawing board.  I really want a dress/jacket combo but I will need a jacket pattern that I've made before so all of my fit issues have been resolved and I have precious few of those that I presently like.  But now that I've gotten the idea in my head I can't get it out.

So I go pawing through all of the patterns that I've made for the last five years and I find this one ~ Vogue 2285 which is so out of print it's pitiful.  The pattern's copyright date is 1999 but I used it as the basis to make a vintage inspired jacket back in 2008 which became part of my Easter Outfit that year.

I've always wanted to make another jacket like it but improve upon the sleeve fit, which is what ultimately did that jacket in.  Also, I really like the faux welt pockets or slot seams that the jacket uses.  I could make this and have it photographed by Wednesday evening.  Here is a picture of the vintage jacket that inspired the original jacket and this new one...

The fabric I've chosen will work with quite a few pieces already in my wardrobe so I won't need to make a second piece to accompany it.  Finally the only pattern work I will need to do is enlarge the sleeve pattern which I'm going to do by using a sleeve pattern piece that presently works. Thankfully I blogged the entire construction process here back in 2008.

Now it's time to clear off the sewing table and make the magic happen...hahahahaha!

...as always more later!