NEXT...Sunday Miscellany

First, you may have noticed this year that I didn't do a tribute post for the Martin Luther King, Jr. holiday. I don't even know the last time I didn't write one and am to lazy to look it up. There was a two-fold reason for that, that whole Twitter war with Congressman John Lewis just gave me the hebbie gebbies but most importantly I was SICK as a dog and had no energy to move out of my bed!

Instead of blogging and sewing on Monday, I was laid up watching QVC. I don't know how much you know about QVC, the television shopping network, but every day they feature a "Today's Special Value (TSV)" which is supposed to be the best buy of the day. Monday's TSV was a pair of denim jeans by Isaac Mizrahi.

Isaac appeared in about five shows during that day...each one started off showcasing those jeans (btw I did not buy a pair) and then all of these tops he's designed. I didn't buy any of those either but after watching about 10 hours of jeans and tops, cardigans and jackets, I got a clearer idea of what I need/want to be sewing.

See I've made some tops but I just don't get that down in the bones thrill that I get from sewing a dress. I'm sure some of this is because I didn't really need tops in my former life. I made a couple here and there but they weren't up to the standards of some of my dresses. I didn't even have a TNT top/blouse pattern which is why I've probably been flailing a little when it came time to actually sew them.

Of the tops I made my first year only the button down shirt - Butterick 5678 and the tunics from McCalls 7095 are still being worn. I've worn both of the Simplicity 8094 tops a lot since making them and I've actually thought of another version I'd like to make...other than that I've struggled.

Now that I have a clearer idea of what I want to sew and wear, I'm revising some of the top patterns that I shared on Instagram. I have another knock-off from QVC that I want to make using Simplicity 8094 again...well y'all know I like a TNT pattern! *LOL* This one is so comfortable to wear that there will probably be more incarnations.

So tops will be up next...

Joan Rivers Top at QVC

More Simplicity 8059 Cardigans ~

I finally got some sewing done.  I made four versions of Simplicity 8059. I started these around Christmas time. I got it in my head that I needed more of them and then I just started cutting fabric and making plans. I had a fifth one in my head but I need to move on, there are so many more things to sew.

Here's a quick peek of them, I'll have a blog post as soon as my daughter arrives to photograph me in them.

Meeting Claire Kennedy ~

I've wanted to meet Claire Kennedy, who blogs at Sew Artistry for some time. Claire has impeccable skills and sews for very high end clients back in Oklahoma. For some reason Claire seems to really like my sewing and features it in her newsletter for which I'm so honored. 

She is in town this weekend (probably flying home as this is posting) and we connected at Metro Textiles for some fabric shopping with her and her companions, Susan Theobald from Oklahoma City and Susan Knowles from Shreveport.

Kashi doing what he does best!

I was lucky because Friday I had time to spend with them since hardly anyone was in the office, so I took a long lunch and headed to Metro Textiles. 

Here are a few photos of their adventures ~

Susan, Claire & Susan checking the stretch on a knit

Claire and Susan checking out the wools

Claire checking out one of the pleated polyesters

Let me say these women came to shop! I loved how they went through and pulled fabrics in their colors, for their needs, and bought at least 5 yards. I got a vicarious thrill just hanging with them! Of course some of that fabric shopping rubbed off on me and I did need some retail therapy to soothe my aching soul since it was inauguration day...*sigh* 

Here is what came home with me ~

3 yards of an embroidered denim

3 yards of a border print ponte

While they were shopping, I had time to speak with both Susans and Claire. Susan from Shreveport showed me some pictures she'd taken of an Alabama Chanin skirt she'd recently completed. It was sooooo beautiful. She graciously shared some pics with me...

Detailed view of the hand stitching and beading

Susan wearing the skirt with a black turtleneck

Back view of Susan wearing the Alabama Chanin skirt she made

It's a gorgeous skirt isn't it? I'm always in awe of sewists that take the time to make garments using the Alabama Chanin stencils and hand stitching!

Saturday's Womens March ~
Lastly The Women's March was yesterday. I had planned to go to the march in NJ with my daughter. However, I'm still coughing up a lung and I didn't think another weekend out in the elements would help me get better any sooner so I stayed home and cheered from the sidelines.

I posted this to my Instagram account early Saturday morning ~

I'm so thankful to all of the amazing women who came out and marched both in the US and around the world! It made a statement that we are not going quietly into the good night! May I add that we have to follow this up with activism both politically and contributing to the institutions that this administration is threatening the existence of ~ even the National Endowment of Arts is being targeted!

Finally, I did get to spend some quality time in the sewing room this weekend. It has leveled off my equilibrium and while I still have a cough, I now feel more like myself!

This is what's currently laying on my cutting table ~

...as always more later!

Simplicity 8094 - A Fall Tunic

I've loved this pattern since it was issued. However, I'm such a dress girl when the weather gets warm that I knew I would never make it as a summer topper. But in a nice ponte or sweater knit for fall, yes, I can do that!

So even though the temps are up and down here lately, I decided to make my first version to wear now. I really want this in a merino wool for later in the winter cause I can always add a sleeveless turtleneck under it for warmth and wear it over my skinny jeans.

Fabric choice for version one ~
It's made from a rayon/lycra knit that I won from Elliott Berman last Thanksgiving with black ponte sleeves from Metro Textiles. When I first pulled the fabric out of the pile, I was worried that I didn't have enough to make the body of the tunic but it worked out.

Supplies ~
Stay tape
Fusible stay tape

Pattern Alterations for Version One ~
I know that this appears loose fitting on the pattern envelope, but the pattern only goes up to a size 20. So I was a little leary about how it would fit me. I added 1/2 inch to each side seam from the underarm down to the hem. I wanted to make sure that it skimmed my bodacious body. 

The biggest change was to the sleeve since the pattern only has short sleeves. I used the long sleeve pattern from my TNT dress pattern and made a pattern sandwich. TNT pattern, Simplicity pattern sliced and spread and tracing pattern on the top then I altered the pattern to insure it fit my biceps.

Those were the only changes made to the pattern pieces for version one.

Construction Info. ~
Honestly, I just glanced at the pattern instructions especially after they suggested that you sew the knit sleeves in the round. I NEVAH sew knit sleeves in the round. I always sew them in flat and that's what I did with this top.

Also, the pattern suggests that you use bias tape to finish the neckline. I mean I understand why they suggest it but my knit is a little thin and I thought this would make the neckline bulky. So I applied some fusible bias stay tape to the neckline, pressed it flat and stitched it down using a twin needle.

The other change that I made to the tunic besides lengthening the sleeve was to add a piece of the body fabric to the sleeve hem to tie the look together. I just eyeballed this but I did make sure that I added a 5/8" seam allowance to the top of the insert. 

Here's a pic of the sleeve with fabric choices ~

I also sewed the side slits lower than the pattern suggests. I didn't want the sides of my abdomen showing and scaring people so I sewed my openings to mid-hip.

A few pictures of the first tunic in action ~

I made that first version as a Sunday Sew. I wore it to work on Monday because the temps were back into the 70s-80s and it was really warm. Though after wearing it with black leggings, I kept thinking that I wanted to make it again without the side splits. I hated that the sides fell open and exposed the sides of my legs. Also the fabric is an ITY ~ thin and clingy ~ not my friend. So while I love the fabric's pattern, I was uncomfortable in how the tunic fit.

Fast forward to picture taking day and it was only in the 40s outside, so I wore a cotton tank top under it which then solved all the clinging issues. I even wore my black skinny jeans and while my side view leaves much to be desired (hahahahaha!) I liked the top much better.

Version Two ~ 

However based on wearing version one, I made a second one closing up the side seams adding godets to them. 

I made the godet pattern piece by pinning the front and back pieces together from the underarm seam down to the notch where the side seams were left open. Then I traced the opening and added 5/8" seam allowances.

To add a little more width to the front and back pattern pieces, I did a pivot and slide on the fabric adding an inch at the waistline to both pieces and two inches to the hemline. 

I also two toned the sleeves of this version using the fashion fabric that I bought from JoMars during my trip in June. The black ponte is from Metro Textiles.  The godets were made in the black ponte to tie everything together. 

Another change was the neckline. When I tried the top on to make sure that everything fit the way I wanted, I realized that I liked the neckline just as it was. So I rambled around in the notions collection and found some black foldover elastic and added it to the neckline so that it wouldn't change.

The last change was the length. This version is considerably shorter than the first one. I just didn't like this fabric in the longer length so I cut 6" off the hemline and hemmed it using a 1" hem.

A few pictures of Version Two ~

Conclusion ~
This is a simple to sew tunic. There are no big surprises and would be easy for anyone from beginner to advanced sewist to construct. What makes mine different are the design details I've added.  Long sleeves vs. short sleeves, color blocking the sleeves and adding solid color godets to the second version. I think these details give it that Chicos Chic look that I've been trying to sew lately.

I like both of these versions ~ the second just a little more than the first ~ however, I'm putting the pattern away and moving on to other patterns. Maybe I will get back to it when the weather gets colder making a merino wool version...maybe. 

The next top up is a heavier weight summer linen that I'm wearing into fall...

...as always more later!

A New Dress and an Event!

A couple of weeks ago Kashi asked me to invite a few friends over for an evening shopping event at Metro Textiles. We decided to add a little wine and cheese and since I didn't want anyone to be slighted, my friends (@oonaballoona @gingermakes @sownbrooklyn) and I shared the event on Instagram...opening it up to anyone who wanted to stop by and shop. 

However, the day before I stopped by Metro Textiles to finalize a few details with Kashi, and he came up with an idea. He asked me if he gave me a piece of fabric could I make something to wear to the event the next evening. Can anyone say "Challenge!" I left work a half hour early and made it home by 6:10pm which left me about 6 hours to make a dress.

Now of course I wasn't going to start from scratch using a new pattern because I would definitely be rushing the process and might end up with a wadder. Instead I went with my summer fave ~ McCalls 6559!  The day of the event was supposed to be hot and humid in NYC (summer is hanging in rough in NYC this year) so McCalls 6559 was up to the challenge!

The Dress Materials...

2 yards of a cotton knit houndstooth
5 yards of a polka dot foldover elastic purchased from Pacific Trimmings
A little seam tape
Fusible stay tape

This is what I ended up with...

A little construction information ~
The good thing about choosing this pattern is that it's already been fitted to my body and made numerous times this summer. The second thing was that I could figure out my cutting and construction process on the train ride home which made it easier to sew. Lastly since it was a knit there are no seam finishes inside the dress.

The construction details are in photos below...

I used my knee length version then added 6" to the bottom

by using pins to designate the extra inches

Design Plus Straight Fusible Stay Tape 

was added to the neckline & armholes

Then the polka dot foldover elastic 

was added to the neckline and armholes

using a zigzag stitch

The question I was asked most about the dress was how did I get the fringe so even... 
I used a June Tailor Shape Cut purchased a hundred years ago and stored with the other quilting supplies in the cave. Yes, I own quilting supplies because about 20 years ago, I was really into art-to-wear sewing. It's easier to cut shapes with squares, triangles, etc.

So I pulled out the Shape Cut placed it on the fabric and cut 1/2" strips using my rotary cutter. Here's a link on how to use the Shape Cut. Mine were cut 7" from the hemline so the entire bottom of the dress would be fringed.

The June Tailor Shape Cut, seam tape, fusible stay tape and cutting mat

Shape Cut placed on top of the dress to cut the fringe

To be perfectly honest all of the strips aren't the same size but it works. I'm not sure if making the fringe prior to constructing the dress would have made the strips equal sized. However, I was working in a short time frame so I went with what was fastest!

#wineandcheesewithkashi ~
About 25 women showed up to shop and I think a great time was had by all.  A few pictures are below... 

...if you're on Instagram, use the hashtag wineandcheesewithkashi to see other pics from the evening!

Kashi has asked us to sponsor a few more of these so we will.  When dates are decided, look to social media where it will be announced first. Thanks to everyone who came out and shopped. It was a great event!

Also my McCalls 6559 did not let me down!

...as always more later!

Random Thoughts when I should be sewing...

I've been blogging for ten years and boy has it changed in that time. I have to admit that I miss the conversations that we sewing bloggers use to have...the ideas exchanged...the knowledge exchanged and that we shared so much more than just sewing.

Where is the nostalgia coming from? I had to rumble through blog postings to find something I posted three years ago. Not only has blogging changed but my own blog is different in tone and looks. I guess it's growth but it made me kind of sad to see some of the changes that have occurred in the sewing blogging community.

* * * * *

I've been sewing like crazy. Vacay starts nexts Saturday so I need to have things made and packed by Thursday evening. I'm so in love with McCalls 6559 I don't know what to do.  I've made 2 more, have 2 more cut out and have fabric for another 2. 

The only thing different about these dresses are the prints I've used and the color of the cardigan worn over them.  But talk about comfortable! OMG! And they are so easy to wear and pack. 

I may get to share some of the new ones with you before I leave on vacay and I may not. Gotta concentrate on making that pack date. If not I will try to get some pictures of them in "exotic vacation locations!" *LOL*

Here though is a picture of the haul I picked up from Metro Textiles this afternoon...

Yeah I've got maxidresses on the brain!

* * * * * 

Finally the air conditioning is blasting and it's hot outside so why can I only think of fall sewing!  All of those awesome pleather pieces I've been collecting are calling my name. I also really want to try my hand at making a couple of shirts using some of those shirt patterns and shirting fabric I've collected.

Now that the clothing shackles have been removed and I'm getting used to being free...I'm getting a better idea of what image I want to project to the world.  

I think I'm gonna have some fun now!

* * * * * 

This last thought is funny to put in a post where I show some fabric I just bought but since it was purchased with a gift certificate and will be sewn right away...

All of the sewing I've been doing lately has come from fabric from the collection. Most of the things I'm thinking of sewing for fall is from fabric from the collection. I'm so grateful for the collection, I don't know what to do! I know this is hard for non-stashers to understand but knowing the fabric is there waiting for me to create with it offers a sense of security that has been missing this year.

I probably won't start sewing fall when I return from vacation. There are a few other things that I want to make, that have nothing to do with maxi skirts or maxi dresses. But I'm sure that by the end of August, I will be sewing fall even if I can't wear it until later!  At least I will be ready...especially since I will need to do another closet cull at that time!

...as always more later! 

Metro Textiles ~ Have you been lately?

I'll be honest.  I've been meaning to head to Metro Textiles for weeks.  I also meant to go on a day that wasn't sooooo cold outside but work, that cruel mistress that she is had me tied to my desk. So cold weather be dayumed, I bundled up and headed off to Metro to soothe my creative soul.

I haven't been to Metro in a minute so it was good to see Kashi again. There are loads of new goodies there as you can see below...

Some of the wonderful rolls of fabric waiting for you...

This burn out silk is $15 per yard

...and here are all the colors it comes in!

This silk panel is amazing and it's $20 per panel

Each panel is 1.25 yards long.

Loved this red cut out faux leather for $15 per yard

Kashi cutting my fabric...

I did purchase two pieces...a black textured ponte and a black silk floral embroidered lace.

Sorry that the black is washed out but I wanted

you to see the detail of the floral silk lace 

If you haven't been to Metro in awhile, head on over, Kashi's got a lot of great pieces of fabric in stock.  He's located at:

Metro Textiles

265 West 37th Street

Suite 908

New York, NY 10018

Monday through Friday 8am - 6pm

(closed on weekends)

He does take phone orders at 212.209.0004 but would much rather see you in person so he can share the best goodies with you.

I have to admit that the trip did make me feel better! Though I'm trying to figure out how I only ended up with black fabric!!! *LOL*  But a nice smile, some wonderful fabric and the fact that I showed restraint and only came home with two pieces turned my day around!

...as always more later!