A Woodland Border Print Simplicity 8687 - Part 1

First, I'd like to say thank you for all of you who still follow my sewing adventures and leave a comment.  I so appreciate you! Just one quick thing ~ I know blogger has made logging in more challenging so if you use "Anonymous" would you mind leaving your name at the end of your comment.  Thanks again!

Now to the actual blog post...

I use to write progress posts all the time for my makes.  Somewhere in the last couple of years I stopped. I'm changing it up again and going back to writing progress posts.  I appreciate being able to scroll through those old posts and see what I did and why.  Since I'm not sewing as much these days, I feel like I need to share why I make decisions as I'm making them in the moment.  My sewing decisions are primarily based upon my experience. The experiences that affect how I'm sewing going forward.

I purchased a bunch of Julia Cost's fabrics a couple of weeks ago after not buying fabric for almost six months.  That's a LONG time in my world!  However, purchasing it really jumpstarted my mojo which has been vacationing.  I want to use all three of the fabric pieces I purchased taking my time to make them sing.  I also know I want to use TNT patterns for these garments.  I want to manipulate the fabric not fiddle around with fit.

Also, I feel like I haven't been walking in my essence for the last year.  I create that's who I am. Ideas come to me, fabric is purchased or chosen from the collection, a pattern picked and I make garments come to life. Various factors have squelched my creativity but I'm reclaiming it with both hands and leaning into it. Because this IS who I really am.

Pattern:

I'm using Simplicity 8687 again. This will be my fourth version although it wasn't a very popular pattern in the sewing community.  PatternReview only has 7 reviews of it.  The hashtag on Instagram has 13 photos under the hashtag...and several of them are of my toppers. I think I saw something in the line drawings that no one else did.  I've also used very distinctive fabrics to make the jacket pattern sing which definitely changes the finished garment's appearance.

Fabric:

I purchased 4 yards of 55" wide lightweight cotton corduroy border print for this project. While I only needed 3 yards to make this topper, I like an extra yard of fabric to match the border print across the seams. I believe this is necessary for a good border print match.  Trying to be stingy with layout on fabric hurts the look you're trying to achieve.

Notions:

In my sunflower version I bound the hem facing and the hem with bias binding. I'd really like to do the same for this version. I also want to add green buttons for the jacket front.

Construction:

When I tried on the sunflower version, I can close it but my extra weight gain the last few years makes it a snug fit.  Not an obnoxiously too tight fit but I wanted the slightly looser fit of the originally sewn jacket. To achieve this I decided to cut the lower back pattern piece out with a 2.5" pleat.  This gives me the added space I need by adding a cool design feature.

The back and collar pieces are the only pattern pieces I cut on the fold.  Here are a few photos of the cutting out process. 

Cutting out the jacket fronts using a single layer of fabric

Jacket front pieces laying side by side

A few other things to note:

- Corduroy has a nap.  While I cut the pieces on the wide width I made sure the tops of the pattern pieces all faced one direction.  This was so the nap ran the same way on all of the pieces.

- Always, always, always purchase at least an extra yard or extra panel when working with border prints and panels.  It allows you room to experiment, match borders across all the sides and even recut if there is an error.

I'm well into constructing and making some design and trim options for the jacket.  That will be in the next post.

...as always more later!

A Denim Simplicity 8687

After finishing the Mildred Jumpsuit, I decided to sew something I'd previously made.  I have a drawer in my cutting table holding the projects I cut prior to the move. When I was going through the drawer I found this project and it coordinates so well with my jumpsuit that it had to be sewn next.

The reason I hadn't worked on it previously was, "Where was I going to wear it to?" Which has become the question regarding almost everything I think about sewing now. And in actuality has held me back from making some things, because WHY? I decided to finish this anyway for two reasons:

1. I needed to sew something I'd made before that would encourage me to continue to sew, and

2. Why the hell not? I mean the pandemic is still here almost a year later from when we originally locked down. It's going to take a minute to vaccinate everyone for us to get to our new normal...so I'm going with it and sewing things.

Supplies ~

A patchwork denim fabric from Stylemaker Fabrics purchased in 2019. It's still available here.

Yds of Blue & White Bias Binding from Bessie Pearl Textiles

Remnants from this dress that I cut into a vest also remnants from jeans that I cut up to use for facings and pockets in other garments.

6 - 7/8" gold buttons from the deep stash button collection - I've had these for years!

Pattern Alterations & Construction Info. ~

I cut this out awhile ago but I believe there were no additional pattern alterations that weren't covered in the other two posts about this jacket. I did make one change to the jacket from the other versions.

o  Instead of making the tucks in the sleeves, I gathered the sleeves into the ties.

o  At the same time, I also topstitched a tuck into the cut opening in the sleeve hem to make it fit a little tighter.

o  I used bias binding on all the interior seams since I really liked how the finishing looked in the first version. 

o  However, I bought a 1" double folded quilt binding and that's just too much binding on the seams. 

o  So I cut the binding at the main fold basically cutting it in half and giving me a lot more binding for my money.

o  Since I used denim from previous makes, I made sure the lighter blue denim was cut for the collar and cuffs.  

o  The darker black denim scrap was used for the front facings.

Besides being extra careful sewing the seams because the denim's patchwork seams are bulky and making sure to grade the seams, I used three different thread colors on the jacket.

Yes, I have thread coordination issues...but choosing to topstitch in the gold jeans thread tied everything together and gave it a true denim jacket feel to me.

The Buttonholes ~

Finally adding the buttonholes and buttons were a little challenging because of all the patchwork seams. I tried hard to insure that I was making the buttonholes in between the patchwork seams but I wasn't always successful.  

To make it easier for the automatic buttonholer I trimmed down all of the seams that were near the buttonholes. And STILL in some places the sewing machine struggled. I managed to get the six buttonholes made with patience and slow sewing...also accepting when they weren't perfectly lined up.

There is a little more and less space between the buttonholes because my sewing machine DID NOT care about being accurate when making the buttonholes. One is downright crooked but I'm leaning into the fact that my machine made all of the buttonholes and I didn't have to unpick any of them.

A Few Pictures ~

This will be the last time I use this pattern for awhile. I'm just not wearing jackets cause I'm not going outside. And at the rate America is vaccinating folks, Imma be working from home quite a bit longer.

I pulled some fabrics to make some winter Myosotis dresses so that's what's coming to the blog soon.

...as always more later!

  

Simplicity 8687 in a Panel Print

How about some sewing? I'm finally adjusting to being home, realizing I'm probably going to be here for at least two months because the rates of infection are rising in the NY/NJ area. So I finally finished the topper and I like it as much as I do the first one. I even wore the original to work before the Coronavirus shut everything down. The ease of wear and great details pretty much insured that I would make it again.

I bought these panels from Fabric Mart right before Spring 2019 Sew Camp and picked them up when we visited the store.

These panels looked different online. I thought the panels were half circles (as pictured above) so was surprised when I laid it out and they were full on starbursts. Which is why it took a little longer to figure out how to use this panel print.

What distinguishes this topper is the panel print layout. I laid the pattern pieces out several times before I got the starburst to lay in the most appealing places. I wanted to avoid a full starburst directly on my backside or an unflattering spot on the front of me.

Supply List ~
2 Panels of the 4 I bought from Fabric Mart
5 - 1" white buttons from Pacific Trimmings
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

There are no new construction techniques in this one.  Actually I put the first one together better than this one. I was a little too lax and had to fix some mistakes.

Here are some special details ~

The stripe on the collar was cut from the border on the selvedge edge of the fabric

After I put the label in I covered that seam with some of the blue border stripe so the seam would be finished.

I also added some topstitching to the collar to help it lay flat. Those are the only design changes incorporated in this make.

Finally a few pictures ~

The main difference between this one and the first one is that I pressed the collar flat and open so it has a notched collar appearance. There are also fewer buttons on the front of this one. Finally the adjustment I made to the pattern shoulder is working. I'm not really a drop shouldered kinda woman.
 
I'm blessed that during this time of quarantine I can take pictures on the front porch. I will probably move to the front walk as the trees bloom more. 

This is the second garment from the cut pile. I have a few more pieces to sew from the cut pile before I start sewing the garments in my "Love Chicos" wardrobe. I've also added fabric for two Myosotis to be cut too. I'm finding that I really like wearing my Myosotis dresses at home and don't feel overdressed at all.

One more note ~
There have been several requests made in the comments section of blog posts for me to address making masks for hospitals. However, there is so much information available on the internet and social media that if you're interested in this you should either google, check Facebook or Instagram.  A simple search will give you all the information you need. I really don't have anything else to add to this conversation.

I hope you're all safe, washing your hands and if you have a stay at home order in effect...staying home!

...as always more later!

Sunflowers & Stripes in Simplicity 8687

I was really attracted to this pattern when it was released in Fall 2018.  I purchased it shortly thereafter and it's sat in my pattern collection waiting it's turn to be used. I always saw it as a longer blouse, tunic or topper. Of course I searched the internet to find other versions but it hasn't been a very popular sew...only five reviews on PatternReview and because of that it's now on clearance on Simplicity's site.

Supplies ~
I bought two of these panels from Marcy Tilton's booth at Sew Expo in March 2016. I'm finally using this collection fabric - you know my new fabric usage designations. 

As an aside, I bought a lot of fabric that trip and this is the fifth piece I've used of the dozen pieces I purchased. Slowly but surely working through that fabric...*LOL*

7 - 1" yellow buttons from Pacific Trimmings
Black 'n White piping from the trim stash
Floral bias binding made from a quilting cotton purchased from Zooks, Lancaster, PA
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

Pattern Alterations ~
Since I'm making View C, I started with a size 28 because I wanted an unfitted topper that a turtleneck or sweater could go under easily. Even starting with a 28, I needed to add ease to the hip area. I added an inch to each side seam from the bust area down starting with a quarter inch to a full inch at the hemline. 

Sleeves ~
o  The sleeves were already oversized so I didn't need to make an alteration to the body of them. 
o  Although I did make a shoulder alteration to make the sleeves more set in than the slightly dropped shoulder the pattern suggests. 
o  I did a slash and overlap of 7/8" at the shoulder on the front and back pieces to remove the excess. 
o  I should have removed some of the excess from the sleeve cap but didn't realize this until I started to construct the topper. Will remove it for the next version.

Finally, I did shorten it from dress length to tunic length by removing 10" from the hemline. Here is the first fitting done at the sew-in.

Construction ~
The cutting was creative on this one. I really wanted to have the sunflowers run down the fronts of the topper. Once I got the front and back cut out, I then cut the sleeves. However, before I cut them out, I did a sketch in my Cashmerette Sketchbook to see if I'd like the way the stripes worked.

All of the other pieces were cut out of the remaining fabric remnants, however, there wasn't enough for the side seam pockets. I honestly didn't care about including them. I can always put pockets in the next version. That was the only thing I omitted.   

As I mentioned above, since I neglected to alter the sleeve pattern there was way more gathering than I would have liked in the sleeve cap. I made it work. It's not perfect but it's wearable.

The last construction challenge was the buttons. I found some buttons at Pacific Trimmings that I thought would be perfect for the topper ~ right color, right size but I was wrong. When I laid them on the topper even using all 10 of them, they were just too small.  So back to Pacific Trimmings where I purchased three different larger sized yellow buttons, finally settling on these. They're lighter in hue but coordinate nicely with the sunflowers.

One more thing ~
I left my back facing piece at home. Left it on the ironing board and I just didn't want to wait until the next day to work on the topper. So I bought some black quilting cotton from the Urban Sewciety's store and used that instead. If I was going to wash the topper I would be concerned but since I will probably have to dry clean it, I will wait to see how that decision turns out.

A Few Pictures ~
When I took these pictures it was a warm Sunday in February. In the Northeast this has been a pretty mild winter.  No heavy snows, no days of chilly/freezing temps and bitterly cold winds so I am seriously starting to think about spring. So I styled this topper how I would wear it now and how I will wear it in a few months...

Winterized...

For Spring...

Conclusion ~
I will make this again both as a topper and a longer blouse/tunic.  In this version the sleeves turned out to be 3/4 length due to my alterations, so I will need to fix my pattern for future makes. I also had a few ideas of alternative hem closures. Maybe a buckle, large snap or button instead of the ties to give the sleeve hem a cleaner finish. I'm already working on my next version so it should show up sooner or later.

...as always more later!