What a difference a week makes! Seriously, I picked the vest up this afternoon and all of sudden the wider neckline didn't bother me at all. Actually, the neckline looks rather kewl and trendy. So I decided it must be finished so that I can wear it to work this week.
Some stats:
Pattern:
Fabric:
2 yds of a patterned knit from Fabric Mart
Notions:
black knit bias binding purchased from Fabric Mart several yrs ago
stay tape
Pro Weft Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
6 - 7/8" black/white/grey 4 hole buttons from the collection
Inspiration:
JJill Sweater Vest
Pattern Alterations:
The first change was to cut the center front band off the pattern and add a 5/8" seam allowance to it. I also added the 5/8" seam allowance to the front pattern piece. I did this to replicate the band that is on the inspiration garment, whereas the pattern has a fold over center front that is emphasized by sewing a line of stitching down one side.
The second change I made that really altered the look of the piece was that I added 3" to the neckband so that it would match the altered front pieces. I also did a pivot and slide to the back piece adding an extra two inches at the hipline, because I started with a size 20 pattern and I needed a couple more inches so that the vest would hang comfortably around my body.
Construction:
This is a very easy vest to construct. There are three main pieces ~ back, front, and neckband. I considered making a center back seam but decided that it would interfere with the pattern on the knit and I wanted to keep the pattern intact.
Interfacing was added to both center bands and the neckband to help stabilize the fronts. But I think the most important thing in the construction process was the extensive use of stay tape. I used it to stabilize the shoulder seams, the neckline before I attached the neckband...
...and on the armholes when I applied the knit binding.
The stay tape was applied to prevent the knit from stretching out of shape in all of those areas.
The knit binding was sewn to the armholes and the hemline to finish off both areas. Machine stitched and then hand hemmed to give the inside of the vest a very clean finish.
So even though last week, I was unsure about the neckline...
...tonight I'm loving it with my silk & cashmere black turtleneck. The fabric has some heft to it making this a great piece to wear during these chilly fall days.
Next up the dress and finally, finally, the Simplicity jacket...more later!
I sewed a relatively small amount this weekend...as evidenced by the fact that this simple vest is not done. Here is where it stands:
I called the vest simple because there are only three pieces needed to complete this look...but being plus sized...vests and jackets that aren't in my size always present fitting challenges. And this was no different...I know that very few women can sew a garment straight from the pattern envelope and I guess I'm just angry with myself that I solved one fitting challenge and created another.
What is my challenge? This:
I was going for a look that is closer to the neckline. However, when I added inches to the front of the vest by adding a band, I widened the neckline of the finished garment. Now at the time, I didn't think about this. I dutifully added the same inches to the neckband and was actually proud of myself that I remembered to increase the width of the neckband. But the three inches that I increased the neckband is exactly what took it from closer fitting to cowl neck.
Now don't get me wrong, this is a cute look. Different from what I was going for and it probably will be a great piece in my work wardrobe. It's just not what I planned on making. I'm thrilled that it fits around my body and is a great length. I'm just going to have to work out another way to add width to the body of the vest without affecting the neckline.
I also found some great buttons in the collection to go on this.
It has a little bit of black/white and gray in it. It adds something to the front of the vest but not too much. So all that's left to complete this is to finish the armholes, I'm going to use a black knit binding to do that...make the buttonholes, sew on the buttons and hem it. Probably about an hour or two worth of work...but I just got discouraged when I came up with another "Carolyn Original" instead of a knock-off of the JJill vest.
My daughter thinks it's really cute so I will finish it and take pics of me in it so you can judge for yourself. I think I will even wear it on a Friday with a black turtleneck and black pants. But it's not exactly what I was going for...so I'm back to the drawing board.
...as always, more later!
I'm starting with Vogue 8676 for my version of the JJill vest. Now if you look at the pictures on the Vogue site you would wonder why that was my starting point.
But after diligently searching through my pattern collection and then checking all of the pattern sites online, the bones of this one persuaded me that it would be perfect for my starting point. See what I mean...here is the pattern drawing which I believe always tells the true story of a pattern...
Now imagine it without the sleeves... see how the collar is high enough and there are bands in the front that echo the bands on the front of the JJill vest. These are good bones to start with...and this is the fabric:
A salt and pepper ltwt knit purchased in the last fabric gorge from Fabric Mart especially for this vest. I think I'm going to put some black buttons on this first version. I've spent a few bus rides going over the construction in my head...now I have to read the pattern instructions to see if they jive with my vision! *LOL*
So now you know what I'll be doing today...hopefully I will have more to share later...
It's Friday and as usual my mind turns to what I want to work on this weekend...
I really want to work on my version of the JJill sweater vest.
I've purchased a pattern and a tweedy black/white & grey knit for my trial version. For my final version, I have a chunkier brown knit from the collection, that I want to use alongwith some funky buttons. This will be my main project for the weekend.
Simplicity 2958 - Jacket Update...well I've put the collar onto the jacket and I'm just not sure about it. I'm actually thinking of ripping it off and putting it on again. I know I did something squirrelly and it needs to be redone...so I will rip it apart this weekend too! I also need to find an interesting closure...of course the first one I found needs to be mail-ordered...I'm thinking I may need to journey into the garment district...so much angst for such a simple little jacket!
Have you noticed that this month my projects seem to be more tops? I think I'm easing myself into the heavy duty sewing by finishing off some quicker projects before starting the more complicated ones that are sure to start next month, as the temperatures continue to fall.
Did you see the new Holiday listings from McCalls Patterns? The only reason I ask is that this is one of the featured patterns:
Now this is a definite knock-off of a Michael Kors dress from his Spring 2010 collection that was featured in his spring/summer ads.
This dress has been in the back of my mind as one to duplicate and now I definitely will...even if the pattern does only go up to a size 20. Some of that double knit fabric I've been collecting and a couple of RiRi Zippers will make this one interesting dress to wear to the office.
BTW, there was nuthin' else that I liked from this collection...and I mean nuthin'!!!
Continuing on in the holiday theme...my sister is throwing herself a 40th Birthday Gala next month with evening wear required...so I'm working on an idea for my dress for the party. I know I should be thinking color but I want something elegant, sleek and black. I have this picture hanging on my bulletin board of a simple dress from Dillards that I'm thinking of making floor length...but more on that later!
Just a few things I'm thinking about this friday afternoon...so how about you? Do you have plans to sew this weekend? If so, what? If not, why not?
...more later!
