Interview Blues

So this is the interview suit that I never wore...

I made my first suit from a glen plaid fabric using Vogue 8209. That jacket/suit worked really well and I got the job. But before I knew that, I started another interview outfit. I added a dress instead of a skirt to this suit combo because it's more comfortable to wear.

Some stats ~
Patterns:
Reworked TNT dress pattern
Vogue 8209 Jacket

Fabric:
Textured Rayon Suiting purchased from Vogue Fashion Fabrics

Notions:
Navy Blue Bemberg Rayon Lining purchased from Low Price Fabrics
Black silk organza from the collection
Navy Blue Rayon Seam Tape
Black fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
7 - 1" enameled plastic buttons purchased from Fabric Mart
1" shoulder pads from the collection
22" navy invisible zipper
bias binding

There are no new sewing techniques in this outfit. It's basic construction with a lot of steps...a lot of steps!  The first post on how this jacket was constructed is here.  However, sewing an outfit without pressure means that I sew better.  The sleeves are inserted well. No puckers in the sleeve caps especially after I reduced the excess space on the pattern pieces. I also added space to the front so the jacket can close better. 

The dress is a basic sleeveless version of my TNT pattern. I wanted it "plain" so that it would work with anything...the jacket, a cardigan or alone...with or without jewelry. A good workhorse piece that can even be worn at my new job.

In my original post, I included a cotton houndstooth fabric that I was going to make a skirt to coordinate with the jacket. After realizing that I've recently made a navy/white gingham skirt that will go with the jacket, I decided not to sew it any time soon. 

A few more pictures ~

I start my new job on Monday. I'm pretty excited about this new adventure especially since I will be in a different industry, working less hours with a different dress code. So my sewing is definitely going to change now...which is great since most of my "professional" wardrobe no longer fits. 

However, if I ever need an interview outfit again, I'm all set!

...as always more later!

Vogue 8209 in Glen Plaid

Here are the pics of the suit in action. Again, I see things to improve upon for next time. I've already cut out the fabric for another jacket/dress combo in navy blue...

I really don't like me in a suit or a jacket with a collar. However, some situations just call for one and there is no way around it. In this instance, I used a collarless jacket with a matching straight skirt. For these pictures, I wanted to share movement shots rather than "glamour or posed" shots of the suit so these are atypical on purpose. 

Some Stats ~
Fabrics:
4 yards of a wool/poly glen plaid from Fabric Mart
2 yards of white bemberg rayon lining from Low Price Fabrics

Notions:
yards and yards of white rayon seam tape
(that was folded & pressed before being sewn to the seams)
1/2" shoulder pads
1 - 1" button from the button collection
1 yard 1" non-roll elastic
Steam-A-Seam 2 - 1/4" wide

The Jacket ~

Taking the jacket off so you can see the innards

The Skirt ~
The skirt is simple. An elastic waist unlined straight skirt. The hem has Steam-A-Seam 2 in the hemline. It's the fabric wrapped around my body with the selvedges serged off and sewn closed. Then I added a 1.5" casing and stitched the top and bottom of the casing to enclose the elastic. I've included a front and back shot of me in the skirt.

I hope I didn't overwhelm you with pics, just wanted to show all the details of the suit. If you have any questions regarding the construction of the suit, please see the last blog post. Like I said above, I've already begun working on the next version.

...as always more later!

It's Finally Finished...

It's been a long journey with many stops and starts, and a few changes of direction but the pantsuit is finally finished. I had to get this one out of the way. It was hanging in my direct view every day taunting me with its incompleteness and my inability to find a way to make the sleeves work...so in the end...I turned the idea on it's head and went in a different direction. A way that is unexpected yet totally satisfying.

First let me warn you that I have no shots of the finished outfit on me...those will come later, I promise! I just have a busy day today and wanted to get this post up...so look for those candid shots at a future date. As an aside...three years later I'm still chanting that I really need to get my dress form some new feet. I need to make that a priority this year!!! *LOL*

So the original project was to make a pantsuit using this pattern:

Vogue 7944

A TNT pattern that I've made several times before along with my TNT pants pattern.

Of course the easiest part of this pantsuit was the pants...which have been completed for several months...just hanging around and waiting for this problem child jacket to have its issues worked out! I finally broke down and wore just the pants with the twinset as pictured here:

So the problem with the jacket was the sleeves. No matter what I tried, they just did not insert into this jacket well. Which stymied me because I've made the jacket three times before and never had a problem inserting the sleeves...so I let it sit. Periodically, I would pick it up and rip the sleeves out and try something else...still no good. Here is how they fit the last time I inserted them:

This was bad, really bad and I had resigned myself to the fact that this jacket was just not going to happen...which hurt me greatly because I loved the lining that I had installed...especially the back facing piece:

Last week when I was cleaning out magazines (way too many of them come to my house) and sending them out to the recycle bin, I spied an article in Lucky called "Sleeveless Jackets" and I had an Oprah "Aha Moment!" I decided to just get rid of those pesky sleeves. Once I made that decision it was like being released from prison. I knew exactly what steps to take to get this baby finished and onto my back.

So even though I had planned to work on "The Dreaming of Spring Dress" this weekend, instead I cleaned up this niggling project. Okay, how about a peek at the finished pantsuit:

Opened

Button closed

The stash I will never, ever complain about is my notion/trim stash...because quietly residing in that stash was a roll of bias cut linen in a complimentary shade of olive green. With that roll, my bias tape maker, a little steam and time, I had bias binding that coordinated with the vest which I used to finish the armholes.

I also added the lime green piping to the armholes to tie the trim all together.

The buttons blended so perfectly with the fabric.

Now I am completed thrilled with this outfit. I will wear it to work this week and it will reside safely in my closet no longer taunting me with its incompleteness. If I could just do something about that red doubleknit jacket and dress....*sigh*

Finally a few stats:

Pattern:

Jacket ~ Vogue 7944

Pants ~ TNT pattern - used wider leg version

Fabric:

5 yards of a striped worsted wool crepe from Fabric Mart

5 yards of bronzed brown lining from Paron Fabrics

Notions:

4 yards lime green piping purchased from Daytona Trimmings

3 yards olive green linen bias binding

5 olive green soutache shank buttons from Sawyer Brooks Fabrics

This is my first completed piece in April. I have a 4-gore skirt that's cut out and laying on my sewing table that I would like to work on tonight after the guests go home...trying to prolong that three day weekend as long as possible! *LOL*

As always...more later!

Sneak Peeks

I had a very productive weekend...not only did I get the dress completed but I worked on another version of my TNT Burda cardigan and the camisole pattern from Butterick 5146.

I also fiddled around a little more with the pantsuit...and have decided to add piping to the cuffed sleeves:

Thanks everyone for your very kind comments on the dress, which I wore today. It will take some getting used to wearing such a close-fitting dress. My dresses made from woven fabrics give the illusion of being close-fitting but aren't really. This knit dress was laying right next to my skin and I kept pulling on it all day because I was very aware of the fit. However, I am going to make it again...I'm thinking of using either a turquoise double knit or the black double knit that I bought from Metro Textiles to make a pantsuit...both fabrics have a little more body than the poly/lycra knit.

My daughter's babyshower is this weekend, so I don't know how much sewing I will get done...but I will be off on Monday the 16th so there is always hope!

More later!

Dead Tired

I only have about five steps left to do on the jacket and the pantsuit will be completed. It's hanging up and looking pretty good to me. I'm inspired to finish it this weekend...and I had a post about the lining...pattern pieces I made up and the changes I made to make it more my own...but I'm just too tired to download pictures and write it all up...so maybe tomorrow.

I also love the beginning of the month because the fabric clock turns over and I can purchase my 8.33 yards of fabric...though to be truthful I got a little more than that! *LOL* However, several pieces are in the washer right now...going through the prewash process so that they will be ready to go when called upon.

It has been a long week at work...next week will be worse...and right now I'm tired...dead tired...so I'm gonna curl up in bed (cause the apt is empty - yeah!!) and read my new Threads!

Finally ~ a sneak peek because I realize that I haven't shown anything but a detail here and there...don't get excited or disappointed...it will look better than this...the best details are yet to come!

More later...

I'm taking my time

Now isn't that an interesting title! *LOL* But I am...I have been struck by the wonderful garments that are being shown all over blogland...and I know that these garments were not rushed...were not thrown together...but lovingly constructed and given the proper amount of sewing time.

It is the beginning of March and soon the warm breezes of April will be blowing and I will want to make spring and summer dresses. Heck, I want to make them now!!! So these last two outfits (the red suit and the pantsuit) need to be completed...there isn't even that much left...so they should just be completed.

In that mindset, I did not make another pair of black pants. I am taking the four pairs of pants to the cleaners tomorrow and getting them back in a few days. I have plenty of other outfits that I can wear in my closet...I will wear several of them. So I started working on the green/beige striped wool crepe jacket...the pants are finished. They haven't been worn. They are lonely waiting for the jacket to be completed...it's time.

One sleeve is in...one more to go. The hems are pressed up and ready to be sewn down. Buttons have been chosen. I am taking my time...getting the elements sewn in correctly...realizing that I will be grateful when the suit is completed and I can pull it out of the closet and wear it.

I am taking my time!

February end of the month recap

Well it's the last day of the month and time for a recap. It will be short and sweet this month...not because I didn't get alot accomplished but because...well it is! *LOL*

During the month of February, I made four garments...three dresses and one jacket. All for my work wardrobe and all of the pieces worked in my "get dressed with ease in the mornings" frame of mind! I did go over my fabric quota for the month by three yards...but the yellow rib knit was calling my name so loudly at Paron's that I just couldn't leave it! And I already know how I want to use it...just have to find some time!!!

However, my four garments used quite a bit of yardage...14! I need to felt fabric more often!!! And since I have quite a few more yards out than in...I'm fine with this. I need to keep this pattern up...So to summarize - 4 garments made - 13 yards of fabric in and 14 yards of fabric out.

************************************************************

Since it is the weekend and I didn't sew at all last weekend...I have plans for some sewing this weekend. Not big plans and not elaborate plans because during the week...I faced a need. See this:

The bag is full of garments to go to the drycleaners. I have been dragging my feet in taking them and now two of my favorite suits are in here along with all four pairs of my black pants. I don't know how I allowed this to happen! So sewing will be practical this weekend...I'm making another pair of black pants...yes I know...boring, boring, boring...but much needed.

During the week I wore a pair of pants that I made about two years ago and even though they fit and weren't tight when I stood up and moved around...the legs were a little uncomfortable sitting. So this morning, I remembered this article called, "Design with Ease" from the Fall 2008 issue of Sew Stylish:

The article talks about adding ease to pants legs...and it solves the issue that I am having so I am going to put the information to good use this weekend:

I am also going to work on the jacket to "The Making of a Suit" outfit...I looked at it again this morning and realized that I am so close to the finish line that I need to just bite the bullet and get this completed. Especially since it is a pretty suit and the weather is turning chillier again...*sigh* I can tell it is the beginning of March because I am sooooooo ready for spring to arrive!

So basics and practicality will rule my sewing this weekend. I will take the dry cleaning to the cleaners on Monday morning, cause I have several dresses on my "To Sew" list that will be perfect for the transitional weather, that I really want to sew instead of basics...

More later!

The Making of a Suit - Chapter Three

This section is on samples.

I made several samples of trim and interfacing choices. I have several different types of fusible interfacings...bought in large lots or given to me by a friend who just rolled yards and yards of them off a bolt...so even though I am starting to get to the bottom of the stash...I still have enough different types to choose from for this project.

My first decision was, how firm did I want the front interfacing and collar to be? That is all the pattern specifies should be interfaced and since I am sewing a jacket and not tailoring one, I went with "some" of the jacket specifications. I pulled three interfacing choices from the stash, cut squares and fused them to a piece of my fabric. After performing a touch test, I based my decision on which one to use. Here is what my sample looked like:

The next set of samples were piping samples. Jean left a comment about possibly using both colors together and the idea really intrigued me. So much so that I made samples using both pieces of piping in two different versions.

First beige/green:

Next green/beige:

Neither of these really moved me, so I decided to use the kewl and funky combination for the piping and button choices.

The jacket was then cut out and interfaced. I am pretty far along with the jacket construction and from my last post you can tell that the pants are done. However, I did some interesting things with the lining and that will be the next post on my "Making of a Suit" series.

The Making of a Suit - Chapter Two

So today is Saturday - the beginnings of a long 3-day weekend here in the US to celebrate Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.'s Birthday...which I have elongated by adding two vacation days for the Presidential Inaugural Celebrations. I plan on working on this suit during the festivities and maybe finishing up a UFO...depends on how I manage my time!

This series of posts, "The Making of a Suit", is just about the decisions that I make and the process I use in creating these garments. I wouldn't call the posts a primer, just an inside view of my thought process...scary right! *LOL*

Next up for me usually is picking out the notions and embellishments. Yes, I think about the embellishments/trim this early in the process. I use to be an at the end of the finished garment embellishment kinda girl, but found that enclosing ends and adding trim then could be kind of awkward. So now I plan the embellishment out before I cut out my fabric so that I can incorporate trimming ideas into my seam finishes.

Of course, this is one of my favorite parts of the construction process besides actually sewing the garment. I can happily spend an evening choosing buttons and trim from my extensive collection. And yes, I consider buttons trim - well actually to me they are like jewelry down the front of a garment - be it dress, shirt or jacket. A well chosen button can add so much to a garment, so I need to take my time and choose the best one for the job!

After pulling any and all contenders out of the trim drawer and the button bins, I lay them down with the camera and take pictures. Lots of pictures...looking at them not just on the view finder of my digital camera but also large and in charge on the computer. Then I somehow manage to narrow my choices down to a particular color for the piping and buttons. Sometimes this process is easy...the right color just jumps out at me. This time the choice has been a little more challenging, so I've come up with two alternatives:

Corporate - "Kewl and Funky"

or just "Corporate Chic"

I am undecided regarding which pairing will work best and will let the fabric speak to me as I work with it before making a final decision. I have enough piping and buttons for either option...so they will be placed on the side until it's time to use them.

My next step will be to make interfacing samples...so if you are interested...stay tuned! Now though, I'm off to finish watching the train trip of President-Elect Obama as he makes his way into Baltimore!

Three more days and Barack Obama will officially become the 44th President of the United States!!!!

The Making of A Suit - Chapter One

First Chapter - Pretreating the fabric

After choosing my fashion fabric, usually my next step is to pretreat the fabrics. I know some people pretreat their fabrics as soon as they hit the door. And I've tried this method, but handling the fabric just makes me want to use the fabric right away, even if I'm in the midst of a project! Since I really dislike UFO's, I've stopped doing this and now pretreat as my first step in making a garment.

So last night while watching the Red Carpet for The Golden Globes and the actual award show, I pretreated the wool crepe. I've previously written out a detailed account of how I pretreat wool crepe and you can read about it here! Now this is a process but I've never experienced shrinkage when I dry clean my finished garments using this pretreatment method.

Last night I actually enjoyed this process. I got into a rhythm while watching TV and before I knew it, I was done! I also threw the lining fabric into the washer and dryer to pretreat it and then lightly pressed it. I think by breaking this down into steps, none of them are onerous even though I'm usually rushing through these steps because I like the actual sewing and construction of the garment best! I am working towards accomplishing my sewing goals for 2009 - one of which is to slow my sewing d-o-w-n. Now my fabric is ready for cutting and the weekend!

Tonight, though I will thread the serger and my sewing machine and make several extra bobbins. I always like to make at least two bobbins when sewing a large project because I hate running out of bobbin thread halfway through. You're wondering about the thread in my sewing machine, right? Well since I purchase the 1100 yard spools of Gutterman thread from Atlanta Thread & Supply, I rarely run out while sewing a garment!

Tonight I'm borrowing Summerset's parting shot:

I finally got the internet connectivity working, so not only is my blog page featured on the front touch screen but I also got up the Style.com and Chanel apps that Phyllis highlighted on her post "Fashion at your Fingertips" on the Sewing Divas blog! I love my iTouch!!!!

The next chapter will be about picking notions, buttons and interfacings...